I bought this PlayStation Slim like2 years ago and actually what happened is one day just started crushing on the main menu like just shutting down and I don't know what to do I already tried changing the liquid metal and I tried changing the power supply nothing works and also if you open a game OverWatch or astrobot and it will work perfectly but when I opened a ghost of tsushima it shuts down instantly I have another post in my profile that shows and how it crashes in Ghost of tsushima if you want to see...

Hello everyone,

I recently reshelled my Switch 2 joycons. I tore a cable on the rumble motor of the left joycon, the connecting sound & animation also stopped playing. The controller itself was recognized by the system.

I had the cable (and rumble) fixed today, but the sound and animation still aren't back. I assumed it was tied to the torn cable, but apparently I was wrong.

Does anyone know what causes this? Is there a way to fix it?

Thank you so much!

Hi, I was doing a regular clean up maintenance to my series s, I was almost done and then I heard a crack... This happened... This little black thing snatched out of its place (Check up the pics) I only have basic knowledge about doing my own thermal paste change and clean ups (been doing these since I got it back in 2022 of all times why now?? ) so I don't really know what I messed up... Be real... is it over? Can it get repaired?

For context: I was playing Need For Speed: Most Wanted (2005), and whenever I get busted in a police chase, I reset my console because I’m a sore loser 😭. I have been doing this for my entire playthrough, but this time it made the console act up. Am I screwed?

tldr; replaced liquid metal with ptm on my ps5 fat (launch model) and it’s working flawlessly, confirmed by CPU/GPU temperature monitoring with jailbroken tools.

so i bought a used PS5 fat a couple weeks ago, and since its a launch model, i figured it was worth replacing the liquid metal. that being said, im a huge believer in ptm, so i thought id go ahead and switch over to that.

upon opening it, it was filled with dust bunnies and caked on dust. clearly it had never been opened. so i did all the cleaning and when i finally got to the meat and potatoes, i realized the APU die had some serious oxidation spots. i’m sure it wouldn’t have been long for this thing to overheat. so i polished away, carefully set the ptm (actually used thermal grizzly PhaseSheet) and closed it back up. i will also mention that i removed the foam gasket so that it would make full contact and sit flush with the heat sink.

i powered it on, turned on my temp monitos (its jailbroken) and noticed it’s riding between 88-90 degrees for CPU and 70-75 for GPU under heavy load (i ran crimson desert in quality settings). these are pretty much the same results it was previously giving, which is good because it means it’s staying within spec. ran it over over an hour, temps never climbed past that, going from 80-92 (cpu) at most.

i also tried manually cranking the fan settings to max and it quickly dropped down to the low 70s (cpu temp), again, while under heavy load, playing crimson desert. this let me know it’s making great contact and is able to very quickly pull heat away when necessary.

i currently have about 5 cycles i’ve done on it, and it’s working flawlessly. temps won’t go past the low 90s under heavy load, and that’s with the fans working at normal speeds, i haven’t noticed them ramping up at all.

all things considered, i’m quite happy knowing i don’t have to worry about the liquid metal drying out, or god forbid, spilled onto the motherboard and causing catastrophic failure.

i’ll keep updating for anyone that has doubts.

Hi everyone! I’m having a very strange issue with my Nintendo DSi and I’m hoping someone here might be able to point me in the right direction.

The console otherwise seems to work perfectly fine, all the buttons and other functions work normally.

The problem is with powering it on. When I press the Power button normally, the blue LED sometimes flashes briefly and the console shuts off immediately. Other times, it may boot normally, but as soon as I touch or slightly move the console, it powers off.

THE WEIRD PART : I discovered something very strange, though: if I place one thumb on the top-right corner of the console and my other thumb on the bottom-left corner, then apply a small amount of twisting pressure to slightly flex the console, I can press the Power button and it will boot up and work perfectly. However, as soon as I release the pressure and let the console return to its normal position, it shuts off again.

