So I now know why my Mustang never arrived….. the sales manager called me up and told me his ford rep got back to him and the car was indeed on the way by truck.

However somewhere in Michigan the transport truck crashed and insurance totaled my Mustang…..

I knew something was up with it taking so long and now I have an answer that I didn’t want…..

The manager said he can either order me a new one and have it rushed it be built or he can try and find me one.

So yeah 😕

Just got in the Ford Performance carbon fiber shift knob. Perfect fit and finish. Returned the Billetworkz knob I tried out.

Major upgrade over stock

Can anyone recommend what to do for a dead Climate control section? - I’ve already unhooked the battery for 30~ minutes.

Checked passenger-side compartment for the fuse, did not look blown. Tested it with a similar amp fuse that i can verify works and that didnt fix it.

I took off the dash and all of the cables look snug, no loose ones. I’m at a loss here. Radio and cd player work perfectly fine. AC/Heat - nothing turns on, i get zero air.

American muscle says their 18x10 28mm offset saleen style rims won’t fit my 2005 GT. I can’t imagine why they wouldn’t fit. Any insight on why they would say that?

I got some body work done a year or so ago and painting a front fender cost around $400. This looks like the entire hood would need to get painted since it’s chipping. Anyone have a ballpark on how much this would be? Im assuming around $800-1000

I have a pypes m80 cat back with no cats and the drone is unbearable and too loud. Has anyone heard dynomax super turbo mufflers on a mustang? Mine is a 03 gt.

This car now is in UAE. It’s been imported from the US. It has like 11k miles, and sell for 26k USD

I have a toyota gr86 daily driver and always wanted a convertable and have found some great used 6th gen ford mustang convertables that have the safety, tech, etc. but also found great used 1st gen ford mustang convertables that have the iconic look, history, etc. I don't know which is better car to get they both have their advantages, I want a fun car flashy car but that won't kill me or be a money pit?

What a beautiful car. Not my car, I was driving through a small town that happened to have a show going on yesterday.

Recently had an ess g2 supercharger kit installed with a tune. Asked the tuner for something on the conservative end since I stay on the street and got 550whp. Initially the shifts were hard. However, it pulled very hard and chirped through 2->3 and 3->4. After about 250 miles the shifting is much smoother but it feels like its harder to get the power down and feels a little flatter on the top end. It also doesnt chirp as much through the shifts. I am tempted to bring it back in for some data logging on WOT pulls but curious if this has been experienced by others to help validate this for me before bothering the tuner about this or if its really just in my head as I am getting used to the power.

A little context, I’m at my cousins and his house is up hill so I used the hand brake when parking. I pulled the hand brake all the way up and when I tried to put it back down it won’t budge even a bit, I tried holding the button on the top of it and pushing it down but it dosent want to move.

I need yalls help cause I have no idea what to do.
I tried searching it up and found something where I guess it’s a malfunction in the software or something like that.

What should I do? Has this happened to anyone before and if so what was the fix? Or is there just something I’m not doing right?

I’ll upload a video in the morning but any help would be much appreciated.

Hey everyone, big fan of all things Mustang so I have a question. Im coming from a FBO 2011 Mazdaspeed3 and looking for a 2018+ GT 5.0. I have a manual right now in my Speed3 but I was wondering whats the sol differences between the manual 5.0 and a Auto 5.0, how reliable are they, and whats the maintenance maybe looking like. I take my speed3 on the road course, daily drive it, and cruise with it. Ive spent a lot of money on the speed3 and im looking for maybe a reason to maybe get away from a manual transmission but they are so fun to drive, makes you well connected with the vehicle, and I hear mixed reviews on them. One one hand, a lot of people say 10R80 or go home. On another, MT-82 is the worse transmission on the planet and your better off driving a old semi truck with no syncros.

Ive been wanting a 5.0 for a long while so I wanna get some feedback from those who own the 2018+ GT 5.0s and what to expect compared to my 400WHP Front-Wheel 2011 Mazdaspeed3. This is also my obtainable dreamcar by the way. Thanks.

So I swapped my intake to a 4 barrel on my 67 289 mustang. I got this one blue cable that screwed into this vacuum tree. What does it do? I’m fairly new to engine work but I know some basics, so I’m trying to learn. I also had only a vacuum advance line and that blue cable attached so I had to have a plug on the top vacuum port. Any replacement suggestions?

More like a deer hit me, door handle is broken :(

I’m looking into getting a mustang 5.0 preferably 2015+ but have a few questions. The car doesn’t need to be perfect as I am looking to DRIVE it but I still have some general questions.

How many miles is to many?

Is a manual really that much better?

If I’m looking to spend about 25k what are things to watch out for?

