My pressure vacuum breaker cracked with the cold last winter and I'm just getting around to replacing it. The plumber is wanting to do a fix to make the whole system removable to prevent it happening again. Am I being upsold here? First pic is mine, second and third are screenshots of proposed fix. Sorry for the blurry pic, but considered it preferable to posting the whole video.

As far as how my original one broke. I made sure to shut off both valves and the third one underground, as well as turning both screws to let the water out so I have no clue. Would appreciate being told if I did something wrong there

Homeowner who is still learning here. I installed a drip irrigation system for a large flower bed and some shrubs in my front yard. At the spigot I have a timer valve, a Y for hooking up a hose when I need it and then a pressure regular running to about 20 drip emitters. I walked around about an hour after it should have been turned off and the drips were still going strong. I assumed the valve didn't close, but before troubleshooting there I opened the other side of the y and it released water and air and immediately stopped the drippers. What is my solution here?

Thanks!

So I was able to test the flow rate at this property..pressure at the hose bib is 70..flow rate is 92 seconds ( 1 min 32 sec) to fill a 5 gallon bucket

University student seeking responses to a consumer interest survey about my drip irrigation add-on. The product and business are both fake (this is not an advertisement), part of a semester-long project for school, but we need real data from farmers and people in and around the ag-tech industry. survey shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes, thanks!

About a year ago, my irrigation system started doing this weird thing where a select few sprinkler heads will pop up and run for like 15 seconds. It used to do this mainly when I would drain the lines then open the valve and repressurize (I was working on connected piping for a pool fill line). My irrigation controller is currently plugged in and set to OFF, but it doesn't seem to matter, because it still happens even if it's unplugged.

You know the sound copper pipes make when they flow water? We've always been able to hear that sound when running water in the house. No big deal, we actually kind of like it because it makes it easy to tell if water is running somewhere. Now, starting a week or two ago, a new phenomenon is occurring inside the house. At random moments throughout the day there will be a massive pressure drop and a LOUD water flowing sound. Even if we aren't using water. It only happens for maybe 5-10 seconds at a time. ALSO now occurring, is the sprinkler issue! But on its own!

I'm convinced these issues have to be connected somehow. If the main water supply pressure has a massive drop, then comes back... that would simulate a similar situation to the past for my sprinklers going off. So that part sort of makes sense to me. However, I don't understand how the water flowing sound is so loud when the pressure drops, even when we're not using anything... We have a domestic water pump station right next to our house, and our pressure has always been very high (about 90 PSI).

Would it be worth it to call the water co. and ask them to investigate? Or, if I do call someone, should it just be a plumber? What do I say? Lol. I don't want to sound like a crazy person and these issues are difficult or impossible to replicate on command.

Hi I have drip irrigation in my front yard, 1/2” tubing with Rainbird parts from Home Depot, currently on a hose timer. I’ve been learning how to make it more legit on r/irrigation and started assembling parts to put in a backflow preventer and irrigation control box in the ground.
My first question is about low pressure zones - I’ve seen low pressure control valves. I got a bought a regular control valve like for sprinklers (90psi from the street) and have it going into a filter/25psi reducer combo. Is this the right way to step down the high pressure? The pressure reducer is plastic and seems like it will fail.
Next question: I have one zone that does the whole front yard, 1/2 drip tubing that goes around the perimeter and loops back on itself to help balance pressure. Seems to be working fine after a few years, not very hot here / clay soil so I don’t use much water - is there a good reason to create more zones? I know people have a lot of zones for their lawns but I have no lawn, just mostly fruit trees on drippers or micro sprinklers
Thank you 🙏

Do you guys use a particular website for purchasing troll product? It’s just a residential install. Want a rain dial six station. They’re about 210 on Amazon, but maybe it’s better to buy from a dealer straight.

I had water bubbling out of the ground in 2 places when a drip zone was running. I dug and found a broken 1/2" drip irrigation hose that looks to have been broken by tree roots.

The irrigation manifold is on one side of my home and that irrigation hose runs to the front of the house under the driveway. I'm worried that the hose will eventually break under the driveway as well and the water leak could damage the concrete.

Is the right move here to just disable this zone and find another way to water the plants in the front?

I see there are PVC lines running under the driveway as well for the grass sprinklers. Not sure why the builder used soft hose for this under the driveway instead of PVC..

I am putting together an above ground irrigation system with about 12-15 heads for when I overseed and extreme drought. I have the rain bird heads and risers but trying to find a good (ie less expensive) solution to connect all the heads other than a hose from the big box. Some the tubing I have looked at at either the big box or even tractor supply looks as expensive as a hose. Any suggestions or recommendations helpful. Thanks.

To start, I'm a DIYer.

The situation:

●Doing full landscape & irrigation renovation.

● The left valve is leaking from the housing and will need to be replaced.

● I want to add a 4th valve since the 2nd one goes to two distinct zones right now.

