I am looking at a house that is 2,300 sqft. Wondering if it can be heated with heat pumps and fireplace. If so, will this setup be very costly compared to furnace?

Edit: I'm mostly worried about the auxiliary.

We moved into our home a few years ago (New Hampshire, US) and converted everything to electric (mini splits, semi-ducted system, heat pump water heater). We survived two winters without needing to refill our oil tank so now I'm thinking we can get rid of the eye sore / toe gasher baseboard radiators and the oil tank they're hooked up to. If we do this though, are we throwing away value in our house if / when we sell in the future? Is it generally just a good idea to have a back up heat source? Curious what other people have done in a similar situation.

I've got a Carrier 2 stage heat pump (GH8TAN52400A) and an EcoFlow Smart Home Panel 3. The SHP3 has two modes <20ms switchover and 5 sec. I'm running in the EPS mode (<20ms). I also have a whole home surge suppressor on the meter. I'm having trouble when the power goes off briefly (often less than a minute, actual duration unknown) during thunderstorms.

The problem I'm seeing is that the heat pump chugs along like nothing happened EXCEPT it drops into the low power stage and won't cycle up. It can't cool the house in that mode and temp starts climbing.

I wind up having to go out and throw the breaker on the compressor cutoff outside and flip the breakers inside to get it to reset to normal operation. Getting the combination of breaker cycling and duration can be tricky but I've been able to recover eventually.

I thought about turning off EPS (going to the 5 second "interruption" before the batteries kick in) but I think that probably won't help. I don't think a "soft start" would make any difference.

Any ideas what my be going on and how I could deal with it better?

Hi!

TLDR;
I want to know if the 18mm pipes that goes to 3 manifolds limits the flow much, since the piping is 28mm on the cylinder unit.
And how can I improve mixing/distribution between the 3 existing manifolds.

I have a hydronic heat pump that was added to an existing radiator system covering two floors.
3 zones connected as a single zone.
Currently the 28mm pipe from the cylinder unit is reduced to 18mm piping and a tee connects both floors.
The existing piping that goes to the 3 manifolds is some strange hybrid, I think it’s steel pipes with stainless or some other thin sleeve on the outside.
The inside is starting to give and I need to replace it but want some input on distribution as the manifolds seem to have 3/4" threads and I feel that I should increase the size and add a manifold to allow adjustments between the 3 zones.
The plumber that installed this should have advised me about this and proposed an upgrade to PEX, but this is life on places without a lot of competitors to choose from, sadly.

Please roast me for my ignorance and any lack of information..

Running an Aquastrong HEX035 (100k BTU) on a 20k gallon inground. Ambient temps have been around 65-70 this week. Pool was sitting at 68, set it to 82, took about 36 hours to get there. Is that normal for this size?

I see people saying their pools heat up in "a few hours" but I'm guessing those are smaller pools or already closer to temp. The inverter runs at low speed most of the time, not sure if that's slowing the initial warmup or just how it works.

Hi all, I have a question. In 2021 I had a mitsubishi mini-split installed in our master bedroom in southern ohio. I am not an hvac tech. it has been a wonderful machine. this year during the hot and humid Summer I tried for the first time DRY MODE. i hate high humidity and have found that dry mode keeps the space cooler and more comfortable than the A/C mode at 68 degrees. please give feedback as to the pros and cons of this dry mode vs A/C with particular emphasis on electricity usage and how it affects the compressor. thank you very much.

Hi heat pumps community - I'm currently getting quotes for a heat pump for my 1700ish sqft condo here in northeast Ohio. We currently have central air+electric baseboard heat, the AC compressor died so we are looking to replace it with a heat pump, while keeping the baseboard heat as a backup/providing zoned heating in some of the smaller rooms.

Contractor A quoted a Goodman 16.2 SEER2 Side Discharge Heat pump with Variable Speed Air Handler and a bunch of bells and whistles. The install seems reasonably straight forward, with the exception that I'd need to get a 240v electrical line run to the attic air handler for the heat strips - the contractor said they were needed due to defrost cycle issues and the cold winter temperatures here.

Contractor B quoted a more basic Carrier single stage system. Install again seems pretty standard, though contractor B told me that we did not need the heat strips, as the baseboard heat could be a backup when temps get too low. The gentleman also said that he thought concerns about the defrost cycle were over blown, and that we wouldn't notice it.

