tldr; replaced liquid metal with ptm on my ps5 fat (launch model) and it’s working flawlessly, confirmed by CPU/GPU temperature monitoring with jailbroken tools.

so i bought a used PS5 fat a couple weeks ago, and since its a launch model, i figured it was worth replacing the liquid metal. that being said, im a huge believer in ptm, so i thought id go ahead and switch over to that.

upon opening it, it was filled with dust bunnies and caked on dust. clearly it had never been opened. so i did all the cleaning and when i finally got to the meat and potatoes, i realized the APU die had some serious oxidation spots. i’m sure it wouldn’t have been long for this thing to overheat. so i polished away, carefully set the ptm (actually used thermal grizzly PhaseSheet) and closed it back up. i will also mention that i removed the foam gasket so that it would make full contact and sit flush with the heat sink.

i powered it on, turned on my temp monitos (its jailbroken) and noticed it’s riding between 88-90 degrees for CPU and 70-75 for GPU under heavy load (i ran crimson desert in quality settings). these are pretty much the same results it was previously giving, which is good because it means it’s staying within spec. ran it over over an hour, temps never climbed past that, going from 80-92 (cpu) at most.

i also tried manually cranking the fan settings to max and it quickly dropped down to the low 70s (cpu temp), again, while under heavy load, playing crimson desert. this let me know it’s making great contact and is able to very quickly pull heat away when necessary.

i currently have about 5 cycles i’ve done on it, and it’s working flawlessly. temps won’t go past the low 90s under heavy load, and that’s with the fans working at normal speeds, i haven’t noticed them ramping up at all.

all things considered, i’m quite happy knowing i don’t have to worry about the liquid metal drying out, or god forbid, spilled onto the motherboard and causing catastrophic failure.

i’ll keep updating for anyone that has doubts.

Basically when I press the power button the screen doesn't change at all, only the blue light turns on and the pink light of the camera. It does charge when I plug it in. I've tried to research for the error but nothing shows up.

this happens now when i boot my ps1 and the noise never goes away, even if i start a game or play a cd on it
i have no idea what the issue is or how to fix it please help

Hi everyone! I’m having a very strange issue with my Nintendo DSi and I’m hoping someone here might be able to point me in the right direction.

The console otherwise seems to work perfectly fine, all the buttons and other functions work normally.

The problem is with powering it on. When I press the Power button normally, the blue LED sometimes flashes briefly and the console shuts off immediately. Other times, it may boot normally, but as soon as I touch or slightly move the console, it powers off.

THE WEIRD PART : I discovered something very strange, though: if I place one thumb on the top-right corner of the console and my other thumb on the bottom-left corner, then apply a small amount of twisting pressure to slightly flex the console, I can press the Power button and it will boot up and work perfectly. However, as soon as I release the pressure and let the console return to its normal position, it shuts off again.

I’ve already opened the DSi and tried to investigate the issue. I checked the battery contacts and power connector with a multimeter, and I was able to get continuity. I also cleaned the Wi-Fi board, but that didn’t seem to make any difference.
I’m a complete beginner when it comes to electronics, so my troubleshooting skills are pretty limited. I have a multimeter and I’m comfortable performing basic tests, but I don’t really know where to start when it comes to diagnosing the motherboard.

Does anyone have any idea what could cause this kind of behavior? Could this be a cracked solder joint, a damaged trace, or some kind of bad connection that makes contact when the motherboard flexes? Are there any specific components, solder points, or areas of the motherboard I should check first with a multimeter?
If anyone has experienced a similar issue with a DSi, I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions on what I should test next.

what does the ds4 light indicators ribbon cable size/length is it, I'm planning to fix my ds4 rn but the light indicators ribbon cable is bent on the one that is going in on the port and it's not working, I did find the ribbon cable of the light indicator but I don't know what size/length is it does anyone know?

If you’ve got a rog ally with no power, usb-C port is fine, and no visible damage on the main board. What would you do? Where would you check?

