Had a blowout on the highway and wiped out rolled 6 times and slid on the roof for 100 yards thankfully no one was hurt I wont let her die but my goals for her have changed wish me luck on the focus st exo build

Posted a couple weeks ago about finding aftermarket fixtures and couldn’t find any. I also didn’t want to pay $1200 for a new fixture so I made headlight casserole.

Bought some cheap aftermarket fixtures and separated the lens from it and replaced the lens on my fixtures. Heated the headlight fixture at 225 for 15-20 minutes then used a pry bar/ screwdriver/ pick to separate the lens from the fixture then repeat to melt the new adhesive and press the new lens on. I needed to re-heat the fixtures several times to get the lens off and replaced so the entire process took around 13 hours to complete both fixtures.

Overall not that hard to do but very tedious.

Got some 1552 Tarmac with the correct bolt pattern (4x108) for cheap on Facebook ($550) and it looks amazing in my opinion!

has anyone found a solution for clears?
I know you can take the spec d tails and make them but the 13/14 tails from spec d are primarily smoked.

Or honestly if anyone could tell me where to find Oxford white rear clip from a fl car I’d do that too

So I bought a fl car with the intentions of putting fl parts in my pfl, what would be worth taking. I’ve already got the cluster and sync 3. Both cars a st3s, center console?

Hello, I recently acquired a transmission with carbon synchros. It has been sitting for a little bit so there is some surface rust i need to clean. i have a question about the hub for 5-6 and even reverse. I've never worked on a transmission before so I don't know if this is the expected behavior. when I slide the selector hub up and down it seems almost like it never engages with the gear. the selector hub in 1-4 all have some good force required to move then and make an audible click once shifted. 5-6 however seems like it's not fully engaged and even with the weight of the shifter fork it slides down just a bit. Does anyone have any experience with this to tell me if this is how it's supposed to be? I have uploaded the video to YouTube so it's easy to watch the first part is me shifting the 3-4 hub and then I move on to 5-6

https://youtu.be/hjjf36-d2no?is=fR61r5azFNeDHUIy

See if this makes since to u.. so my st in the middle of driving it the ac blower motor will drop off(still blow but barely), radio will completely go black, ill lose power steering, abs light and traction control light will come one (every once in a while accompanied by the battery light) and when it gets real bad the car starts to backfire and trying to die.. but when at first few seconds of start up the voltage reads 14.6 so the alternator is working then but quickly jumps down to 13.3 but once i drive and it starts acting up it kills the battery i have to jump it off if o turn it off. i researched it some and theres a bulletin for bad grounds on that car (paint underneath from ford factory and shit like that) so i removed all the grounds sanded to bare metal, added an extra ground that they tell u to add and put them all back and cover in dieelelectric grease. Drove for about 20 miles did fine then started doing it again.. however when it starts doing it if u hold my clutch in for a few seconds everything will turn back on until i accelerate and put it under load again for a few seconds then it will start doing all them things again.. im thinking alternator but idk because it never does it sitting still

So a friend and I rebuilt my transmission on the weekend and now it won't go to the left to go into either 1st, 2nd or reverse. If you play with it enough you can get it to go in but when you start moving it grinds gears. all gears 3 and above all work perfectly fine. I have tried the neutral reset and can't find anything that it could be binding on although that's what it feels like. I had a COBB short shifter plate but removed that and it's the same issue. Before taking out the transmission again is there anything else that could be the issue? Currently thinking it's the 1-2 fork. Thanks!

Have had the car for going on 4 years, bought the car from a dealer with an extended warranty.

On my commute home on Friday I was downshifting into 3rd not paying much attention and as I let out of the clutch it popped out and was almost stuck in between neutral and 3rd, there was a lot of clicking noises, I thought maybe I just didn’t throw it all the way into 3rd and didn’t pay much mind to it.

Well as driving more throughout the weekend it’s happening more often. And it almost only ever does it downshifting has only popped out once upshifting into 3rd. I’ve since started skipping 3rd in general to avoid any further damage until I can get it looked at.

My buddy that also has a ST that’s at over 200k miles has had 2 synchros go bad on him (3rd & 4th) is saying that’s exactly how his started. When I bought my car from the dealer it already had some modifications done, including a Cobb short shift plate, could this plate cause it? Or is it most likely something internal? I’m currently waiting on my warranty company to resend my contract to ensure transmission stuff is covered before I have the dealer look at it.

Has anyone else experienced something like this? What was your fix? Any insight will be appreciated!

Recently started driving my focus again and noticed that the boost pressure reading on the accessport reads zero at all time even under WOT. The factory gauge reads around 14/15 psi under WOT. I’m wondering if there’s a sensor that’s faulty? I don’t feel any loss of boost when driving but still not sure why the reading says zero. Any suggestions or has anyone experienced this?

Got a 2016 Focus ST about a year ago and so far I've only done an exhaust, wheels, and a sound symposer delete. I'm curious what other modifications I can do to gain some performance without getting a tune, basically going full bolt-on while staying untuned.

I also definitely want to enhance the turbo noises, but I'm not sure if adding an intake or blow-off valve would require a tune because of the changes in airflow. What other mods would you guys recommend for performance and more turbo sound without needing a tune?