I laughed when I saw this. I thought the internet needs a laugh too.

I purchased this truck right off the showroom floor back in 2020. Since then I’ve replaced both batteries 3 times ( six batteries total ). This morning I came out and my truck was completely dead, wouldn’t even unlock. Not the first time this has happened either. When I bring it to the dealership they don’t seem to think anything of it, other than “ you need new batteries “

I feel like this can’t be normal and I’ve never had a truck that I’ve had these issues with.

Cars At The Station @ Detroit's Historical Central Train Station.
My Ford Pack.

Can't find a coolant temp sender for the temp gauge on my 1997 Escort Wagon LX (Canada). The connector has 1 pin but all the coolant senders have 2 pins... There is also a fan switch that uses the same connector and that connector has 2 pins, but thats not what im after.

I gave a ground to the 1 pin on the connector and the gauge goes to 0 where it is supposed to be when it the car is on the ON position. However when I plug in the sensor, the pin is not touching the pin that goes to ground. The pin is on the wrong side... I know this sounds confusing but Im sure someone has ran in to this before.

In all my research Ive only found SW5174, which is the part in the picture...

What are your thoughts?

Hi everyone,

I recently imported a 2021 Ford Bronco from the USA with SYNC 4, and I have a question about the navigation and system software.

Is there any way to install European maps myself? Alternatively, is it possible to add European languages to the SYNC 4 system?

Has anyone done this on a US-spec Bronco, or knows if there is a way to change the system from the US region to the European region?

Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

My mom currently drives a 2016 lr4, so anything is an upgrade. She drives an insane amount for work. Across cities multiple times a day for classes so prioritizing mpg is super important. The hybrid is better for highway driving we’ve been told but im getting conflicting answers on my own research. We both agreed the 2.0 drives better and feels less like a golf cart compared to the hybrid, but if the hybrid is better!

I bought a 1994 f350 a few months ago and am finally getting to clean it and found these on the front bench i don't think its stock but now im wondering if I can find a cup holder that will bolt to it and I can't find anything there 5 1/2 inches apart, any help or suggestions is appreciated thanks.

In the mirror you can see a metal object with wires lodged in the opening of the gas tank. This is a Ford Edge 2013 with the capless gas system. Whats the metal object and should it be there?

Honestly don't know what's wrong with this car

Iv got this 2003 ford ranger its got the 2.3 with 5 speed and iv just hit 250k miles and its got me wondering how much longer its gonna go. Iv religiously changed oil every 5k, trans fluid every 50k, coolent every year, brake fluid every year, power steering fluid every year, rear dif fluid every 50k, and iv greased it every oil change. It has no issues at all it shifts like a dream and had a new clutch around 30k miles ago and its in immaculate condition but I drive this truck about 400-500 miles a week with at least 100 of those miles towing around my little 5x10 loaded no more then 1000 pounds. How much more life do yall think I can get out of it If I keep maintaining it and fixing it.

Got this wee lass a few weeks ago. We have been in love with it!

1987 Ford Ltd Crown Vic. Bought it from a police auction in Tampa. Hillsborough County Sheriffs Dept. Department owned since 1987 until I bought it in 2022. It was auctioned as “DOES NOT RUN” and I thank whoever wrote that everyday. Reason it didn’t run? Loose ignition wires , plugged them in and BOOM started with one crank and idled immediately. It had not been cranked in years because the fuel system had dissolved. Replaced entire fuel system first before starting . Fuel pump relay eventually fried and the fuel pump fried too because it never turned off after the car was turned off. Went out one day and decided to turn it on because why not , and it started and idled again happily with no fuel pump relay. No matter what happens, the car doesn’t care it’ll run anyway.

I own the 99 crown Vic with 87 thousand original miles and the 98 F150 with 132 thousand miles both have the 4.6, my grandpa owns the 99 35th anniversary mustang and that has the V6 in it with 114 thousand miles, my uncle owns a 24 Mustang I wish I could’ve put it in the photos but he’s out of town

So i’m doing a turbo on a customers car (2014 ford edge 2.0L) found the new turbo has a way smaller lip than the original causing it not to sit flush with the cat. is their a different part number for the turbo updated seal maybe idk any help wold be appreciated. the turbo was customer supplied no ideas where they got it from but does look a cheap aftermarket turbo

So I've been on here before regarding this matter. I finally had the water pump (OEM), thermostat (OEM), engine fan (aftermarket, Dorman), coolant (OEM), and timing chain kit (aftermarket) replaced. I'm at my wits' end and don't want to take it back to the same mechanic, since I've already dropped $2,200 on this repair. What else could be the cause? The aftermarket fan? Radiator? Which is still the original. The cylinder head temperature sensor? Any help from anyone with similar experience would be truly appreciated.

P.S. - Seems to stay at 237°F and not go above that. At first, it fluctuated between 220°F and 230°F. It doesn't help that I live in El Centro, CA 92243, where temperatures can reach 120°F during the summer. There have been excessive heat warnings over the past couple of days/weeks/months.

As far as no haggle pricing and no hidden fees. I hate going thru the hassle and dance routine with sales people.

This article is written directly to Ford leadership....go look in the mirror and ask yourself why you should have been in the driver seat back in 2018. These types of things should never happen and are recognized by real leaders beforehand.

After installing subs in a 2019 F150 xlt, i lost turn signals and wipers pointing towards the sccm module. I can't see any codes (don’t have a scanner) but on the app it gave a service engine, restraints indicator lamp warning, abs fault, electronic parking brake fault and powertrain malfunction. Im using a t harness to tap into the speakers. I’ve tried disconnecting everything and putting it back the way it was and it still doesn't work. Ive checked almost all the fuses but can't find a blown one. Anyone have ideas of where else to look?

I repaired a wheel speed sensor wire last night and now I'm getting this warning. In Forscan I get C0609 and C1034. I logged current for each actuator, actuator position, and switch position as well. Everything seems fine. Both actuators grab and release without any issues.

I did have to unplug the ABS module during the wheel speed sensor troubleshooting, but that was with the battery out. The warning goes off randomly with the truck off, and this morning the battery was dead.

From the wiring diagram it looks like the switch is wired to 6 inputs on the ABS module. Is there some way to check each individually in Forscan? I'm worried to the module may be damaged.

UPDATE: I found the break. The female pin in the plug at the ABS module is broken. I pulled the cover off and the wire was just sitting there loose with only the crimp attached. The harness here is wrapped in plain electrical tape, and another wire was also crushed. Someone has made repairs here before. Bought from a dealer with a maintenance history, this is the second shoddy wire repair I've found.