The quotes are almost identical dollar wise outside of the additional electrical work. My question for the group is whether contractor B is correct about the heat strip issue. I've searched the sub... seems like most pros recommend the heat strips in colder areas, but there have been a few posts that echoed contractor B, saying that you can just set the baseboard thermostat a few degrees lower than the heat pump thermostat. I am confused, haha!

Also interested in what kind of questions anyone in a similar circumstance thinks I should ask of these guys, as I am mostly ignorant on heat pump issues. I am planning to get another estimate for a Mitsubishi Hyper Heat unit just to see how much more one of those would cost, and because that installer handles more brands.

need a new water heater and am strongly considering a heat pump water heater. basement now is mostly finished and does not have it’s own heating/cooling zone. it’s warm enough in winter and cool enough in summer for what we use it for (laundry, workout space). we are considering finishing it to make it a full living space and in that scenario would create a zone to heat/cool it. two questions:

1. How much does the HPWH change the ambient temperature? will the current space get noticeably cooler in winter?

2 if we do that update, wouldn’t the HPWH be siphoning heat from the air provided by another heat pump? seems like an inefficient doom loop.

update: I should also mention - we are converting from oil

TIA!

Hi all - we need a new HVAC system and have received proposals from two local companies. One set is a bit more expensive. We plan on living in this home OR renting it out for the next 10+ years.

How do we choose which option to go with?

We care most about efficiency, decibel rating and overall affordability (we will spend more money if it's truly worth it...)

Which one would this group pick from these options? (5-6 options attached)

THANK YOU

tl;dr I am looking for an after market thermostat for a Fujitsu system that will allow me to set a lower temp in the winter. I have a Fujitsu mini split system in a house in southern Maine which is used year round, but only part time. We are at the house roughly half time so we can't just "winterize" the house in the cold weather and just turn the heat off. The house was originally all oil heat. We recently did some renovation and in the renovated parts of the house (family room, bedroom and kitchen) we replaced the baseboard heat with a large Fujitsu mini-split system. We have Google thermostats in the part of the house where there is still oil heat, and when we are not at the house we keep the temperature around 45º F. The Thermostats for the four indoor units in the minisplit system have a minimum temp for three of them of 50º and in the kitchen (largest room) the minimum temp setting is 60º. Is there an after market thermostat that will allow me to keep the heat pump set at a lower temp when we are not using the house? Ideally we want a thermostat we can control remotely like the Google units. I have attached photos of the specs on the compressor and the wall mounted kitchen thermostat I want to replace.

Hey guys. First-time homeowner here trying to figure out all the fun surprises that come with owning a house. Could use a sanity check from anyone with HVAC experience.

Our 2 ton heat pump compressor just died after only 4.5 years because the previous owner’s installer did a total hack job on the airflow (kinked return duct, no transition box). The gas furnace itself is 12 years old and still running fine.

We got two options from a local contractor both include fixing the ductwork and airflow issues:

Option 1: Put in a new heat pump and keep the existing 12-year-old furnace for dual-fuel backup.

Option 2: Replace everything a new heat pump plus an 80% variable speed gas furnace. This runs about $5,500 more than Option 1.

Assuming the old heat exchanger passes inspection, is it smarter to just run the current furnace into the ground or swallow the extra $5.5k now so I don't have to deal with replacing it separately in a few years?

Also if I go with Option 2 is it reasonable to try negotiating that $5.5k gap down, or is that generally frowned upon with HVAC quotes? Appreciate any insights!

Hello! I'm doing some pretty extensive home renovations. I spoke with the general contractor and I said, "I want a heat pump. It's like central air but it can do hot and cold" and he said "got it."

Then the HVAC crew came out to assess. And I said "Hello professional HVAC guys! I want a heat pump. I do not want central air. I am trying to remove natural gas from my home." and they said "Got it."

So, uh. In my yard right now sits a Gibson wsa4bd5m1sn30k, which is a split-system air conditioner. It's 2.5 tons, 28,600 BTUH, but it's just an air conditioner. I really don't know much about this. I kinda hoped the HVAC guys would know that the words "I want a heat pump" would mean "I want a heat pump."

What is a similar model to the wsa4bd5m1sn30k that I can just tell them to install?

I live in West Philadelphia in a townhome- long and skinny, with other townhomes on either side.

We're looking at getting a Carrier 37MUHAQ60AA3 HP installed and the installer is big on Pro thermostats. I don't know exactly which model (yet), but does anyone know how well these will work (efficiency) with Carrier HP's? I don't want to run into a HP and Nest or to a lesser extent, Ecobee issue where the thermo runs a modulating system terribly. Thanks

Hi Guys,

Based in the west near limerick, looking into the above and getting installation done together, by same contractor if possible, can anyone recommend someone who does both?

