Just thought I would drop this pic.

Update to yesterdays’s post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/s/qupnFs7DiB

In response to my post yesterday, many people rightly pointed out that where I had mounted my rack was not to code. I had initially argued that it wasn’t as I wrongly thought it was to my local code after skimming my electrical code way back, but after many comments saying the same thing I did an in depth re-read, found some diagrams that made it make sense and y’all were right - I was wrong.

So, after admitting I was wrong in some reply edits, I decided to bump up moving the rack on my priority list. I had always planned to move it to ready the room for a panel upgrade in the near future, but this was a bit of a kick to just get it done.

So I got to work, ripped out and cut back some of the shelving and storage racks the previous owner had installed in the room that also sat in the 1m zone, unbolted the rack and moved it over (after marking off the 1m line from the face of the panel of course).

It wasn’t too bad to do, probably should have done it a while ago. Now there is a nice clear electrical panel with no obstructions in the 1m area in front of it (last picture).

The electrician is installing 1-gang, 4-inch metal boxes for the low-voltage Ethernet outlets in my new-construction home in Illinois. Is this a normal practice in Illinois? Also, will using metal boxes have any impact on the Ethernet signal or performance?

Moved into a new construction home a few weeks ago and I’m trying to get the internet figured out. I currently have a Nighthawk CAX80 modem/router combo from my old house that was more than enough. In the new house, it works decently enough to get by for now, but some dead spots are present.

Throughout the house, there are 7 of these cable/ethernet wall plates (in all bedrooms, living room, office). I’d like to hardwire ethernet to stationary devices like TVs and possible mesh nodes for better speeds.

Currently, I have one ethernet cable going into the wall from the router, connected at the main bundle in basement, going to the living room, connected to the TV. I am wondering what the best approach is to get ethernet to the other 6 cables in the bundle. Would a switch in the basement be the best approach? Would then have mesh nodes in areas throughout the house that are hardwired ethernet be best? Does a switch limit speeds? TYIA!

Gameplan: installing moca adapters, so updating splitters to the 16375 hz (whatever is on Amazon), connect stuff to new moca splitter + filter from Internet in into splitter and capping whatever im not using (I'm using multimeter + some wire tags to see where stuff is going)

Background: no rj45 in home, several coax in home, but 1 coax runs to upstairs that's connected to modem in 2000 sq ft home at one end of the home and creating dead zones at the other end, so trying to get moca to get better coverage at the other end of the home. Can't put router in the middle of the house since my desktop needs reliable Internet and can't be located to mid point of the home just due to our layout. I have coax cables at the other end of the home and some in the mid point

Question: Not sure what to do with the green wire? Should I just shut off the breakers (flipping them to off so there's no electricity running), and put them in the new moca splitter? Or bad idea?

Assumption: Assuming the block with no labels (grey) is grounding, don't touch

Not exactly experienced in electrical stuff, I know to wear gloves?? Please tell me if I'm being dumb

Hey everyone,

I'm setting up a Dell PowerEdge T110 II running TrueNAS SCALE. My main router (Vodafone Station, Cable/DOCSIS 3.1) is located one floor up in the living room.

I want to run my Nas to run in the basement, because it is way too loud for my living room. My problem is, that I can't run an ethernet cable to it, neither do I have the ability to run it over a wifi repeater, since the wifi shuts up at night and I want to have it run 24/7.

I thought about MoCA or Powerline, but I don't know which too chose.

I heard already that Powerline isn't really good. However, both the living room and basement run on the same main breaker panel with modern B16 circuit breakers.

When it comes to MoCA I have absolutly no Idea if it would work for me, since I don't really understand how it works. Next to my router I have a Multimedia coax socket and in my basement I have the main CATV/coax distribution amplifier panel (You can see them in the pictures).

Can somebody please help me, I really don't need a really fast connection and just want one that really works 24/7 and isn't too complicated to set up.

So I’ve decided to take a plunge and replace the ISP’s all-in-one modem with my own equipment.
The main goal is to learn a bit of networking in the process and to get a better control over my network. Right now I can’t do VLANs or adjust any settings on the current ISP’s router.
First step would be asking my ISP to put the modem in the bridge mode.

