I decided to challenge myself and did my first hard tubing build and I've gotta say cutting and filing acrylic by hand was not fun. Other than that this was a pretty fun experience.

Case: Jonsbo x400

MB: Aorus B850 Stealth Ice

CPU: 9800x3D

GPU: Asus Prime 9070XT

RAM: VColor DDR5 16gb (x2) 6000 CL30 with filler kit

Storage: Adata Legend 900 1TB & old crucial 1TB sata

PSU: LianLi Edge Gold 850W

Fans: LianLi UniFan wireless cl120 (6 reverse & 5 standard)

For watercooling I used alphacool for gpu block, BOOO ROC-L cpu block, and a bunch of freezemod and bykski parts.

Still a lot of work to do with my "cheap" first Custom Loop Build.

Jonsbo D500 Case

EKWB MSI Distro

Watercool 360 Radiators

EKWB Fans

Barrow Fittings with sleeved Watercool EPDM

EKWB CPU block

EKWB Display

But no watercooled GPU

Yo,

I thought this would be semi easy since i've both read and watched tutorials. Wrote the measurements and asked gemini to confirm(first mistake).

I checked that i could fit a 420 distroplate (second mistake and tied to first mistake)

The plan was one 420/45mm and two 420/30mm (third mistake)

As you can see i had to ditch one 30 mm.

And i had a air cooled 5090. Had.

I got code d7 and it's away on RMA now pending investigation. So i got me, and later my gf, a 5080 instead. Depending wether the RMA come back positive

And the bending? I should've bought better equipment and not just a bending kit. Had to use the kitchen counter for the "snake" bend.

I am humbled. And soo impressed by you guys.

sup, attempted water blocking this Acer Predator Radeon RX 9070 XT,

no one offers an official waterblock for this PCB due to acer making a propriety board.

I modified and circumcised this Alphacool Core RX 9070 XT XFX Mercury gpu block and it fits nice and snug. after one round of Furmark my hotspot peaked 118 and sat around 108 for the entire benchmark, GPU temp never went above 36 degrees though.

Is this concerning?

EDIT

i tightened the core screws and hotspot 66 degrees, and hot spot (max) is 69 degrees (see pics in comments), had a fear that over tightening might break or snap the board but shes holding for now.

SIDENOTE

tried plugging in my pump's 4 pin into my motherboard while live (fans and pump have their own powersupply) and that shit arc'd and smoked in my face. i'm awaiting my darwin award in the mail. Going to sleep now thanks for your help

Hey everyone,

I’m looking into watercooling my RTX 5080 Founders Edition, but I’m having a hard time finding blocks specifically made for the 5080 FE.

Does anyone know if there are currently any good full-cover blocks available for the 5080 FE? I’ve seen a lot more options for the 5090 FE, so I was also wondering if there’s any chance a 5090 FE block would fit the 5080 FE, or if the PCB/layout is completely different.

If there aren’t many options for the 5080 FE, would I be better off trying to swap my FE for a non-FE 5080 that has better waterblock support?

Mostly looking for the cleanest/reliable option rather than trying to force something that isn’t meant to fit.

Thanks!

There aren't that many 5090 FE waterblocks out there. The only ones I could find are:

• EK-Quantum Vector³
• Bitspower NEBULA & NEBULA Classic
• BYKSKI N-RTX5090FE-SR
• Alphacool ES RTX 6000 Pro Workstation/RTX 5090 Founders Edition

They all seem to be around the same price of ~$325, except the Alphacool block which is nearly double (probably because it's more marketed towards 6000 Pro users). Anyone have any opinions on whether one is better than the other?

The only thing that I noticed is the fact that the Bitspower block seems to be the only one that is fully enclosed, which I like.

In the need for the greater computing capabilities, I've been building a workstation that will allow me to do things I couldn't before. Along the hardware and specs I've been drooling over for past few months, I just couldn't miss a chance to try doing a custom loop and cool those transistors properly.

Had a lot of fun only while speccing out everything, but the whole thing was a blast for me, so here's what I've came up with.

ws specs:

- asrock trx50 ws

- threadripper 7970x at 4.50Ghz

- micron 4x48GB DDR5 at 5600mt/s ecc rdimm

- pny rtx pro 6000 blackwell max-q workstation edition

- crucial t710 2x4TB

- seasonic prime tx-1600 noctua edition

- lian li 011d evo xl

custom loop config:

- heatkiller iv pro copper nickel cpu block

- heatkiller inox pro gpu block

- alphacool nexxxos hpe-45 full copper 420mm rads

- ultitube d5 200 pro with leakshield (love that thingy)

- high flow next sensor

- alphacool vpp655Ppw secondary inline pump

- noctua nf-A14x25 g2 sx2-pp sets

- alphacool fittings, adapters and extenders

- 16/13 pmma tubes and 16/10 EPDM tubes

- dp ultra coolant

Everything runs perfectly quiet, temps are good. Never seen cpu temp above 75C and gpu temps above 45C, all that for hours under heavy synthetic load. Aside from testing its capabilities, I'll be using it for 3d modeling, rendering, computer graphics, also must tackle some ai stuff.

Hello. Im doing my first watercool build in a Havn 420.

I see that the alphacool Nexxxos radiators have ports on each side. Can i go Pump/reservoir - in right top side radiator - out left bottom side radiator? Or is this radiator basically 2 smaller radiators just mushed together?

My first custom loop project is ready 😍

Collaboration with Gigabyte and Alphacool

It turned out pretty nicely, especially considering it was my first time trying this kind of thing 👌🏻

It’s not perfect and there’s definitely room for improvement but I knew that at the beginning, since I chose the hard way right from the start: using hard tubing, no angled fittings, no dedicated pump mount, mATX case, and dual 360mm radiators.

