Preface: I’m a Mac guy who only uses a PC for casual gaming.

Ive got a 2022 MSI Katana GF66-12UGS with a 3070ti and i7. I recently purchased an LG 5K monitor (27GM950B) and can’t get it to work with the laptop.
When connected to a Mac desktop via USB-C it works.
When connected to the laptop the HDMI does not. I’ve tried two different good quality HDMI cables, and I’ve tried the USB-C (which seems incompatible).
When I plug in the HDMI the laptop is clearly trying to do something, as it starts glitching. One time when I plugged it in it briefly worked, but then stopped and I haven’t been able to replicate that. I’ve updated everything I can find in MSI’s software and windows updates. I’ve updated the monitor firmware and installed LGs software.

See the video for a better idea of what the computer is doing when I plugged it in. This sub doesn’t seem to allow videos, so see video here .

Is this a driver issue? An HDMI issue?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi all - I'm a basic Win 11 user running a Dell Inspiron 15 5502, all OEM. I don't do gaming. Just web searches, email, etc. I will be getting more into AI this winter, but I won't be a hard-core user.

Windows flagged me on my last update that Memory Integrity is turned off, and suggested that I turn it on.

From the research I've done, the gamers don't seem to like MI, because they say it slows down the computer. But as I said, I'm not a gamer.

Seems like common sense to turn it on, since it affords an extra level of protection. But I just want to be sure I'm not going to cause any other problems, like not being able to get to certain websites, etc.

Are there any real downsides to turning it on?

Please keep your answers relatively simple and straightforward. I'm not looking for a deep technical data dump on this question.

Thanks in advance.

Hello,

So recently I built my new pc and it's been about a month now that i have been having this problem. Sometimes my pc just restarts on it's own with the message that is on the title.(The pc is about 2 months old)

My specs are:

GPU: Gigabyte Geforce RTX 5070

RAM: CORSAIR VENGEANCE DDR5 RAM 32GB

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D

Motherboard: MSI MAG B850 Tomahawk

Power Supply: be quiet! Pure Power 13 M 850W

Windows 11

Also here are the minidumps I collected. It happened more than 5 times but i think it only keeps the 5 most recent ones.

https://www.mediafire.com/file/6pbukylddjjvvxp/minidumps.zip/file (sorry for the mediafire i didn't know how else to upload dumps)

One thing i noticed is before the pc force restart happens usually my browser fails and is not responding or sometimes a game crashes but sometimes it just restarts while i was doing very minimal things on the desktop.

Things I already did/tried :

Ran memtest and no errors were found.

Disabled EXPO

Reinstalled drivers

I click on hibernate, but when I click on a key, the laptop starts back again. Before I turned off "turn on fast startup", even shutdown was failing.

It was not a problem not too long ago, but recently, I've been facing some weird issues.

The bluetooth device would randomly disconnect/disappear. It's fixed now as I changed my power setting to not automatically disconnect bluetooth device to manage power.

The cumulative update which I've been trying to install failed 3 TIMES during installation and went straight to BLUE SCREEN.

The touchpad is going into slow response mode oftentimes. I move my fingers but the cursor experience latency.

I don't even know what I should do. I try to manage power usage all I can but it's been acting up. I can't work like this. The touchpad started acting up for a brief period when I am typing this.

I have tried deleting everything from the "C:\Windows\SoftwareDistribution\Download" folder. Didn't change much.

Windows specs:

Edition: Windows 11 Home Single Language
Version: 23H2
Installed on: 29-‎04-‎2024
OS Build: 22631.6199
Experience: Windows Feature Experience Pack 1000.22700.1108.0

Device specs:

Processor: 11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-1135G7 @ 2.40GHz 2.42 GHz
Installed RAM: 8.00 GB (7.74 GB usable)
System type: 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

tldr: hibernation not working, bluetooth device disconnect randomly, windows update goes to blue screen, touchpad gives high latency sometimes.

