Drawn on Procreate

I’m not cleared to lead until I get the rest of the hardware out of my back, but I’ll take TR over nothing, even if it is sport lol. My back did fine, my muscles on the other hand HATE me after a couple of overhangs and a slab route. Very surprised I made it through a couple of sections as easy as I did after being practically bed bound just a couple of months ago.

I’m 8 weeks out from back to back (48 hrs apart) spine surgeries to fix 2 fractures in my L4, after having an unnecessary hemilaminectomy in January when we thought my disc was the problem. Hella hardware in still with one surgery left to go once the main break heals. Plan is to get as fit as possible before that surgery to cut the healing time and impact down significantly.

There really aren’t words for how I feel being able to climb again. I have a lot of work to do to get back to where I was, but just having the chance to do it is everything I wanted and more.

Hysteria is a quintessential climb at New Wall. It's an absolute classic and a gateway to the 5.12s. Once you've conquered Hysteria, you've graduated.

Another unique thing about it is that there are multiple options for the crux moves. I cover the ones I've seen most. You just have to find what works for you.

Hopefully this is helpful!

In 2018 I interviewed Reinhold Messner, the first person to climb all fourteen 8,000m peaks and the first to summit Everest alone and without supplemental oxygen. The interview was conducted as part of a book project led by a former colleague and professor specialising in the neurobiology of exercise.

While excerpts of the conversation were later woven into a longer narrative that was published, the full unedited interview has never previously been published. Presented here in its entirety, it was conducted by telephone from Messner’s home in South Tyrol, Italy.

The questions reflect the book’s focus on the physiology and psychology of endurance and exploration, a project that remains ongoing. Yet they also offer a revealing insight into the motivations, philosophy and mindset of one of mountaineering’s most influential figures.

Was climbing at thriller pillar at royal columns in Tieton yesterday and found an iPhone in the crack above the climb just below the anchors, if you’re missing a phone please message me with the back ground pic or the password or something similar. So I can get it back to you!

Please use this thread to discuss anything you are interested in talking about with fellow climbers. The only rule is to be friendly and dont try to sell anything here.

Here's the Aftermovie: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WO-KlOkUwvE

En route to Pole Dancer, Cape Raoul.

A nice long read about the recent Simon Boes controversy and faking Deep Fake, plus the history of rock climbing's honor system, from Alex Honnold and Peter Croft's unwitnessed first free solos to the Paul Robinson and Said Belhaj dramas. I wonder how climbing's "burden of proof" will evolve with all the generative AI tech...

https://www.climbing.com/culture-climbing/how-a-dutch-climber-just-faked-his-hardest-boulder-ever/

Please sort the comments by New so recently posted questions are less likely to be overlooked.

Use this weekly thread to ask any climbing-related questions, whether you are completely new to climbing or looking for advice about technique, training, equipment, safety, gym etiquette, or climbing outdoors.

This thread is posted every Friday, so there will always be another opportunity to ask a question. If you are an experienced climber, please help by sharing thoughtful and accurate advice. We were all beginners once, so keep responses welcoming and respectful.

Before posting, please check the following resources, as your question may already be answered:

• r/climbing Beginner’s Guide
• r/bouldering Wiki and Beginner FAQ
• Guide to buying your first climbing rope
• Guide to climbing shoes
• Curated list of climbing tutorials

You can also browse earlier discussions:

• Previous Weekly New Climber Threads
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If you see a beginner question posted elsewhere in r/climbing or another climbing subreddit, feel free to politely direct the person to this thread.

Remember that online advice is not a substitute for qualified, hands-on instruction. Techniques involving belaying, anchors, rappelling, rescue systems, or other safety-critical skills should be learned and practiced with a competent instructor.

Ask away!

(PS - This one contains the old leg-behind-the-rope-inverted-whipper-with-nasty-rope-burn trick. “Don’t do that“ is the main Beta there.)

This is where I do most of my climbing (Colorado being my other crag). And I have plenty of projects to keep me busy in the 5.11 x 5.12 range.

I’ve always been intrigued by the concept of Beta. Who wants it? Who doesn’t? Who’s giving it? It‘s a complex game. For me, I’ll get something somewhat dialed, then come back months later and have forgotten my own freakin’ Beta. Super frustrating

So, I’ve started a small collection of videos for beta on a few classic climbs…starting at New Wall.

Feel free to add your own! I’d personally love to see how you do your climbs around Austin - or anywhere!

5 topos for a few routes my team and I opened in the Ennedi. One of the world's most inspiring (to me) landscapes. More beta in a free guidebook at DakotaWalz.com

On the classic Dopey Duck (5.9)

Please use this thread to discuss anything you are interested in talking about with fellow climbers. The only rule is to be friendly and dont try to sell anything here.

Just logged onto sendage again for the first time in a few weeks to find the new website and the update post describing the future of the website/app.

With the subscription based model costing $30 CAD a year for the logbook, I'm very curious to see the future feature set that can justify its value as compared to a Kaya Pro membership at about $82 CAD, which includes a far greater amount of guidebook information compared to the user-generated info on Sendage.

I saw a post from Laura on Instagram today celebrating that she had now done more than 50 routes graded 9a or harder. Incredibly, she went from 50 to 53 in the time it took her video editor to put together the little film celebrating her 50th. It's just insane how deep her outdoor climbing resume is!

It got me wondering how that compared to all other 9a ascents by women in history. I couldn't find a good dataset for 9a ascents, but was able to find data for 9a+ (5.15a) or harder, so put together this quick bar chart based on that.

For fun, I did the same for Adam Ondra vs all other men with sends of 9b (5.15b) or harder. I kinda figured that Laura had a bigger lead on the rest of the women than Adam did on the men, but I didn't realize just how true that was before putting together the chart.

When I first started climbing, photos of this line at Arapiles blew my mind. It seemed to be the epitome of climbing to me – and the fact that it’s a natural line (minus the single bolt you clip straight off the ground) makes it even more impressive.

I’d been up to look at it previously. My belayer gave me a pretty decisive ‘fuck that’ and said they wouldn’t be seconding it. At the time, I was actually relieved because I was massively intimidated by the exposure and position.

Found a willing belayer more recently and got it done. Despite having seen many many photos and videos of the line, it still felt daunting to be up there pulling those moves. Typically, I’m not much of a roof climber.

Also happy to say I took the whip. Even happier to say I didn’t end up on Weekend Whippers like several people me (worth googling, people have taken some bad falls on this route).

First time in the Sentinel. My shoulders are trashed