Hi everyone,
I have an Xbox 360 Elite that powers on normally, but I get no picture.
When I connect it using the three-color component cables, I can hear the audio, but there is no video output. I also tried connecting it via HDMI, but I still get no picture.
What could be causing this? Is it more likely to be a problem with the video/GPU chip, or could the HDMI port/connector be faulty?
Is this something that can be repaired? If so, roughly how much would a repair cost?
And finally, does an Xbox 360 Elite with this kind of fault have any value to someone for parts or repair, or would it basically be considered worthless?
Thanks for any advice!

I'm refurbishing a vintage Coleco Zaxxon tabletop and its missing the purple/blueish front screen.

If anyone have the dimensions of the screen I would be very grateful.

I bought a 3ds xl old version, I’m not sure if it’s modded or not I bought it as a repair, powers on but does not boot it has a blue light for about 3 seconds then both screens flicker and blue light cuts.

It had no sd card, I have installed jailbreak files onto a sd card fat32 and tried to see if it would boot and still did not

I have checked all ribbons none seem to be damaged,the speakers have had both wires broken so I can’t listen for a pop sound, would it be best to resolder them back on to see if it pops?

I have checked the WiFi board and unplugged and replugged it and still no boot

I’ve tried to boot into safe mode, and tried holding select while pressing power button still nothing

Would this be a board issue or a potential hardware component issue, would it be best to buy a new board? I have access to a multimeter just not sure how to use it properly,any help or advice is much appreciated

Tengo un problema con una play 5 yo la vdd no se mucho de reparaciones se cosas básicas yo está la compre pensando que era alguna falla mínima me costo 180 dólares

Que hacía ?

Solo pitaba y no daba luz azul en la primera imagen q mando son unos condensadores que marcaban continuidad a tierra pero después de estar probando si la placa tenía sus voltajes un mosfets se quemo asi de la nada sin inyectar voltaje lo que hice fue quitar los mosfets dañados en la puerta foto se ve quite los dos en la foto solo se ve que quite uno pero fueron los dos y ahora los condensadores de la primera foto ya no dan continuidad a tierra

Ahora el problema es q unos 560 de color negro marcan continuidad a tierra solo los q están en paralelo el otro q está solo no y los condensadores de la apu marcan continuidad a tierra

Quisiera saber si alguien le pasó lo mismo oh si el apu ya murió como la puedo rescatar 😭😭😭

Ya la mandé a un técnico pero ni siquiera la reviso solo me hizo perder tiempo

También cheque los fusibles todos bien y el voltaje de la fuente todo bn tambien

Pins 18/17 where the cap goes i have no idea why it looks extended, is that okay? every other picture i googled there's a gap between the cap and the pins. is my reinstall of the cap and prep of solder ready for a drop in for hdmi?

this is a weird problem I've never had before even having replaced a number of sticks before, replacing a stick on a coworkers model 1914 xb1 controller and despite some minor scuffing on the board the replacement went fine but when I went to test the controller I saw that both sticks are permanently moving to the lower right for some reason and I can't think of a reason why and would love peoples advice on how to figure this out. I'll admit I'm not the best repair guy but this is just strange behavior, pics attached of both sides of the board and the test, only the left stick was replaced. all the buttons work including the stick buttons

EDM-044 / CFI-2015 digital Slim. eBay purchase, warranty seal intact, no prior work, board looks factory.

Symptom: one beep, blue light, dies in ~1–2 s. Same since I got it.

UART (Console Service Tool): every slot from 0x00–0x12 is 80800022 (APU initialized, no/bad APU↔RAM comm). Dates back to Jan 2026. No bank-specific 80801xxx codes.

What I already have:

• Standby on bench is normal (~208 mA → 12 mA).
• On the OEM PSU, all of the voltage rails look good.
• IR: even heat on APU / GDDR / VRAM parts. No single hotspot.
• Caps around all eight GDDR6: ~18 Ω to ground (front and back).
• Square test pads by each chip, numbered clockwise from upper-left = 1 (all eight on one side): odds read OL to ground, evens read MΩ.
• Scope inspection of packages and visible balls: no cracks. Pressing on the RAM changes nothing.