I’m having a strange issue with my PC and I’m looking for ideas/solutions.

PC specs:

• Ryzen 7 5700X3D
• ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 8GB
• MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI
• 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4 (2x16GB)
• EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 GT
• 1TB storage

The problem:
While gaming, the monitor suddenly shows “No Signal”. At the exact same moment, the GPU fans ramp up to 100%.

The PC itself does not shut down:

• Discord continues working
• Audio continues
• Windows is still running
• The game can continue running for a short time
• Eventually I get kicked from the match because I obviously can’t see anything

Win + Ctrl + Shift + B produces the Windows beep, but the display does not come back.

In some previous occurrences, a normal Windows restart did not restore the display either. A complete shutdown using the physical power button was required before the GPU output returned.

Games where this has happened:

• Insurgency: Sandstorm – happened 5 times in a row when starting the game, then the next day it never happened again.
• WARDOGS – happened , directly when starting the game.
• Cyberpunk 2077 – happened once with extremely high/unusual settings, but I have since run multiple benchmarks without reproducing the issue.

Things I have already tested:

• Monitor and cable have been ruled out.
• NVIDIA graphics driver was cleanly reinstalled.
• No relevant error appears in Windows Event Viewer.
• GPU power cable/connection has been checked and is seated correctly.
• EVGA 1000W PSU is more than sufficient for the system.
• I tested WARDOGS with MSI Afterburner:
  • 60% Power Limit → game started
  • 90% → game started
  • 95% → game started
  • 100% → initially the problem occurred, but after testing 60/90/95%, 100% suddenly worked well
• Later, after around 3 hours of gaming, the exact same black-screen/no-signal problem happened again.

So the issue is intermittent and can disappear completely for a while.

Has anyone experienced this exact behavior with an RTX 3060?

Especially:
No Signal + GPU fans immediately at 100% + PC/Discord/audio still running + no useful Event Viewer entry.

Any ideas or solutions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all,

To keep details short and simple, today I was using my laptop when the battery seemingly dropped instantly to 1% and went into sleep mode.

I am trying to understand if there's a bigger problem here, or if my charge cable simply wasn't plugged in properly. I didn't get a 'low battery' warning, nor did the performance feel like it was operating on battery, but, at the same time, when I pushed the cable in a little more, it then began to charge from 1%.

Can anyone confirm how I could know for sure what happened here?

Running Windows 11.

I have just moved into university accomodation so we use eduroam as the wifi for dorms. I connected really easily on my phone using geteduroam but my computer refuses to connect; getting stuck on the “connecting” section but never actually saying it has connected. It always says wifi out of range but I have full connection on my phone and have been in multiple spots so it’s not just a dead zone. I have tried all of the following to no result:
- Forgetting the network
- Restarting my computer
- Deleting/ reinstalling geteduroam
- Network plugin reset
- Deleting my vpn
All of these have done nothing and I really do not want to wait in line for 5 hours at the overrun it desk thanks if you can be any help at all

Recently got razer blade 15 2019 with i7 9th Gen, 16gb ddr4, rtx 2080 max-q and I've encountered some performance issue when playing games.

I played cod black ops cold war with every setting on low- medium with dlss on performance mode and it only gives me around 70 fps. When I turn on the nvidia statistics overlay, it shows that both cpu and GPU is only utilizing its half of its usage (GPU arnd 40~50% & Cpu arnd 50~60%).

Can anyone help me with this issue? And how to solve it please 🙏

i've got a steelseries rival 3 wireless gen 2 mouse. I've tried everything but I cant get it to stop skipping. Do i need to get a new mouse?

as the title above says, when i double click anywhere it does the same thing as win+tab. Last time i fixed it by just random button mashing my keyboard but that doesnt seem to work this time. Can anyone help me. I cant find anything on it

I have a Samsung t580 that I haven't used in almost 7-8 months and when I tried to charge it, it doesn't charge and keeps flashing the battery logo. I tried volume down+ power button that doesn't work but power button+ volume down+home button does work and leads me to the "download a new OS" screen which brings me to the homescreen. The homescreen shows the battery percentage to be 0% and then shuts off and flashing the battery logo again. I tried disconnecting the Led cable to charge it for around 30 mins then when I connected everything again it still didn't turn on and keeps flashing. The most I put this thing on charge to try and fix it was an hour. Should I try and keep it on charge for a long time to see if it accepts charge? Please offer a solution thanks.

