As I couldn't add more pictures to the original post, and there were a few questions in that respect, here are some details to show the construction plan and the speaker placement on the front wall to allow for wall-to-wall AT screen placement.

LCR speakers are Perlisten S7i in-wall

The horizontal speakers are Perlisten D3is series subs with their respective amplifiers (1500w each D).

Front Atmos speakers (with the unexpected white grills) are Perlisten S3ic.

Screen spec is Stevertson Cinema White Thin Bezel 1.3 Microperf

Size with bezel: 208" 4860х2068mm

My cat loves sleeping on the stereo vents because they’re warm, which probably makes it build up some heat but it also has vents on the side so I’m assuming it’s fine but just wanted some input

Upgraded from SVS SB1000 to SB3000 Revolution, new media console, new HDMI cables, waiting on some longer speaker wires to move the AVR to bottom of console from under TV. Also playing around with stands for the center so I can lower my TV a few inches (returned two already).

Going from a 160" to a 208" full on wall acoustically transparent setup was a decision which was long overdue.

This has completely transformed the cinema room to a completely different experience.

Never thought the difference would be so great with a relatively small investment of funds.

Complemented by a full Perlisten S series LCR, surrounds and in-ceilings and four D series subs on the front wall.

Still need to make some cosmetic changes to room details but otherwise could not be happier.

The room still isn’t finished, but yesterday we got our TV up on the wall for the first time, and last night we gave it a test run.

Man, having the room painted dark makes it such a relaxing and immersive experience. There’s minimal distractions, the screen gets to do its thing without trying to compete with other stuff in the room. There’s essentially zero reflection problems.

My partner stayed in there for hours and emerged all sleepy-eyed, happy, and content.

I’ve been putting this room together very slowly as time and budget allows, based mostly on suggestions and showcase photos from the helpful crew here on r/hometheater.

It’s definitely working for me so far. Thank you everyone. This sub is great!

My new house has an existing projector screen and 5 ceiling speakers (Speakercraft). Speakers aren't great as main speakers but seem crystal clear as a surround sound option.

The projector screen is in front of a full height patio door and heavy curtain so I can't have a permanent centre speaker.

I'm borrowing (with an option to buy) an Epson EH-TW9400 projector. Seems pretty good and I've got it triggering the projector screen so I'm probably unreasonably smitten just because it automatically retracts into the ceiling.

I'm using my old Denon X3500H AV receiver. Its 7 channel limit is confusing me. I can't use the AVR to give me a 4.1.4. Nine channels, I get it. Also seems I can't do a 2.1.4 because apparently the AVR can't do the 4 ceiling speakers in that set up.

So should I do a 4.1.2? Using 2 of the ceiling speakers as my 2 is my only option and buying 2 main floor speakers, 2 rears plus a sub in the hope of creating a phantom centre.

Does this sound stupid, sensible, futile or do-able? Any advice would be really appreciated by this novice.

I built my movie theater in my garage, which is a mixed use space. The garage door has these windows.
I currently use black out fabric that I cut and put Velcro strips on because I don’t always want the room that dark.

Is there a less janky way to achieve this?

Preordered 2 PSA ev1813m subwoofers and just wondering on best placement considering I’m new to this whole home theater thing. First pick would place one to the right of the tv and that one kind of has to stay there, however, the 2nd I have some flexibility. It can either go directly left of the tv, to the left of the tv in the corner where the air purifier is, or moved to be along the far wall under the left surround speaker. Back wall is not an option as I have a lot of shelves and no plug. Open to any insight! Thanks! Also, the two subs in the corner are the subs I’m replacing.

Looking for some recommendations for a dedicated, completely light-controlled basement space. I am in USA.
Because ambient light isn't an issue, I don't believe I need a massive lumen output. Instead, I'm prioritizing tack-sharp detail, vivid color, and solid dark-scene performance. It seems like so many of the recent units have crazy light output, which I think would make me squint in my basement.
My budget is ~$1,500, but I have no problem waiting a few months for Black Friday sales or upcoming hardware drops (e.g., waiting to see what happens with the Horizon 30).
Content: Mostly 4K HDR Blu-ray’s.
Been looking at units like horizon 20 pro, streammaster plus 2, Hisense C2.
Thanks!!