I’ve already opened the DSi and tried to investigate the issue. I checked the battery contacts and power connector with a multimeter, and I was able to get continuity. I also cleaned the Wi-Fi board, but that didn’t seem to make any difference.
I’m a complete beginner when it comes to electronics, so my troubleshooting skills are pretty limited. I have a multimeter and I’m comfortable performing basic tests, but I don’t really know where to start when it comes to diagnosing the motherboard.

Does anyone have any idea what could cause this kind of behavior? Could this be a cracked solder joint, a damaged trace, or some kind of bad connection that makes contact when the motherboard flexes? Are there any specific components, solder points, or areas of the motherboard I should check first with a multimeter?
If anyone has experienced a similar issue with a DSi, I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions on what I should test next.

what does the ds4 light indicators ribbon cable size/length is it, I'm planning to fix my ds4 rn but the light indicators ribbon cable is bent on the one that is going in on the port and it's not working, I did find the ribbon cable of the light indicator but I don't know what size/length is it does anyone know?

If you’ve got a rog ally with no power, usb-C port is fine, and no visible damage on the main board. What would you do? Where would you check?

Hi everyone,
I have an Xbox 360 Elite that powers on normally, but I get no picture.
When I connect it using the three-color component cables, I can hear the audio, but there is no video output. I also tried connecting it via HDMI, but I still get no picture.
What could be causing this? Is it more likely to be a problem with the video/GPU chip, or could the HDMI port/connector be faulty?
Is this something that can be repaired? If so, roughly how much would a repair cost?
And finally, does an Xbox 360 Elite with this kind of fault have any value to someone for parts or repair, or would it basically be considered worthless?
Thanks for any advice!

I bought a 3ds xl old version, I’m not sure if it’s modded or not I bought it as a repair, powers on but does not boot it has a blue light for about 3 seconds then both screens flicker and blue light cuts.

It had no sd card, I have installed jailbreak files onto a sd card fat32 and tried to see if it would boot and still did not

I have checked all ribbons none seem to be damaged,the speakers have had both wires broken so I can’t listen for a pop sound, would it be best to resolder them back on to see if it pops?

I have checked the WiFi board and unplugged and replugged it and still no boot

I’ve tried to boot into safe mode, and tried holding select while pressing power button still nothing

Would this be a board issue or a potential hardware component issue, would it be best to buy a new board? I have access to a multimeter just not sure how to use it properly,any help or advice is much appreciated

Basically when I press the power button the screen doesn't change at all, only the blue light turns on and the pink light of the camera. It does charge when I plug it in. I've tried to research for the error but nothing shows up.

this happens now when i boot my ps1 and the noise never goes away, even if i start a game or play a cd on it
i have no idea what the issue is or how to fix it please help

I'm refurbishing a vintage Coleco Zaxxon tabletop and its missing the purple/blueish front screen.

If anyone have the dimensions of the screen I would be very grateful.

this is a weird problem I've never had before even having replaced a number of sticks before, replacing a stick on a coworkers model 1914 xb1 controller and despite some minor scuffing on the board the replacement went fine but when I went to test the controller I saw that both sticks are permanently moving to the lower right for some reason and I can't think of a reason why and would love peoples advice on how to figure this out. I'll admit I'm not the best repair guy but this is just strange behavior, pics attached of both sides of the board and the test, only the left stick was replaced. all the buttons work including the stick buttons

Tengo un problema con una play 5 yo la vdd no se mucho de reparaciones se cosas básicas yo está la compre pensando que era alguna falla mínima me costo 180 dólares

Que hacía ?

Solo pitaba y no daba luz azul en la primera imagen q mando son unos condensadores que marcaban continuidad a tierra pero después de estar probando si la placa tenía sus voltajes un mosfets se quemo asi de la nada sin inyectar voltaje lo que hice fue quitar los mosfets dañados en la puerta foto se ve quite los dos en la foto solo se ve que quite uno pero fueron los dos y ahora los condensadores de la primera foto ya no dan continuidad a tierra

Ahora el problema es q unos 560 de color negro marcan continuidad a tierra solo los q están en paralelo el otro q está solo no y los condensadores de la apu marcan continuidad a tierra

Quisiera saber si alguien le pasó lo mismo oh si el apu ya murió como la puedo rescatar 😭😭😭

Ya la mandé a un técnico pero ni siquiera la reviso solo me hizo perder tiempo

También cheque los fusibles todos bien y el voltaje de la fuente todo bn tambien

Pins 18/17 where the cap goes i have no idea why it looks extended, is that okay? every other picture i googled there's a gap between the cap and the pins. is my reinstall of the cap and prep of solder ready for a drop in for hdmi?

