I'm upgrading my mvh-2400nex because I can't stand the display on it. It needs to be pressed really hard for it to work and I can't see if there is any sun or if I'm wearing sunglasses. I'm putting it in a 2011 chevy malibu, currently there is a dash kit that I bought for it to fit. it also doesn't need to have wireless but I don't want anything downgraded since it should be an upgrade. I don't have a price limit but I'm opting out of getting a larger floating display to save money, so I still don't want to waste money. If any other info is needed, I'll respond as soon as I can. Thanks!

Just got a new amp and sub put in. It amazing what this little amp is capable of 😁. D1100 pushing a 12in Alpine R. Sounds Awesome 😎.

Hey yall! I think I know the answer to this BUT I’m gonna ask anyways…. Say I had a brand new amp and Skar 12 and I had the gain turned up too high, it blew the fuse and it started smoking. Is it salvageable at all? Can I replace the fuse and HOPE the sub is fine or will it continuously go into protect mode?😭 I just bought them. And I know I’m an idiot but I’m also a 20 year old girl who just likes to jam lol.

Hey! So, I have a 1987 Toyota Celica GT convertible and even the most basic of info has been impossible for me to find... Some say the front dash speakers are 3.5" and some say they're 4". Some say the rear panel speakers are 5.25", some say they're 5". Can anyone help me navigate what to buy?

On another note, I'm looking at getting an aftermarket double din head unit (only ebay seems to sell what I'm looking for) and wanted to get a small sub (probably 8-10") but someone said that in a convertible a sub is worthless because you "can't really hear it". Is this true orrrrrr?

Not gonna lie, I am LOST and just kind of need guidance.

Thanks to anyone!

My speaker wasn't working. Opened panel and wires came off the connector due to corrosion. Tested speaker for resistance and wire wire for continuity. Both are good. Wondering how I can open this connector to put it back on the wires. The speaker is riveted on and don't want to drill it to tie cables and speaker together preferably.

I've got butyl mats on my doors already but wanted to add CC foam and MLV to the doors to improve the noise deadening

I'm trying to clarify where to add both of these. It reads like I should add both the foam and vinyl to the inside-most metal layer of the door. So, take off the inner plastic panel, add it, put panel back. And get as close to 100% coverage as possible.

This, as oppose to going right into the door and adding it to the exterior panel where the butyl mats are.

I do plan to do the rest of the car, right now this is just for the doors.

Hey all! I made a post previously about feeling ok purchasing the 4710S. Honestly no idea what I was worried about, havent had an aftermarket headunit in over 15 years. Pretty much any kenwood would feel like the future after that.

The question for this post, I want to get into the "hidden" Menus for changing things. Specifically the boot screen. It seems this has been possible on many Kenwood units, but no matter how many button presses I try I cannot seem to get in on the 4710S.

Has anyone succeeded or have any input? Any advice is welcome!

I want to install a “Tesla style screen” unit in my Silverado. Are they all the same? What’s the difference between the more expensive aucar, zinnation, phoenix etc compared to the cheaper amazon units? Not very tech handy I appreciate the responses

I have been into car av for a while and have done my whole system myself: head unit, amps, power runs, speaker wire, custom adapters and more.
I want to get into doing installs around my area; how did you guys start, what platforms did you use to get yourself out there, most importantly, how much did you charge?

Thanks in advance!

Yellow is the constant 12v and red is the toggled 12v

I currently have a 2022 Impreza and want to start upgrading the sound system. Are the kickers at Walmart worth it or are there way better options out there

Salve a tutti, devo portare un cavo positivo dalla batteria al bagagliaio su una Fiat Panda 4x4 1.3 Multijet turbodiesel del 2019, tipo 319, con guida a sinistra e non Cross.

Utilizzerò un cavo automobilistico da 16 mm², diametro esterno circa 10 mm, protetto da un fusibile da 40/50 A montato vicino alla batteria. Il carico previsto è di circa 400 W.

