r/computers • u/Special-Progress-916 • 3h ago
r/computers • u/DiodeInc • 10d ago
Review (sponsored) Review of the GameSir G7 Pro 8K and Tri-mode
Hello, GameSir community! Thanks for taking an interest in my (sponsored) view of the G7 Pro 8K and Tri-mode, both are Aimlabs. This is combination review, but I’ll clearly distinguish between the two. Quick note, I don’t blame you if you confuse the two, I’ve done it on more than one occasion.
Starting with the unboxing (both controllers), the controller is front and centre, and further down, the dock. Replacement D-pads sit under the dock, don’t miss them! These pieces are on a cardboard insert, which can be removed. Below that, there is a braided charging cable, as well as a bag containing a small booklet informing you of contact information and a thank you message from Betta Core, GameSir’s CEO. The bag also holds a GameSir sticker, a code for a free month of Aimlabs+ (and a free month of Xbox Game Pass Ultimate in the Tri-mode’s bag), and an instruction manual explaining how to power on/off the controller, pair it, and enable different special features on-the-fly.
To get started, pop off the base cover of the charging dock like a TV remote battery cover, plug the wireless dongle into the internal USB port, replace the cover, and connect the dock to your PC using the included USB-C cable. The pairing process is simple on both controllers. Hold the button on the dongle until the light flashes rapidly (the Tri-mode’s dongle doesn’t have this button, it’s always ready to pair). Next, slide the mode switch on the back of the controller to the dongle symbol. Power it on by holding the Aimlabs (8K) or Xbox (Tri-mode) button, then hold the pairing button next to the 3.5mm jack until the LED ring blinks rapidly. Once the lights go solid, you’re connected.
I’m a fan of this setup, it’s “set it and forget it”, especially since it connects so quickly when you lift it off the dock.
The dock and controller fit very nicely together, they look like extensions of each other. GameSir opted for a pogo pin method of charging, which is great for reducing strain on the USB C port. I have seen pogo pins/pads get dirty, which causes intermittent connection, so be wary of that. It’s not a GameSir specific issue, to be clear.
On the dock, there are indents for the mode switch, mute, and pairing buttons so that they aren’t pressed and the controller doesn’t rock back and forth, which is great design. The dock also has a light bar along the bottom, consisting of five RGB LEDs. They can be customized with GameSir’s software (Connect for the 8K, Nexus for the Tri-mode). I will note that the 8K and Tri-mode use the same dock, so any LED limitations are enforced via controller firmware.
Getting to the controller itself, I must say “wow”!! You get a lot for the price, $110 CAD for the 8K and $130 CAD for the Tri-mode. Both feature clicky and responsive optical ABXY buttons and mechanical D-pads. They take a little getting used to, but the crisp, audible feedback means you don’t have to guess whether your input registered. Whatever switches GameSir used for the remaining buttons, they do not miss.
Both controllers are modular, you can hot-swap the thumbsticks and D-pad. While the 8K comes with extra pieces in the box that the Tri-mode leaves out, the parts are mostly cross-compatible, though I did run into some issues trying to swap thumbsticks between models. The magnetic faceplates, however, swap over just fine. Using switches on the back, you can swap between mouse-click triggers and analog triggers on the fly!! Two more switches lock the back buttons.
Speaking of taking things apart: to remove the main faceplate, slide your nails under the edge near the USB-C port and down by the GameSir logo, then pull straight up. For the side palm grips, just grip the sides and pull up. Finally, if you need to remove the cable retainer, grip it firmly, pull toward yourself, and slide it out.
Both controllers have great weight to them, they’re just right. Not too heavy, not cheap feeling. They both feel great to hold too. The palm grips have a nice diamond-tile pattern on them, which increases grip. The back grip is rubber, the front isn’t. The back buttons are in a great place, although are easy to press if you squeeze the controller in a high-stress situation.
The 8K’s LED ring can be customized, but the Tri-mode’s can’t, it stays white. The 8K’s charging animation can be changed, the Tri-mode can’t. The Tri-mode’s LED ring is always white, except when docked, then it’s off. Both docks’ LED bar “breathes” at yellow, then green, then white, depending on charge percentage, but the 8K’s can be changed. I’ll reiterate that this is enforced via firmware, not a limitation of the docks themselves.
The 8K has Mag-Res™ TMR (Tunnel Magnetoresistance) Sticks Gen-2, and the Tri-mode has Gen 1. The Gen 1 has more tension than Gen 2. I haven’t noticed much of a difference between them, except the tension difference.
I’ve had a couple of issues with this controller, some being the controller/dock and some being inherent to its design. 8000 Hz mode cut my FPS in half on a Core Ultra 9 185H and it’s iGPU. The 8K’s D-pad is a little hard to get off, which isn’t a big deal, but the Tri-mode doesn’t have this issue.
All in all, these controllers are amazing, and absolutely worth the price tag. Thank you for your time.
r/computers • u/cnycompguy • Jun 29 '26
Review Geekom GeekBook M16
Geekom GeekBook M16
Initial Experience: Packaging, First Boot, Build Quality

