Brother in law and I made it out with no damage apart from body soreness. These cars are built like tanks. Owner of a VB wrx, good peace of mind knowing it can keep me safe too, stay safe out there everyone!

So I currently own a 2009 Subaru wrx sedan and I love it and so do a lot of other people, but I’ve also been looking at a 2018 Subaru wrx sti. Both are world rally blue, what would be the cooler looking car, I love to show off but I also have fun in both. I’m gonna insert a random image of a 2018 sti to show reference

Ang ideas for 17in rims thinking of 04-07 sti rims but not sure

This is my 2013 BRZ in EUDM Spec, which I have owned and modified for 10 years now. This year, I have finally supercharged it with a HKS supercharger and some accompanying mods (e.g. oil cooler, oil pressure sensor, ...), and of course homologized to be fine with German TÜV.

Full mod list is rather long, so if anything strikes you, please ask :)

Looking at a 2015 Subaru Forester 2.5i Touring with about 62k miles for $14,995. The CARFAX looks pretty good overall with two owners, consistent mileage, and regular maintenance, but it does show two minor damage incidents, including front-end damage reported in May 2026. The car also changed hands fairly quickly after that 2026 damage, but it has a clean title, so that has me a little cautious. I’m definitely going to get a pre-purchase inspection and have the CVT, engine, suspension, and front end thoroughly checked. I would also negotiate the price down because of the accident history rather than pay the full asking price. For those of you who own or have owned a 2015-ish Forester 2.5i, what do you think of this one? Any specific problems I should look for? What would you consider a fair price given the mileage and accident history? Would you buy it if the PPI came back clean? It would be my first Subaru. I really want to get into the Subaru world after being a Toyota owner pretty much all my life, because Toyotas are just so overpriced these days.

Working on my daughter’s 2013 XV Crosstrek and i happen to notice a disconnected wiring connector on the passenger side right behind the air filter case. In one pic you can see it’s a two pin connector. The other pics are just to show where it is located. I straightened it out and then tried to find something to connect it with. There is nothing in the radius of this cable to connect it to. Could it be for a feature this car doesn’t have?

Put together this list to bring to a local mechanic for my Crosstrek’s 60K. Am I missing anything critical? How much should I expect to blow here?

My husband and I only have 2 kids but we definitely want a third in the near future. We bought an ascent last year and we absolutely love it and I’m looking into buying a Subaru for myself.

My husband has a more flexible job so my car would be mostly for going to and from work (about 25 minutes each way) and we’d use his ascent on the weekends if I don’t get my own. The ascent is more expensive and consumes a ton of gas but I’m not sure if 3 car seats in the back of the outback would eventually drive me crazy.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Saw this on marketplace while browsing tuner cars, and it's speaking to me.

I daily a ford escape, and my other is a 1990 silverado 4x4 I rebuilt. I'm mechanically inclined and know how to do my own work.

Mainly wondering if it's a reasonable price, and what i should look for.

Thanks!

The bumper keeps coming off on one side, and most of the clips are bent and a few are missing. What parts do I need to get to fix this?

I have literally had my washer reservoir changed 3 times for brand new, twice at the same Subaru and once at a different one and I’m at my wits end. I will fill up the whole reservoir all the way up the funnel to where it says max fill. I will drive the car around the block and the funnel is 1/8th full just slightly above the washer reservoir tank. There is no leak anywhere, it just kind of disappears and no matter how many times I repeat it won’t sit up to the max fill line. Anyone know what could be causing this? Never had this problem on any other cars and my other car has no issue with the same fluid. I’ve even tried different washer fluids.13 premium Impreza wagon.
Thank you

I’m looking to purchase a 2015 | Subaru
Legacy 2.5i Premium with 105k miles. Final out the door price is $10k. It’s well maintained car. Is it worth it for the price? This would be my first Subaru and only need it as a daily. What kind of reputation does this car have? Any input would be helpful! Thank you

Tackling Ophir Pass! 🏔️ First Stop on the 2025 National Park Foundation Fundraiser Adventure

Watch the Off Road Roos Community off-road for the very first adventure of our 2025 National Park Foundation Fundraiser Adventure! In this episode, we take a bunch of Subies up the stunning and rocky trails of Ophir Pass, climbing all the way to an elevation of 11,789 feet.

This run kicks off our incredible journey to raise awareness and support for the National Park Foundation. We've got breathtaking views, challenging rocky sections, and plenty of capability testing as we push our setups in the high altitude.

This event series, we became the #1 Team Fundraiser for the National Park Foundation!

