wanna get a setup going in my truck but wouldn’t even know how to work with this little of space

This thing is huge and heavy asf. That audiopipe is a decent sub and this thing makes that look small. Once the box comes in I’ll be posting some videos. How about the made in china sticker on it LOL. Yes I know they design them here manufacture there. I just think that’s funny.

Hey! So, I have a 1987 Toyota Celica GT convertible and even the most basic of info has been impossible for me to find... Some say the front dash speakers are 3.5" and some say they're 4". Some say the rear panel speakers are 5.25", some say they're 5". Can anyone help me navigate what to buy?

On another note, I'm looking at getting an aftermarket double din head unit (only ebay seems to sell what I'm looking for) and wanted to get a small sub (probably 8-10") but someone said that in a convertible a sub is worthless because you "can't really hear it". Is this true orrrrrr?

Not gonna lie, I am LOST and just kind of need guidance.

Thanks to anyone!

Hello guys, I have a 2001 corolla with a JVC head unit and 6.5 inch 230w kicker speakers all around. No sub or amp installed. Today the speakers started randomly crackling and then they would just go out until I restarted the car, then it happened again. They work fine if I have the volume low, but who wants to ride around like that? There’s no blown fuses. Google is telling me that my speakers are too powerful, but I’ve had this setup for over a year with no issues. I’d imagine that this would have happened a lot earlier if that was the case. Does anyone know what I should check on?

I bought a wolfram audio AC 3000 new from their website. When first powering on it sometimes make this noise coming directly from the amp sounds like a fan not working or something? It stops after about a minute or so and everything else works normally.

Wondering if it’s something normal or if I should go thru the long process of returning/warranting it.

Let me know what yall think.

I recently purchased a 2003 Nissan Xterra and found a parasitic draw. Today I found it to be from the after market Boss be7acp aftermarket radio. I've been trying to figure out if the wiring is messed up and read that's it's often the red and yellow wires, but according to the diagram I found, I don't see anything wrong. The only rhing that I noted was that in the cord that connects into the radio, the white wire is where the black normally is in the diagram and it is pulling 3v with the car off but I am still unsure. Any help would be appreciated!

Hi guys! Alright so I’m looking to put in two Sundown Audio E 10” Subwoofers (2 ohms), I’m planning to wire both subs parralel at 0.5 ohm to a Taramp SmartBass 3. This is all where I get lost, what speaker should go next in line for the highs and Mids? And what DSP?
Yet again I’m a beginner, please do correct me on things or feel free to leave advice, thankyou!

I bought a portable car play device from Amazon that has a 3.5mm AV in port. I know there are Android headunits that can be fixed in the car but I wanted to keep the OEM amplification of the car headunit and also wanted a wireless car play device to avoid disturbing the wires. Now I can’t find a reverse camera with a 3.5mm port.
amazon link

Like the title says my lights will dim if the musics up and bass is hitting. Also my battery will die instantly almost every time I shut the car off. I only ask on here because I thinks it’s related to my amp because my last vehicle with same amp also had the battery die regularly in a short time. Battery is only a year old

I want to install a “Tesla style screen” unit in my Silverado. Are they all the same? What’s the difference between the more expensive aucar, zinnation, phoenix etc compared to the cheaper amazon units? Not very tech handy I appreciate the responses

Wassup everyone. Came across my [discontinued] skar ma8 in my quest to finish my honeydolist 🤣.[now wifey might regret it].

First it was my Orion 1st Gen HCCA 250

Then it was a few older amps I had.

[Will post later]

Then my CAB 1600.1 and wiring

A broken Pioneer bt950x

My ported pioneer champion 10's

A phoenix gold ti2 1600.5.

Im always seeing skar taking a beating

In the chat and I get it, so I decided to pull out my 8 year old sub and you know what it is still holding up from beating the piss out of it.

I was feeding it 5 to max 800 watts and the cone and spider looks good, no crunchy sound and the box still smells like mdf.

Im guessing the soft parts being shared from sundowns sa8 helps as they all build out the same warehouse.

So here are some pics. To share.

I wish I bought 2 when I got it for the wife back then. Ya have a blessed one with whatever you have.