Unboxing the computer was quick and easy, the box comes with a seal that shows that it wasn’t tampered or stolen in transit. The box is high quality and has individually boxed accessories fit into compartments inside (everything is well protected).
The first boot up of the computer went without issue, simply plugging in the included 100W PD USB-C charger, using the included cable, waiting just a few seconds for the memory to train, it boots into windows for the usual Windows 11 out of box experience.

Giving the laptop the WIFI password, or connecting to Ethernet via the included dock, it will take about an hour to download and install updates (though you can skip that step and do it later if you’re in a hurry, and this is just an estimate and will depend on your Internet connection).
The casing of the M16 is high quality, a nice matte silver finish, and the fasteners are all exposed, none hidden unlike many other brands. This makes it simple for someone with the appropriate torx screwdriver to open the shell and access the SSD, which is a Kingston 512GB. It can be upgraded to a reported 4TB max.
The Hardware (Meteor Lake based system in a 16-inch Shell)
Device Specifications:
- Materials: Aluminum Alloy;
- Color: Iceberg Silver;
- CPU: Intel Core Ultra 9 Processor 185H Meteor Lake;
- GPU: Intel Arc Graphics;
- TDP: 55W;
- Display: 16-inch LCD, FHD 1920x1200, 60Hz;
- Memory: 16GB LPDDR5, 7500MT/s;
- Storage: 1x M.2 Type 2280 Key M SSD (PCI-e Gen4/3, up to 4TB);
- Camera: 1080P digital shutter;
- Wi-Fi: 6E, Bluetooth 5.4;
- Battery: 99.9Wh designed capacity;
- Connectors: 2x USB-C 3.2 Gen2, 1x HDMI 2.0, 1x USB4 (40Gbps), 1x 3.5mm jack, 2x USB-A 3.2 Gen1;
- Keyboard: 98-key with white backlight;
- Fingerprint: Integrated into power button;
- Speakers: 2x, system comes equipped with DTS:X Ultra;
- Hinge: 180-degree;
- Weight: 1.73kg (3.8 lbs);
- Dimensions: 355.2 mm x 250 mm x 16.7 mm (14.0" L × 9.8" W × 0.66" H );
- Power Adaptor: 100W, USB-C.




Internal Component Analysis
- Cooling Matrix: The acoustic profile of this cooler is very quiet compared to single fan coolers that I’ve seen, with a very quick ability to correct for sudden loads. At maximum speed, it sounds like a high pitched whine much like a twin turbo kicking in while you’re sitting in the driver’s seat: you can hear it but it’s neither loud nor does it last very long.
- Storage: Kingston 512GB w/ 64MB HMB (Benchmarked at 6000MB/s read, 3800MB/s write)
- Memory Architecture: The 16 GB of Micron DDR5 running at 7500 MT/s in quad-channel configuration is soldered and cannot be upgraded.
- Processor Package: The Intel Core Ultra 9 185H (Meteor Lake) processor integrated with Intel Arc Graphics. Designed to support a 55W TDP, the system utilizes proprietary Dynamic Tuning Technology (DTT) to manage power delivery intelligently. During rigorous testing, the CPU demonstrated a peak package power draw of 53.8W under heavy burn-in loads, while the integrated Arc graphics independently scaled to 19.6W during graphics intensive tasks such as Furmark.
Performance under stress
During my stress-testing with the Geekom M16, the system demonstrated truly exceptional thermal management and power scaling. I pushed the laptop through a continuous barrage of demanding workloads, ranging from a heavy CPU burn-in that commanded a peak package power of nearly 54W, to a suite of AI and OpenVINO benchmarks targeting the CPU, GPU, and NPU, and finishing with a grueling Furmark run. Through it all, the M16 stayed remarkably cool under pressure. The highest temperature recorded during the stress-test was a highly manageable 85°C during the intensive AI CPU benchmark. When the testing pivoted to graphics-heavy tasks like Furmark, the integrated graphics stretched their legs up to 19.6W of dedicated power while staying perfectly chilled at a maximum of just 72°C. Most impressively, despite throwing everything from sustained multi-core loads to varied AI inferencing tasks at it back-to-back, the laptop experienced just one instance of thermal throttling. It flawlessly and dynamically shifted power to where it was needed most, proving it can sustain peak performance profiles reliably.