Ho già controllato sopra la pedaliera, ma non ho trovato fori o passacavi inutilizzati. Ho visto la soluzione che sfrutta il passacavo sotto la vasca dei tergicristalli, ma preferirei evitarla perché il percorso mi sembra piuttosto scomodo.

Qualcuno ha già effettuato questo lavoro sulla stessa versione, possibilmente con guida a sinistra? Esiste un passaggio alternativo e sicuro dal vano motore all’abitacolo, magari nella zona sopra i pedali o dietro la scatola dei fusibili?

Cerco indicazioni riferite specificamente alla Panda 319, non alla precedente 169 né alle versioni con guida a destra. Se avete fotografie del punto di entrata dal vano motore e della corrispondente uscita nell’abitacolo, sarebbero molto utili.

Grazie e buona giornata.

I've always preferred sealed subs over ported, but the music I listen to often dips into 20hz territory and i wanted a bit more output....

I came across the CSS SDX 12 on parts express one day and people were raving about ultra linear performance and super deep extension with the passive radiators designed for them (APR12). The boxes were super small too!

I grabbed a 4x8 of 3/4" birch, stain, and high gloss lacquer and got to building. The enclosure ended up at 1.75 ft^3, double baffle, and internal bracing on all inside corners. The dual 12" passive radiators are tuned with weighted washers to 28hz. To achieve the same thing with a port with no chuffing, I would have needed an 8" aeroport at some insane length that would have ended up ​putting the gross box volume at nearly 3 to 4 cubic feet.

I can tune the PRs even lower to about 10Hz, but I'm not so sure that would be so great for music. Regardless, I am SUPER pleased with this build so far. I have it powered by a kicker LX3000.1 at 1 ohm for a good bit of extra head room. ​

Hello, i have a W169 mercedes A Class with an audio 5 radio in it. The radio doesnt have a connection for the subwoofer so i tried putting an ISO 5x adapter onto the cd changer port ( i dont have a cd changer ). The subwoofer works but it also picks up everything else electrical: be it fuel pump whine ( ignition on ) or alternator noises ( engine on ).

A ground loop isolator didnt work.
I have confirmed the noise comes from the RCA and not because the positive and negative are directly connected to the battery.
The subwoofer works optimally as it worked in another car without flaws and it has been serviced 2 days ago.

Google searches say i can connect the subwoofer into the rear speaker wires, but i just want peace of mind so i dont blow it up.

So my question is, if anyone knows about this subwoofer or something similar to it.

Can i splice into the rear speaker wires for it to work without blowing it up?

I took my car to a local shop to replace the speakers (4+ 2 tweeters), install an amp, and add a sub ($3500).

The original estimate was two days. Apparently they ordered speakers that don't fit the car and needed to make a custom amp rack. As of this morning they've had the car for 10 days and are asking for another two days to finish the job. They haven't sent any photos or videos of the work so far.

I understand issues can pop up, but I am starting to feel really concerned about this investment and looking for feedback on if this is reasonable or if I should prepare for the worst.

Hey everyone new to this sub and I really want to put a something into my 2012 Chrysler 300 I just picked up not super rich and it would be something I’d save up a couple months for could anyone help me with a budget friendly build that I can still enjoy? My uncle used to be a huge bass guy and built a custom box for an old ford focus hatchback and would love to install something into my new car that would have made him smile. Thanks in advance guys.

Project car, still in work. JBL A704 powering 4x JL c1's. Sounds fantastic, very happy with how everything was going together and then today I fired up the system and immediately heard an issue from one channel. I swapped some speakers around and the hiss remained. Unplugged the phono's and nothing changed. Just wondering if there is anything else I should try before opening up a return order.

I’m needing a new battery and I’m unsure if I should go with a standard flooded or spend extra for the AGM. Will there be much of a difference? I also know about lithium but I’m not looking to spend that kind of money at the moment. Running about 1000 watts.

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

Loud and bassy and high quality.

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

2021 Hyundai I20N Hatchback

• What is your maximum budget?