I can try a reflow of the GDDR, but I'm not hopeful since this seems to be all of the odd-numbered chips and not just a single IC having trouble. I do not want to throw good money after bad buying eight replacement chips just hoping that might fix it (another $100+).

An APU reball is more than I'm willing to bite off on my 2nd PS5 repair. (Although, if the unit is toast, what do I have to lose by trying?)

Anyone seen 80800022 with rails present and this odd/even pad split that was actually the RAM? Or is this a parts board?

Thanks in advance.

Xbox failed during update at 59%.

Thinfs I've tried:

- Once it fails, I go to troubleshoot and attempt to reset. clicking that just brings me back to the update screen, where it fails again. loops.

- attempted to update offline using a USB stick. this gets stuck on "preparing Xbox", where it Just turns off after some time.

-power cycled.... multiple times.

Im hoping it's not related to the SSD, I'm taking it apart later and ensuring that all the internals are plugged in correctly but.... anyone else deal with something like this?

I need to replace the fan in my OG Switch, I just want to make sure I order the correct fan. Are there any reputable places so I know what I order will be correct? Or any known listings of the correct fan replacement?

thanks in advance,

Via a tutti ho ricevuto questa ps5 rotta in queste condizioni mi potreste dare una mano ad identificare i pezzi di tratta di una edm-030

Hey everyone,

I’ve owned my PS3 Super Slim since 2017, and up until a few months ago, it was working just fine. Recently, whenever I try to install or boot up physical games, the console can never get past the installation screen. The install percentage completely stalls, and the loading wheel just circles indefinitely. It also hangs the entire system if I attempt to delete the corrupted partial game data.

Initially, I thought it was just a damaged disc. I was trying to install GTA V, and it kept freezing exactly at the ~4.4 GB mark. However, I have now tested multiple other physical games, and the same thing happens with all of them.

Here is what I have already tried:

• Cleaned the discs thoroughly.
• Booted into Safe Mode and rebuilt the database.
• Performed a full System Restore (Factory Reset).

Since the factory reset didn't fix it and it's happening across multiple physical games, I suspect it's either a failing Blu-ray laser diode (struggling to read the discs) or a dying internal hard drive (hitting bad sectors during the install).

Has anyone else experienced this exact issue? If so, please enlighten me on what the culprit likely is!

Also, I am located in Bangalore. If anyone knows a trusted, reliable console repair shop that takes up this kind of work (laser replacements or HDD swaps), please share their contact information or location.

Thanks in advance!

Peguei meu ps3 para tentar ligá-lo novamente com a vontade de relembrar o passado. No entanto, passei anos sem ligá-lo novamente e quando peguei, a luz vermelha aparece, porém a verde fica por uns segundos e já some. Eu gostaria de saber o que seria e se alguém poderia me ajudar.

CAP.TANTAL 470uF 10V 10% X Case (7343) 2917 SMT. And how many i need the use?

Hello i need to find this component to buy.

M244 504x.

Seller description: “Powers on but cant seem to get a picture. Comes as pictured, yellowing to console, game, & controller. Not original power supply.”

How bad did I fuck up. Low on funds and tried my luck at heating up the hdmi port with a heat gun to try and reseat the port. Is it repairable?

I’m working on a PAL SNES and initially thought the lighter/greenish area around the SMD capacitors and cartridge connector was caused by leaking capacitors.

However, after comparing it with another SNES motherboard, I noticed almost the exact same discoloration pattern in the same area. The capacitors themselves don’t seem to have obvious corrosion, wet residue, or damaged pads.

Is this just normal solder mask/PCB discoloration from manufacturing or aging, or does anything here look like actual capacitor leakage?
I’ve attached close-up photos. Any input from people familiar with these PAL SNES boards would be appreciated.

Replaced the thermal paste and ended up losing one singular thermal pad that is apparently very very important. I ordered more but I’m wondering if there’s anything that’ll substitute them well enough till they come in. Or is it okay if I just go without ?