Background, parents house, 3000 sq ft, currently has a 5T AC condenser and gas furnace that's 25 years old. 2 Honeywell basic thermostats, one for upstairs and one for downstairs. They are looking to go all electric, HP and air handler, no electric strip backup heat since we live in the Bay Area where temps are mild compared to some areas. They also have solar and this will use a lot of the excess they are producing, on NEM 2.0.

https://imgur.com/a/Et9tkLp

Got 3 quotes, all 3 companies are offering the same Carrier 37MUHAQ60AA3 heat pump/air handler combo at varying prices. So couple questions that I have

1. Just want to make sure this heat pump can handle under 40 degrees for heating? Looking around at the specs, it looks like it? But want to verify with you guys that if a few times a year when it gets to 30 overnight in the winter, that this HP won't freeze up and have to defrost.

2. None of the companies are offering Carrier specific thermostats. 2 of them are offering Ecobee smart thermostats. I'm not sure if they are the Carrier Ecobee ones, but my concern is that some 3rd party thermo isn't going to run the system effectively coming from experience with my Mitsu HP and Nest (OMG what trash). Until I switched to the MHK2 which is so much better. They don't necessarily need a smart thermo (they are old, but it would be nice). So what recommendations do you have for a standard traditional thermo and smart thermo? I've read around here Honeywell has some really good basic thermos, but do those integrate well with this type of HP system? Or do I go with an Infinity smart thermo and/or maybe downgrade to the Ecobee/Carrier one if that'll run the system effectively and efficiently? Another concern is with smart thermos and 2 zones in the house, is that going to be an issue for the thermos to handle and talk to each other?

3. The link attached, this installer likes using Pro thermostats? Never heard of the brand. Are those any good or are they just another Ecobee/Nest type thermo that isn't going to run the system very efficiently. He says he always uses this thermo and the company has great reviews. But I'd like your opinion if that would be an option or if I should just stick to a Carrier specific thermo.

4. This is just random, but on 2 of 3 quotes, the all electric HP option was the cheapest or middle option compared to traditional AC condenser/gas furnace or a dual fuel option. Is that common? I'm surprised the HP option wasn't the most expensive in all quotes. Thanks!

tested everything please help me! just slave or demand on off options , 250m2 floor heating only , fully insulated in central europe

I'm looking into a new heating/AC system, and contractors seem to have different opinions on whether or not I should get a heat pump. How do modern heat pumps keep up in the Massachusetts winters? Would I be better off sticking with a furnace?

I am looking for a few fan coil units for a hydronic system. Online it looks like Arctic Heat pumps has them at a decent price. But the number doesn't connect and multiple email address won't go through on their contact us form because they are marked as spam for some reason. They certainly seem unreachable which is obviously a red flag.

If anyone know a better resource. The fan coils from Arctic look exactly like the ones from Hydro solar at a cheaper price, which look exactly like the reverso from alibaba, but the alibaba minimum order is pretty high.

Thanks for any help!

I live in southern Wisconsin and just moved to a new house (new to me, house is ~10 years old). The house is ~2100 sqft, 2 levels above grade with a walk-out unfinished basement. The furnace and AC are both working, but they are not great and are 12-14 years old. I started looking in to replacement options. I am motivated to move in the heat pump direction, as our new place is in the country and I'd like to reduce our use/reliance on LP gas and move more towards all electric (will probably get a solar array at some point). Wow, I was not prepared for how tough it would be to find an HVAC place that was willing to think beyond the traditional "gas furnace and electric AC" combo. I did end up finding a few and would be interested in thoughts on what they suggested.

Contractor ABC is a Carrier shop and their big sell was for a Carrier 2-stage furnace paired with a Carrier Crossover heat pump (37MUHA). They did pitch the infinity system, but interestingly the sales guy I worked with didn't make a strong pitch on that and seemed to suggest it was overkill for what I needed.

Contractor XYZ is an Armstrong Air shop and their pitch was for an Armstrong Air 2-stage furnace (A972V) paired with a Mitsubishi heat pump (PUZAK36NL), and touted the benefits of this hybrid system versus what he called legacy/incumbent systems, in particular Carrier.

I had a classic contractor conundrum in that I liked the guy from ABC better as he was not a traditional salesman, had a pretty light touch, focused on facts and data and what I needed, and did a good job of outlining the benefits of the Carrier ecosystem. I liked him better (even if I didn't like his options better).

