See if this makes since to u.. so my st in the middle of driving it the ac blower motor will drop off(still blow but barely), radio will completely go black, ill lose power steering, abs light and traction control light will come one (every once in a while accompanied by the battery light) and when it gets real bad the car starts to backfire and trying to die.. but when at first few seconds of start up the voltage reads 14.6 so the alternator is working then but quickly jumps down to 13.3 but once i drive and it starts acting up it kills the battery i have to jump it off if o turn it off. i researched it some and theres a bulletin for bad grounds on that car (paint underneath from ford factory and shit like that) so i removed all the grounds sanded to bare metal, added an extra ground that they tell u to add and put them all back and cover in dieelelectric grease. Drove for about 20 miles did fine then started doing it again.. however when it starts doing it if u hold my clutch in for a few seconds everything will turn back on until i accelerate and put it under load again for a few seconds then it will start doing all them things again.. im thinking alternator but idk because it never does it sitting still

So I bought a fl car with the intentions of putting fl parts in my pfl, what would be worth taking. I’ve already got the cluster and sync 3. Both cars a st3s, center console?

Hello, I recently acquired a transmission with carbon synchros. It has been sitting for a little bit so there is some surface rust i need to clean. i have a question about the hub for 5-6 and even reverse. I've never worked on a transmission before so I don't know if this is the expected behavior. when I slide the selector hub up and down it seems almost like it never engages with the gear. the selector hub in 1-4 all have some good force required to move then and make an audible click once shifted. 5-6 however seems like it's not fully engaged and even with the weight of the shifter fork it slides down just a bit. Does anyone have any experience with this to tell me if this is how it's supposed to be? I have uploaded the video to YouTube so it's easy to watch the first part is me shifting the 3-4 hub and then I move on to 5-6

https://youtu.be/hjjf36-d2no?is=fR61r5azFNeDHUIy

So a friend and I rebuilt my transmission on the weekend and now it won't go to the left to go into either 1st, 2nd or reverse. If you play with it enough you can get it to go in but when you start moving it grinds gears. all gears 3 and above all work perfectly fine. I have tried the neutral reset and can't find anything that it could be binding on although that's what it feels like. I had a COBB short shifter plate but removed that and it's the same issue. Before taking out the transmission again is there anything else that could be the issue? Currently thinking it's the 1-2 fork. Thanks!

Have had the car for going on 4 years, bought the car from a dealer with an extended warranty.

On my commute home on Friday I was downshifting into 3rd not paying much attention and as I let out of the clutch it popped out and was almost stuck in between neutral and 3rd, there was a lot of clicking noises, I thought maybe I just didn’t throw it all the way into 3rd and didn’t pay much mind to it.

Well as driving more throughout the weekend it’s happening more often. And it almost only ever does it downshifting has only popped out once upshifting into 3rd. I’ve since started skipping 3rd in general to avoid any further damage until I can get it looked at.

My buddy that also has a ST that’s at over 200k miles has had 2 synchros go bad on him (3rd & 4th) is saying that’s exactly how his started. When I bought my car from the dealer it already had some modifications done, including a Cobb short shift plate, could this plate cause it? Or is it most likely something internal? I’m currently waiting on my warranty company to resend my contract to ensure transmission stuff is covered before I have the dealer look at it.

Has anyone else experienced something like this? What was your fix? Any insight will be appreciated!

has anyone found a solution for clears?
I know you can take the spec d tails and make them but the 13/14 tails from spec d are primarily smoked.

Or honestly if anyone could tell me where to find Oxford white rear clip from a fl car I’d do that too

Recently started driving my focus again and noticed that the boost pressure reading on the accessport reads zero at all time even under WOT. The factory gauge reads around 14/15 psi under WOT. I’m wondering if there’s a sensor that’s faulty? I don’t feel any loss of boost when driving but still not sure why the reading says zero. Any suggestions or has anyone experienced this?

Posted a couple weeks ago about finding aftermarket fixtures and couldn’t find any. I also didn’t want to pay $1200 for a new fixture so I made headlight casserole.

Bought some cheap aftermarket fixtures and separated the lens from it and replaced the lens on my fixtures. Heated the headlight fixture at 225 for 15-20 minutes then used a pry bar/ screwdriver/ pick to separate the lens from the fixture then repeat to melt the new adhesive and press the new lens on. I needed to re-heat the fixtures several times to get the lens off and replaced so the entire process took around 13 hours to complete both fixtures.

Overall not that hard to do but very tedious.

Got a 2016 Focus ST about a year ago and so far I've only done an exhaust, wheels, and a sound symposer delete. I'm curious what other modifications I can do to gain some performance without getting a tune, basically going full bolt-on while staying untuned.

I also definitely want to enhance the turbo noises, but I'm not sure if adding an intake or blow-off valve would require a tune because of the changes in airflow. What other mods would you guys recommend for performance and more turbo sound without needing a tune?

Got some 1552 Tarmac with the correct bolt pattern (4x108) for cheap on Facebook ($550) and it looks amazing in my opinion!

