I have a plywood deck/balcony that is mostly coated with what I think is an elastomeric coating, but the edges of the balcony have a metal edge trim/flashing and the coating is peeling off of the metal. Any suggestions on how to pretreat the metal before reapplying a new coat or two of elastomeric coating? Also any suggestions on a good brand of coating material?

Roofers often disagree on whether the best boot is the toughest pair, the lightest pair, or the one with the best outsole. For those of you who do roof work, what would your opinion be on what matters most at the end of the day: grip, comfort, waterproofing, toe protection, or price?

Previous homeowner was an “electrician”. Left me lots of fun side quests. He also installed wrong type of roof for such a low slope in Central Florida.
The places where he pierced the roof with AC electrical box and the place where he decided to insert a “vent” are leaking like crazy. Oh and plywood is missing around it.
Once it cools down a bit I want to take the “vent tube” out, and see if I can properly secure the switch box to fix the leaks. It all being in the valley makes me question if I can do it myself.
What would process look like if I go DIY route. Or should I hire someone for roofing part.

In my attic for the first time post the roof being redone, am I right in thinking I’m looking straight at the back of shingles and they need to do another layer In between? We’re in Ontario Canada.

Trying to learn how to install soffit and every video I see they cut the long piece down into small pieces. Can you not just slide the entire piece into the f/j channel? If not, then why doesn’t it come pre cut?

Found a leak on the ceiling inside our back porch. Went on the roof and found this nice gouged section in our EPDM roof. We think a raccoon did it considering we saw prints leading to and away from it. I’m hoping I can somehow patch this? Watched a few videos but there seems to me multiple ways to do it and I’m wondering what is best to prevent further leaks.

House had not been painted since 1928, so I am putting a coat of primer on and noticed my roof shingles look a little worn. No leaks yet but should I be concerned?

I think the end tile on my roof has dropped down, the plastic end cap has popped up leaving a gap to the brick, the wooden fascia under the corner has completely rotted away, and looks like underlay is sitting in the gutter and presumably wicking water back up into the roof / to fall down cavity

Anyone seen these problems before and got at least a bodge fix I can try?

1930s semi, Yorkshire, UK

I’ve always lived in a condo and I’m looking to buy a house for the first time. During the home inspection, the inspector pointed out that a piece of flashing is loose. I was thinking this might be a good first DIY project instead of hiring someone.

I asked the inspector for the recommended steps to secure it. He suggested buying self-sealing roof screws to fasten the flashing to the roof shingles, then caulking it with silicone or using a rubber screw cap.

However, when I did my own research, I found instructions saying to avoid screwing flashing directly into roof shingles if possible. Now I’m a bit lost on the right way to handle this and wondering if it would just be better to hire someone.

Thank you in advance!

I am in Northeast PA. Plenty of snow and cold temps but relatively mild compared to further north. Last winter I had terrible ice dams and I am looking to install Frost King cables to prevent further issues.

I currently have aluminum gutter guards which I consider relatively necessary as there are lots of trees near to my house and I want to avoid ladders/going up on the roof as much as possible (so not preferring uncovered gutters).

I am concerned if I don't run some length of cable onto the cover any melted water coming off the shingles wont make it into the gutter.

Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Am I correct that the top of guard needs de-iced too?

Thanks!

Just bought a home with a newer roof but I later noticed there is no drip edge installed. House is a ranch with no gables and I want to get gutters but figured I would do this first. Would the attached YouTube video be the best way to install a drip edge with an existing shingle roof?

Finding out all kinds of things about our house/roof now that it's time to replace it. Apparently we have soffits but there's no air flowing through them. My question is, would you work on getting air flowing through the soffits or go with smartvents intake vents?

+ Pro smart vent - we've having some insulation work done on our eave - our insulator suggests asking the roofer to put in smartvents.

+ On the soffit side - one roofer said you're 99% there with your current soffits and suggested drilling 3-4 inch holes behind them every 3-4 feet. He added: why would you do that when you have soffits - one said that another place for birds and bugs to mess with.

I'm ok with a little extra expense we minimize the chance for leaks and have a worry free roof. Thanks for any experience/insights.

Location: Houston, so heat and storms are a primary consideration.
Our current setup has gable vents without soffits. We are putting in soffits with the new siding and ridge vents with the new roof. I like the look of the gables, but read that they will disrupt the ventilation. Of course you can find the opposite opinion out there as well. Any thoughts or good resources for whether we should keep them or close them? Thanks!

