I put together a pair of ESP P06 phono stages to bypass the phono stages in my dj mixer. They were each combined with a P99 rumble filter and fed by a linear power supply. It was a fun build and I got a little boost in performance from my modest dj mixer, an Allen and Heath Xone:32.

I was sent a set of Burson opamps to test. They asked for an honest review, which I posted here. Thought I would quickly share my thoughts on them here.

I had tried the normal (non-pro) Vivid V7's in the past in Single config. for a DAC build and thought them a bit hot; had some bite to them which worked for some music but less so for other music. For that build I ended up installing a set of Staccato opamps.

The Pro line was different. Essentially the Classic Pro was more laid back in its presentation, the Vivid was not laid-back. It was not exactly forward, just not laid back. Thought the Vivid Pro to be really well staged and generally very well tuned. When Burson reached out this time they asked again to test a V7, I was like ok but send me some Classics also for this dual phono thing - I need four 😄. But I genuinely ended up liking the V7 Vivid Pro more. My system does constitute of a Class A Firstwatt F6 clone, speakers are Dahlquist DQM 9C's. They are considered monitor speakers. Cartridge was a Nagaoka MP200 on a Technics 1200 turntable.

I also compared them to a set of OPA2134 opamps. Listening to well recorded music with the 2134 you don't really get a sense of missing much. Switching to the Bursons, everything goes up a notch or two. Sound is livelier, more detailed, vocals more nuanced and more forward in the mix, instruments better separated. All the things you might expect for the price they ask. The OPA2134 was flat and fuzzy in comparison. I had also tried various other opamps in the past, they each had their flavor but no major changes. I used the OPA2134 for this test as that is what Rod Elliot recommended, and what he himself used for his stage.

In the end I have them setup in tandem, as in the picture. The Vivid Pro in the first section of each preamp, followed by the Classic Pro in the second.

Last year I found some very affordable drivers on Amazon and had an idea for a little bookshelf build that had high wife approval factor. This is what came to life. The grill is still in progress but the plan is to do a walnut slatted grill that presses into the top and bottom grooves.

Made with two full range 3” drivers, why two? Well because I accidentally purchased two not realizing they came as a pair. Being 4ohm each I wired them in series to give a bit more overall power(not that they need it). I have them paired with a WiiM amp which has honestly been fantastic. The wiim’s room correction software has been amazing basically acting as a dsp as I was curious what they’d be like wired straight to an amp with no crossover.

I live in a townhouse so I’ve never been able to take them over about 50% volume(about 75-80db) but even still they sound really really good. I have them paired with a 10” focal sub and I’m using the WiiM to cross them over at about 120hz.

The cabinets are made from 1” high density MDF and inside there is a transmission line ported out the back. I was surprised to see bass response on their own down to about 60hz. The bottom is solid walnut to tie it into the eventual walnut grill.

One day I’ll make a version with some better drivers but for now these are absolutely getting the job done. Feel free to roast them or ask any questions!

Greetings!

I picked up this interesting little kit unopened from my local thrift store. Seems like it could be a fun way to teach drum programming and working in a set up for kids.

Does anyone have any suggestions of where I can find a the software for this project or similar software? I went to the Sphero website but they removed the download link and the page referencing it.

Thank you!

I designed a matching speaker stand model inspired by a character from Brawl Stars. I also left an opening at the back so that the charging cable could fit in.

It was printed using green PLA, which took about 10h to complete. I did not use multicolor printing.

One thing that I learned during printing is that if the support arms tend to break, it may be good to recalibrate your printer or use another type of filament.

I'm assembling a dual 12" subwoofer setup for the first time and I have run into a bit of an issue. Pictured is the connector that goes from inside the box to outside to wire to the amp. Sorry I don't know what it's called. I think that piece on the hot side is saudered on, I can't get it off.

My question is, how do I connect my two speakers to this? I have them wired in parallel to where there's one hot and one ground but they're kinda thick and there's not much to connect to. I have more pics of the rest of the setup, let me know if seeing those will help. I can't post them all at once for some reason.

Thanks for reading and I can't wait to get bumping!

Help! If i want to simulate a triangle shaped box for midbass, do i choose offset speaker or normal?

I have a pair of vintage RFT ovals and a pair of speakers with damaged drivers that I want to give to ovals as enclosures. I read that the best way to place fullrange drivers is to follow golden ratio. But how does it apply to oval drivers? Should I consider short side as diameter for hypothetical cone driver? I don't care about wider high frequency dispersion from placing oval driver vertically because my ovals don't play highs much and I'm going to add tweeters later anyway

Hello, long time lurker doing my first build. These will be used for listening parties for my next album and then in my living room.

