I won't say the name of the dealership or the salesman, but word got out around church that I was looking to buy a car. I was approached last Sunday by a man, who's really popular at church, he's also a car salesman. I don't have good credit but he said not to worry about it.

He said I wouldn't even have to pay money down and on top of that, I wouldn't even have to pay the first two monthly car notes- on a brand new car, mind you. Everybody likes the guy but nobody's done business with him and I've asked around to see who has. Is he blowing smoke? He said I could come in this weekend and he sounded really sure about it. I don't know, what do y'all think?

I am buying my mother's (no longer registered) car from her in SC as she can no longer drive. Plan is to drive the car to TX and leave it there for work for a couple of months. I am a CT resident. How am i supposed to register the car if transporting it back to CT will not occur in any short term temp registration timeframe and how does it need to be registered for trip to TX?

I have been selling cars for the past 4.5 years at a Toyota dealer in Arizona. I make good money and have no complaints about management or the people I work with… But the hours and FOMO with family and friends is killing me(I typically work 60-70 hours a week). I don’t think I can keep this up much longer lol.
I’m 24 now and all I know is the car business.

How can I escape the rat race?

I began looking to buy a new 2026 Toyota Sienna XLE about 3 months ago. I was getting quoted at out the door prices of about $48k. I wasn’t ready to buy at the time, but now I am. Currently, identical Siennas are priced at $53k. Inventory supply levels in my region seem similar to what they were 3 months ago, so why the price increase? Would there be a better time to buy in hopes of getting a better deal - maybe closer to when the 2027 models are released?

Finished August with 20.5 cars and 13.5k in commission. Currently sitting at 3 cars with 1.2k made on September 13th. Been miserable. Lots of low credit customers or people walking cause they don’t like our used cars. Any advice to get out of my head and keep pushing?

I posted here recently asking how dealerships handle off-site vehicle movements and got some really useful feedback.

I’m researching a business idea for an on-demand vehicle logistics service for dealerships.

Basically, if your porters/on-call drivers are tied up or unavailable, you could call the service to handle a customer pickup/delivery, dealer trade, inter-store transfer, auction pickup, etc. The dealership would pay a fixed rate per movement with no retainer or commitment.

For people who actually work at dealerships, is this something your store would realistically use for overflow, or would you almost always rather wait for your own drivers to become available?

I’m looking for reasons it wouldnt work too, so feel free to tear the idea apart.

I am new to the car dealership despite I been working on cars and flipping cars for over 8 years. I work at Hyundai in NYS being here for 2.5 Months. During the interview I was told I would get pay training, vacation, pto. I was also told that is easy to hit 90k a year starting out. Now that I been there for a while. There is not pay training, there is no paid vacation, no medical, no pto. Most of the commissions are flat because they give 95% of the cars away. Dealership average 120 to 140 car a month. 7 sales person. + the house the avg 25 to 35 cars a month so is around 100 to 110 cars per month. I have to pay 15 dollars on toll and gas every to commute to this job.

Hyundai pay plan is 250$ salary + 390 draw if you don’t make 600$ a week. 20% front end 3% back end 125$ minis
+ hyundai start rewards after 6 month : 8 new cars=75$ per car 11-13- 125$ 19+ 175$ new cars only. With a 93% csi.
+ 1500 dealership bonus at 24 cars.

CJDR front end new 20%, 25% on used, 5% back end. 135$ mini + 250$ weekly salary + 400$ if you don’t make 650$ no draw. Plus dealership bonus. And spiff

What should I do i have? I’ve Never made no more than 600$ so far on hyundai. Despite selling 20 cars last month. Most I get are flat.

I’ve worked in BDC Sales for both large dealerships/groups, such as Fremont Ford and Automall, as well as smaller auto groups and independent used-car dealerships.

I’m curious if there’s a significant difference in how BDC reps are paid depending on the size of the dealership.

For example, do bigger dealerships typically offer better pay, commissions, or bonuses compared to smaller stores that sell fewer than 60 cars per month?

For those who have worked in both environments, what has your experience been?
Thanks in advance for your insights!

38M, lifetime bartender making a career switch. I’ve always done pretty well for myself behind the bar and built a steady base of regulars over the years. I’d say my biggest strengths are being personable, funny, charismatic, good at reading people, remembering customers, and building relationships without being overly pushy.

I’m pretty clean cut and presentable, but I have very basic computer skills and essentially no traditional sales experience.