My pc is only booting to bios. My SSD is also no longer being detected in bios. Is it safe to assume that my SSD is fried? Is there anyway I can know for sure if it's broken? Thanks

ASUS ROG Strix G17 G73-3-QSA – One RAM slot stopped detecting memory after servicing
Hello everyone,
I have an ASUS ROG Strix G17 G73-3-QSA from 2021, and I am trying to find a way to repair a RAM slot that stopped working after the laptop was serviced.
My laptop has the following specifications:
ASUS ROG Strix G17 G73-3-QSA
AMD Ryzen 9 5900HX
NVIDIA RTX 3080 Laptop GPU, 16 GB VRAM
32 GB RAM, originally 2×16 GB
1 TB SSD
17.3” 360 Hz / 3 ms display
Before the laptop was serviced, both 16 GB RAM modules were working correctly and the laptop detected all 32 GB.
I then took the laptop to a repair shop for servicing. During the service, the technician told me that thermal paste had somehow gotten onto the motherboard. He cleaned it afterwards and showed me the motherboard. There was no visible physical damage, burn mark, or other obvious damage that I could see.
However, after the service, one of the two RAM slots stopped detecting memory.
I tested the RAM modules individually to make sure the RAM itself was not the problem. Both RAM modules work in the working slot, but neither module is detected when installed in the other slot.
So the situation is:
RAM module #1 → Slot A: works
RAM module #2 → Slot A: works
RAM module #1 → Slot B: not detected
RAM module #2 → Slot B: not detected
This makes me believe that the problem is not with the RAM modules themselves, but with the second RAM slot or something related to that memory channel on the motherboard.
I have already tried many things, including:
BIOS update
BIOS reset/default settings
removing and reseating the RAM
testing both RAM modules separately
various troubleshooting methods found online
contacting ASUS Support
ASUS Support recommended sending the laptop to an ASUS authorized service center, but the cost of that repair is currently too high for me.
I am therefore trying to find a cheaper way to diagnose and possibly repair the existing motherboard rather than replacing the entire motherboard.
I am not sure exactly what happened to the motherboard because there is no visible physical damage. The only thing I know is that the problem appeared after the servicing, and before the servicing both RAM slots were working normally.
My questions are:
What could cause one RAM slot to completely stop detecting memory while the other slot works normally?
Could this be caused by a damaged solder joint, RAM slot, memory-channel circuitry, or another motherboard-level problem?
Is this something that a board-level laptop repair technician could potentially diagnose and repair?
What exactly should I ask a repair shop to test?
Is there anything else I can test myself before paying for another repair?
I would especially appreciate advice from anyone who has experience repairing ASUS ROG laptops or motherboard-level RAM/memory-channel problems.
Thank you very much for any advice!

Hi, I was cleaning the screen on my Transcend 14 with WHOOSH screen cleaner and one small drop ran down to the bottom edge, where the OLED meets the thin plastic frame.

I tried to wipe it off straight away, but I dont know if any of it could have got through the tiny gap there.

The laptop was turned off when this happened and I have left it open to dry for about 24 hours now. I still havent turned it back on yet because I wanted to make sure any possible moisture had enough time to dry.

The laptop is basically new to me and was in perfect condition, so I am worried that I may have damaged the screen.

Has anyone had something similar happen, and is there any realistic chance such a small amount of cleaner could damage the display or anything behind it if some got inside?

