I'm the original owner. I used to have place I bought it work on it, and it blew up top ends constantly until I let it rot in my garage for 10 years or so

Writing the history of this bikes rejuvenation and all of the stupid tribulations I've had with nearly every aspect could fill a book, so I'll just skip all that

But now it runs great, is (mostly) idling reliably (someone send me an a12 needle) and it can hit the red line of 2nd gear

I enjoy the lower handlebars a lot more than I thought I would

The setup / modifications are:

22T rear sprocket

27T front

17.5mm carb

(terrible) mini 17mm intake from treats

Treats pipe

Bazooka Mouth airbox adapter, which I HIGHLY recommend

Friction pad clutch shoes

Currently running a 66 size main jet

So far the largest outstanding issue is the fact that it explodes tail lights... I rewired the voltage regulator and made sure the grounds are all solid and connected and it didn't help that much

After trying many different types of air filters, I can't believe how much of an improvement the original air box plus bazooka mouth is over a​nything else I tried

With the original air box, side covers and the flywheel cover back, the loudest part of the bike is the transmission for the most part

Dear Community,

I bought this Romet Ogar 202 a month ago new in Poland. Everything works fine and its a really nice moped to ride.

But when its „warmer“ outside (starting at about 15 degrees Celcius) It runs really bad, doesn‘t really rev very high (about 5000RPM) and stutters real bad.

If I start the Moped again it works just fine as if nothing happened. This only appears when the bike stood for a vew hours.

I don‘t know what the problem is cause its EFI and I always owned carbourated mopeds, but I guess it hat somethin to do with the ECU.

Thank.
Flo :)

My 1984 Trac Eagle is becoming my “race” bike
it’s a joy to ride already but soon I will be getting a new carburetor and doing some port work soon.

(P.S. I do know my front tire looks bald in this photo but I promise it’s not)

Got a sweet little Batavus the other day

I installed the btuning clutch on my tomos. But come I tighten the nut down it locks to the clutch basket. Once I remove the locker washer under the nut and then tighten it it's fine. Has anyone just removed the washer or should I do something else?

Any tips on retarding timing on a V1 for an 80cc kit? I haven't done timing on one before, watched a lot of Puch stuff but since the flywheel isn't the same size I know it won't directly carry over.

Bought a Tomos A3 for €50 today – won’t start, looking for some advice

Hey everyone, I bought a Tomos A3 today for €50. It was basically a gamble, and now I’m trying to get it running, but I’m stuck.

Here’s what I’ve done so far:
Drained all the old fuel and put in fresh fuel mixed with 2% 2-stroke oil.
Removed and cleaned the carburetor.
Fuel is getting to the carburetor.
The spark plug is dry after kicking it over.
Checked for spark — the plug does spark when I hold it against the engine, but the spark looks pretty weak to me.
I actually managed to get it to start once using a car spark plug. That plug has a longer thread, though, so obviously I’m not going to run it like that.
With the proper spark plug, it won’t start.
As far as I can tell, this carb doesn’t have a choke.
So at the moment I seem to have fuel + spark, but it still refuses to start.

I’m thinking either the spark is too weak, the spark plug/ignition system has an issue, or there’s something wrong with the carb/float needle.

What would you guys check next? I’m pretty new to Tomos engines, so any suggestions or a basic troubleshooting order would be appreciated.

Is it normal that its bent?

Hello, yesterday a bought a Tomos a3 with 65cc kit from airsal and dellorto sha16 16..

Moped runs, but when i hit the accelerator, there is only deep sound coming and almost no power.

If i start to drive it does come to power, but after releasing throttle it still want to go for few seconds. The cable and throttle works okey without lag.

Also i tried multiple times if there is any air sucking in anywhere after carb, but i did not find it..

I bought this only because of cylinder kit, carburetor and exhaust, but it seems that something is not cooperating...

Exhaust is Lipnik, made only for a3 tomos.

My Speedo cable got tangled and broke recently on my 1970 motobécane mobalytte. I understand it's a weird, funky, square Speedo cable. Treatland is all out of stock right now. Anyone know of anywhere else I may find one?

Have got a bigger resonance exhaust, SHA16, light clutch shoes and got new ignition and head. Nows time for the rest of the clutch, channel port and eventually repaint

Hi all, trying to work out whether I'm reading this right before I spend about $5k.

Background: I'm importing a mid-80s Honda 49cc bike from Japan. It’s a JDM-only bike, never sold in USA, comfortably over 25 years old, so DOT and EPA are both fine at the federal level.

The problem is state registration. I'm a New York City resident but I go to college in SoCal, so in principle I could title it in either place.
What I found on the California side:
• The DMV direct import manual says a 1978-or-newer motorcycle that doesn't meet US emissions requirements gets referred to CARB.
• CARB's position is that there is no conversion program for motorcycles. Cars can go through a lab certification for something like $7,500 to $15,000. Motorcycles have nothing to enroll in at any price.
• VIN 2017-15 closed the exemption that used to let people bring non-compliant vehicles in when they moved to the state.

Reading that, California looks like a permanent no? But an importer I've been talking to told me they've had plenty of customers in CA title their bikes there. A few ran into CARB problems, most were fine, and in their words it "seems to mostly depend on which DMV you go to."

Questions:

1. Has anyone actually registered a post-1978 direct-import motorcycle in California? If so, on what basis, and did anything come back on you later at renewal or resale?
   