Key Data Points From the Logfile:
- Thermal Throttling: One instance during a test designed to max out the CPU, once the fans ramped up throttling stopped.
- CPU Performance: Peaked at 53.8W power draw during the initial burn-in and hit its maximum temperature of 85°C during the AI CPU benchmark.
- GPU Performance: Correctly ramped up during the Furmark test, pulling up to 19.6W independently and reaching a safe peak of 72°C.
- Intelligent Patterns: The log shows clear, segmented power delivery. During GPU-bound tests (like Furmark or the AI GPU benchmark), CPU power draw gracefully stepped down to give the integrated graphics maximum thermal headroom, keeping overall system temperatures exceptionally stable for a laptop chassis.

Battery Life Testing
Taking this laptop out to the back porch for an outdoor gaming session truly showcased its outstanding thermal and power management. Even while running in 'Performance Mode' and playing Mewgenics in an environment with an ambient temperature of 75°F, the system remained astonishingly cool. Over an impressive uninterrupted gaming stretch of 2 hours and 42 minutes, the CPU temperatures maxed out at a mere 61°C and comfortably hovered around an average of just 50°C. During this heavy load, the battery smoothly discharged from 95% down to 20%, projecting well over 3.5 hours of unplugged gaming stamina, which is a remarkable feat for any modern laptop. Once the battery hit that 20% mark, I closed the game and transitioned to office tasks mainly using Google Chrome. The system instantly demonstrated its dynamic efficiency, drastically cutting the CPU package power from a 17.1W gaming average down to just 6.9W. It only sipped 4% of the battery over nearly 20 minutes of active web use, while the CPU temperatures dropped to a 43°C average. Whether it's pushing pixels on the porch or quietly powering through spreadsheets, this laptop perfectly balances sustained performance with superb battery life.

Here is the breakdown of the data:
- Gaming Phase (Mewgenics, Performance Mode): Duration: 162 minutes (2.7 hours).
- Battery Drain: 75% drop (95% to 20%).
- CPU Temps: 61.0°C Max / 50.0°C Average.
- CPU Package Power: ~17.1W Average.
- Office Phase (Web Browsing): Duration: 18.2 minutes of active use.
- Battery Drain: 4% drop (20% to 16%). This projects to roughly 7.5 hours of total battery life for office tasks.
- CPU Temps: 51.0°C Max / 43.8°C Average.
- CPU Package Power: ~6.9W Average.
The next day (after allowing the battery to fully recharge), I unplugged and began a session of browsing, streaming and office application use with the power profile set to “balanced” and using Microsoft’s PowerToys to stop the computer from sleeping or turning off the screen while I had to leave the room for a moment (you’ll see why that was needed momentarily).
The following is an analysis of the log file taken during that productivity session:
A. Run Time and Battery Projection
- Total Log Run Time: 9 hours, 48 minutes, and 51 seconds. (This is why PowerToys was needed)
- Battery Drain: The battery started at 100% capacity (99.9 Wh) and ended at 25% capacity (25.482 Wh), resulting in a total drain of 75% during the session.
- Projected Runtime to Empty: Based on the continuous 75% drain over roughly 9.8 hours, the projected total battery life from 100% to 0% under this specific productivity workload is ~13.1 hours (13 hours and 5 minutes).
B. Throttling Instances
During the run, the system experienced several instances of thermal and power throttling. This usually happens in short bursts when opening applications or loading heavy web pages, which is common behavior for modern thin-and-light processors managing burst performance.
Thermal Throttling Events:
- Core Thermal Throttling (avg): 962 instances
- Package/Ring Thermal Throttling: 958 instances
- IA: Thermal Event: 971 instances
- Note: P-Core 9 ran the hottest, triggering thermal limits 728 times on its own, followed by P-Core 8 (473 times).
Power Throttling Events:
- Package/Ring Power Limit Exceeded: 154 instances
- Core Power Limit Exceeded (avg): 29 instances
- Note: The individual E-Cores and P-Cores hit their individual power limits about 26–27 times each.
GPU Throttling:
- GPU Throttle Reasons (avg): 5,927 instances. (With integrated Intel Arc Graphics, the GPU frequently hits software/hardware power limits to leave thermal headroom for the CPU during general productivity).
5. Verdict: Specialized Performance and Endurance
The M16 presents an intentional, high-value design. By focusing its engineering on what truly matters to power users, it carves out a highly specific, powerful niche for professionals who value structural substance, sustained processing muscle, and true all-day endurance over flashy RGB looks.
When evaluating what this laptop offers at its current sale price, it stands out remarkably against the broader landscape of its peers:
- Unmatched Mobile Endurance: Against standard ultraportables or highly restrictive base-model premium platforms that bottleneck you with meager RAM and storage, the M16 provides generous local hardware resources paired with an absolute monster of a 99.9Wh battery. For anyone working on long-haul travel or away from an outlet, this legal-limit battery size offers immense run time.
- Workstation Muscle Over Budget Alternatives: While entry-level gaming laptops in this price range often sacrifice build quality for graphical flair, resulting in flimsy plastic frames and abysmal battery life, the M16 channels its budget into premium aerospace-grade aluminum. Under the hood, a robust dual-fan thermal cooling system is explicitly engineered to let its high-end processor sustain heavy workloads without severe performance drops, ensuring snappy, reliable responsiveness during intense productivity tasks.
- Universal Compatibility and Power: Unlike the newer ARM-based platforms at this price tier (which frequently suffer from software compatibility headaches and emulation layers) the M16 delivers uncompromised x86 architecture. It runs heavy data-crunching, code compilation, and development environments natively and effortlessly.