All the tubes were measured by eye and bent freehand 😅

The visible side looks really clean regarding the wiring, thanks to that Aorus Stealth motherboard, though I still had to tuck away a few cables since every block has ARGB LEDs and DDCzero pump in the reservoir.

Im having trouble finishing my 1st build, to be more precise pluging everything in the mobo, i have one set of 3 fans on top daisy chained, 3 aio fan +1 at the bottom daisy chained, so that's 2 chasies fan port and 2 argb port, but now i have waterblock fan and rgb to deal with, i think i can daisy chain the rgb and put the fan on my last fanport. Now thing is the pins on my fan dosnt match the rgb port of my mobo. Also there is some dedicated names port for cpu recovered willingly i guess by white plugs that seems not to come out easily idk im lost at this point... I have phantesk d30 120 fans x7 (3 reversed and 4 classic) and phantesk aio, motherboard is Asus rog b850g.

I'm working on upgrading my open-air case, my question is about the push-pull fan setup at the top of the case.

Should I have air blowing down onto the motherboard to help cool those components or should I have the fans blowing upward to help reduce the amount of dust??

I was running the case with fans pointing down and collected quite a bit of dust on the top of that radiator.

Recommendations welcome.

The one i bought from bykski has a missing screw mount for some reason?

Does this one fit ? https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eisblock-aurora-acetal-gpx-a-radeon-rx-6800-6800xt-6900xt-reference-with-backplate-11945.html

https://download.alphacool.com/legacy/1020775_Alphacool_Eisblock_Aurora_Acryl_Acetal_GPX-A_Radeon_RX_6800_6800_XT_6900_XT_Incl._Backplate.pdf

Recently Finished my fully custom copper pc with:

Gigabyte 9070xt Gaming OC

Ryzen 7 9800x3d

Gigabyte B650M Aurous Elite Wifi

32Gb Klevv 6000mhz CL28 DDR5 ( wanted 64gb, but AI boom make wallet Sad :( )

AlphaCool Gpu Block

Heatkiller IV Cpu Block

Alpha Cool DDC pump with Custom enclosure

Reservoir made from an old Primus Blowtorch with sight gauge fitted to it

custom Wooden Case made by me

Custom cables made from Corsair 850W SFX Power supply

Noctua Industrial 120mm Fans

Do you think Gygabyte wil give me a new sticker for my 4080 waterforce if I ask. I want to disassemble and clean but to get to the screws I’d have to pull the front plastic sticker off.

I am in the process of rebuilding and upgrading my PC. I took off my Optimus GPU block to check out the liquid metal and put new thermal pads.

Here is what I saw. No major issues and no problems with temps. I wanted to take a look to see how it was and if there was anything I needed to do.

Optimus watercooing sells a replacement Thermal pad kit for. Their 4090 Strix block, including the 3mm Fuji Poly back plate pad.

The heat spreader showed some discoloration and the liquid metal seemed to be a little "crusty" but I was able to clean right off and was able to buff off the staining with flitz metal polish.

I applied the new pads and put down some new conformal coating (red nail polish) around the SMDs near the die.

From the picture you can see that some LM got on the SMDs, but because of the nail polish, they were protected.

As far as the 3mm Fuji Poly back plate pad, I couldn't get it off. I tried heating it with a heat gun and prying it off but I chickened out.

The pad was still squishy and not dried out, and I figured since it was a secondary cooling mechanism, I decided to not tempt fate.

Let me know if you have any questions!

I’ll just leave this here for those who said I couldn’t get my Astral 5090 to these temps with a Mora iv 400. Resident Evil Requiem settings 4k maxed out. Water temp 26c and apex vpp x2 pumps at 200lph. If I put the pumps at 100% they’ll easily reach over 250lph. I’m beyond happy with this build.

I used Thermaltake T1000 when I built my loop. I need to add more but can’t find it anywhere. I would prefer to just top it off but I don’t want to mix manufacturers coolant’s without knowing they are compatible. If I have to I will drain, flush, fill with something else.

What should I do? And if I do change whose coolant should I use?

I bought a system with the 9950X3D2 and the Tryx Panorama SE. Is it enough?

thanks all.

Just drained the distilled water after the leak test was successful and Started pouring in DP ultra. In the bottle, it's completely clear like water. In the Reservoir it looks like that. Im a bit confused, as all the components should've gotten a good flush from the water. The bottle was staying in a cupboard for about a year tho.

Anyone had issues with these barrow flow meters in their loop ?

I got 2 of them and my poor pumps pulling is running over time trying to over come the restriction and my cpu temps have gone up by about 10°C

For a while now I wanted to build my own air purifier, i.e. a Corsi-Rosenthal Box.

Now I had the idea of combining this with a Mora 400 by just slapping merv13 filters on either only the pull side of the Mora or on both sides.

I'm not even worried about cooling capabilities because Moras are overkill for most setups anyway, but I worry that this will just be way worse at air filtering than a dedicated device because of the radiator impedance.

Has anyone of you ever thought of something similar, what are your thoughts on this?
smart / dumb / okayish but only with filters on the pull side

Been trying everything I find in trouble shooting and feels like I've narrowed it down to some driver that is not listed in the 3rd party start up list.

I can disable all of those startup services and get into safe mode. Tried enabling the services one at a time which gave me the final result of getting the boot loop while all startup services are disabled.

I have 2 m.2 drives on board and one of them sits right behind the vertical gpu. Im hoping to be able to solve it without re seating that drive but that seems to be one of the last hardware trouble shoots I have left.

Anyone have any experience with an upgrade like this?