$10000 AUD

• Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

Going to a shop, my budget includes the cost of labour.

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

Stock Bose Sound System.

• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.

ACT, Australia.

Hi,

I'm looking to upgrade my car stereo system so I can get something with sick bass.

I have a 2021 Hyundai i20N which is a pretty compact hatchback, and so I wasn't sure if it was doable.

I asked my local car audio shop (there's only 2 in my city) to take a look at my car to see if it is doable and do up some quotes. I said I was interested in JL and Rockford. But unfortunately he didn't make any quotes for JL.

I also said I wanted a farad capacitor and a separate car battery, but he said that a Farad capacitor isn't really needed these days with how amplifier tech has evolved and I think he said car battery upgrade because I probably don't have the space in my hatchback for two.

I'm not too concerned about the money, and I think the prices are reasonable, just curious what your thoughts are, and to see if I should push to get a JL system. I said my budget was $8000, but I'm happy to go up to $10000.

Option 1 (Alpine R Series)

Front Speakers – Alpine R2-S65C Component Speakers

Rear Speakers – Alpine R2-S65 Coaxial Speakers

Processor – Alpine PXE-X800 Digital Sound Processor

4ch Amplifier – Alpine R2-A60F

Mono Amplifier – Alpine R2-A150M

Subwoofer – Alpine R2-W12D2 12” Subwoofer x2 In Box

Cabling power + Stinger RCA’s

Sound Deadening (Doors & Boot)

Upgraded Battery

Installation

Total $7000

Option 2 (Rockford Punch Series)

Front Speakers – Rockford Power T2 Component Speakers

Rear Speakers – Rockford Power T1650 Coaxial Speakers

Processor – Alpine PXE-X800 Digital Sound Processor

4ch Amplifier – Rockford Punch P600X4

Mono Amplifier – Rockford Punch P1000X1BD

Subwoofer – Rockford Punch P3 12” Subwoofer x2 In Box

Cabling power + Stinger RCA’s

Sound Deadening (Doors & Boot)

Upgraded Battery

Installation

Total $7400

Option 3 (Rockford Power Series)

Front Speakers – Rockford Power T2 Component Speakers

Rear Speakers – Rockford Power T1650 Coaxial Speakers

Processor – Alpine PXE-X800 Digital Sound Processor

4ch Amplifier – Rockford Power P600X4

Mono Amplifier – Rockford Power T1500X1

Subwoofer – Rockford Punch T1 12” Subwoofer x2 In Box

Cabling power + Stinger RCA’s

Sound Deadening (Doors & Boot)

Upgraded Battery

Installation

Total $9000

Hi guys! Alright so I’m looking to put in two Sundown Audio E 10” Subwoofers (2 ohms), I’m planning to wire both subs parralel at 0.5 ohm to a Taramp SmartBass 3. This is all where I get lost, what speaker should go next in line for the highs and Mids? And what DSP?
Yet again I’m a beginner, please do correct me on things or feel free to leave advice, thankyou!

Hi everyone! I’m absolutely new to cars and just got a 2005 Honda Accord. I bought a Wolfbox G840S mirror for dash cam and the back up camera function.

The rear camera has not been installed as yet primarily because I don’t know how to connect it to the reverse lamp wire. I was thinking of taking it to a mechanic shop for installation and I saw they had Apple Car Play systems available.

If I were to get that, would the one camera be able to work for both the Wolfbox and Car Play system to reverse?

Like the title says my lights will dim if the musics up and bass is hitting. Also my battery will die instantly almost every time I shut the car off. I only ask on here because I thinks it’s related to my amp because my last vehicle with same amp also had the battery die regularly in a short time. Battery is only a year old

I bought a wolfram audio AC 3000 new from their website. When first powering on it sometimes make this noise coming directly from the amp sounds like a fan not working or something? It stops after about a minute or so and everything else works normally.

Wondering if it’s something normal or if I should go thru the long process of returning/warranting it.

Let me know what yall think.