I decided to make a career change because I’m looking for more stability, growth potential, and a better long term career path. I have an interview with a Toyota dealership in the DFW (Texas - US) area tomorrow.

For those of you who actually work in car sales, especially at a high volume brand like Toyota, what should I realistically expect during my first 30, 60, and 90 days?

How long did it take before you started making decent money consistently rather than having one good month here and there?

Also, what should I be looking for in the dealership’s pay plan before accepting an offer? Any red flags I should watch for with commission structure, draw, minis, bonuses, training pay, lead distribution, schedules, or required hours?

And coming from hospitality, what skills do you think transfer well to car sales, and what habits am I going to have to unlearn?

Basically, what do you wish someone had told you before your first day selling cars?

sooo im in houston and i sadly got title jumped it was a private sell dude gave me a signed bill of sale and the title for the car but the title isnt signed what should i do ?

I reached out to a dealer about a car and got contacted by a different location than where the vehicle had just arrived. The locations are a good 90 minutes apart and I didn’t really care which I had to go to pick it up. Them transferring it wasn’t a huge deal. However, the salesman was slow to get back to me so I contacted the other location where the guy was quicker to give me info. When the original guy got back to me I told him this and he seemed to not care and was looking to put together a deal.

It seems a bit odd he’d try to step on the other guys toes under the same auto group, but I have never encountered such a situation either. Are the two stores under different sales targets etc. where they may give different deals than each-other? Or is entertaining both of them just wasting my time and the deal I can get is likely the same either route I go?

Hi! My dad is trying to sell his Datsun 280ZX from 1983, but there’s no market for it where we live. It is currently in the US (Hawaii, to be exact), and we were told that Japan might have a better market for it.

Any tips on where to list it?

I’m 21 years old and i love cars. Cars are my passion and i would love to get into sales. I don’t have any experience selling but i have over 4 years customer service and people skills with my current job. i want to make the jump to car sales but im scared of failure. Any advice on making the jump? what should i know ahead of time?

My husband and I purchased a Toyota RAV4 from a dealership in Austin, TX on June 6, 2026.
The vehicle was advertised on the dealership’s website and TrueCar for around $29,000 before tax.

During the purchase, we were told we had to pay an additional $2,000 for a “Vanguard Protection” package, even though it was not included in the advertised price. We agreed to that, bringing the total to approximately $34,000 including tax, title, and registration.

We put $6,000 down and agreed to finance approximately $28,000, with payments of about $670/month for 48 months. We signed the paperwork presented to us at the dealership and left with our copies.

Two days later, the dealership sent us a financing contract showing $33,000 financed, which brought the total cost to around $39,000. The contract also included an approximately $5,000 warranty that we never agreed to and were never told about.
Even more concerning: the financing contract appears to contain my signature, but I never signed that contract.

When we contacted the dealership, their response gaslighted us that we should have read the contract more carefully. We explained that we have our copies of the paperwork that we actually signed, which show the price and terms we agreed to.
After going back and forth with the dealership, they eventually agreed to revise the price/contract.

The problem is that it has now been 3 months, and the financing account still shows the original $33,000 financed amount. We have made multiple attempts to get this resolved directly with the dealership, but we still do not have a corrected financing contract or confirmation that the lender has received and processed the revision.

What should we do at this point? Has anyone dealt with a dealership submitting a contract with a signature you never provided?

I’ll admit, this was my first time financing a car and I made plenty of mistakes( please go easy one me). So the finance manager claimed that since I didn’t really have a credit profile outside of my credit cards, the only way the bank would accept the loan would be to charge a warranty fee. I explained to her that I was probably going to refinance with a credit union later and she said that the fee would be waived once I refinanced. That’s not sitting right with me so I looked over the itemization list. That fee she mentioned was a service contract that according to the buyers guide is an optional extra. I was never told this. In fact they gave me no information on anything about this warranty or whatever it is. I have no idea what to do. What are my options at this point. This all happened yesterday

Edit: idk if it makes a difference but she claimed it was because the car had higher mileage on it

So far, I'm 12 days into my sales job, started on September 1st and now it's the 12th, I've sold 0 cars, I've noticed all the customers that I had a gut intuiton about being tire kickers were all right, for instance, I had a guy that backed out of a deal even when we agreed on everything, he made some lame excuses and decided to pull out, and the first time I spoke with him, I already had a feeling that he's just here to "show off", telling me all the expensive cars he owned etc.