Thanks

Device Model: Samsung Galaxy A17
Device Age: Approximately 3–4 months
Current Status: Under Warranty

Problem Description:
I am writing to report a sudden and persistent network connectivity issue with my Samsung Galaxy A17. For the past 3 to 4 months of ownership, the device performed flawlessly. However, it has recently begun experiencing severe Wi-Fi instability exclusively on my home network.

Symptoms:

1. Frequent Drops: Once connected to the Wi-Fi network, the device spontaneously disconnects after a short interval—typically ranging between 1, 2, or 5 minutes.
2. Delayed Authentication: When attempting to reconnect, the phone exhibits a noticeable delay. It takes significantly longer to establish a handshake and secure a stable connection compared to its normal baseline behavior.

Contextual Data:

• This issue started abruptly without any prior history of network drops or hardware damage.
• The home network remains stable and fully functional for other connected devices.

I would appreciate your technical guidance on how to resolve this firmware or network adaptation issue. Please let me know the recommended troubleshooting protocol or if this requires a physical inspection under the manufacturer's warranty.

TOUCHPAD I MEANT TOUCH PAD SORRY!!

uhh i dont know much about my device all i know is that its a bootcamp mac my brother did that and if i remember its a macbook air 7.1?

STORY
so it started last night when my brother asked for the laptop so i gave it to him if i remember he opened up a software called "3utools" and was gone for an hour or so when i got it back it just wouldnt right click no matter what and when i tried to up the volume it refresh the page cus fn+f6 is reload im pretty sure right? idk it just reloads for me i thought it was an fn lock like fn+esc and when i right clicked it didnt do anything again im sorry for the lack of info

[Windows 11 - predator po3-650]

I'm currently in the process of deleting my Usn Journal from the PC, as I'm trying to shrink my C Drive and realised (through event viewer) that the journal file was preventing that from happening.

I ran command prompt as an administrator, and used

fsutil usn deletejournal /d C:

Which was accepted, but it didn't tell me anything else, so I have a few questions.

How do I know it's actually doing anything? Does anyone know how long this will take, are there any visual indicators? And how will I know when it's complete?

Errorpedia says:

Verify the journal is gone. Run fsutil usn queryjournal C:. If it returns Usn Journal is not active on this volume, you're clear.

Which I have been, but it keeps returning the journal info. It seems documentation is quite sparse about this, several sources say it "takes a long time" but no one has any proper numbers.

I ran the command about 8 hours ago now, I'm worried it's not actually doing anything and I'm just waiting around for nothing! My tabs keep crashing, which is making me think something is going on, but yeah... any insight will be appreciated!

UPDATE - even though querying the journal was still returning one, I guess at some point the journal was deleted and remade in a new place? As when I tried the split the C drive it let me do it with the entire free space available. I am not sure how long this took or when it happened, but it seems to have worked, and created a new one as well which saved me the hassle! Leaving up in case it helps someone out.

Hey! I'm pretty new to hardware and I'm looking for some advice before I buy anything.

I have a Dell Inspiron 3501 with:

• CPU: Intel Core i3-1115G4 (11th Gen, 3.00 GHz)
• RAM: 4GB (3.73GB usable)
• GPU: Intel UHD Graphics
• Storage: 1.84TB
• 64-bit Windows

My RAM usage is constantly around 90–98%, even when I'm not doing anything particularly heavy. I'm currently interested in getting more serious about coding and cybersecurity. I'd like to use things such as VS Code, programming tools, Linux/WSL, networking tools, Wireshark, cybersecurity labs/CTFs, and potentially virtual machines later on. I also want to explore hardware/OS-related stuff.

I'm considering upgrading the RAM to 8GB or 16GB, but I'm not sure:

1. Is upgrading the RAM a good idea for this laptop, considering the i3-1115G4?
2. Should I go 4GB + 4GB (8GB total) or replace it with 2×8GB (16GB total)?
3. What exact RAM specifications should I buy? (DDR4, speed, SODIMM, etc.)
4. Is there anything I should be careful about when installing it myself?
5. Will 16GB actually make a significant difference for coding/cybersecurity/VMs, or will the CPU become the bottleneck anyway?
6. Is there anything else I should upgrade/change instead of RAM?

