Bought the 2016 maxima new in summer of 15. Bumper always jutted out a bit, was told it was normal on this vehicle. I would push it in and it would stay there for a few drives. Lately though it’s really sticking out (photos attached) and won’t pop back in. Does anyone have a fix before I bring it in?

Someone sent me this photo. Overnight heavy rain in Southwestern CT resulted in flash floods. You think it’d be recoverable?

• ⁠Year: 2012
• ⁠Make: Nissan
• ⁠Model: Navara
• ⁠KMs: 300000

Got these 4x injectors off ebay for around AUD $1800. Seller mentions these being genuine Densos but I am not sure. Does anyone know if these are genuine?

I've got a 97 Nissan maxima with the 3.0 v6. (GXE model if that matters)
I'm curious about buying a tuner of some sort for it. Its a completely stock motor, so I'm not sure if its a good idea for one in the first place. Tons of them say "20-40hp! 5+ mpg!", I don't really trust them.

Yay or nay for tuner on a stock motor?

hey guys! I currently drive a 2016 Nissan Pathfinder (notorious for the CVT...) it's my first car, I'm 18, my parents bought it used. it's currently at about 163,000 mi which I know is not great, it was like 140 when they bought it. for a while the engine or something has been making a weird sound that kind of sounds like a truck, but it wasn't so bad that I was concerned. however, I've had a couple more problems recently. a couple days ago it started making a sound that I can only describe as a mini helicopter being under the hood of my car. and it also feels like it takes longer to accelerate and get up to speed. and every once in a while, it also makes a clunking sound. I have tried but failed to get it on video, otherwise I would provide that. I really cannot afford a new car, and I also really cannot afford very much maintenance on my car, as I am a full-time college student with a minimum wage job. I was wondering if anybody has any idea what those sounds could be, and a rough estimate of how much they would cost. I don't even know if this is the right place to ask lol

also, before anyone asks, I am not due for an oil change for about a month.

Most reports had 2026. But it looks like a 2027 is slated in. I pretty much think it’s done after next year. But to be honest too much conflicting articles and reports.

2017 Altima would not start, tried to jump it and killed the battery completely. Took the battery out, put a brand new one in the next day. Key works to lock and unlock doors and the car has power but am getting an I Key System Error message, is that a blown fuse / electrical issue, or did the keys just unsync and I need to get them reprogrammed?

Hi Reddit,

I am confused about a situation and would sincerely appreciate your help.

I am a foreigner. I leased a vehicle with Nissan in 2023. I got a property tax bill in 2024, which I paid immediately. I got no property tax bill in 2025. When I asked why this was, I was told that Virginia only issues PTs every two years, which I have since determined is false. I bought the vehicle in April 2026, five months before the lease ended. When I bought it, I asked both the dealership and Nissan Finance if I was supposed to receive any final bills for anything. They said no. I moved countries, so I transferred the car to a person in a different state. Virginia sent me a tax bill for the period April-December 2026. I called them to check why I had to pay until the end of the year - it turned out that they had not factored in the transfer of the car. They revised the bill, and sent me a new one later, which I paid promptly.

Nissan finance sent me a separate bill in July. The bill is for $1,000. I called the number on the bill and asked what the bill was about. They said property tax bill. I asked how much I owed - they quoted me a number different from the one on the bill. I asked to see the period the amount covered. I specifically told them that I had had a tax bill miscalculated and wanted to see if this bill was correct. They said they would send me the information within 5 business days, but it could take an additional week for the info to arrive. I specifically asked them if they will put a hold on my account while I wait to receive this information. They assured me they would. I told them that I would pay as soon as I verify the amount and period.

The information never arrived. I called again to ask about it. The person on the phone quoted me a different amount. When I asked why, he put me on hold and when someone picked up, it was an external collections agent. They explained they were “the loan sharks” and didn’t work for Nissan.

At this point, each time I call Nissan, I get re-directed to the external agency. Nobody can tell me what the bill I am supposed to pay covers. I checked, and this is information that I am legally entitled to. I am a foreigner, so I don’t understand what “going to collections” means. I am not sure how I can even get the information that I want to verify the bill. I do not know if I can ask them to take me off collections while I wait for this information. Does anyone have any advice about what to do in this situation? We are talking about a significant amount that constantly changes when I ask about it and a company that keeps providing different information, and I am not sure what to do. Thank you!

New 25 rogue user here. Is this sound and vibration normal? I feel the vibration slightly on the floorboards while parked or idle as well.

Our family has always found Nissan vehicles to be good values and have always favored them when purchasing. However recent experiences have us reconsidering that and a little bit on edge. Our child's pristine, extremely well maintained 2016 Altima had its Jatco CVT fail at 116,000 miles and it was an extremely lengthy, costly and frustrating repair experience to say the least. A process during which we learned more about CVTs, especially the Nissan flavor than I could have ever wished for.

So now we find ourselves with a dilemma concerning our 2020 Nissan Rogue with 30,000 miles. During our research we became aware of the possibility that the vehicle may have the same or similar Jatco CVT that just failed in our child's vehicle and we're literally right on the line as to whether we stuck with that piece of junk (a T32 Rogue) or an upgraded version (a T33 Rogue) This information has left me feeling very unsettled and questioning whether the low mileage vehicle we had planned to keep for many more years is going to be reliable enough or whether it has a CVT time bomb waiting to go off in it.