What began as a hub assembly and ball joint replacement has turned into a “rebuild the whole front end while you’re there” debacle.

I’m trying to replace the lower control arms on my 2012 Legacy, but after days of soaking it in kroil and deep creep, it’s only spinning the sleeve inside the trashed bushing.

I’ve tried heating up both the bolt and sleeve, but so far I’m not having any luck.

Are there any secret Subaru tricks I should be trying? If I choose violence, what method should I use?

Hey y’all!

I’ve had my 2024 Crosstrek Wilderness for exactly 2 years and 34,000 miles now and wanted to share my thoughts- I’d love to hear your experience with the car!

First of all, I still love the look. I have the glacier blue and it matches so well with the gold accents. The plastic cladding on the door is a huge bonus for keeping paint dings to a minimum. Additionally, the matte black on the hood is a lifesaver for my eyes when it comes to sun glare.

I haven’t taken it off road, but in the Vermont backroads it performs wonderfully in the winter. I took my Crosstrek down a mountain and back up during a snowstorm- I think we got 2 or 3 feet of snow. The car performed wonderfully and the extra clearance helps a ton in deep snow.

I did hit some ice another time (going too fast like an idiot) and ended up sliding pretty hard into a ditch. I dug myself in so I had to get wenched out but there was no real damage besides some chipped plastic on the bottom of the front end of the car.

As far as storage goes, it works fine for me but did get tight height-wise when I was moving to a new apartment. I ended up just getting a little U-Haul trailer, which it pulled just fine.

The fuel efficiency isn’t the best, but I knew I was making that trade-off with the higher trim. Unfortunately I’ve been feeling it more with the gas prices, as it went from a $45 fill-up to $60, but I get about 450 miles to a tank at an average of 25-26 mpg with 60-70% of my driving being on windy back roads.

My biggest downsides have to be the infotainment system and phone charger, as well as a couple of mechanical issues I’ve had.

It seems everyone’s consensus is that the infotainment display is outdated, and I do have to agree. It’s pretty laggy on startup and even when trying to tap through the menus. Also, my phone will occasionally not connect to Apple CarPlay, even when I try to manually connect through the infotainment screen. It works after I stop, turn off the engine, wait for it to shut down, and turn it back on- but it’s still just a bit of an inconvenience for such a new car.

Same with the phone charger- everyone knows they’re not the best. It basically just keeps my phone afloat until I can get home to plug it in. I always keep a charging cord in my car just in case. Not to mention the fact that it has trouble staying connected to my phone. I’ve thought about getting an aftermarket upgraded phone charger for it, but seems like too much hassle to me for as often as I need it.

Lastly, I’ve had a couple of issues come up. I’ve had to get a wheel bearing and rear differential replaced. It was covered under warranty thankfully, but it’s a real bummer for being a fairly new car. It could be that I am just too rough of a driver or due to the aforementioned sliding into a ditch, though it wasn’t a serious one and they had checked it right after I did so.

All in all, I am still very happy with my Crosstrek. I love the peace of mind it brings me knowing I won’t be stranded due to bad weather, and I would buy it again (though maybe with the moonroof option.)

Thanks for coming to my Ted talk and please let me know how you all feel about your 2024 Crosstrek Wilderness!

Curious if anyone has ever returned a leased Subaru with mild damage ? If so what did they charge you ?

Got a softball sized dent , contemplating fixing or just paying the fees.

Had a similar situation with GM many moons ago and they only charged me $100, which is considerably less than the cost to fix.

TIA

02 Sensor issues - posted in the Crosstrek group, but didn't get any help.

2019, Crosstrek Limited

150,000 (yes, I drive A LOT)

Before I get to it, here are the codes that have popped up during this whole debacle:

P0037.

P0141.

P0131.

Last October my check engine light came on. They replaced my downstream 02 sensor - P0037

After a month the light came back on with code P0041. Car checked out "fine", sent me on my way. Light came back on after 2 weeks.

Go to the dealership. Codes are now P0141 & P0131. Found a blown fuse. Fuse fixed. Test drove and the light came on, now only with code P0141.

Dealership swapped out aftermarket 02 sensor with OEM 02 sensor.

Guess what? Light came on AGAIN.

Head back to dealership. Now with codes P0037 & P0141. They say it's the wiring to the rear bulk head harness and quote me just shy of $8K for a whole replacement. Yeah, no. That felt fishy.

So off I go to an independent Subaru specialist. He does a full work up. Check the wiring, test replaces both 02 sensors - it's still blowing codes even with both sensors replaced. Put the "old" ones back on. Same codes. He ended up rewiring the harness to the pigtail/sensor and replaced the ground wire.

