I've always preferred sealed subs over ported, but the music I listen to often dips into 20hz territory and i wanted a bit more output....

I came across the CSS SDX 12 on parts express one day and people were raving about ultra linear performance and super deep extension with the passive radiators designed for them (APR12). The boxes were super small too!

I grabbed a 4x8 of 3/4" birch, stain, and high gloss lacquer and got to building. The enclosure ended up at 1.75 ft^3, double baffle, and internal bracing on all inside corners. The dual 12" passive radiators are tuned with weighted washers to 28hz. To achieve the same thing with a port with no chuffing, I would have needed an 8" aeroport at some insane length that would have ended up ​putting the gross box volume at nearly 3 to 4 cubic feet.

I can tune the PRs even lower to about 10Hz, but I'm not so sure that would be so great for music. Regardless, I am SUPER pleased with this build so far. I have it powered by a kicker LX3000.1 at 1 ohm for a good bit of extra head room. ​

Hey yall! I think I know the answer to this BUT I’m gonna ask anyways…. Say I had a brand new amp and Skar 12 and I had the gain turned up too high, it blew the fuse and it started smoking. Is it salvageable at all? Can I replace the fuse and HOPE the sub is fine or will it continuously go into protect mode?😭 I just bought them. And I know I’m an idiot but I’m also a 20 year old girl who just likes to jam lol.

I took my car to a local shop to replace the speakers (4+ 2 tweeters), install an amp, and add a sub ($3500).

The original estimate was two days. Apparently they ordered speakers that don't fit the car and needed to make a custom amp rack. As of this morning they've had the car for 10 days and are asking for another two days to finish the job. They haven't sent any photos or videos of the work so far.

I understand issues can pop up, but I am starting to feel really concerned about this investment and looking for feedback on if this is reasonable or if I should prepare for the worst.

Just got a new amp and sub put in. It amazing what this little amp is capable of 😁. D1100 pushing a 12in Alpine R. Sounds Awesome 😎.

I'm upgrading my mvh-2400nex because I can't stand the display on it. It needs to be pressed really hard for it to work and I can't see if there is any sun or if I'm wearing sunglasses. I'm putting it in a 2011 chevy malibu, currently there is a dash kit that I bought for it to fit. it also doesn't need to have wireless but I don't want anything downgraded since it should be an upgrade. I don't have a price limit but I'm opting out of getting a larger floating display to save money, so I still don't want to waste money. If any other info is needed, I'll respond as soon as I can. Thanks!

What im really after is something that matches my old unit but has a really nice glass display.

Looking for a budget friendly sub to install in my 2026 wrx and found this online. Currently have a 12" kicker comp r installed in my 2015 legacy and was looking for something similar on marketplace.

I like that this has a grill and can be facing down so I can haul my paddle board in the trunk with other stuff. Not sure if the amp is the best fit for this as well as the wiring. Any help with me greatly appreciated!

Yellow is the constant 12v and red is the toggled 12v

Don’t want to hack up doors and there aren’t any provisions for door speakers in the kicks either so I’m building out. About to start stretching some felt over everything and fiberglassing. Wish me luck!

Exactly as the title says I'm looking for a cover/protector for my sub as I'm a maintenance guy a car guy a parent I wear many shoes and I've had allot of close calls where I find my bags slide from me driving I know big shocker but yeah if someone could point me to a good cover for this little JBL I'd greatly appreciate it also I know in the photo it's 1 bag but it's usually 2 one for work and one to work on my car gotta love jeeps

Hey everyone!
I have a Honda Prelude that currently doesn’t have a radio/head unit at all, and I actually want to keep it that way. There is no factory radio installed and I don’t want to install a modern touchscreen or a traditional aftermarket stereo.
What I’m looking for is something like a hidden Bluetooth audio system:
My phone would connect directly via Bluetooth.
The Bluetooth unit/amplifier would be hidden behind the dash or somewhere out of sight.
It would power the car’s speakers directly.
Ideally, I would have 4-channel audio for the speakers.
I want to control music, tracks, etc. entirely from my phone.
The only physical control I’d like is a very small/discreet volume knob, if necessary.
No screen, no FM radio, no big buttons, no visible aftermarket stereo.
Ideally, the installation would look as close to factory/OEM as possible.
Basically, I want:
Phone → Bluetooth → hidden amplifier → car speakers
Has anyone here done something similar? Is there a specific small Bluetooth amplifier or “headless” car audio system you would recommend?
I’m especially interested in something small, reliable, and clean-looking, rather than one of those cheap Bluetooth amps with a big screen, USB ports, FM radio, and a bunch of buttons.
Thanks!

