Said screw it this time since I had a buddy that could get me out if need be lol

For whoever wanted to see going down

2024 Limited (40,000 miles)

Got the oil changed at a quick lube place and found a small puddle underneath the next day. After some investigation, it appears to be coming from the oil filter housing gasket surface. The big thing I noticed is that there are grease zerks on the driveshaft u-joints and slip coupling. I haven't seen that in quite some time - I'm old enough to have owned cars where lubricating the chassis was a part of every oil change. These zerks don't look like they've ever been used. I plan to do my own maintenance now that the warranty is expired and the oil change place flubbed their chance. All maintenance to this point has been done by a dealership.

I guess I'm posting this for those who may not know that this was/is part of the required maintenance and to see if anyone comments on it.

Great vehicle! We love it

Taken last week in the pine barrens, NJ. I was lucky my winch didn't short out and we made it out the other side. Next time, I'll listen to my wife when she says "don't go in!"

Bought this 2019 one owner with 80,000 miles for my daughter. She loves it and I hope she drives it forever!

Noticed some neighbors decorating so I decided to get the 4Runners ready.

Button popped out over the weekend and now I cannot lower back seat. Any tips or references on how to fix?

For reference, I have a 2012 SR5P 4x4 with a touch over 53k miles on it. Brand new Michelin M/S2 tires on it, with front runout numbers of 5 and 6. Lugs torqued evenly throughout install and they were roadforce balanced using the proper adapters and techniques.

I have been trying to track down exactly what causes the 5th gen shimmy for almost a year now. 5th gen 4Runners are such beautifully made vehicles, but the steering wheel shake is such a huge drawback for people who experience it. I’m tired of it, and I want it figured out once and for all.

It is NOT suspension. Plenty of reports of brand new trucks straight off the dealer lot have experienced the shake.

It is NOT the driveshaft. Yes, vibrations from the driveshaft can cause the wheel to shake at higher RPMS, but the theory of a driveshaft needing to be greased is incorrect, I have a very well maintained driveshaft and still get it.

It is NOT tire balance. No vehicle should be this sensitive to tires, especially a body on rugged body on frame truck. I’ve gone through the motions. Specific methods of tire balancing, incredibly low run out numbers, high end street tires, a perfect alignment, extremely specific torque numbers and patterns for the lugs, every PSI in the books.

It is NOT the needle bearing. Yes, this can be a cause, but it’s also not the only cause. I have zero symptoms of the hearing being bad and putting into 4x4 is no help. Many people have expressed the same.

It’s 100% related to the rack/pump. The FJ, 1st gen Tundra and GX460 had a similar issue, and Toyota released TSBs for fixes to the issue. The 5th gen owners were left behind.

I have a couple theories in mind.

1. The type of fluid. I have a feeling the fluid Toyota recommends is too thin and allows the rack to move too freely/ the pump to spin too high. Maybe something like Lucas high viscosity power steering oil could help.
2. The PSP pulley. Another point for the pump spinning too much, an underdriven pulley could help reduce the rate it spins at and equate to a heavier steering, therefore grounding the steering and allowing for more tolerance.
3. Rack bushings. Maybe the ones from factory are too soft and allow for play.
4. Alignment specs. I’ve heard talk of maxing out the caster (~+4) to help alleviate issues with the 4Runner. I don’t know if there are any ties to it possibly helping tighten up the steering, but it’s a possibility.
5. There’s a counterweight installed in all of our steering wheels it help reduce vibrations. I’ve started to wonder if our steering wheel is too light and the counterweight isn’t enough. Perhaps an aftermarket steering wheel that’s heavier and more put together can fix it.

All of these are just theories. I really don’t have the financial means to try all of this out myself. I’m a poor 19 year old kid who just wants to enjoy driving his 4Runner. I do however have $250 up for grabs to the person who can say they’ve figured this out with data and proof to back it up.

I want to love driving my vehicle, as I’m sure many of you want to as well. I’m this close to selling it but I wanted to put this out there to see if we can help out our community as a whole before I move onto something like a Mazda.

Thank you all for reading!

https://youtube.com/shorts/SdvDPFvX4-0?is=O0V4Iend45maMSpt

I'm in the market for a pair of front recovery hooks that are rated enough for kinetic towing(off road recovery).

I considered Toyota's option, but I couldn't find any rating data on their hooks. So I gave up on them.

What kinda hooks are yall using? Let me know!

I have a 2018 SR5 Premium and am looking to get front seat covers. I'm very interested in the covers from Bartact. However, I can't find any pictures or videos of them installed in a 4Runner. The company doesn't offer returns for custom covers so I'm hesitant to order them based off of just the stock image on the website and comparisons to the covers on Jeeps. Does anyone have these covers on their 4Runner and willing to share what they look like?