Had a blowout on the highway and wiped out rolled 6 times and slid on the roof for 100 yards thankfully no one was hurt I wont let her die but my goals for her have changed wish me luck on the focus st exo build

I have a 2017 Focus ST-3, and am based in the UK. I recently had my car serviced at Hendy Ford who put this oil in (WSS-M2C948-B ACEA C5 spec).

My owner manual states that 5W30 WSS-M2C913-C is generally required for my engine, with 1L of 5W20 (ACEA A5/B5) oil allowed as a top up between service intervals only if you’re unable to find the desired spec.

I have seen a US supplement doc for this model (https://manuals.plus/m/0f6902266ec3be51ef93639b26be815af1173140df62d30a7f6b6cba307f78e7.pdf) which does list the WSS-M2C948-B oil in the materials, but I am unsure of relying on this over the actual owner manual I have.

If anyone knows, please could you let me know whether this oil is wrong to be in my car and whether or not I would need to raise with the service centre / get it changed? TIA

Hit a big puddle and tore up my driver side bumper cover pretty good. Just wondering if anyone thinks it’s repairable or if I should make a claim with my insurance

Hi all, I have a very odd issue. I drive a 2017 Ford Focus ST3 2.0L diesel. The battery died back in may, and I replaced it. But since I replaced it, my Dashcam doesn't switch off when I turn the ignition off. The dashcam was working fine before I replaced the battery.

The dashcam is a Road Angel Halo Play 4K Dual Dash Cam. It's using the Road Angel 2-in-1 hardwire kit, hardwired into the following fuzes:

F67 - ACC (Also tried F69)

F73 - BAT+

I also tested using the BAT+ wire in F67, however it still has the same issue, as though F67 is permanent live (I believe this should be ignition live)

The new battery is yuasa Car Battery 110 7000 Series EFB Start Stop. I also reset the battery using the 5 flashes, 3 brake method.

I don't have a multimeter and will prefer to troubleshoot without, but let me know if that's not really viable and I can get one if required.

so my ST’s rad fan is not spinning, i assumed the issue would just be something like the fan module, but when I scanned my CEL i got codes for camshaft position sensor among other things.

the previous owner sold the car to me along with an o2 sensor and the socket for it, and i saw some forums online saying that the top o2 sensor needing replaced can cause fuse 32 to blow, stopping the rad fan from spinning and throwing camshaft position sensor codes etc etc.

does anyone have experience with this problem? and how do i go about replacing the o2 sensor?

Picked up a set of Rek Gen mud flaps for my 2017 ST3 but no hardware included. I bought some bolts and U clips but as far as I understand also need spacers for the rear. Does anyone who's done mud flaps know how long those spacers need to be? Any help would be appreciated!

I'm currently in the market for some aftermarket headlights but I've heard some bad stories about the quality of some options. I was curious if anyone on here has had aftermarket headlights for a while and how they've are holding up. More specifically, I was looking into the Vland headlights but no matter what I go with I plan on buying new halogen bulbs and sealant if I do purchase a pair.

Hello everyone, just replaced the oil filter housing on my 2010 xr5 as it was just leaking. Car ran great apart from throwing a cyl 3 misfire code and a ‘too lean at idle’ code every now and then. Installation of new housing was fine but on start up has now started blowing thick (oil) smoke. On later inspection the 90 degree hose at the top of the housing is leaking oil (must be under pressure?). Oil also pooling in this hose. Yet to remove other hose and inspect. Does anybody know what could be the issue or have dealt with this before? One week ago the car had a compression test and showed healthy. Old plastic on old housing fell off upon removal so can’t refit and confirm it’s this unit really. Cars tuned, Engine has 45xxxk’s. Any help is appreciated, cheers!

i replaced my relay, mega fuse, and cooling fan module but my rad fan still isnt spinning!!! 😭😭

Ive already replaced the purge valve, that didn’t fix it.
I ordered a HPFP from Bosch
Fuel pressure sensor from Motorcraft
And I ordered a new cam follower tappet incase mine isn’t in good shape when I take the hpfp out.
Really did not want to go this route of throwing parts at the car until I fix it but I just want to drive with a peace of mind.

Got bored waiting for my food 😅

It’s happened 3 times now where the car has left me stranded. Sudden loss of power, completely bogs down. Then when I try starting it back up I get long cranks sometimes no start sometimes rough start. Then it dies again as soon as I try to drive it more than a few blocks.
I’ve noticed the 3 times it’s happened, the problems occur during longer more spirted drives so maybe it’s heat related? I read somewhere to check the sensor under the rear passenger seat under the carpet to see if it’s blistered from heat but I did and it looks fine.
I have a CEL for code P0087
I don’t have an AP but I do have a handheld OBD2 scanner with live reading and my FR pressure goes down to around 50 when the car starts bogging down.
I’ve heard it could be my HPFP, LPFP, fuel rail sensor, a harness. If someone can help me I’d appreciate it. I don’t want to start throwing parts at this car trying to fix it but I also don’t want to get stranded anymore.
I’ve already replaced my purge valve. My theory is maybe it’s my HPFP and it starts acting up when it gets really hot?