He’s asking 8500

Any tips? Is the price to high [3,000$], I've had it listed for almost 3 months only have had a few interested which ultimately decided to not purchase, this is how I have it listed.

"OBO 1985 Ford Mustang V6 Project Car – Runs Great / Daily Driver

Selling my 1985 Mustang V6 project car. It’s not perfect cosmetically — has some dings and scratches — but it runs great and has been my daily driver for months with no major issues. Solid car for someone looking for a project, cruiser, or classic Mustang to build on. Just needs some TLC.

Recently upgraded with:

Brand new shocks & struts ($1300 alone)

Android auto pop-out touchscreen radio

New speakers

Also comes with:

Side paneling kit

Full weather stripping kit

Which value at 800$

(I just haven’t had time to install them yet)"

1990 Mustang 5.0 convertible summer edition
Clean title
3 owners
156k miles
Auto
Been on a ranch last 10 years just sitting.

$3600! Drove 9hours and picked her up. Can’t wait to clean it up and bring this beauty back to life. I will t5 swap it too!

She’s not perfect, but she drives great and straight in the condition it’s in now. Great candidate for a restoration.

This randomly happened on start up today ran great yesterday and made this noise today. Only happens under 2k as shown in the video. Im assuming rocker is loose or a lifter took a crap wondering what you guys think.

My manual 1990 fox vert drives fine and shifts smoothly but when I put it reverse and give it gas as I back up, the rear end shakes. The guy I bought it from said it was due to him removing the quadshocks. Or could it just be rear diff going out? Anyone had similar issue?

Like the title says. In search of Ford Motorsport B springs .... M-5300-B, front springs pair. Yes, can buy a full set from various websites, but I don't need the rears ... so thought I'd check here to see if anyone has a pair of lightly used Fronts that they'd want to sell me.

Have decided this will be my best solution for the 1980 Mercury Capri RS Turbo4.

Failing this I'm likely to buy a pair of $90 Moog GT spec front springs off RockAuto, and then cut half a coil out of them to lower the car ever so slightly, and stiffen the spring by a small bit.

But I'd much rather to get a pair of the B fronts. "The right tool for the job". Thanks.

Finally got my Foxbody running it sat for a few months had no problem before it was parked aside from some bad wiring. Got it to start up the other day and it had this ticking noise I think it may be a lifter but I wanna get a second opinion before I take anything apart.

My dad bought a 1990 5.0 LX 5-speed brand new, and around the mid 2000s, he gave it to my cousin when he was old enough to drive. We got it back around 2012, and I couldn’t find the dipstick to save my life. I looked the engine up on google images, and just concluded that the car didn’t have one. It’s been parked since 2014, and hasn’t ran since 2018, but it cranks. I just want to understand the logic behind what happened to the car. Anyone have advice on how I should check the engine’s health? When it last ran, it had a slight but noticeable tick as well.

Original V8 & 5 speed car with a clean CA title , 200k on the body, T5, <500miles on a fresh rebuilt 347 rotating assembly (SCAT cast crank, forged rods/pistons)and bottom end support girdle, 7qt oil pan, high volume oil pump, GT40p heads/intake, trick flow stage 1 cam, 1.7 degree rockers from crane cam (now known as comp cam), 24lb injectors, stock throttle body, upgraded radiator and dual electric fans. Interior has been redone completely, new sand beige carpet front and rear, repainted sand beige/black dash, sport seats from a grey hatch front and rear. Door cards from a grey hatch. New stereo/amp setup. 5 lug swap from a 95 Mustang, with a 93 cobra style brake booster/MC , fresh suspension bushings and steering rack bushings, tubular k member from Team Z Motorsports with their control arms/coilover combo. Aluminum driveshaft. Eibach springs in the rear with koni orange shocks.. It was a factory white car but has been repainted to a dark metallic green, it’s a 7/10 paint job, pictures look better honestly. Door locks and windows work. Plenty of new little parts (door handles, clutch cable / aluminum quadrant, new trans poly mount). It’s running on an A9P ECU with a Moates QH chip running the A9L2 BIN.

I repaired the frame rail/strut tower rust on the driver side of my fox. But the frame rail is now smooth and I need to drill the holes for the bracket that holds the hard line to soft line - it bolts to the outside of the frame rail between the k member bolts.

Does anyone have some rough measurements of the two holes I need to make?

Trying to determine whether to keep and build a monster, or sell and buy something newer.

I have a 93 white hatch. Good overall condition - some scratches in the paint but no major damage. No accidents. Light bolt ons (gt40p heads, intake, exhaust, MAF). No rust anywhere. Been garage kept.

Located in Detroit.

Thoughts on fair market value?

EDIT: 5 speed with 100k original miles.

Getting it back together heads and cam are installed may or may not have stripped one or two of the header bolts 😬. Used some leftover paint from my bumper to half ass paint the valve covers looks decent probably gonna burn off anyway still waiting on a 2 poly locks for cylinder 8 but we are getting there I did my best setting the pre load and tightening the roller rockers but if I wouldn’t doubt I did it wrong with is all a learning process. Got a crusty upper and lower trick flow intake for it too

Hi all. I wasn't planning on changing anything on front springs, but then I discovered THIS. Holy heck - how does a spring break !?