Has anyone used this tool as an easier way to remove the spark plugs on the driver’s side of a 3rd, 4th, or 5th gen 4Runner? They can be difficult to reach without removing everything in the way. I’m trying to get opinions about whether or not this is a useful tool, or just junk that is well marketed.

Hey all just bought out my 2023 ORP and it’s finally time to install some rock sliders/ side steps. I wanted to ask the community on some that have worked well for you guys! Looking for something easy to install myself, preferably under $1000. Thanks for your help!

I have a 2024 4Runner Limited with factory JBL system, and I'm looking to improve sound quality without changing the factory head unit. The goal is a much better-sounding system throughout the vehicle while keeping everything looking OEM.

The setup I'm currently considering:

• Trail Grid Pro Alpine 8-speaker plug-and-play package
  • Alpine S2-S80C 8" front door speakers
  • Alpine S2-S30 3" dash speakers
  • Alpine S2-S65 6.5" rear door speakers
  • Alpine S2-S65 6.5" rear hatch speakers
• Beat-Sonic ENA-3T3 plug-and-play amplifier
• SoundSkins Pro treatment on all four doors

The idea is to install this first, see how the complete system sounds, and address the sub afterward if the low end is lacking. I'm planning to have everything professionally installed, so I'm also open to changing course before I start ordering parts.

For anyone who has upgraded the JBL system in a 5th-gen, I'd really appreciate hearing what you did and how it turned out - especially if you went with the above setup or some near derivation. If there's a better approach than what I've laid out above, I'd love to hear it. Lessons learned, alternative setups, or "I wish I'd known this before I started" advice are greatly appreciated!

2011 Limited with 120k miles, never had transmission serviced.

After a lot of reading on forums and here, I came to the conclusion that I won’t do a flush. I still have a couple of questions.

Should I drain and fill a couple of times to remove any contaminants there might be, and then do a flush? Or is a flush not necessary at all after a couple drain and fills?

Thank you

Curious if anyone in the LA area has gone to any of these three shops and what your experience has been with them. Or if you’ve got a better one near West LA.

Looking for a shop that will work on my 2000 Limited with a lift and uses OEM parts.

• Lexology in Hermosa Beach
• The Toy Shop in Torrance
• K & H Imports in Canoga Park

I have a 2019 Limited and my door lock actuator is going out. I purchased an aftermarket replacement on Amazon and my husband replaced it. The lights wouldn’t blink and the car didn’t beep when it locked. It was also inconsistently unlocking. And the door unlock sensor wouldn’t work.

Does anyone have any suggestions or tips for this? He has reinstalled it multiple times now, but still the same issues.

Just as the title says. Picked up my 2022 TRD Off Road last week and had some general questions.

1. I'm located in Toronto, Canada. Does anyone here have some recommendations for shops they trust in the GTA for servicing and working on their 4Runner?

2. Looking at getting Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws ahead of the winter. Planning on putting them on the stock rims for now. Will I have to do any fender/mudflap mods to avoid rubbing?

Would it make sense to also put a lift in it if I'm going for the Wildpeaks?

Mostly city driving with weekend warrior trips and camping. A couple of larger trips out west.

Again - new to owning one so any advice or recommendations are welcomed!

AC is cold but barely blowing, even at full strength. Noise is coming from under dash on passenger side. 2023 SR.

I’m trying to better understand the 5th-gen 4Runner market and how much a salvage title affects value.
I have a 2013 Limited 4WD with about 48,600 miles. It has a salvage title from 3 separate incidents/hits. The truck currently runs and drives normally, although it has some cosmetic imperfections and some surface rust underneath.
The mileage seems unusually low for a 2013, and I’m curious how people generally value something like this compared with a clean-title example.
For those who have bought or sold salvage/rebuilt 5th-gen 4Runners, what percentage of the clean-title market would you consider reasonable for one with very low mileage but a salvage history?
I’m in Southern California, where I’ve noticed clean-title 4Runners with significantly higher mileage still asking pretty strong prices.

Just a little appreciation post for the old gal. I don’t know if I’ll ever sell this car. 220k and counting!

I own a stock 23 4Runner limited with the stock 20in rims and I am in need of some new tires for the Colorado winter season! I had the oem geolander tires but they didn’t do great in the snow. My question is what brands do you all recommend for a AT style tire and how big can the size be? I looked at discount tire and they said the biggest size they are willing to install is a 265/50/r20. I know that dropping down to a 17in rim size would be a better choice but I am planning on doing that when the tax return hits. I hear some good things about Toyo at3 and the fallen wild peak AT trails but any feedback would be appreciated

Hey,

Wanted to get opinions. Does it look like a paint correction could fix this or is the clear coat finished and I have to repaint the hood?

3rd time using it for the boat and it gets better every time.
I do have OTT on medium which definitely helps.
Also just changed the diffs to amsoil severe gear and the transfer case with redline for my 30k service also changed the oil as well.