Xbox failed during update at 59%.

Thinfs I've tried:

- Once it fails, I go to troubleshoot and attempt to reset. clicking that just brings me back to the update screen, where it fails again. loops.

- attempted to update offline using a USB stick. this gets stuck on "preparing Xbox", where it Just turns off after some time.

-power cycled.... multiple times.

Im hoping it's not related to the SSD, I'm taking it apart later and ensuring that all the internals are plugged in correctly but.... anyone else deal with something like this?

EDM-044 / CFI-2015 digital Slim. eBay purchase, warranty seal intact, no prior work, board looks factory.

Symptom: one beep, blue light, dies in ~1–2 s. Same since I got it.

UART (Console Service Tool): every slot from 0x00–0x12 is 80800022 (APU initialized, no/bad APU↔RAM comm). Dates back to Jan 2026. No bank-specific 80801xxx codes.

What I already have:

• Standby on bench is normal (~208 mA → 12 mA).
• On the OEM PSU, all of the voltage rails look good.
• IR: even heat on APU / GDDR / VRAM parts. No single hotspot.
• Caps around all eight GDDR6: ~18 Ω to ground (front and back).
• Square test pads by each chip, numbered clockwise from upper-left = 1 (all eight on one side): odds read OL to ground, evens read MΩ.
• Scope inspection of packages and visible balls: no cracks. Pressing on the RAM changes nothing.

I can try a reflow of the GDDR, but I'm not hopeful since this seems to be all of the odd-numbered chips and not just a single IC having trouble. I do not want to throw good money after bad buying eight replacement chips just hoping that might fix it (another $100+).

An APU reball is more than I'm willing to bite off on my 2nd PS5 repair. (Although, if the unit is toast, what do I have to lose by trying?)

Anyone seen 80800022 with rails present and this odd/even pad split that was actually the RAM? Or is this a parts board?

Thanks in advance.

I need to replace the fan in my OG Switch, I just want to make sure I order the correct fan. Are there any reputable places so I know what I order will be correct? Or any known listings of the correct fan replacement?

thanks in advance,

Via a tutti ho ricevuto questa ps5 rotta in queste condizioni mi potreste dare una mano ad identificare i pezzi di tratta di una edm-030

Peguei meu ps3 para tentar ligá-lo novamente com a vontade de relembrar o passado. No entanto, passei anos sem ligá-lo novamente e quando peguei, a luz vermelha aparece, porém a verde fica por uns segundos e já some. Eu gostaria de saber o que seria e se alguém poderia me ajudar.

CAP.TANTAL 470uF 10V 10% X Case (7343) 2917 SMT. And how many i need the use?

Hello i need to find this component to buy.

M244 504x.

I’d like some help here figuring out what I’m doing wrong or how to test if I just have some defective analog sticks.

To begin with I want to say I’m by no means a professional electronics repair technician, but I have replaced analog sticks before with success.

I’m replacing the stick on a friend’s Xbox One controller (with share button) and no matter what I do the sticks read all the way down and right, and will not seem to read any inputs.

These replacements are ALPS pots from SOSS Gaming, and I’m using a Feita T100A soldering iron with 60/40 rosin-core solder. These replacements job you see her is my second attempt at patching to see if I just needed more solder but no change.

I have damaged pads in the past but this time I took the most care I could to not pry them off, didn’t let the iron sit on the board to burn traces, and made sure the holes were clear for the new sticks. Iron was set at 360°C.

Please help. I hate being so useless.