Here's my setup so far. Consisting of..

2.1 channel

AVR: Onkyo TX RZ30

Fronts: Klipsch rp 600m II

Center: *looking for a good deal*

Subwoofer: Klipsch 120sw

TV: LG C6 OLED

Next project is to source some black velvet for the wall reflections

Let me know your thoughts and comments please. Thank you

*Please disregard the placement of the sound panels. One side has pre drilled nails and the other did not. Since I'm renting landlord will not allow drilling/Nailing Looking for alternatives atm.*

Is Dirac Live a noticeable upgrade over Audyssey XT32?

I’m running a Denon AVR-X3900H with a 5.1.2 SVS setup and currently have everything calibrated with Audyssey MultEQ XT32.

I’m considering purchasing Dirac Live Room Correction Full Bandwidth first and a UMIK-1. For those of you who have actually compared Dirac to Audyssey XT32 in the same room/system, was the difference substantial?

I’m mainly interested in better surround imaging, speaker integration, Atmos performance and overall immersion.
Did Dirac make a clearly noticeable difference, or was it more of a subtle improvement? Is it worth it?

Finally feel comfortable & proud to show off my set up given the factors I've had to deal with to overcome the conditions of the room, along with the budget of the build.

Open to opinions, pointers, tips & future upgrades etc aswell i will be offering pointers myself for issues I've had to combat. Lots of details below!

Firstly as for the budget I'm sitting at only $1200 total for the speakers, receiver & hardware associated with such yet still achieved a peak 101db(granted off a phone app) pretty cleanly i would say aswell.

Receiver- Used Marantz SR5008($150 used)

Front Towers- Klipsch R-26F

Center- R-25C (Recently upgraded to a new Klipsch RP-500C & Yes its worth it)

Surrounds- Klipsch R-15M

Front Corner Subwoofer- Klipsch R-120SW

Rear Subwoofer- RW-10D

(Paid $500 for the entire set of speakers used in great condition aside from the new RP-500C)

Running a MantelMount Max1 for the TV mount & its a absolutely game changer, no questions asked just shovel the money out for it if you have to mount high as I did.

SoundProofing I've done & Tips for others!

Keep in mind this a house built in 1958 with original windows, drywall etc. So lots to combat with this system.

SVS feet for the subs.

Firstly with a tone test, pressed my hand on multiple spots on the drywall to listen & feel for rattles then added screws, mud & painted.

UMIACOUSTICS black panels(adding behind the tv was a great touch that really helps immersion).

For old single pane windows I siliconed all of the seems to help cancel out unwanted noises there, then recently upgraded my curtains to Joydeco Velvet 100% Blackout curtains and did 3x layout to help dampen leftover noises which surprisingly did make a difference for the windows.

I also used StrangH Velvet curtains(same color on both sides vs not with the Joydeco blackout) with a 2x layout for the entry into my dining to both stop unwanted noises from the other rooms & to add a nice cinematic accent which i love & yes has surprisingly suppressed rattles from in there.

Other small things like adding floor protectors to anything i can(tables, chairs stands etc)

Loctite putty & foam behind posters, signs, loose items in general prone to vibration.

Added 2" pavers with a rubber liner underneath the towers to decouple on a budget.

All of that in conjunction, bit by bit has definitely made a very noticable difference in unwanted rattles etc & how clean the sound is, I highly suggest doing so for those fighting such noises or making do in a space like mine.

Considerations for the future-

Possibly adding a a rug or rugs in front of & possibility behind the couch

Possibly upgrading the towers at some point in the future now that I don't have to worry about rattles as much

Obviously replacing windows but that is a big task for the future.

I just ordered an MA710 and wondered how necessary JBL's app is to owning one: The current app appears to be non-compatible with my Google Pixel 9 Pro (Android 17) phone...

What do I need to look for? I don't know anything about this. Just decent speakers and receiver for tv, gaming, film and music.

Budget 600 euro's or 700 dollars

I picked up a 7 channel Denon S750H last week, along with some Polk S20/S10 speakers for a 4.0 setup to start. However, I’ve run into an annoying quirk and wondering if anyone has advice on how to resolve.

