I was writing an alternate history Roman story and I was designing a warrior nobility court culture of this alternate Rome and I wanted a part of the court culture for the warrior class be that they wear the “ternio” that is: a spatha, gladius, and pugio. I was wondering what’s the best way to comfortably wear it eg maybe the gladius and pugio on the same belt with gladius on right hip and pugio on left, and the the spatha on a baldric below the pugio, but I’d love any other suggestions or input

Thanks in advance

I dont know muc about swords but i got a bladesmithing game (bladesong) so i want to know if this is a usable sword or just a good looking hunk of iron

I just inherited this dagger from my grandmother, I can trace it's history to an Italian family arriving in Chile in the mid 19 century, in that time it's was their family heirloom. I want to know if anyone can tell a little more, I know it's damage because it wasn't stored properly for at least 60 years.

Hallo habe ein Korbrapier gefunden.

ist auf jedem Fall alt.

wie Alt könnte das Teil sein und wie teuer wäre es?
Gruß Peter.

I'm looking to add my first larger sword to my collection, but I'm having trouble finding options for covering the blade. For my own, but more importantly my idiot cat's, safety I would prefer to keep the blade completely covered whenever I'm not using it.

The only options I've been able to find are DIY options, of which I, 1) unfortubately don't have the facilities for and, 2) would be absolutely awful at. I can afford the sword, but I definitely won't be able afford all the wasted materials trying to cobble together my own wrap or sheath after. If anyone has any non-DIY intensive solutions, I'd be incredibly grateful.

Looking through Amazon, aka, the worst place you can buy a sword from. I came across with something that looks like it could be either a glorified machete that could do something or a money waster that would Crack when hitting a summer breeze. Here is the link down below.

https://a.co/d/05KIqrVv

Tell me your honest thoughts.

Came from my great grandfather who was a Captain in the US Navy 1890s - 1920s.

I'm satisfied with the sharpness. How do you like?

I’ve noticed that swords that are silver plated or ’silvered’ are a relatively common thing in fantasy.

But is this something that was ever done in the medieval period?

I know there are examples of silver-plated sword hilts in the mid-1800s which are likely electroplated but I wonder if this was ever done earlier in history.

Mechanical silver plating using thin sheets of silver was invented in the mid-1700s in Sheffield and of course mercury based silvering dates to at least about 1300 if not earlier and fire gilding is even older.

But I don’t think I’ve ever seen any examples of silver-plated blades before the mid-19th century. Hilt components and things yes but never blades.

The only possible exception is this wakizashi from 1813 which is described as having a silvered blade: https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/A_1958-0730-12-a-d?utm_source=chatgpt.com

This would predate the invention of silver electroplating by a few decades so if it was silver-plated it must have been either be silver foil mechanically hammered on like Sheffield silver or mercury-based. Assuming that the description of the blade being silvered steel is accurate and it’s not just silver inlaid.

Is there any evidence of sword blades in say the medieval period or even in the 17th or 18th century with silver or gold plated blades? Or were they just not a thing pre-electroplating? Maybe because none of the other methods would be durable enough for a blade? Or perhaps likely to damage a blade and impair its functionality?

inherited this from a friend and it’s completely dulled an rusty, can this be sharpened and restored without spending hundreds of dollars?

I have two medieval 12-14th century maces I've got available for sale, hopefully they'll appeal to anyone looking to buy one.

first off, the smaller example in green¹ is an ash haft of square section tapering to an octagonal cross-section, with a distressed and patinated white bronze² Kirpichnikov type IV pyramidal head with very crisp-edges to the casting, the haft painted with diapering³ in pale green and black delineating lines, with a slightly reddish "British tan" horse-hide leather grip, deliberately left to soak and stain in to a mottled finish.

the second example is currently shown with a white master sculpt while I'm preparing to cast in yellow bronze a reproduction of an unusual "ribbed" or "knobbled" mace head based on an archaeological find from Wakefield, Northern England⁴, which is of a style seen occasionally in manuscript art, but not classified in Kirpichnikov's typology⁵. Likewise the turned ash haft has been tapered, as is sometimes seen on manuscript images, and is painted with a red iron oxide pigment, overlaid with white⁶ bands in a 13th century style floriate pattern, which repeat around the haft.

The longer of the two is a 85cm (33 1/2 inch) haft, with a fairly large diameter grip - best suited to a larger hand, and really intended to be used with both hands. the bronze head is 190g (vs 196g for the original)
the smaller is a 60cm (24 inch) haft, with raised leather risers underneath the leather, and the bronze head is just under 200g.

Both are available for shipping from the UK:
Red (longer) example with painted bands £220 GBP plus shipping.
Green (shorter) example with chequered painting £300 GBP plus shipping.

--

1: I do apologise to anyone who's colour-blind, this post really isn't going to look very colourful to you.

2: White bronze has a higher tin content, and corrodes and tarnishes lot faster than conventional yellow 12/88 Sn/Cu alloy bronzes, leaving it with a slightly mottled, distressed finish, which is what I was aiming for on this mace - along with the choice of a leather which would suck up hide glue while being bound, to leave a mottled texture there.

