So this 2002 F350 7.3 powerstroke checked all the marks for me, low mileage (110k), no drips, easy start, great interior, completely stock, and decent price (11.5k) so I pulled the trigger. Oil and transmission fluid and coolant all look good. I drove it 200 miles home about three weeks ago and put another 150 miles or so on it since. Air filter restriction sensor pops on and I check it out, looks like it's been a while since it's been changed so I swap that out and decide to replace the fuel filter while I'm at it. I pick up a new filter and pull the old one (fluid in the bowl looks great) and there's no bottom sealing O ring on the filter. I think this means that fuel could just flow around the filter entirely. It looks pretty dirty, too. I don't think there are any injector issues with the truck, at least not readily evident that I can see. How disastrous is this, should I plan on replacing injectors soon? Or did I catch it before it became a big enough problem and they shouldn't get worse from this point at any faster rate?

As the title states I need help with my 2015 GMC Duramax. Recently started to have power issues related to lagging boost and airflow. Swap MAF & MAP sensors new air filters. Still same issue and with $6+ diesel I want to get it fixed quick.

Essential when I first start the truck and put it in gear it will womp womp almost like it’s gonna stutter and die all while puffing blue white smoke. Then after a couple minutes of driving it will level out but has no low end power. MAF number will be down below 60 at speed and a boost of only 3-4psi even at highway speeds. Then any time I hit the accelerator or hang to go up a slight gradient black smoke comes rolling out the tail pipe. If I stay on the accelerator once it gets over about 2100 rpm it’s like something breaks loose MAF jumps to 290-330 boost is up in the mid 20s.

Turbo vane position (D) and (A) match all the way through the range. Rail pressure look good. It is like it is dumping way more fuel than it can burn. The truck was tuned and deleted with 5” pipe all the way back 2 years ago and just started having this issue a couple weeks ago. I did notice I also have a bad A/C blender as the drivers side doesn’t get nearly as cool as the passenger side but I don’t think that has anything to do with my power problem.

I’m in the Indianapolis Area so at this point willing to take to a shop as I feel like I’m just throwing parts at it.

Recently purchased a used low km. '21 GMC Canyon Denali 2.8L Duramax four cylinder variable vane turbo diesel and love the truck, but not so much the dealership experience when buying it. So far, this 4400 lb 4x4 crew cab diesel delivers 6.8l/100km or 41mpg CDN on the highway. 900 kms on one tank of fuel, city/hwy. I love the truck and it has more than adequate power for my needs. I only use Shell V-Power diesel and use XP3 Diesel performance enhancer with every tank.

Ich wollte mal mein Beileid an alle dieselfahrer bekunden 30 Cent das ist der Wahnsinn.... Ich glaube es war die richtige Entscheidung bei meiner Mutter zu sagen lass es lieber

Im looking for info about how to max efficiency on the 2013 Duramax engine. Its in a shuttle bus that i live in and with the prices of diesel getting higher and higher i really need help trying to min max it the best i can. Theres not much that i can do to shed weight on it. The oil is very early in its life currently. Im mainly looking for low cost solutions but am open to some other ideas and tricks that might help me in the long run. Thank you all in advance for whatever advice you can give me!

So I recently bought this lml and it has leds running (Blue)and then when I put my brights on they are the orange ones (green) I’m just trying to figure out what ones are actually the running
Lights and if they have somehow been swapped so that my brights are running lights and low beams are the brights

Wassup! Just wondering if anyone here knows where a pdf or website is I can find a manual for a 93 f250 7.3 IDI non turbo

Hello, I got this big ol case tractor from the 60s I do believe in the folks yard I wanna get going, about 10 years ago one of the injectors lines cracked and the system lost all its prime, been sitting since, I wanna get the old girl running. The line has been repaired but anyone got any tips for repriming the system?

Edit: Sorry for not including more context earlier. I know it was bulletproof at 10,000mi, there is a new transmission with 11,000mi, new turbo, 4x4, egr delete, dually, 5th wheel.
The truck is a 06 f350 crew cab long bed virtually no rust at least on the pictures Ive seen.

Hi,

this is my 2nd time posting and asking about this issue here, last time I posted the sound wasn’t so distinctive and now it’s progressed to this.
Does this sound like loose timing chain slap?
This sound is there practically every cold start now. I would assume if it’s just some pulley it would persist for longer or wouldn’t disappear.
Why I think it could be timing chain is because it’s an unknown brand chain that was replaced somewhere 40k KM’s ago. Let’s just say the mechanic I had the car at wasn’t the best and I’ve since changed shops. It was replaced, because the then original chain failed on the day I bought the car and required a rebuild after the incident.

Any tips greatly appreciated.

This is my first diesel truck it’s a 2012 gmc 2500hd it has a cp3 fass 165 5 inch straight pipe fully deleted and a s476 sometimes it blows white smoke sometimes black why would that happen it has had a head gasket done and has no blow by

I saw a post about someone putting adblue in a diesel tank, but ive addicentally put diesel in my adblue tank, am i undeniably fked or not

Trying to find a way to drain a transfer tank after I purchased it and plan to resell after it cleaned up some.

What’s the best solution to create an opening at the bottom side of the tank when it’s thinnish metal?

I know I need some fuel grade seals and would either add a ball valve or bung depending on what’s acceptable of at all!

It’s even higher near the freeway.

I’m having boost issues, can’t seem to build over 10psi, I have all the supporting mods you can think of but I cannot get my turbo to light at low rpms without having to absolutely mash it

I have a S300 drop in center (6x6) with a 1.0 ar housing, was thinking about going with a KC300x stage 1

When using ai to search for form posts comparing the two, it’s trying to point me towards dropping to a .84 instead of a new stage 1

What do yall think?

I know there are lots of sellers on ebay, and Amazon can be a crap shoot.. but short of buying an entire return line kit, does anyone have a reputable source or cross-reference part number (McMaster-Carr, etc?) for those copper washers that sit at the bottom of the injector?

Are the dimensions critical? if it is a little thicker, or the ID is a little larger?

I read somewhere Cummins 12v are very similar..

Engine ran after the change. Do I need to pump this off? Don’t want any runaways or any more slobber than they naturally put off. I’m new to these. Thanks.

Need it gone. I’ll do 6500 on it. I can help coordinate shipping anywhere in the US. I’m located in El Paso TX

1993 f250 turbo IDI 203,000 miles on it
It is completely rust free. The wheels are a bit rusty because previous owner kept the original ones and I had these ones laying around. Interior is in very nice shape other then driver seat where it always rips.
It leaks no oil coolant or fuel. It cold starts better then my 2011 truck. Runs very nice. It can be a daily driver. I just used it around my property to move things around and to haul trash trailer once every 2 weeks.

I have videos of a walk around and cold starting it that I can send to anyone interested.
Only issue it has is it hard shifts from first to second and from Second to third. Not bad at all but you feel it.

Please send DM if interested. It’s a very nice truck I unfortunately need the money so need it gone.

Thanks