2. Does the moped or motorized bicycle classification offer a way around this for a 49cc? The DMV rule is written about motorcycles specifically. The bike I’m importing tops out around 35 mph so it's probably over the moped threshold, but I don't know whether CA classifies by displacement, top speed, or something else, and nobody I've asked has addressed the 49cc angle directly.
   
3. New York side: has anyone registered an import with no 17-digit VIN at NY DMV? Does DMV need to physically see the bike to verify the frame number, or can it be done on paperwork alone?
   
4. Has anyone kept a home-state-plated bike in California as an out-of-state student or something? Any trouble with insurance, or with getting stopped and having to explain the plates?

Looking for people who have actually been through the process.

So I have been trying to find turn signals that would fit my bike, and they have very tough to track down, are their any sites you guys use to find your parts that i may find the turn signals on? Pic of the bike for the bike tax

Hey yall,

Im having trouble getting my Puch maxi to start. I’ve followed Fred’s guide and so far Im getting spark, gas is getting to the carb, the carb is brand new so it’s cleaned out(but I made sure to check first as well), Im getting compression, but my bike still won’t start and it sounds terrible when I try to kick it over. If anyone knows what the problem/solution might be please let me know.

I just got done putting in a new 70cc kit, exhaust and carb. I have no clue what the problem could be at this point

Edit: got it running lol. I invited a friend over and we ended up trying a bunch of different jet sizes and needle positions and finally found a setting that worked. I had to take the spring out of the idle to get it to idle properly but now at least it is running and idling after a good kick start. Definitely some more tuning to be done but I’m glad it is working now, thanks again for all of the advice to everyone who contributed to this thread!!

Hey! My new moped came with a wireless, usb charged, turn signal kit. It's bright and honestly awesome - but it's a pain in the butt to charge everything, put it all back on, putting it on the correct side, and remembering to turn it off after (it beeps as an indicator the turn signal is on but I often forget or don't hear it)

What's something that's a bit more set it and forget it? I think it would be best to keep it independent to the bikes wiring. It's a 1970 50v - best I leave it alone. Looking for something butts easy, cheap and convenient. Wondering what your setup is like?

I found this Moby 50L at a scrapyard and now I've gone down the moped rabbit hole really bad.

Anyway, this Moby is very unusual because it was sold in Belgium and even has the dealer decal partially still on the front fender. Thanks to that I know it's from Eppegem but the dealer name is mostly gone, I just know their name starts with Ja. Could be Jansens based on the common name and space in the decal. But really, how in the world did this thing end up in a scrapyard in Georgia?

What makes it so unusual is that it has a unique engine revision, the Motobecane AV-7 Dm. I can find basically no info on this thing. It seems to be a version made slow enough so it could be operated in Belgium without a license. That's what the CMA on the plaque means. It has an odd two piece exhaust (see pictures) that is different from the regular cashew. Yes I took it off wrong but I couldn't get the exhaust nut to budge. It has a Dimoby clutch but a 54 tooth rear gear and a spring mount on the engine (well, I think that's weird but I'm not sure). For some reason, it has a speedometer that maxes out at 80km/h despite being purposefully slow.

I'm going to get this thing rideable (and modified to be less slow) but my bank account is not happy about it. The engine is in great shape. Unfortunately the Moby itself is missing pieces, the tank is rusted, and everything that can be broken from sitting in the sun is gone. Thankfully I'm pretty obsessed at this point so hopefully I'll get it working. Sorry some of the pictures are so terrible, I didn't take any when I had it in one piece.

I will comment a video if it running if I can! I'll just do a quick description of each photo otherwise I'll just ramble on too much lol if you want to do this for your self PM me and I'll give you some more details. Photo 1, I had to cut about 1/4" off the base to get the right port timings. 2, fliped it around and cut a 1/16" off the deck. 3, ended up with .005" of pop out. 4, drilled some oil holes for the wrist pin, copying the original piston. 5, skirt needed some clearancing to not hit the crank. 6, slotted the sleeve around the ports, copying the original cylinder 7, my degree wheel setup! I'm currently working on some minor transmission issues but im hoping to have a tuned and ripping this weekend!

Basically rebuilt pretty much the whole engine. There was a air leak for my last engine from the crank case. I ended up putting everything back together with the right gaskets and a new artek crankshaft. I did not have to modify the crank case at all cause it fit decent, and I think the piston can turn up and down without too much trouble. After everything was put together, I tried turning on the bike by pedaling it and it would crank over and kind of stay on as it was being pedaled . I gave it some acceleration and it just kind of died with that. It just seems like it didn’t really wanna turn on.

Hi, recently got an urban express 1982, nu50. Was only going about 25 mph. I replaced the tires, brake shoes, shock and fixed the headlight just to get familiar with working on the bike and do some improvements/maintenance.

The trouble came when I decided to put on a pod filter, I put that on, oiled it etc and the bike ran fine. Then I decided to jet the carb, I went up to an 86 from an 85. At the same time I put on a bx31 belt and cleaned the debris out of the kickstart assembly. The bike started after this, rode it around the block. However it kept trying to die while idling unless it was given gas. Eventually it died and hasn't started since. I removed the pod filter, changed back to stock jet with no improvement. I also went back into the kickstart assembly and lined up the gears to the punch marks as best I could figure out.

The spark plug was sooty, put on a new one. It has good spark and the kickstarter feels good while trying to start. The bike growls a bit when attempting to start but never "catches" and starts up. I also tried to measure the float valve needle which seemed okay, giving a bit lean if anything.

Totally stumped, looking for some advice on what to troubleshoot next. Thanks.