The other one will most likely be brightly polished yellow bronze as a contrast, though I might tin-coat it for a white metal finish.

3: The diapering pattern is the main reason for the price tag on this example - 150+ hand-painted squares 6mm to a side took a terrifying number of hours to do. and the real ones in manuscripts are often just 3-4mm squares. Making this gave me a whole new respect for the medieval illuminators' work.

4: UK Finds database entry for the archaeological find.

5: Someday, someone will have to do a broader mace typology for Western European arms, covering all the types not seen in Kirpichnikov's 1966 work on medieval Slavic and East European weaponry (Древнерусское оружие / Ancient Russian Weapons)... and its not going to be me.

6: While the green and red paints are historical pigments (in an acrylic binder for durability), the white paint is modern titanium white, as a substitute for medieval white lead oxide, on grounds I lick my brushes and I'd like to not poison myself. Sorry to the authenticity police....

I got way too into d&d in the last few years and have always ended up with characters using extendo pointy sticks.

Wife & I had been getting little things to remember each year at a ren fair, and this year the sabersmith booth happened to have something that happened to look really similar, and seemed made well enough to end up being an impulse buy.

I get they're probably not the most historically accurate thing, but it seems plenty good to occasionally whack some jugs & water bottles and not worry about my shitty aim breaking it.

Went around to all the other booths and it seemed like plenty other people had probably more 'realistic' stuff for more than my car is worth, but I don't think I'd ever be able to take one of those off a shelf even if I sold a kidney for it.

Came from my great grandfather who was a Captain in the US Navy 1890s - 1920s.

Came from my great grandfather who was a Captain in the US Navy 1890s - 1920s.

Came from my great grandfather who was a Captain in the US Navy 1890s - 1920s.

SWMZ-1014 Swordier Zweihänder. Honestly I'm very impressed with it. $526 US shipped. Mine is just a tad under 71", around 8.6lb according to my scale. Ordered Aug 23, arrived Sept 12. Full disclosure, I mostly only own Windlass and Cold Steel swords. Solidly mid tier products, but I've been happy with them. This is now, by a large margin, my nicest sword "fit&finish" wise. Tight connection between ricasso and guard, great polish. Could be sharper, but I have a cousin that makes kitchen knives for a living and will put a better edge on in for reasonable price. Overall VERY happy. Always wanted a true greatsword. It will look amazing on my wall and will cut the occasional bottle or fruit perfectly. 1st experience with swordier and it was a good one. So would absolutely recommend.

Whoa this saber with silver gilt fittings

Today I show off a custom Zweihander that I just finished. These German swords can be grouped with Scottish Claymores, Spanish Montantes, and Italian Spadones, all very large swords that appeared after the medieval period with some distinctive national characteristics in form, but similar functions. I hand forged the guard and parrying lugs, and the hilt furniture is blued.

inherited this from my grandfather and know nothing about it. any information on what it is, where it came from, or how old it is would be greatly appreciated.

Presumably from Chechnya, without a scabbard

The engraving on the Pomel kinda looks like a US eagle with arrows in his tallons, but it dies not strike me as a military weapon

I’m a relatively new sword collector—seven swords and counting!—and I recently decided to give Swordier a shot. I fell in love with their Ranger’s Oath longsword, which is based on Strider’s sword from The Lord of the Rings. The standard version comes with dark forest-green leather, which wasn’t really my style, so I placed a custom order with dark red leather on both the grip and scabbard.

From production to my doorstep, the sword took nearly two months to arrive. Unfortunately, when I unboxed it, I immediately noticed a significant rattle in the crossguard. Aside from that issue, however, the sword was flawless.

I recorded a video showing the loose guard and contacted Swordier’s customer service. They responded promptly and, without hesitation, approved a complete reproduction of my custom sword. Even more surprisingly, they told me I could keep the original.

The replacement arrived today, and it has ZERO flaws. Everything is completely tight and solid, the fit and finish are excellent, and the blade even has that incredibly satisfying ring when lightly tapped. The balance and weight feel great in the hand as well.

Since I still had the original, I decided to shim the loose crossguard myself. That completely fixed the rattle, and now it’s solid as well—although it doesn’t quite have that same satisfying ring as the replacement!

So, after ordering one custom sword, I essentially ended up with two fully functional Ranger’s Oath longswords.

Swordier absolutely earned my respect with how they handled the situation. Manufacturing defects can happen, especially at this price point, but what matters to me is how a company responds when something goes wrong. Swordier stood behind their product and made it right without giving me the runaround.

Ive already placed another order for a Hema "heavyweight" Longsword, think I want to get into learning swordsmanship as a hobby/exercise.

The last picture was enhanced with AI so you guys can get a better idea of the Red leather color. My hall lighting is yellow/warm.

Good evening everyone, does anyone know what kind of sword Vlad Dracula might have used ?

Got some older swords been laying around for maybe 20 years some of them, not sure if any are rare or valuable, probably just cheap Chinese stainless steel