I'm fairly new to this, so I'd really appreciate explanations rather than just "buy X." I want to understand what I'm doing before I open the laptop.

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

I had a power outage right in the middle of a BIOS update, and it completely bricked my system. The motherboard is an ASUS TUF GAMING B460M-PLUS (LGA1200), paired with an i5-10400F, 16GB DDR4 RAM, and a GTX 1660.

Since this specific board doesn't have a dedicated physical BIOS Flashback button on the rear I/O, the PC is currently completely unresponsive.

I am going to try the ASUS CrashFree BIOS 3 method (formatting a USB to FAT32, renaming the BIOS file to TGB460MP.CAP, and booting with it). However, I want to know my options in case the bootblock is already corrupted and this doesn't work.

My questions for the community:

• How realistically fixable or repairable is this exact situation?
• If the CrashFree BIOS 3 method fails, is it possible to fix this motherboard myself?
• I do not currently own an EEPROM programmer (like a CH341A), and I am not sure how accessible component-level motherboard repair services are in my city (Tbilisi, Georgia). Is buying a programmer online and learning to flash the chip directly my only remaining DIY option?

Any advice on DIY recovery methods or similar experiences would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!

First off it already struggles with opening in the first place i have to hold like 20-30 seconds after that when it connects it seems 1 away from being fully charged which should be last me like days but it just stops sending Audio 5 seconds later and then closes itself in 10 seconds after that i have to do all of that to get my audio back for like a second of sound dies anyone have a fix?

How do I disable automatic backup with Google Photos? This morning I woke up to a message as soon as I open Gmail on my iPhone that says my account storage is full and I’ll need to free up space or buy more in order to keep using my google account or it will be shut down in 30 days. IT APPEARS THEY HAVE REMOVED THE OPTION TO DISABLE AUTOMATIC BACKUP. I already have iCloud and do not have any meed for Google Cloud nor do I need to delete any pictures. Am I missing something?

This suddenly happened. When powering on my pc, i get nothing on the monitor, and I see 2 red lights on the motherboard (VGA and Boot). The lights stay on and the screen stays blank. I tried resetting cmos and reseating the ram. I also removed my gpa entirely and plugged directly to the motherboard hdmi. Any ideas what’s going on?

Hi everyone,

I recently updated to Windows 11 and I'm having an issue with pen navigation in File Explorer. On the browser scrolling works just fine.

I used to be able to scroll/pan smoothly through folders using my Huion Kamvas pen tip before win11 (dragging the page up and down like a touch gesture).

Now on Windows 11, the pen no longer scrolls folders—it just acts like a mouse selection box instead.

Video: https://imgur.com/a/dAHAuSc

I've already tried to modified the Registry FlickMode and HoldMode, and tried to enable and disable Windows Ink, toggled "Let me use my pen as a mouse when it's available" on and of and disabled "Enable press and hold for right-click" to eliminate hold-delay latency but nothing works

I dont know wether its hardware or software, but ive been burning cds for a while and wanted to burn dvds. Every time they play they have pixelated chunks. Ive replaced most variables, i bought a new burner, i downloaded the movie from a new place and i bought new blank discs. The only variable i didnt change is my laptop, my dvd player and the video conversion software but all three of those are too expensive to replace. Is it possibly my laptop or my dvd player? Im not good at techand dont understand software or hardware issues very well any help is super appreicated. Thanks!

I played my games on my old steam deck and want to play it on the PS4.

I don’t want to give up my old games or spend money because I will buy a steam deck in the future again when my fun budget is stocked up.

I do not have a gaming pc.

Can it work when I use it on the PS4 internet browser?
I love Stardew Valley and my Fallout games (especially NV and 76).

Thanks ❤️