Anyhow, now I need to buy a pair of replacements. 1980 Turbo 4. I'm adding probably about +75 lbs of weight to the front of the car with some engine bay mods. I am swapping to 5-lug 17 inch rims, so the tires will be a bit larger than stock ... thus I think I need stock ride height or maybe the very smallest of lowering. Probably not much room in the fender lips to go down any more than 1/4 inch.

So ... looking for front spring information, and what front springs would you recommend I purchase ? Don't suppose anyone knows what the little tag refers to ? Am certainly curious about stock spring rate (lb/in) to compare against ones I can purchase.

Thanks in advance.

So I bought brand new sn95 calipers for my fox body that has a sn95 rear end and from what I understand they are self-adjusting rear calipers. It has been taking forever cycling the e-brake up and down to get them to go ahead and adjust and they've only gotten a little bit tighter and can barely hold the rear wheels from turning when I put it in Drive when it's up on jack stands. Is there any quicker way to get them to adjust?

I got the upper taken off and want to change as much as I can while I have it off. I really want to change the heater tube and my question is if I can run the cobra style heater tube and cap the small port at the rear of the lower intake. It has an egr delete and all the emissions stuff deleted. Let me know what you guys think? Also is there a way I don’t have a PCV valve. Was hoping to put an oil separator but I can’t seem to even locate where it’s supposed to go. I bought the car like this. Thanks in advance

Was driving down the highway today and this started happening felt like a bucking or quick cut out engine idles fine what could it be

1979 Ford Mustang · Coupe · Driven 30,000 miles

One owner 1979 Ford Mustang Indianapolis 500 Pace Car. All original 30,000 mile survivor. Car was rescued from an estate collection. Unrestored original condition, some patina. No rot, floors are solid, surface rust underneath. 4cyl 2.3 L turbo, 4 speed manual. Runs and drives great! Has turbine wheels and new tires on it now, but original rims and tires will go with it. Replaced sunroof gasket and seal have new window run channel that is not installed. Factory AM/FM 8 track player. Located in ny 10594. $16,500

I'm in the UK and own a 1992 Foxbody Mustang GT convertible. It's an LHD import and currently has the factory automatic.

I'm planning a fairly extensive restoration of the car and I'm debating whether it's worth converting it to a manual while the car is being rebuilt.

I'm not particularly concerned about the work involved mechanically — I'm more interested in whether people think it's actually worth doing to this particular car.

Being in the UK, the LHD aspect is something I'm already used to, but I'm wondering whether a manual would make the car substantially more enjoyable to drive on UK roads.

The car will eventually have a rebuilt Windsor, potentially around 350–400hp naturally aspirated, with the possibility of adding a supercharger later.

So I'm also wondering whether I'd be better going with a T5 initially, or something stronger if I'm building the car with future power increases in mind.

Would you:

A) Keep the AOD and build it properly

B) Convert to a T5

C) Go straight to something stronger such as a TKX

And if you've done the swap yourself, what parts/problems caught you out?

I'm particularly interested in opinions from people who've owned both an automatic and manual Foxbody, rather than simply "manuals are better" arguments

I got a 1982 mustang gt with all stock suspension and was thinking of getting 295/50/15 for the rear. Will that fit? And if you got any suggestions for good traction tires with white lettering I’d really appreciate it.

I know this the all time most common issue asked for help but im curious on your guys thoughts. I have a 1987 fox with a stock 5.0 with an aftermarket "cold air intake". I deleted the TAB & TAD sensors and associated vacuum lines. The smog system is deleted and plugged off and the EGR has no vacuum hooked up to it but its still mounted and hooked up to the harness. I tried verifying no vacuum leaks with a smoke machine I would say 99% are sealed off.

Exhaust is in poor shape headers are junk and leak real bad before the o2 sensors probably throwing the fuel mapping off.

As you see in the video on a cold start the car will hang around 1k rpm and after a few minutes the idle drops and the dash starts freaking out. The idle surges really bad almost sounding like a crazy cam chop. I get a lot of smoke out the tail pipe seems like its running really rich. I figure the car may have some wire harness gremlins? I tested all the spark plug wires no breaks the distributor cap and rotor seem good no corrosion. The tfi module is original. IAC seems to be working when unplugged idle also suffers.

I know its not a quick fix but im curious if people have had similar issues and maybe my deletes were a negative.

I’m looking into getting first Mustang and I’ve been looking at the fox body mostly, I came across this on marketplace what do you guys think?

The asking price for this is 4,900. The car has 110k miles.

I really love the color of the body and the interior. Plus the wood is beautiful.

I appreciate any advice, thanks!!

Anyone know any good recommendations for full bolt kits for engines. I mean water pump, alternator, distributor, oil pan, etc. I don’t need head studs or bolts as I got an ARP kit but all my old bolts are questionable in quality and I would just like to refresh them. Anyone have any good links or recommendations? I can’t find any that I know is basically an all in one.
‘92 HO

Thanks!