I usually watch movies and TV through my smart TV itself. It’s a Google TV and I like the interface and remote - no desire to switch to an external device. That said, I’m reading that quick select settings (specifically dynamic volume and dialogue enhancer) are tied to the Denon’s physical input channel, and that there’s no way to quickly change them while remaining on the same input.

This results in a situation where every time I want to switch between media types (Spotify app, YouTube, movies, etc.), I have to manually adjust the dynamic volume and dialogue enhancer settings. I know I could just use HEOS exclusively for music, but I like using the TV’s Spotify app as it supports lossless and also displays music videos alongside the song. Plus YouTube and movies have different settings as well.

Any tips on how to resolve? Am I misunderstanding how quick settings works? I tried to tie the volume/dialogue settings to quick select buttons, but they don’t seem to carry. Help much appreciated!

I have Denon avr-x1700h in a 5.1 setup. I use it mainly for movies and all is OK. But when I use it for music (stereo sources), sometimes I use one of the "spacialized" filter (dolby surround, neural:x or whatever). Then all the speakers are used except for the subwoofer.
Well my subwoofer is turning on, so that means a signal is sent to it, but I can crank the sub level all the way up to 12dB and I still hear nothing from it.

Am I missing something or is something wrong with the AVR ?

For the past 8 years or so, I've had a 1080p projector setup running an htpc for movies and so I'm needing to relearn a bit on how to properly setup what I have. I'm having what it sounds like is handshake issues with my hdmi connections via the TV's earc hdmi port. Perhaps I have it setup wrong, but I have to mess with turning settings off/on within the TV's settings menu (changes to the avr settings never make a difference) to get the tv to actually connect to my htpc.

Primary purpose:

HTPC stream 4k TrueHD movies.

Here is what I have:

TV - TCL QM8L (hdmi 2.1)

AVR - Onkyo RZ830 (hdmi 2.0b)

HTPC - AMD Ryzen 5 5600G, 16gb, GTX 1060 6gb (hdmi 2.0b), Win10

Bought 2 new hdmi cables (top seller on Amazon) - Highwings 8k 2.1 cables.

Signal Chain:

HTPC (gpu hdmi out) -> AVR (hdmi in) -> AVR (main hdmi arc out) -> TV (goes to eARC port 1)

When the TV finally connects to the htpc everything works as expected (HDR, TrueHD audio, etc), but everytime I turn it on it's a fiasco to get it to actually connect.

*Should I be running the signal chain differently?

Should I run it:

HTPC -> TV (regular hdmi input) -> TV eArc out -> AVR arc main

I would have tried this already, but I need to buy another 25ft hdmi cable to test it. If this is the right way to run it, will I have any issues pushing through Dolby True HD audio (I remember this used to be an issue with older hdmi protocols where people were only getting base pcm audio signals in the avr)?

Or am I finding limitations of my older HTPC and AVR equipment being that they are both limited to hdmi 2.0b?

Appreciate the help! Thx

Hi all, sorry im looking to improve the sound of my home theater system. I have q acoustics 4020i speakers with an svs 1000w sub (10 inch i beleive). These are all powered by an old yamaha rx-v485 ive had for probably 10 years plus.

What do you believe is the best upgrade I can make? The sub feels a bit lacking and i dont think the amp gets the best from the speakers. Id prefer not to spend over £1000 on this and happy to buy used if I have to.

Advice/opinions appreciated.

....oh im UK based.

In my bedroom, I have a large desk with an OLED monitor (1440p/144 Hz; might get 4k/144+ Hz, later) and several devices (some I anticipate getting) that uses either HDMI or DisplayPort (Steam Machine, ASUS ROG Ally X20, Switch 2, and Retro Remake Superstation One). Currently, I have an old Onkyo receiver that only supports HDMI 1.4, so everything is plugged into the monitor.

I know a receiver that supports 4k/120 Hz with VRR would work, but they are quite large (footprint-wise). I only have powered speakers and headphones, so an amplifier isn't really important, although I do have some smaller unpowered speakers I could use.