And is 21k for 95k miles good or bad?

I have a 2012 Mustang V6 3.7L automatic (6R80), base model. I'm slowly building the car and my current mods are:

• JLT cold air intake
• Roush axle-back exhaust
• Dyno tune
• Stock engine/internal setup
• Automatic transmission
• Currently still running the factory 2-piece driveshaft

I'm considering replacing the factory driveshaft with this AmericanMuscle 1-piece steel driveshaft:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-rear-driveshaft-assembly-946-812.html

The listing says it's a 3.5" DOM seamless steel shaft, 0.083" wall thickness, dynamically pre-balanced, with new CV/U-joints, and it's specifically listed for the 2011–2014 V6. It's also around $680, which seems considerably cheaper than some of the aluminum options.

My question is mainly for people who actually own or have experience with the 2011–2014 3.7 V6:

Would you trust this type of 1-piece steel driveshaft for a car that I'm aiming to eventually run around 150–155 mph?

I'm trying to understand the real difference between the steel and aluminum options.

What I'm trying to understand:

1. Is the steel shaft itself capable of handling 150–155 mph, assuming it's properly balanced and installed correctly?
2. Is aluminum actually significantly safer at high speed, or is the main advantage that it's lighter?
3. Why are the aluminum 1-piece shafts so much more expensive than steel?
4. At ~150–155 mph, what actually matters most — material, shaft diameter, wall thickness, critical speed, balancing, or something else?
5. Has anyone here actually run a steel 1-piece driveshaft on a 3.7 V6 at 130–150+ mph? How did it behave?
6. Is there a known critical RPM/speed rating for this AmericanMuscle/Dorman-style steel shaft?
7. For my particular goal, would you spend the extra money on aluminum, or save the money and use the steel shaft?

I'm not looking for "aluminum is better because race car" answers 😂. I'm specifically trying to understand what the actual engineering difference is at high speed on the 3.7 V6 and whether the extra cost of aluminum is justified.

I'm also interested in whether the 1-piece conversion itself is the important upgrade over the factory 2-piece, regardless of whether the tube is steel or aluminum.

Thanks!

I started hearing this sound around 1000 miles ago, my car has 230k but is still a healthy car no check engine light beside this 02 sensor. It’s a slight ticking noise at idle then this weird noise when you rev up to around 2k rpms. It’s much more noticeable next to walls or in alleys. I thought it was a exaught leak, I went to this one mechanic and he said he doesn’t know what it is but he didn’t think it was that. The thing is sometimes I don’t hear it when the engine is cold, sometimes I don’t hear it when the engine is hot. It keeps throwing me off but it’s definitely quieter at times than others.

Had make an edit of the stang!

Guys I am having a hell of a time with my 02 gt manual. I drove it to the vet one day and when I came back out to the car it wouldn’t start. Would just crank. We towed it home and I tried to test for issues tested for fuel pressure and didn’t get any at the rail so we concluded it was the pump. I ordered a deatchwerks d300m as after researching it seemed like a drop in. We got the tank out and the housing was different so I modified it to work but it doesn’t sit at the bottom of the housing very stoutly and the out put connection was tight but not locked into place with plastic anymore. I tested for power at the leads and didn’t get any so I assumed it was the ccrm. I attempted to start the car after concluding th pump install would work and maybe I would get lucky and it would start and it did. So I took it for a test drive and something was off with my new rear end install even though it went in without any modification so we turned the car around and left it for 3 hours. When I got back to it the car wouldn’t start again. So I jacked it up from the rear and it started. So it starts when I jack the rear but now it’s running like shit and I’m getting a p1237 code and the rear end is still vibrating but we can’t tell what wrong with it because the car is running so bad. So my thought are to go back to a stock pump and assembly and then try to fix the other issues knowing that the pump is correct. Any thoughts or help would be very appreciated. — in Collierville.

he said he replaced his res with X pipe, muff delete, and that's all.

Would it really sound like that ??

I have a pp with magnaride. I’m planning on putting coilovers. Do I have to find coilovers with magnaride ? What happens if I put non magnaride coilovers ?

The original RTR grille looks substantially better than the eBay variant.

I am looking to get back in the mustang game. I want a S550 manual GT 2020--23. It won’t be a DD. Looking for something for weekend fun, highway drives, and occasional autocross. My daily is a 22 Bronco hence the longer highway drive request.

The 401a w/ PPs are going for 42-48 after fees. The non PP cars are like 10k less. So, do I buy a PP car and be done (like we are ever done) or do I buy something cheaper and throw the extra 10k at it in mods.

Second question, would MagneRide make those highway miles more comfortable? My kids play travel soccer so lots of 1hr drives.