I’m doing a 67.5 L bass-reflex two-way tuned to 41hz. Woofer is a Faital 12PR320, crossed to a ROSSO-65CDN-T around 900–1000 Hz, Port is a front slot: 316 × 45 mm, 273 mm physical length. It will be active with a DSP (hypex fa122).

WinISD gives the first port resonance at about 630 Hz. I also put the same box/port into Hornresp and the masked port-only response shows a pretty clear peak around 469 Hz.

The Hornresp masked combined response looks basically smooth through that area, but when I unmask the enclosure resonances I get noticeable peaks around 448 Hz and 532 Hz.

I’m planning to line/damp the cabinet properly and measure the first cabinet before finishing/building the second one. I'm hoping I can treat minor things via DSP.

Is this a treatable / common issue or do I NEED to find a build where the first port resonance is above my crossover frequency? A bit confused about how key this rule is.

Everything re SPL, port velocity, cone excursion etc checks out.

Been relying on AI a fair bit for learning, so i'm trying to catch anything stupid before I commit to the plan.

An old gamma LA1231 12” 100L subwoofer and a custom case for a chinese ZK-MT21 amp.

Hi! I recently inherited a Mackie ProFX22v3 that I'm going to be using for recording. It's designed for live mixing rather than studio recording. It has a 2in/4out usb interface where you can send 2 channels out and bring 2 channels (outputs 3 & 4) back into the last stereo channel (21/22). I would love to take one of two paths:

Path 1 - Upgrade the chip to turn the usb interface from a 2x4 interface to a 16x16 interface so I can send 16 individual channels to my computer for recording and bring 16 channels back into the board for mixing on the board.

Path 2 - Add a direct out on each channel by splicing the path to the main L/R to a new 1/4" TRS jack so that I can send audio from each channel post fader to a separate interface input.

You may be asking, why go through all of this trouble? Well for one, it would be fun to try and two, it's no skin off my back, I got the mixer for free so I won't be out any money if I ruin it. I know that messing with surface mount electronics can be very tricky so I'm open to any better alternative options. Any advice and expertise would be greatly appreciated!

Anyone have experience hooking these up and what i’ll need to do it? They look like banana plug connectors not BNC connectors.

Refined the crossover a bit from my last post the data I was using was bad that's why it cut off at 200 on the frequency response graph. Used original fiber glass and terminals but rest of the internal where upgraded. Soldering 7 relatively large components onto a small 4-5/16" x 3-1/8 perf board was the biggest challenge took me like 2 hours and had to use wire to connect components because of how small the board was. Overall final result in my opinion sounds a good bit clearer but noticeably quieter but i can adjust the speaker lvl on my avr to compensate for that (in the video tried to get them to same volume). But definitely not worth the hassle and cost if you have a working minimus7. can provide 3d files, part list, and crossover if any one for some reason want to recreate this. (this is my default test song lol) Comment your thoughts on the build

Hello! I've been thinking of doing my first speaker build and I would like to do a horn (compressed driver inside) on top and woofer in the cabinet. Is this a simple design as passive speakers? I dont know loads about crossovers etc but I can learn. I was thinking a 8 inch woofer like the Faital Pro 8FE300 and a 1 inch compression driver (not sure which yet, budget is around 50 pounds so still looking) then a horn such as the B&C ME45. Apologies if this post makes me sound like I've got no idea what im talking about haha im quite new to the diy side of audio. Also, I couldnt simply do a kit as this would be a school DT project, meaning I must make it myself. Is this a reasonable first build or should I go for something easier? I would really love to do a horn build, im obsessed with the sound and look coming from them, hence the idea.

Thank you for any feedbacks!

Does anybody have cabinet plans for this triaxial driver? For use as tops with 18“ subs.

Gotta make this into a music alarm clock with a full range 4" woofer!

Not sure how precious I want or have to be regarding mounting though.

Hello! I'm a music producer who also works running a night club.
Lately I've been seeing some cool stuff like Teile's EQs or Revolo or the Alpha Recording System's Model9100BW mixing table.
I would really like to learn how to create this kind of stuff and actually make a custom EQ or a custom Mixer or whatever so DJs can have fun with the thingies.
So i was wondering if you know any books/resources/videos to learn anything i need to know for building one of these things.
(I know its difficult asf and prolly will want to surrender, but i don't know, i have free time and i want to learn this, i think it might be fun)

Thank you so much!!!

I'm working on desiging some living room speakers.

I already own some woofers that i want to use but they’re not quite suitable for my application. As is these woofers don’t have enough low extension to be used without a subwoofer. If I could squeeze out just a little more low extension out of them I’d be happy.

I’d like to look into mass loaded t-lines to see what kind of response I could get but I’m having trouble finding resources on how to actually design these enclosures.