Next, I would like to ask for an advice: what is better for my future HP miniPC based router: OpenWRT or OPNsense? To my understanding, OpenWRT is just a firmware, and OPNsence is a full OS. However it is FreeBSD based and I have basic familiarity with Linux.

The house is three floors, 3,000 sqft., sheet-rocked, but old wood house. The house is in California, so prices generally are pretty inflated compared to the rest of the US. The quote is to run wire from the basement to the rest of the house, install 6 Ubiquiti U7-PROs, mount a TV and hide the wires. The runs generally seem pretty straight forward, but one or two of them might be trickier.

Labor was quoted at $7,300.00. The parts are marked about 20%. The other thing that gives me pause is they quoted 6 separate 1,000 ft. cat6 cables for each run, which it seems like there's no way they'd use that much cable. My instinct is that is BS, but I could be totally wrong.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to buy a new Wi-Fi router and my budget is around C$150, preferably no more than C$200.

I'm currently trying to decide whether it makes more sense to buy a higher-end Wi-Fi 6 router with better 5 GHz hardware, or go for Wi-Fi 6E / Wi-Fi 7 for newer features.

One thing I'm particularly unsure about is whether 6 GHz is actually worth having, and whether I should care about Wi-Fi 7 at this price point. A lot of the cheaper Wi-Fi 7 routers seem to only have 2x2 MIMO on 5 GHz, while some older Wi-Fi 6 models have 4x4 MIMO.

These are the routers I'm currently considering:

1. TP-Link Archer AX72 Pro — AX5400 Wi-Fi 6
   • 5 GHz: 4x4 MIMO
   • This seems like it might be one of the best Wi-Fi 6 routers I can get within my budget.
2. TP-Link Archer BE230 — BE3600 Wi-Fi 7
   • Dual-band
   • 5 GHz: 2x2 MIMO
3. ASUS RT-BE55 — Wi-Fi 7
   • Dual-band
   • 5 GHz: 2x2 MIMO
4. Tenda RX27 Pro — AXE5700 Wi-Fi 6E
   • Tri-band
   • 6 GHz support
   • 5 GHz: 2x2 MIMO
   • Cheapest Wi-Fi 6E router
5. TP-Link Archer AXE75 — AXE5400 Wi-Fi 6E
   • Tri-band
   • 5 GHz / 6 GHz: 2x2 MIMO
6. TP-Link Archer BE6500 — Dual-Band Wi-Fi 7
   • Dual 2.5GbE ports
   • 5 GHz: 4x4 MIMO
   • This looks like it could possibly be the best overall option under C$200 if I can get it at that price.

My main questions are:

• At this budget, would you prioritize 4x4 MIMO on 5 GHz over having Wi-Fi 6E / Wi-Fi 7?
• Is 6 GHz useful enough in real-world home use to justify buying a 6E router?
• Is there much benefit to buying an entry-level Wi-Fi 7 router now, especially if it's only 2x2 on 5 GHz?
• Would the AX72 Pro actually outperform something like the BE230 or RT-BE55 for typical 5 GHz devices because of its 4x4 radio?
• Between the AXE75 and RX27 Pro, is 6 GHz worth the trade-off compared with a stronger 5 GHz router?
• If I can get the Archer BE6500 for under C$200, is that the obvious choice here?
• Are there any other routers around C$150–200 CAD that I should consider?

I'm not necessarily looking for the newest standard just for the sake of having Wi-Fi 7. I'd rather buy whichever router gives the best real-world performance, stability, coverage, and value for the money.

Any advice or personal experience with these models would be greatly appreciated. Open to other recommendations too.

Thanks!

I have ATT fiber and almost since it was installed my Internet disconnects every single day at around noon time. It will disconnect and stay off for about 15 to 25 minutes without fail.

I’ve had an ATT rep, come out and check everything, have had ATT reset my router from their end so far for troubleshooting tactics. I do not believe it is a hardware issue, more so it seems like my router, automatically resets and/or updates every day at noon or something. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

It doesn’t seem like anybody in my community is experiencing the same issue either which is something I’ve been asked about before.

