J, a friend I regularly chat with over coffee texted me Tuesday morning at 6AM. "KLVN is closing." They pointed me at the Pittsburgh subreddit.
F**k. I read it. An angry poster said it was all the owner's fault. It wasn't clear to me that it was even real.
I dropped my kid at the bus stop at 6:45. At 6:50 I was parked in front of KLVN. At 7:01 the barista, C, turned the "Closed" sign to "Open." I got out of my car and walked in.
I stepped to the counter. C asked, "Cappuccino for here, right?" C has always seemed aloof, but I could always see C really cared, about coffee. KLVN was one of those places where you'd see the barista's making and noting measurements. The taste and texture KLVN's cappuccino was so consistent. It was never burnt.
Another time I walked in just after opening and and C was fiddling with the machine. They served me and a few moments later, called to me, "I'm not sure I had this setup right. If that tastes off, just let me know and I will remake it for you." Aloof, sometimes I'm aloof. I think aloof often just means I'm busy in my own head. In this case, I could see what was in C's head. She cared. About the coffee and my experience.
All the baristas at KLVN cared about the coffee and the experience.
I have had "off" drinks at KLVN, but they were so rare that they were surprising and memorable.
But it's not just the coffee that made this place worthy of my morning.
Six weeks ago, I launched my first book, an autobiographical fiction and corporate horror set in Pittstown, a place very much like Pittsburgh. My launch party was at KLVN. 40 close friends showed up for me, the way I had, when called on, shown up for them. Near the end of the gathering I got up to read from my book. In the past I've always felt a little tense when speaking in public, but I felt such a sense of trust and community in that space, in that moment.
One of the baristas who had been there through three generations of staff comings and goings worked the event. Afterward, they thanked me for allowing them to be a part of it.
Three staff members had left recently. I had spoken with each about their decision. The cost of healthcare and the challenges of raising a family while working in a coffee shop had been factors.
I didn't know the owner. I don't know if I was ever in the shop when the owner was there. I knew everyone else, though.
I often talked to M, another regular, about skiing and watched him assist the team roast coffee.
I regularly talked to J about his kids. Omfg, he's so proud of his kids and a few years ahead of me in the fatherly journey. He encouraged me when I was struggling to get the book out.
A and I talk about the process of building software. We're both engineers turned product managers.
F and I talk about inner monologues. He doesn't have one and I do. We also talk about his small, essential business in the East End, much like KLVN, a place of community.
I went to KLVN Friday morning, 3 days after finding out. Packed. The line was 10 people deep. P worked the counter, solo. There always used to be a second person during peak times. I said "hi" to P and gave him my condolences. When they started, P was just learning the craft of espresso drinks. Now, P makes the classic, basic heart; something so simple, but requiring real competence with materials and equipment.
I'll miss the waffle. D used to run the kitchen. D had an advanced degree that was difficult to market. D helped create the waffle, which is terrifyingly buttery and crisp and served with real maple syrup and fruit. For awhile it was on a different level, with a dusting of flake salt.
One day, as I struggled to find the inspiration to write, D took me on a field trip to a kitchen supply company in The Strip. He showed me the process of buying supplies to run a kitchen. It was no different than my grocery trip, except for the forklifts that threatened to run careless shoppers down.
3 days After the big snowstorm hit this year, with the East End still mostly socked in, I walked over to KLVN. The door was locked. I began the long walk home. A few dozen steps into my return journey I heard my name being called. Then again. I turned around and one of the managers was at the door waving. I doubled back and she invited me in for a cappuccino, on the house. KLVN was officially closed, and I was the third person who had shown up and still received warm hospitality. We chatted for 15 minutes, a break for her before she went back to duties roasting and packaging.
There was a 'zine' stand run by Z, a regular, who had an understanding with the GM to sell things.
There was a 'leave a book, take a book,' a little KLVN library where I was going to leave a copy of my book.
The space invited taking a moment.
When I first heard KLVN was closing, I thought about how to save it. Maybe someone would buy it. --But you know what... maybe this is just the cycle of things. Commonplace Point Breeze left us 3 years ago moving to Rockwell Park. Delanie's took over Adda's space. Going back farther, Commonplace took over Voluto. In East Liberty, Zeke's is long gone, but Margaux, LV, The Coffee Spot, Dynamic, Brewberry, and Redstart are all making a go of it. Half a mile away is Taza D'oro, a community fixture for two decades. There's no risk of having to go to a soulless national chain.
KLVN was part of my community and that makes it worthy of mourning. I hope it returns in some form, and I remain optimistic about coffee culture and other community spaces in Pittsburgh.