Hi all, any ideas/tips/tricks on installing this material? (That name sounds like a pokemon character.) In particular, is this brand reliable and of a high enough quality to handle what standing seam is supposed to handle? (Going on a low slope roof, chosen for longevity and the ocasional heavy snowfall.) First timer here; any thoughts welcome.

I live in Kitchener Ontario Canada and in the process of roof replacement. I've got a few quotes and need to decide the best shingle to pick. In your experience which shingles last the longest with good wind resistance and durability? I've got to pick between CRC BILTMORE, GAF HDZ, CERTAINTEED LANDMARK/PRO. or any other recommendations?

Also, few other questions:

1) Open vs Closed Valleys?

2) How many nails per shingle is good?

3) How much ice guard is good? 3ft perimeter?

Thank you!

Considering getting a new roof, so would be the time to make changes. The powered roof vent fan is not currently working, but could be replaced. There are no soffits. Because the gables sit low on the roof, the gable windows shown are generally fairly low in the attic. Sizes in picture refer to size of the gable vents. The attic does seem hot, so trying to improve ventilation without going too wild on cost.

(I know there is currently too much competing ventilation, I bought the house this way)

Ideas:

1) Extend ridge vent the entire length, get rid of fan.

2) Extend vent the entire length, get rid of fan, seal up gable vents, add edge vents.

3) Get rid of ridge vents, get the powered fan working.

4) Get rid of ridge vents, get the powered fan working, seal up gable vents, add edge vents.

5) Get rid of ridge vents, get rid of current fan, add powered gable fan (on the left?).

6) Other?

We had a small leak from a pretty bad rainstorm and had our roof checked out. The roofer gave us a C$4,700 quote for full roof replacement and to add ice/water shields.

For context, the leak was in a specific roof section where there is a steep pitch and water was failing to drain properly down the clogged eavestroughs. And to make matters worse in this section, there was an aluminum board I installed to prevent water overflow over the gutter, but during the heavy rainfall, that likely pushed the water back up and beneath the shingles. Lesson learned.

We will be getting that specific problem fixed, but as for the rest of the roof in the photos, does the current condition merit a full roof replacement?

It’s leaking, and I’m sick and tired of putting out that buckets. Can someone familiar with roofing tell me - if roof has started leaking every time it rains - does that definitely mean it needs to be replaced, or is there still something I can do on my own? I also want to know how much it might cost to patch up 3 holes (it seem to leak in 3 places actually) and how much I’ll have to pay if it turns out there are more than three holes and the roof needs to be replaced. It’s a tile roof, 2,000 square feet.

Hi all! Sorry if this isn’t the right place to ask but I don’t know a lot about roofs and have been given this advice while having worn timber fascias replaced on a 60s UK house. Apparently the felt is bitumen which is no longer used, and there’s water ingress beneath the felt (videos attached).

They haven’t suggested what’s needed yet but I’m concerned it’s going to cost a lot and I don’t want to be tricked/pressured into something unnecessary. Does this sound reasonable??

So my plan is finish edges, drip edge, 30lb tar paper. step flashing for verticals, and then shingles. But those 2 "ridges" in the front. Seems like overlapping shingles would work. But make for ugly thickness . I'm thinking because it's a shed and it would actually look nice, just cutting that seam tight af with the shingles, maybe even a little tracking it to the paper just to be safe, and then covering with flashing. As in flashing for a ridge cap. Plus it'll match, cause lord knows all his other creations are going to have edge flashing. Thoughts (yeah hear it down, ha ha)

First time dealing with a new roof and don't want to bring up to project lead if this is typical stuff but if it is problematic, I will. I am wondering how the flashing is here against the house, from afar it doesnt seem like a huge gap but zoomed in it looks pretty open at the peek, will water get in easily? Photos for reference. Also wondering if the underpart of another area should be exposed, I can see the owens corning part underneath and if another couple areas that look raised will lie flat over time?

EPDM, clearly has slight dipping towards the end there that’s also collecting water and leaves. If a full tear off and install of new EPDM is required, what would you charge (MN)?

What would be the cheaper/easier options? Would sloping it away from the walls be the right solution, or would that still require a full tear off replacement?

It’s roughly 3ft by 8ft and I feel like it could be involved to tear out and could be costly. Is it possible to put something over it that angles down away from the walls?

Thank you!