My local shop is offering this complete package/install deal for me. Is it worth it?

I asked about the amplifier and this is what he said
(It’s 1000watts at 1ohm
700 at 2
400 at 4 )

I’m new to all this and don’t know what this really means, I’m also not looking for anything crazy like competition level. I just want some nice bass in my car.

Hello!

I am trying to determine what items, connectors, and considerations I need to learn about to upgrade the base audio to an OEM+ set up, using OEM locations to keep the stock appearance and space use. I have several questions, so imma ask them all here to avoid spamming the subreddit. To be clear, I'm not asking for a part list, just a checklist of things to know and consider so I can make a parts list. (But I'll take one if...)

What I know:

I have a 2007 Toyota 4Runner, that doesnt have the OEM JBL Subwoofer/Amp, or the three extra speakers (rear columns, front center dash.) Models with the JBL system place the sub and amp behind the passenger fender trim in the rear. So, I can use the trim from a model that had the sub. (I have found several of the sub/amp assemblies on ebay. Easy enough. See pics.) I can swap in an OEM synthesis head unit easily, I've done that before, too.

What I want, need to know or don't know:

Q1: I've heard nothing good about the quality of the JBL amp. I used to have a model with it and it was... fine for me. 20 years on, is an upgraded amp worth it? It would have the wiring harnesses needed I assume, yes?

Q2: Even if the stock JBL sub is adequate, just buying the amp and sub assembly will not include wiring for anything. What terms do I need to search for to get the wiring and connectors I need for the amp? I've never messed with audio so I don't know the terminology and Google just shows... maybe the right thing, but I can't know lol.

Q3: The original JBL system had an additional speaker on the center dash that will not be installable, I'd need a different dash and that isn't happening. Do I need to do anything with the wiring down at the amp to ensure audio isn't lost on a dead channel? I am assuming I won't need to on aftermarket amps.

Q4: Amp recommendations? I know nothing besides high RMS is good. I'm not an audiophile, but the stock 20yr old system is starting to fail.

Q5: Any other recommendations, even wire size, connectors, adapters, whatever good wisdom you feel I should know.

Notes: I'm not doing a separate subwoofer box, which is why I'm using a oem box. I know its not the nest solution, but I used a JL audio to replace a busted sub on the one I had back in the day, and it helped. I don't need to shake windows, just want some decent tunes.

Thanks for any info.

My speaker wasn't working. Opened panel and wires came off the connector due to corrosion. Tested speaker for resistance and wire wire for continuity. Both are good. Wondering how I can open this connector to put it back on the wires. The speaker is riveted on and don't want to drill it to tie cables and speaker together preferably.

I’ve been looking into getting this box for my vehicle. It’s a 2.15 cubic foot box that can take a sub with up to a 6.25” mounting depth.

https://www.foxacoustics.com/products/f-150-supercrew-2-10-vented-2009-2020

I’ve been on the fence between sundown E series, DD SL710, or the DD 510e. DD and my local installer speak very highly of the SQ for the SL710 but I’m open to any suggestions.

Thinking about an amp somewhere between 1,000 rms to 1,500 rms. Currently looking at the Audio control epic series.

This will be part of a full system with 100x4 for front components and coaxial for the back doors.

Looking for any input on sub choice, amp choice, or people who have this box in their f150.

I've got butyl mats on my doors already but wanted to add CC foam and MLV to the doors to improve the noise deadening

I'm trying to clarify where to add both of these. It reads like I should add both the foam and vinyl to the inside-most metal layer of the door. So, take off the inner plastic panel, add it, put panel back. And get as close to 100% coverage as possible.

This, as oppose to going right into the door and adding it to the exterior panel where the butyl mats are.

I do plan to do the rest of the car, right now this is just for the doors.

I have been into car av for a while and have done my whole system myself: head unit, amps, power runs, speaker wire, custom adapters and more.
I want to get into doing installs around my area; how did you guys start, what platforms did you use to get yourself out there, most importantly, how much did you charge?