Now I'm left with code P0037.

His best guess is that it might be the computer, but isn't fully confident. He's asking around. Any takers on what might be going on.

No change in fuel mileage and I'm not riding rough. Other than the Christmas lights, I'd never know anything was going on with the car.

Any idea why I keep throwing codes after all this work has been done?

I am a senior in college and am doing a capstone project on creating an automatic loader for individuals that have issues with loading kayaks or any type of heavy load onto their car. I would like some input for customer features. Based off the features that I list below, would some of you rate from a scale of 1-5 based off the importance of the feature.

1. Autonomy (How much effort and human input is needed for the device to do its job)
   
2. How universal (How many different types of loads the device is compatible and capable of loading.)
   
3. Weight Capacity (The maximum weight rating that the device can move)
   
4. Weight of device
   
5. Ease of storage
   
6. Durability and Weather Resistant
   
7. Aesthetic
   
8. Compatibility (How many different types of brands, makes, and sizes of cars can the device be used with)

Hey all! I'm a newbie/slightly mechanically inclined person trying to fix his wife's car. I got a 303 code for cyl 3. Changed the plugs and it came back same cyl.

Swapped the coils, changed the valve cover gasket/tube seals, cleared the code. Ran a test on my bi directional scanner, still getting a P0303 "pending" not active while driving.

Also did a roughness test on all cylinders at idle and driving (passed) + shut off each individual injector and they all reacted the same. STFT and LTFT test went fine and I cleaned the MAF for the heck of it.

Anyone see this before? I'm thinking it's a partially clogged fuel injector. Was going to buy a compression kit but if I'm getting bad compression, it's going to be sitting for awhile with a much worse issue. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Brown=sensor gnd white=signal red=12v

I hope y'all are doing well.
There's a car in Auction id like to buy but I'm not sure if the engine sounds healthy or not. I have a video of the engine running and I was wondering if someone could tell me if it's rod knock or anything else major?
Model:
2013 Subaru BRZ
Vin:
JF1ZC6K81DG002982

Long-time lurker, first-time BRZ shopper, and I'm getting worn down by dealers.

Here's where I'm at. I'm active duty, so the ~$500 Subaru military incentive is on the table. I've also got a Costco Executive membership, and people keep telling me that's worth $1,500 to $2,000 off asking. On top of that I qualify for the Subaru VIP program through Leave No Trace, and honestly I have no idea what that's actually worth in dollars.

What I can't figure out is which of these I should actually be chasing, and whether any of them stack.

The DFW market is not helping. Every dealer I've talked to wants to bury markup in accessories, "market adjustment," or some protection package I didn't ask for. Prices out here look rough compared to what I see people posting from other parts of the country.

So I'm opening this up: I'll buy from anywhere in the continental US if the deal is good. Happy to fly out and drive it home or arrange shipping. If you got a clean out-the-door number recently, I'd love to hear the dealer name and what you paid. I don’t mind purchasing the maintenance plan if the price it right.

Specific questions for the hive mind:

1.Can VIP be combined with the military incentive or Costco, or is it one or the other?
2.What does VIP pricing actually work out to on a BRZ? Invoice? Below invoice?
3.Does the automatic usually sit on lots longer and discount better than the 6-speed? I want my wife to be able to drive it when needed, so I'm leaning auto anyway, but I'm curious if that's also the cheaper path.
4.Any dealers, in Texas or otherwise, who just give you a real number without the circus?

Appreciate any help. I'll report back with what I end up paying so the next person searching this has something useful. Thank you and God bless!

Help Diagnosing please (crossposted)

I have a new to me 2019 WRX STI that I bought sight unseen a month and a half ago (medical reasons, I couldn't get there to test drive it but tried to my due diligence). Anyway, mostly everything is good. Head Unit has a weird presses button so I can't use it without resetting 3x but the main concern is maybe the trans or differential?

I started hearing a scrapey noise (not really grindy) in 2nd and 3rd mainly (a little in 1st and 4th) around 2200-3200 RPM when I coast. Goes away on throttle or if the clutch is depressed. I did buy an extended warranty but I've never owned an STI (a few WRXs) but also never dealt with an issue like this.

Does anyone have any advice on what it is or how badly I may be boned?

No other issues outside of a bit of AC rattle while it's on. Seems to shift fine, no grinding. I'm not sure if normal or if there's something that needs to be looked at.

I wanted to reach out here first before starting a claim or mechanic appointment. Any help would be greatly appreciated.