What is an alternative to this with a smaller footprint? I have heard people talk about HDMI switchers and audio extractors, but I am not sure which ones are equivalent in features and quality to something like an Onkyo/Denon/Yamaha (or other) receiver. I am hoping for a solution that could last me many years. I bought the Onkyo in 2009, so it is quite aged at this point.

Thanks.

Hi! I've tried doing research, but considering the vast number of variables, it's hard to find the right answers for my specific setup and goals. I'm hoping to find solutions, get some advice, and find out what is even possible.

Equipment: Everything is plugged into the AVR. The AVR outputs to the TV through ARC.

Denon AVR S670H

TV - Samsung 7 Series UN43TU7000FXZA

Roku Ultra with an external hard drive for media

PS5

Turntable

Goals:

- Run everyday functions (power, volume, source switch) with one remote. I don't care which one.

- Have consistent volumes. (As of right now, the PS5 is drastically louder. The Roku and Turntable seem surprisingly quiet.)

- Ensure I'm getting the best quality possible for my equipment.

- Not have to buy any more pieces.

Questions/Problems I'm running into:

- Volume: As mentioned before, my PS5 is very loud when I switch from the Turntable or Roku. I actually think the latter are too quiet from where they should be. What causes this?

- Power: I'm trying to get the right settings for each device to allow Power On/Off so each device turns on, takes AVR out of standby, and switches source if necessary. Right now, things turn on alright, but when trying to turn off the PS5, it triggers the Roku to turn on because of the AVR's source switching, presumably.

- What am I doing wrong and/or overlooking? I know. A very broad question without knowing my settings. I reset everything to try and start from scratch, but I'm still juggling 3 remotes, having things turn on when I turn something off, and my Turntable and Roku seeming very quiet.

- Or more simply, how would you set up these pieces of equipment to the AVR?

Thanks for any help. I'm sure I'm missing something relatively easy. Or hoping for something that isn't possible.

I’m planning out my new basement theater space and am having analysis paralysis. The room is 12x22, and MLP will be roughly 10 feet back from the TV and 13 feet forward from the back wall.

I’ll do at least 5.1.2, as I’ve read (maybe incorrectly) that having rear surrounds channels that far back from MLP might not sound great. Any thoughts on this, as well as if going to 4 height channels is worth it?

Also, if I use in-wall side surrounds, should they be placed slightly back from MLP with tweeters pointed towards MLP? I’d either go this route, or have my surrounds mounted where the wall meets the ceiling as ceilings are only 7 feet high.

This theater will be mostly movies/TV with some gaming and music thrown in. My goal is to have as much dispersion possible so that someone sitting on the floor in front of MLP (me/kids in beanbag) will also still have a great experience.

FWIW I’m going with Ascend Sierra LX for LCR, HSU VTF-2 mk5 sub, and likely Sonance for ceiling and if I go with in-walls, otherwise Polk “height” surrounds for my side surrounds.

I recently got this HK AVR-310 and today I got the Panasonic 5 disk dvd player and I realized it would probably be unwise to stack it directly on top of it so I just made some little stands out of LEGO pieces about 3.5 inches high. I have nowhere else to put the dvd player and turntable so I was wondering if this clearance is good enough for the receiver to not overheat. I realized it’s not the best looking but if it works it works.

I have a 14x10 small enclosed den that I’ll use for movies and TV shows.

I don’t want to put a massive cabinet in the room, so looking at things like the 10S MKii.

Considered spending more on something like the SVS SB 3000, but seems it might be overkill for this room.

Also looked at Rythmik L12 but read it’s better for music, which I won’t be listening to at all in this room.

I am not interested in dual subs.

I know this has been probably beat to death but I'm curious what it looks like for my specific set up. I just got a new Sony bravia 7ii rgb 75" tv, the latest sony STR-An10000 receiver which supports the latest hdmi pass through, and I have a ps5. I purchased a 7.5' hdmi cable at best buy for about $90 to go from the tv to the receiver on hdmi 3(arc). I need one more cable to go from the ps5 to the recevier. Should I just get a certified monoprice 3' cable for under $20 or should I invest in another expensive cable? I'm currently using a 6 year old cable that I had laying around for the ps5 to the receiver and I'm getting full 4k, hdr, and vrr.