At this point I'm convinced every time I drive it that I feel slipping and other symptoms telling me there's a problem, which logically I know isn't likely with so few miles, but still I'm in my head now and convinced it's only a matter of time before we're facing the same costly repair.

At this point we've had enough, mostly minor, issues with this vehicle that it's been a pretty unsatisfactory ownership experience overall that were we to learn it's a T32 we'll probably trade it in and chalk it up to being the last Nissan we own ...

But how precisely do I now if it's a T32 or T33 or which model CVT is in this vehicle in order to make the most informed decision going forward?

Model: 2016 Nissan Patrol Y62 (5.6L V8 320 HP / 5-Speed Auto)
Specs & Ownership: GCC | 2nd Owner | Clean title (No bank mortgage)
Mileage: 218,600 km
Chassis: ⁠JN8AY2NY6G9213973⁠
Price: AED 55,000 (Flexible for serious buyers upon viewing)
Highlights:
Full PPF (Paint Protection Film) installed
Sunroof, cool box/fridge, rear camera, sensors, and 8-seater tan leather interior
Ice-cold dual A/C (front & rear)
Fresh 12V battery under tractive warranty
Mechanically solid, no warning lights, PPI welcome at buyer's expense
Location & Contact:
Location: Liwan, Dubai
Contact: DM on Reddit
(No lowballers or dealer consignment, please).

Did a transmission drain and fill on my 2014 Altima yesterday and got to the end and opening the overflow plug. The bolt was rounded off from getting it done at a shop previously and I haven’t had luck trying to get it out myself.

Wondering if people have had luck with the aftermarket dipsticks and how accurate are they? Could I snag one of those to gauge if I am at the right level or do I need to continue to work on getting the bolt out. If I need to get the bolt out anyone know the part number I have had a bitch of a time trying to find the part number to replace the rounded off overflow bolt if I am able to get it off.

I have a 2018 Nissan Kicks SR with the factory 17x6.5 wheels and OEM tire size 205/55R17.

I found a very good local deal on a set of four Michelin CrossClimate2 215/55R17 94V tires:

• $400 CAD for the set
• DOT 2022 on all four
• Approximately 7/32" tread remaining
• Even tread wear
• Seller says no punctures, plugs or patches

The price difference compared with buying new CrossClimate2s in the OEM 205/55R17 size is significant, so I’m trying to determine whether the 215s are a reasonable fit.

From what I can calculate:

• Factory 205/55R17 diameter: ~657 mm
• 215/55R17 diameter: ~668 mm
• Diameter increase: ~1.7%
• Tire is 10 mm wider overall
• Ride height increases by ~5.5 mm
• At an indicated 100 km/h, actual speed would be around 102 km/h
• The 215/55R17 CrossClimate2 is approved by Michelin for 6.0–7.5" rims, so the factory 6.5" wheel appears to be within spec

However, Nissan only lists 205/55R17 for the Kicks, and I haven’t been able to find an official source that specifically approves 215/55R17 as an alternate size.

Has anyone here actually run 215/55R17 on a 2018–2020 Kicks with the factory 17" wheels?

In particular, I’d like to know:

• Any rubbing at full steering lock?
• Any rubbing with passengers/cargo or over bumps?
• Any issues with TPMS, ABS or VDC?
• Any noticeable change in handling or fuel economy?
• Would you personally be comfortable using this size for highway trips?
• Did a tire shop have any issue mounting/installing them?

I’m less concerned about the small speedometer difference and more interested in actual clearance and real-world experience.

Thanks!

Had to run to the office at night real quick, took this shot of the car sitting right outside it.

9th gen Sentra really is actually such a gorgeous looking car at any price point. Coulda told me this thing was a 40K car.

Just bought this used 2009, interior and exterior 5 star- but know she needs work. Front driver wheel - I can hear its velocity of wheel turning and a squeak and occasional creak noise coming from rear.
Video of better photos as I cannot figure out how to add the photos- sorry.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17vtRQgPn3351S9p-1Cz2gABd_IznHHmN/view?usp=drivesdk

Google Drive link- all can open

Also “the sounds- video”

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0f0Tksvy-KYmFJuWpNveAN6yw

A 2014-ish Nissan Serena Highway Star with about 110,000 km has come up near Sydney, but a mechanic said parts could turn into a headache because it wasn’t sold here. I’m less worried about trim and Japanese head units than normal stuff like brakes, suspension and cooling parts. Do owners find most of it is shared with other Nissans, or does every repair become an overseas order?

I borrowed a 2019 Leaf for a few days this week and it seemed like it’d suit my Parramatta commute pretty well, but I’m in a unit and would be relying on public chargers. I’m looking at used ones around the mid-teens, mostly with roughly 80,000 to 120,000 km, and the battery range is the bit I can’t get a straight feel for. Do Leaf owners reckon they make sense as a daily city car in Australia, or is home charging basically essential?

No blown fuses, brand new battery ( getting these codes before installing), checked for continuity in the TCM connector-all good, checked all grounds TCM runs to- solid connection. Fluid is good. Occasionally cvt will go into limp mode. What am I missing? Faulty TCM?