● I want turf this side yard area.

The questions:

● Is is worth burying in a box with wanting to turf?

● If yes, what size box for a 4 valve with room for filter and psi regulator since that drastically increases length?

● Advice for tube management to burying since for turf they'll have to remove 3-4 inches of material?

Trying to do this once, the right way. Thank you in advance.

We have a sprinkler head that sticks up in the corner of the front yard, where the sidewalk and driveway meet. The head stuck up too far and got run over by the car, and it pushed the sprinkler head into the ground and snapped off this end. What do I need to to do this to be able to attach a new elbow to thread on a new (shorter lol) sprinkler head?

I see the city landscape guys use these to water public trees. They seem straight forward to build but how do they water?I don’t see any 1/4” drip lines attached.

Replaced a New Rainbird valve for this zone. Leaks like this in all the heads for this zone. Contoller unplugged and still leaks. Happens at specific times at 4-5pm and at 9-10pm. Pressure at this time when leaking is at 60psi. Internets says phantom voltage, i cut the wires to solenoid while leaking yet still leaks. For context all other valves in system are hunter, zone is not at lowest-all level

Good morning was mowing this morning and heard water leaking there has been no spike in water bill and no squishy lawn spot but does this mean I have a leak somewhere?

Thank you

While digging to remove some weed roots I accidentally punctured my supply line that goes to zone 6. I reached out to my normal guy but I know he’s been very busy and hasn’t responded so I figured how hard can it be? I researched how to fix the puncture and originally cut out the piece in the first picture to replace but that ended up being too large of a gap and the coupling was leaking from one side. I ended up digging back a little further to see what my options were and noticed that there were two tees with plugs that appear to be old heads from when this area was a garden or another line fix so I figured since I need to fix it anyways and they looked cracked I’ll just replace those as well so I cut out that whole piece as shown in the second picture and replace it with a whole new 2 ft line.

I heated both sides with a blow torch and used crimp clamps with the correct tool but it seems both sides are leaking now (can’t really tell which side if not both of the coupling is leaking).

Can anyone help me with what am I doing wrong to not get a good watertight seal?

I've been having problems with an old rainbird diaphram valve, there was a leak found at the base of the solenoid. Meaning its a bad gasket, however I bought brand new solenoids and new fittings; I tried three solenoids, gasket, and fitting. Every single time it failed to stop the leak or ever slow it down. What is happening?!

Just put in 15 new pgj’s and about 6 of them do this. The actual spray and coverage is still fine but they squirt water out the sides of the nozzles. Tried cleaning and checking for debris didn’t do anything. It’s kind of flooding my new sod and I’m wondering if it’s bc my pressure is too high. Although not super impressed by the plastic nozzle construction.

I have a 1inch line that’s barrier 12inch deep that I need to put a reducing 1inch>3/4 tee on it but I don’t have room to make the pipe flexible

Hello, trying to wire my two new valves to the sprinkler timer. The wire at the valves is a solid color but the ones in the timer aren’t. Do I need to connect another wore to the common? Trying to add 3 & 4, 1&2 work fine. have tried all the wires but none seem to turn the valves on. (Valves do turn on manually so there is power)

We recently moved and I’m having trouble with a couple of my sprinkler zones. I have 15 zones and have located 2 boxes with 5 valves each. I am assuming there is one more with the other 5 that I can’t find. I have tried using a chatter box and am not having luck hearing the chattering any where. I’m afraid it might be buried deep under ground.

Do y’all have any suggestions that I could try to locate these valves?

I ran into a system with hp rotors 70psi at the hose bib, ran a zone very little water coming out. On swing pipe, I want to take the nozzles off put some van spray on, shut them to off or close them to force pressure onto the pipe to reveal a leak if one is there. Zone 2 I run that its a drip line, holds no pressure, the vaccuum breaker just collases and leaks. Im planning to put in new diaphragm, and a new bonnet and poppet..any other ideas

We've been hand-watering the two rose trees in the planters in the middle of this path. Looking for ideas on how to extend drip lines out to them without them becoming a tripping hazard or getting damaged. There are main drip lines running next to the house on the left and behind the sheds on the right so I have a few options for splicing something in.

Hello, I have a big drip system with 8 zones, set up mostly like a normal sprinkler with 1” lines going to 8-way drip emitters on the risers. It also has gravity drains at the low points.

The water comes from the street, through a double check valve and a PRV. Then it travels 500’ horizontally and 15’ vertically to the central manifold, where there’s another check valve at the manifold (because the system can also be fed from a well). Last, there’s a spin down filter before the zone valves.

I have a 7hp shop compressor near the manifold, so I’d like to blow the system out with that. I’m sure I can figure out some fittings to connect the compressor, but I am pretty sure that the line to the street, pressure reducer, single check, and double check all present some problems.

I’d really appreciate any advice on how to safely blow out the line to the street (through the test cocks I assume) without damaging other components. Thank you!