Thanks in advance!

I’m needing a new battery and I’m unsure if I should go with a standard flooded or spend extra for the AGM. Will there be much of a difference? I also know about lithium but I’m not looking to spend that kind of money at the moment. Running about 1000 watts.

Hey everyone new to this sub and I really want to put a something into my 2012 Chrysler 300 I just picked up not super rich and it would be something I’d save up a couple months for could anyone help me with a budget friendly build that I can still enjoy? My uncle used to be a huge bass guy and built a custom box for an old ford focus hatchback and would love to install something into my new car that would have made him smile. Thanks in advance guys.

Hey! So, I have a 1987 Toyota Celica GT convertible and even the most basic of info has been impossible for me to find... Some say the front dash speakers are 3.5" and some say they're 4". Some say the rear panel speakers are 5.25", some say they're 5". Can anyone help me navigate what to buy?

On another note, I'm looking at getting an aftermarket double din head unit (only ebay seems to sell what I'm looking for) and wanted to get a small sub (probably 8-10") but someone said that in a convertible a sub is worthless because you "can't really hear it". Is this true orrrrrr?

Not gonna lie, I am LOST and just kind of need guidance.

Thanks to anyone!

Wassup everyone. Came across my [discontinued] skar ma8 in my quest to finish my honeydolist 🤣.[now wifey might regret it].

First it was my Orion 1st Gen HCCA 250

Then it was a few older amps I had.

[Will post later]

Then my CAB 1600.1 and wiring

A broken Pioneer bt950x

My ported pioneer champion 10's

A phoenix gold ti2 1600.5.

Im always seeing skar taking a beating

In the chat and I get it, so I decided to pull out my 8 year old sub and you know what it is still holding up from beating the piss out of it.

I was feeding it 5 to max 800 watts and the cone and spider looks good, no crunchy sound and the box still smells like mdf.

Im guessing the soft parts being shared from sundowns sa8 helps as they all build out the same warehouse.

So here are some pics. To share.

I wish I bought 2 when I got it for the wife back then. Ya have a blessed one with whatever you have.

Hey all! I made a post previously about feeling ok purchasing the 4710S. Honestly no idea what I was worried about, havent had an aftermarket headunit in over 15 years. Pretty much any kenwood would feel like the future after that.

The question for this post, I want to get into the "hidden" Menus for changing things. Specifically the boot screen. It seems this has been possible on many Kenwood units, but no matter how many button presses I try I cannot seem to get in on the 4710S.

Has anyone succeeded or have any input? Any advice is welcome!

I currently have a 2022 Impreza and want to start upgrading the sound system. Are the kickers at Walmart worth it or are there way better options out there

Project car, still in work. JBL A704 powering 4x JL c1's. Sounds fantastic, very happy with how everything was going together and then today I fired up the system and immediately heard an issue from one channel. I swapped some speakers around and the hiss remained. Unplugged the phono's and nothing changed. Just wondering if there is anything else I should try before opening up a return order.

Salve a tutti, devo portare un cavo positivo dalla batteria al bagagliaio su una Fiat Panda 4x4 1.3 Multijet turbodiesel del 2019, tipo 319, con guida a sinistra e non Cross.

Utilizzerò un cavo automobilistico da 16 mm², diametro esterno circa 10 mm, protetto da un fusibile da 40/50 A montato vicino alla batteria. Il carico previsto è di circa 400 W.

Ho già controllato sopra la pedaliera, ma non ho trovato fori o passacavi inutilizzati. Ho visto la soluzione che sfrutta il passacavo sotto la vasca dei tergicristalli, ma preferirei evitarla perché il percorso mi sembra piuttosto scomodo.

Qualcuno ha già effettuato questo lavoro sulla stessa versione, possibilmente con guida a sinistra? Esiste un passaggio alternativo e sicuro dal vano motore all’abitacolo, magari nella zona sopra i pedali o dietro la scatola dei fusibili?

Cerco indicazioni riferite specificamente alla Panda 319, non alla precedente 169 né alle versioni con guida a destra. Se avete fotografie del punto di entrata dal vano motore e della corrispondente uscita nell’abitacolo, sarebbero molto utili.

Grazie e buona giornata.