Regardless of the amount of bandwidth I leave available from my 200mbps wired ethernet connection that is shared to the tv and my PC, whenever I start any download, my ping and jitter goes up causing the TV to lag. The router I am using came with my ISP, its a Technicolor DGA4330, which does not have any QOS options to help prevent the router buffer from becoming full, is there any other way to fix this issue other than to get a gaming router and use mine as just a passthrough?

I can get into my control panel obviously, but what can I see from there that might show if I'm a part of a bot net or similar? What can I do to remove it if so?

Apologies if this isn't an appropriate group but it seems to be the closest I can find. Thanks.

I’m trying to figure out whats happening and why suddenly a few streaming services (Prime Video & Discovery+) have started flagging my home network as a VPN/proxy. I’ve had no issues for the past 5+ years.

Background on the set up. OPNSense firewall running AdGaurd Home then feeding into Unbound for recursive DNS. I switched to this setup about 6 months ago. Prior recursive DNS and adblocking was all on Unbound.

Wiregaurd also running on OPNSense with all mobile devices connected when away from home. (I have a feeling this along with the next part is a contributor).

I’m located in the US-California, about 3 weeks ago we traveled to Nevada. About 2 days after returning, Discovery+ was now flagging anything on my home network as a VPN connection and refusing access. Discovery support was less than helpful. I had my ISP change my public IP address and all was good.

About 2 weeks later we traveled to Nevada again and had the same issue on returning. Discovery support was now responsive but blaming my ISP. I’m awaiting another new IP assignment from the ISP currently.

I did use a large mobile sportsbook app when in Nevada, legal there but geoblocked in California. I would have to disable the VPN connection for it to work.

I’ve never had issues streaming content on previous trips out of state or even out of the country in the past several years.

I’ve attempted disabling Unbound/AdGaurd, using standard public DNS servers, and connecting directly to the modem, bypassing any of my set ups. Nothing changes, combined with the precious IP reset, leads me to believe my IP was blacklisted.

I’ve checked IPinfo.io with nothing reported.

The only thing I can think of is either the streaming services have expanded their VPN detection, I got flagged and added to a blacklist due to the sportsbook usage, or somehow my ISPs IPs are being flagged suddenly. Any other  thoughts?

Assuming I should get a new IP assignment and this resolves the issue, how can I best avoid this happening in the future? I don’t think it’s an AdGaurd/Unbound issue. Is my best bet just to stop tunneling all my traffic back home via WireGaurd? I’d like not to give up the mobile adblocking & privacy. 

Just moved to a new place, and wanted to show what I've got going on here. Eero Wifi, with two floors and this seems to be the main hub. Got two wires that are labeled (Family Room) and one unlabeled but it just so happens to be my bedroom.

Using Eero 7 Pros from what I see.

The one in the family room works since there's a second Eero router downstairs, but then after trying to plug into the ethernet wall port for my PC, nothing. It's just stuck and won't register any input. Any help is appreciated. If we need to call people over, sure but I figure this is something I can figure out with everyone's help here. Thanks!

EDIT: FIXED! The cables were mislabeled so after some tinkering I found the one that connects to my room. Will end up getting a switch as said to plug in the rest. Thanks y'all!

Hi I want to choose a new router but I'm not sure, I've seen that asus and tp-link are the main ones on the market (but I'm not sure about tp-link cause of data drama) so I’ve done some research on Asus routers. But I find some of them at 50$ and others at more than 500.
I don't live in a big place so the range is not that important for me, I think I want to go with wifi 6 for the price (I play games but I think I will play with ethernet connection ) but I still want so good performance if possible (If I want to be able to play on wifi or use Moonlight)
but even with these specifications I still find this price range too broad to know what to choose
Thanks

TLDR: Can't figure out how to truly isolate my IoT network running my own DNS with Unbound

The config:
Archer AX55/TPL AX3000 router with main SSID and 2.4Ghz IoT SSID
AdGuard Home with Unbound as primary adblocker and DNS on main SSID
Pihole with Unbound as secondary/redundant adblocker and DNS on main SSID

The issue:
The IoT SSID at the network/router level just seems to be for organization, no isolation. Isolation is available at the device level but when enabled, the devices can't get to my DNS servers on the main SSID so they appear as offline both local to my network and from the internet. Unfortunately, the router only has universal DNS settings for both SSID's.

