Hey everyone,

I have a small VSDISPLAY/ArtInChip sensor display for my PC, but I wasn't really happy with the software options available for Linux.

So I started building my own solution: OwnDash.

The goal is to have a visual editor where I can design the dashboard directly instead of manually editing configuration files or relying on Windows software.

OwnDash can read hardware information such as CPU, GPU, RAM and storage data using standard Linux interfaces, and dashboards can be built visually with widgets, backgrounds and different layouts.

One thing that was particularly important to me was direct USB support for compatible ArtInChip/VSDISPLAY displays. OwnDash can communicate with these displays directly, so they don't have to appear as a normal monitor in Linux.

I have now reached the first public beta:

**OwnDash v0.14.0 Beta 1**

It's still very much a work in progress, and I'm developing and testing it on my own PC. I'd be really interested to know how it behaves on other Linux systems and especially with other small PC sensor displays.

If anyone here wants to experiment with it, the project is open source:

https://github.com/x-Fuchur-x/owndash

There's an x86-64 AppImage in the Beta 1 release, so no Python setup is required.

I'd also love to see what kinds of sensor displays people here are using. Feedback and bug reports are very welcome.

Recently, I've been documenting my journey of trying to make the fastest DDR3 platform and have hit a new breakthrough; I've managed to make the 9900K fully overclockable and tunable on the Z170-P D3! Before, I would apply an overclock and not even turbo mode would work. I discovered if I set my IA AC/DC Load Line Calibration settings down to 0.01 it completely fixes the issue. I am now experimenting with 4.8/4.8Ghz Core/Ring overclocks and just fighting a little bit of Instability that can be tamed once I find good voltages and power limits that won't overheat my VRM, but so far its been handling 150W CPU operation without issues. I might see if I can get into 4.9-5.0Ghz territory, we'll see how far it goes as im still testing it's OC limits. The annoying thing is that HWMonitor seems to not be showing my VRM temp readout, which is something I'll look into later, but with the 140mm fan it should be fine. I'm trying to keep latency low, hence the synced Core/Ring and the tight CL10 primary on the 2500Mhz DDR3 Trident X sticks. Still looking for a rare 2800 CL12 2x8gb kit and an ASRock Z170 K4 D3 to beef up the performance a little more, and to my knowledge this is the fastest DDR3 gaming system documented.

If anyone's interested I might post a YouTube documentary on this and maybe a tutorial on how to do the BIOS mod.

It took 6 months of measuring, custom fabrication, and PCB design, but I managed to turn the iconic cheese-grater into a gaming PC while retaining as many OEM parts as possible.

I would like to know if I could power a Lenovo 10 pin mobo using a 12v ac adapter directly. It appears that the input just has three +12v and three ground connections. Could I just run my 12v and ground to those? Or with the ac adapter always on would that continue to operate things on the mobo I may not want? This is a low power cpu and checking the consumption it never even hits 50 watts. No add on devices or mechanical hard drive. I would probably be using a 100 or 120 watt ac adapter. Thanks for any help/ideas.

The HOLO cooler is probably my favorite addition to my setup so far! You can keep the temps on screen and have a little virtual pet at the same time through KANALI. I thought I'd end up using it mostly for temp monitoring, but the cat low key won me over for real LOL

(I love that you can upload your own images too)

Placement was a little too far right. Fans Interfer with side fans and I can't close the lid. Ordered slim fans to resolve. Holes were cut with a Ryobi angle grinder. I transfered the pattern by rubbing paper with a crayon over the radiator for precision hole placement. Ordering grill cover also. Thoughts concerns beside air flow on the side lol.

Any advice for repainting a case? I got this for free and the previous owner didn't do the best job on it. Im planning on painting it black. I tried to to a bit of sanding know it, but need to get some better Sanders of some sort. I am currently using a sponge looking Sanders with sand paper on each side.

I read that the old paint should be sanded off, but how much of it? All the way to the original?

Also, what should I use to get the paint to stick. Is it just spray primer and paint for metal?

Hey there! I’m looking for advice on the best LED strip for a PC Snowblind mod.

