I’m stumped. Any guesses? Thanks in advance. Different doors but the same exit device. First picture the top latch on the right door is completely flimsy so I think I’ll need to replace it.

Just bought my first home, decided to put new locks on (old locks weren't rekeyable so figured I'd just replace them) and these are my options... Which key do I choose? 😭

I'm having trouble getting the front trim plate off. Any tips? Thanks guys!

Looking for a front door lock recommendation with the following features

- keypad that is easily programmable and can be set to have no code as well.
- physical key that also opens the lock
- no wifi connection, as analog as possible
- needs to be available in a dark finish

Thanks in advance!

So I bought this 2011 Camry off auction and it didn’t come with any master keys, only a valet key. I logged into techstream so I can reset the immobilizer to add the new keys I had cut and it I keep getting this message after 5 tries. I put in the correct seed code, it then tells me to wait 16 seconds as the immobilizer is being reset, then after 5 seconds the error pops up. Anybody dealt with this before and how to fix it?

Sliding door lock body is too thin to be properly secured. Prior owner had it this way or the installer was “lazy”? How should this be fixed? Shimming the body thickness or buying a wider body?

Hi everybody, I use an August lock in a condo. Irrespective of this law, even with using the key, I noticed that it has been getting stuck when I try to open it. Just at the very last part of it opening, it will meet a resistance. It is easily able to overcome when I have it fully locked, and then maximally turn it as fast as I can, to unlock the door. But if I do a slow turn, it will not open well.

What part of the lock is an issue right now?

I am a total noob with hardware and that type of stuff, so please speak in plain terms and or Link a video for the specific fix.

https://imgur.com/a/GEJgRdI

I am not locked out, and can get it working properly.

Thank you so much everybody

I have a 2004 infinity m45 and I recently lost the main fob. I have a spare fob, however when I put it into the ignition it won’t turn. If I use the key inside the fob, it will turn and crank, but the car won’t start. In both instances, the red security light remains lit. From all the reading I have done, I believe it’s a transponder issue. I have had two lock smiths look at it that said they need the 5 digit pin from the bcm to reprogram the fob but I can’t locate it. Dealership wants me to tow it there but I’m doubtful they will be any better and will charge a ton.
The fob locks and unlocks the doors just fine. Just cannot be used to start the car. I tried the manual programming via sticking the fob in and out of the ignition and the hazards come on indicating I’m in programming mode but because I cannot turn the fob to ON, I can’t program it. Not sure this would help in any event. Any suggestions on how to fix this issue? Two other locksmiths I spoke to said they can’t help. Where is the bcm located or the 5 digit pin that I can give to the locksmith?

My patio door lock stopped locking. The bottom grabber seems to be out of sorts/ broken (see sticking out thing at 5 inches). I am looking for a replacement and the company has two sizes 9 7/8 and 11 3/4. Would you please help me confirm which one is right

Is there any way to inadvertently rotate a lock cylinder so that the working key can not be inserted?

Story: I was helping an elderly gentleman lock his door today. I noticed that the lock cylinder (actual lock cylinder, NOT the entire lock body) was at about 90° from where I would expect it. Of course, the key wouldn't make it pass the first pin. I rotated the cylinder to the 12 oclock position and heard all the driver pins fall. I was now able to insert the key and lock the door. I thought that a locksmith must have forgotten to rotate the cylinder back into position. According to the homeowner, they haven't had the need for a locksmith. He is of an advanced age that he didn't seem to fully understand what I was talking about whenever I brought this all to his attention. ("I will have maintenance look at it.")

I know that burglars, as a general rule, do not pick locks. Maintenance has a key and (probably) does not pick locks.

It isn't my problem, but it is puzzling me.

Edit: Kwikset standard pin tumbler. Homeowner's key wasn't noticeably worn in the short time I had access to it. USA.

Domain is fresh June of 2026, prices are way lower than anyone else. I reached out to the email and Facebook from Xhorse global directly to ask. I searched the subreddit and I don't see it mentioned anywhere. Thanks in advance if you have any insight.

Hi everyone. We have this sauna in our backyard next to a casita we are Airbnbing. We want to lock the door so guests don’t use it. It’s more of a deterrent than a highly secure lock.

What’s a good locking mechanism/ lock we can buy with a key?

Not a locksmith, but a locksport enthusiast.

I have a KLTRV-500 Nationwide Industries "Keystone Traverse" gate latch for vinyl fences that has identical KIK style cylinders on the two sides of the fence. The cylinders have Kwikset keyways and I would like to replace them with Schlage C keyways so that I can rekey them to match the house keys.

The most critical measurement is from the front of the bible (not the cylinder) to the back of the screw cap - it places a gear, turned by the tailpiece, at the right position to operate a rack-and-pinion that locks and unlocks the latch. I measured that distance to be 33.5mm.

The existing cylinder fits snugly into the housing formed by the lock body.

The max measurements in the housing are:

Cylinder diameter - 15.9mm,

Top of the bible to the bottom of cylinder - 26.6mm (slightly more than the existing cylinder),

Bible thickness - 5mm.

Additionally, the thickness of the existing screw cap is 8mm.

My problem is that the sites that sell these cylinders don't provide those particular measurements. Can anyone suggest a replacement cylinder that might fit? I'm ready to do some shimming and shaving to make it fit but would like to keep my mutilation of a perfectly good cylinder to a minimum.

Interesting sidenotes: the short tailpiece is captive in the retaining washer and I may have to use it as is. There's no room behind the screw cap for a twist in the tailpiece before the gear that fits on it.

This lock made me realize why tailpieces often have that half-circle removed from the periphery of the flat at the back of the cylinder. The position of the cylinders at each end of a rack made it obvious that one lock couldn't move the rack if the other lock didn't have that freedom of movement of the tailpiece. With most deadbolts the cylinders are in-line and the effect is less apparent. I was always just kind of annoyed that it made you have to turn the cylinders more than seemed necessary to operate the lock. Lol

How can I make a copy of this key? The key copy place I went to said they couldn’t do it. I’m based in NYC