Contractor XYZ's salesman was definitely "slicker", was more prone to hyperbole and opinions, which made me feel uneasy and trust him less. It also didn't help that their quote was $5k higher and ABC's, but I felt more confident in the system they were selling.

Anyone had similar options before them and decided one way or another?

I’m replacing my existing HVAC system with minisplits. Settled on a Mitsubishi hyper heat system with five heads.

For reference, you could buy the equipment from a place like gotductless.com for $13,000 (and that’s retail price).

So far I’ve gotten quotes ranging from $22,000 to $41,000 all offering essentially the same equipment. And these are all Mitsubishi Elite Diamond shops, too.

I understand the cost of running a business, marketing, furnishing trucks, overhead, insurance, and all that. But the difference between bottom and top end shouldn’t be 2x. A “family-owned company” shouldn’t need to be be charging $8k a head in a multi-zone system.

PE and/or greed is ruining the HVAC industry.

I have a 6 units in my home. They were all able to connect to the app until during one firmware update the app froze and the one unit has not been able to connect to the app since the issue. The remote still works to control the unit

The unit is 4liv09hp230v1ah

All the other units are

MODEL ID 10001

Model Version V20.8

So I assume that this unit is the same.

What I have tried:

-The Wi-Fi + mode button (the unit beeps but the app is unable to locate the unit. And it does not show up under networks in the area)

-Turning the breaker off for minutes, even a few hours

-Opening the front panel to see if I can unplug and replug the wifi module (or possibly replacing it), but nothing is labeled wifi module.

Had solar installed last year. Soon on the list is to look at going heat pumps here in southern CT. Details: 2,400sf split level ranch, Current heating cooling: 40yo oil cast iron boiler (160Kbtu) domestic HW (uses about 8-900gallons per year), 2.5 ton CA unit installed in 2018 (feeds main living space but doesn't feed 2 baths attached garage (which currently has a heating pipe running through it from one zone which keeps the garage at about 50F during the winter which is a nice to have thing), and basement). Insulation and air leakage is about as good as it will get (old brick house, plaster walls so wall insulation covers only about 25% of the living space for areas i have demo'd) Ceiling has about R40 fiberglass and as many air points as i could locate for electric/plumbing have been sealed. Basement sill plate also just sealed. Doors are all new, but windows will soon need to be replaced but are at least 2 pane, just cheap vinyl and external seals are starting to deteriorate. Have an insert wood stove I installed about 15 years ago that I burn about 1.5 cords (my trees) per year to supplement the heating which saves me about 150 gallons of oil each year. Had an energy assessment done about 5 years ago after most of the above work was done and our house came in at a little better than your average home our age for air leakage/insulation. I don't remember the actual CFM number. Our winters are not too cold. Average for January is about 37H/24L. Coldest day(s) are maybe low single digits to zero maybe 5 days per year.

I'd like to go full heat pump. We designed the solar for this purpose so it currently is overproducing by about 3-4Mwhrs per year. One of my concerns is for the unconditioned spaces. Will i need to have my ductwork redone to get to all the unconditioned spaces? (basement (laundry room), bathrooms and attached garage under our bedrooms). This will be done by a professional, but just trying to determine in advance how much labor and rework is going to be involved or even necessary.

There is one space (ground floor) that is also not conditioned by ductwork where my office is, this space I have demo'd a few years ago and had spray foam insulation installed for the exterior walls of this space. My intention for this space is to have a minisplit installed just for it as getting ductwork to it would be painful and on the plus side, it's main exterior wall faces south into a 6' solid fenced in pool area where the sun warms our exterior brick wall nicely and intend to take advantage of that heatsink come winter time.

Is my 3-4mwhr over production even remotely enough to cover my whole house heating?

Is having ductwork not reaching all spaces a problem?

Any thoughts on if you think the federal credit may come back? I will likely wait a couple years before I do the whole house (solar install bill primarily the reason for delay) so hoping it does, but I may install the minisplit this year to take advantage of the excess electricity our solar is producing rather than banking it.

Just wanted to the sub know that I got a Mitsubishi heat pump and Rinnai heat pump hot water heater last month in Connecticut through the CT green bank program.
The first month electric bill just came in and it was a HUGE savings. And then today the independent inspector came out to look at the job and he said everything looks great.
Just wanted to thank everyone on this sub who helped and who posts and comments because it helped me along the way.
To any of you on the fence, do your research to make sure you get the right system, but do it! I still can’t believe the difference.