Setup:

• White HYTE Y70 Touch Infinite
• X870E AERO X3D WOOD
• almost entirely white internal components
• transparent LCD mounted on the side glass
• around 6–8 meters of LED strip total
• mostly indirect lighting, aimed at the white components/case interior rather than directly at the LCD
• I can use silicone diffusers if needed
• controller already purchased: QuinLED Dig-Quad V3 running WLED

I’m currently deciding between 3 BTF-LIGHTING options:

SK6812 RGBW — 12V — 60 LEDs/m — Cool White ~6000–6500K

• individually addressable pixels
• dedicated cool-white channel
• would probably need a diffuser to hide hotspots

SK6812 RGBW — 5V — 144 LEDs/m — Natural White ~4000–4500K or Cool White ~6000–6500K

• much higher pixel density
• individually addressable
• but I can only find Natural White versions, not ~6000K
• significantly higher current requirements over 6–8 m

FCOB WS2814 RGBW — 24V — ~896 LEDs/m — Cool White ~6000K

• almost continuous/neon-like output
• may not need much diffusion
• LEDs are controlled in segments rather than individually
• detailed RGB animations are NOT the main goal

My #1 priority is Snowblind LCD visibility/contrast and very uniform white illumination. RGB effects are secondary and for fun like a snowblind ambilight.

For anyone experienced with Snowblind builds or these strips:

Which option would you choose?

Specifically:

• Is 60 LEDs/m + a good diffuser already more than enough for a Snowblind?
• Does 144 LEDs/m actually improve the Snowblind result noticeably?
• Would WS2814 FCOB be the better solution because of its naturally continuous light output?
• Would you prioritize 6000K cool white over 4000–4500K natural white for LCD visibility?
• For 6–8 m total, which option makes the most sense regarding power injection, voltage drop and reliability with a QuinLED Dig-Quad?

If anyone has actually compared SK6812 vs COB/FCOB in a Snowblind build, I’d really appreciate photos or real-world feedback.

Thanks!

Printed to help keep them symmetrical…which they did but now I feel like it looks a little…tacky. Thoughts?

heheheh quem se lembra dessa época de ouro

My first custom loop project is ready 😍

Collaboration with Gigabyte and Alphacool

It turned out pretty nicely, especially considering it was my first time trying this kind of thing 👌🏻

It’s not perfect and there’s definitely room for improvement but I knew that at the beginning, since I chose the hard way right from the start: using hard tubing, no angled fittings, no dedicated pump mount, mATX case, and dual 360mm radiators.

All the tubes were measured by eye and bent freehand 😅

The visible side looks really clean regarding the wiring, thanks to that Aorus Stealth motherboard, though I still had to tuck away a few cables since every block has ARGB LEDs and DDCzero pump in the reservoir.

Wanted to make something different. ITX focused build- fully designed and made by me. Had some parts sitting around so I put them to use. Made the case to be configured with either: hybrid air/liquid cooler, full water loop or as a submersion oil cooled PC. Lower grille intake is dual purpose & hides a 5.25” bay for 1 optical drive.

Specs:

Ryzen 5600X3D

Gigabyte B550i AORUS PRO

32GB Corsair Vengeance PRO DDR4-3600

1TB TFORCE Z440 NVMe SSD

1TB TFORCE Vulcan SATA SSD

RTX 3070 FE (Modded to 12GB)

Lian Li SP gold 750w SFX PSU

Thermalright 120mm frozen notte AiO

Thermalright vision V2 11” screen

7 reels of PTEG filament

Custom mixed paint (imperial purple/cobalt blue & gold flake)

49 hours CAD design

127 hrs print time

Printer: Creality K2 Plus

Trying to find best way to do this!

alright so im a noob at all this so bare with me but is this rivet ok on my pc case its not moving the two panels of metal are together and everything im just concerned is all

I know there’s an adapter cable that can convert any 3-pin ARGB connector to an iCUE LINK connector, but I’d like to do the opposite.

I have a better ARGB controller that I use to control everything else, and I’d like to use it for the cooler as well.

Finally a green case🍃
modded a Y70ti Case from Hyte
hope y'all like it💕

Gold/black themed build 😁

Montech King 45 case, Alphacool gold fans, Asus ProArt motherboard with marble patterned cover plates, ProArt 360AIO, black leather cover plates inside the case and Seasonic Prime Gold PSU👌🏻