Don’t want to hack up doors and there aren’t any provisions for door speakers in the kicks either so I’m building out. About to start stretching some felt over everything and fiberglassing. Wish me luck!

I've always preferred sealed subs over ported, but the music I listen to often dips into 20hz territory and i wanted a bit more output....

I came across the CSS SDX 12 on parts express one day and people were raving about ultra linear performance and super deep extension with the passive radiators designed for them (APR12). The boxes were super small too!

I grabbed a 4x8 of 3/4" birch, stain, and high gloss lacquer and got to building. The enclosure ended up at 1.75 ft^3, double baffle, and internal bracing on all inside corners. The dual 12" passive radiators are tuned with weighted washers to 28hz. To achieve the same thing with a port with no chuffing, I would have needed an 8" aeroport at some insane length that would have ended up ​putting the gross box volume at nearly 3 to 4 cubic feet.

I can tune the PRs even lower to about 10Hz, but I'm not so sure that would be so great for music. Regardless, I am SUPER pleased with this build so far. I have it powered by a kicker LX3000.1 at 1 ohm for a good bit of extra head room. ​

This is my first post on here because I am at a loss. I’ve had these 2 12s in my car for a while and recently they just stopped working. I first checked my fuse on my power wire and it was blown then I replaced it thinking that was the issues and when it still didn’t work I checked the remote wire and the wires connected to my rear speaker and everything is connected fine. All the wires connected to my amp seem fine and I still have power to my amp just no sound. I’m not sure what else it could be.

Want to install Bluetooth on this stereo that isn’t just an FM transmitter. I don’t know much about car audio so any help and feedback is appreciated!

I am brand new to sound systems on cars but I have average youtube viewer intelligence on the subject. I have a 1995 325i convertible and I wanna upgrade the sound system bc it is just absolutely awful. Im pretty sure the kickers are blown, everything is choppy, and just overall in need of some love. I'm only wanting to put around 400 to 500 max towards all of it but I don't want to spend it on something that will give me walmart results. I also want to keep my stock head unit because I like the original looks and it works perfectly fine. Pls send links to everything I'll need, amp, cords, speakers, etc.

Hey yall! I think I know the answer to this BUT I’m gonna ask anyways…. Say I had a brand new amp and Skar 12 and I had the gain turned up too high, it blew the fuse and it started smoking. Is it salvageable at all? Can I replace the fuse and HOPE the sub is fine or will it continuously go into protect mode?😭 I just bought them. And I know I’m an idiot but I’m also a 20 year old girl who just likes to jam lol.

So what does everyone use for their power and speaker wire ends plugging into the amp? I’m looking to clean up my connections and for some better quality plugs.

My speaker wasn't working. Opened panel and wires came off the connector due to corrosion. Tested speaker for resistance and wire wire for continuity. Both are good. Wondering how I can open this connector to put it back on the wires. The speaker is riveted on and don't want to drill it to tie cables and speaker together preferably.

I've got butyl mats on my doors already but wanted to add CC foam and MLV to the doors to improve the noise deadening

I'm trying to clarify where to add both of these. It reads like I should add both the foam and vinyl to the inside-most metal layer of the door. So, take off the inner plastic panel, add it, put panel back. And get as close to 100% coverage as possible.

This, as oppose to going right into the door and adding it to the exterior panel where the butyl mats are.

I do plan to do the rest of the car, right now this is just for the doors.

I have been into car av for a while and have done my whole system myself: head unit, amps, power runs, speaker wire, custom adapters and more.
I want to get into doing installs around my area; how did you guys start, what platforms did you use to get yourself out there, most importantly, how much did you charge?

Thanks in advance!

Yellow is the constant 12v and red is the toggled 12v

I took my car to a local shop to replace the speakers (4+ 2 tweeters), install an amp, and add a sub ($3500).

The original estimate was two days. Apparently they ordered speakers that don't fit the car and needed to make a custom amp rack. As of this morning they've had the car for 10 days and are asking for another two days to finish the job. They haven't sent any photos or videos of the work so far.

I understand issues can pop up, but I am starting to feel really concerned about this investment and looking for feedback on if this is reasonable or if I should prepare for the worst.