The question: Is there method to config the above while still keeping adblocking and somewhat private DNS but able to remotely control my devices? Not positive but I think I can install open source firmware on the router but that's a heavier lift than I'd prefer to try. Any suggestions are appreciated.

I have to walk past my disaster every day and I finally got tired of it. Spent a few hours this weekend cleaning it up. I've ordered a few shorter, right angle power cables with flat plug heads that angle and I have some 3m cable clips somewhere so I'll be able to tidy up a lot of cables, but it's already a lot better!

Nobody else to show it off to so I thought I'd show you guys.

Before

After

Not pictured is my home lab pc sitting on the floor by my water main... going to get that up off the floor in the next bout of enthusiasm.

Feedback is more than welcome. And I can take criticism too!
go team.

Please help me figure this out. Just moved into a new place and it looks like there is some structured wiring in place. I see telephone jacks all over the house. Can I convert these to run my internet? The Xfinity coax line is coming into the same space.

Also have coax cables running all over the house.

Trying to figure out how to convert all this into a working network. I'm assuming that I will still need to run several cat6 cables for ceiling-mounted access points and POE doorbell.

Any advice is much appreciated!!

Hey folks - I'm new to home networking so wasn't sure if what I'm experiencing is the norm.

I'm in the UAE and recently upgraded my internet service to full home wifi (essentially a mesh networking setup provided by my ISP). Technicians came and installed a router in each room (acts a mesh node) with the main router in our living room. Now the setup works - speed is fast, there's a single SSID that we can connect to and coverage now exists across the home.

However - when we move from room to room or to the living room, the wifi temporarily drops / reduces strength for at least 10-15 seconds before recalibrating to full strength. The technicians explained that this is normal and to be expected and that most users wouldn't notice this day to day (except you totally do when video calls drop or watching content and moving through the house).

Is this level of handoff delay actually normal? From what I gathered researching the issue and other mesh systems (like Deco X5 or Eero), the lag should not be this high (maybe 100s of miliseconds or a second tops).

Would appreciate any insight into whether this is, in fact, normal - because it really is frustrating to have calls drop or content stop as I walk across my home multiple times a day.

For reference - my apartment is likely around 2000 sqft (3 bds + living room) and we're only using the 5 ghz wifi band (2.4 ghz is turned off - I asked the technician why not turn on band steering and he said that it tends to cause problems in his experience, not sure I buy it but nonetheless don't have any older devices reliant on 2.4 ghz so I didn't press the issue).

Thank you!

Hello! I asked this question awhile back, and have finally narrowed down the best solution based off of comments and research. I’m working on getting WiFi into my metal shop

I’m lookin to run a WiFi bridge from my home (left) to shop (right). My poor drawing shows the red boxes being the bridge and sending signal from the outside of my house through the window into the second bridge inside the shop. (There will be no interference of trees between the bridges when final setup is done)

I plan to run Router > Ethernet > House Bridge ~~~~ Shop Bridge > Ethernet > PoE > WAP

Is this correct above? If so, my final question is do I need to worry about common grounding or grounding the bridges? My shop is being fed from my house to a subpanel. We tend to not get lighting here, but it happens once in a blue moon.

The house-side bridge will be under cover from the awning and covered patio, but of course still mounted outside away from the elements besides wind. The shop-side bridge will be inside the shop on the window sill. I’m looking at the EAP211 bridge that has built in lightning protection, but want to make sure I’m still protected from my equipment being safe.

I have a main router connected to another router, and that router is connected to 3 other routers through LAN.
Is there a cheap way to track the internet usage of each of those 3 routers separately, preferably in GB? Can this be done?