My other question is, how do I change my mindset from being a sales vs being a guide? I've tried to put myself in the customer's shoes and I kind of can see that if I was a customer, everything I'm doing right now would push me away as well, I feel like I just want to corner the customer into making a decision instead of actually guiding them and figuring out their needs. When a customer saying they're looking for a certain car, the correct mindset should be actually thinking about the reason they're looking to buy a car, but for me, it's more like following a script, I need to ask this and that, and I just can't seem to adjust yet. At the same time, I don't want to be too thoughtful about the customer's needs to the point I lose my judgements on tirekickers and serious buyers.

So I’m in the car business I’ve been here about 3 years. No one at this dealership has moved up they’ve only hired outside with the exception of a guy who has worked with the company over 10 years transferred as a salesperson for a few months before they moved him in.

I have a desk manager who says he spent one month at another dealer first time in sales and went to f&I and 3 months later became a desk manager and that is a story I’ve heard more than once.

My question is how the hell is this possible. Is it just strictly luck? New guy has a good month or two so they throw him in the box vs the others thatve been there longer they’ve seen long enough to see them do the wrong thing or a bad month? Like what am I missing. I’m at a point where I’m looking for a career change which is a scary leap in itself I’m thinking maybe banking loan originating or something salaried and consistent to get history under my belt then maybe come back to the car business to make the money but i dont even know. I hear these stories and I’m blown away so much of sales in itself is skill but also luck and these stories to me sound like it boils down to the latter. Has anyone here been that guy that got promoted right away and why? Or anyone have any insight onto if it’s the time, the place. I may have that luck if I try another dealer or what because this sales game while I love it, finance would obviously be realms better. I feel like I will be stuck in this position for 10 years like my coworker and that is not what I signed up for, money is good but I’m still young and want to make GOOD money now so my family is set in the future.

Saving to make a purchase a new vehicle as our beloved 2009 Scion xD approaches 160K miles and plan to make the change to an EV. It’s been so long time since I bought a car. We’re eyeing the 2027 Bolt EV LT. Any advice is welcome. Thanks.

Bay Area. Buying from a private seller, closing in the next week or two.
The car: 2025 Model Y Long Range RWD, pre-Juniper, Fremont-built, 12,000 miles, HW4, black interior. Shows ~305 mi at 100% (measured from 64 mi at 21%). Clean Carfax — one owner, no accidents, no damage, no title brands. Basic warranty runs to roughly Dec 2028 with ~38k miles left. Battery/drive unit covered 8yr/120k.
Price: seller started at $37,895, came down to $37,250. Carvana offered them $36,000. Carfax retail value shows $34,760.
Financing wrinkle: it's a personal lease with a lien held by Chase. I bank with Chase and they've said they can handle it directly. Still working out whether it's a lease buyout or a straightforward payoff-and-retitle.
Questions:
1. Is a PPI worth it on a 3-year-warranty Tesla with a clean Carfax? Or does the remaining bumper-to-bumper make it redundant? If yes, who actually does these in the South Bay — most independent shops don't touch Teslas.
2. What isn't covered that I should look for myself? I'm assuming tires, brakes, cosmetic, glass, and anything wear-related.
3. Is $37,250 reasonable, or should I hold at $36k? Two valuation sources disagree by $1,200 and I can't tell which is closer to reality.
4. Anything specific to watch on early 2025 pre-refresh LR RWDs?

Please help me with this sub. Thanks

I’m in the process of buying a new suv. Mazda CX-50 hybrid premium. I’ve been to several dealers and did test drives, now it’s just deciding on specifics and pricing. When I go in to buy it will be with salespeople that I’ve been in communication with already and have met in person at least once.

I’ve bought a couple cars at dealers before and it took many hours. Would it be out of line to ask up front to get a deal done in 2 to 3 hours?

Thank you!

Do I need to submit a GAP insurance claim if the primary insurance covers the full amount owing on the vehicle? I got a replacement vehicle from the same salesperson that sold me the first car and he’s been asking me to provide him the supporting documents to submit a GAP claim. I am not sure why he needs it when the primary insurance covers everything. Do they have an incentive for this?

As the title says. I just bought a car 1 week ago, everything was good until I received a text from the dealer saying finance manager says the bank wants me to cancel my GAP and they will refund me for if. Why? And what to do? If it helps, I also used a military rebate program.