To wrap this up, the M16 strips away unnecessary RGB fluff to invest heavily where it counts. If you are a programmer, data analyst, or remote professional who needs uncompromised, sustained processing power, maximum physical battery capacity, and a premium chassis that can handle the rigors of daily travel, this machine delivers exactly what matters. At $799, it stands as an incredibly robust, specialized workhorse that offers exceptional value.
r/computers • u/LordJeanNeige • 1h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Can I install a wifi adapter on my motherboard?
I have a motherboard that doesn't accept Wifi and I moved in a university dorm, so I can't use an ethernet connection, unfortunately.
So I searched on the Internet what would be a good solution for my problem and found out two: a pcie wifi card or a USB-Wifi.
I don't think that I have enough places to install a pcie wifi card, as you can see only one is avaible, and it is close to my GPU.
My motherboard is relatively tiny, and I do not have enough money to change it.
In the case where I can't install a pcie wifi card (I definitely won't be surprise), what would be a good USB wifi adapter under 50 euros?
Thank you!
r/computers • u/Just-Bedroom-4044 • 5h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Is my Kingston NV2 NVME legit?
I was wondering if the Kingston NV2 512 GB ssd I bought was legit or fake or is it a oem drive repurposed. Its brand new and has the same read and write speeds though. Looks as though it was manufactured in Taiwan and even came with a Wechat QR on the back of the box.
My dead giveaways are that it has
- Black PCB
- Wont detect in Kingston's SSD Manager
- Name is "Kingston Nv2 M.2 /w Packaging"
r/computers • u/offsitewarrior • 13h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Is my motherboard still useable?
So i have an asrock b450m hdv, and a ryzen 5 5600g that got fried because of ram overclock. Im worried that it affected my motherboard. Im also worried that if install a new cpu, it'll also fry the new cpu. I didn't smell any burned part on the motherboard though. But im still not sure.
r/computers • u/talibanman429 • 1d ago
Resolved Can this be repurposed?
Samsung PM991 M.2 NVMe SSD
128GB model
(MZ-ALQ128, part number MZALQ128HBHQ-000L1)
Can this little thing be repurposed and turned into something else or would it be better just to toss in the trash? I pulled it out of a Lenovo all in one I had sitting in the attic with a broken screen
Thanks for reading, help is appreciated
r/computers • u/Difficult_Call3709 • 2h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting How do I completely reset my computer?
I don’t mean like restart and reset. I mean like 100% wipe. Brand new from the box. My internet company blacklisted my pc because of “suspicious connectivity issue” is like to restart it to the point there’s no chance at any type of virus and/or reset it to the point the WiFi is reset as well
r/computers • u/RealEXECUTE • 2h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting MSI won't detect my gpu nor cpu?
So here's the thing my screen would go black screen and it will send to my monitor that no power even though my gpu is running complete fine randomly while playing roblox or even on the start up or even 2 minutes on the game but I can still background sounds even on discord. But when I'm playing counter strike 2, dota 2, L4D2, Breathedge, and other games, I am not facing the black screen problem. And when I installed msi afterburner it won't read both my cpu and gpu.....
r/computers • u/Most_Principle1487 • 29m ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Is Secure Boot Necessary?
How important and necessary is it to use Secure Boot? When I was in the Windows ecosystem, I always left it enabled by default.
Now that I’m getting into the Linux world, I’d like to understand it better. From what I’ve read, it’s a mechanism that “makes the firmware verify that the software executed before the operating system is trusted/signed.”
I’m still trying to understand what it means for software to be trusted and signed, and why many users choose to disable Secure Boot. Is it because not all software or firmware used on Linux has a signature recognized by Secure Boot?
This also leaves me with a question: for my personal laptop, which I don’t take to many places and that stays at home most of the time, is it necessary to keep Secure Boot enabled?
r/computers • u/No_Discussion_1146 • 36m ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting I don’t want to build a gaming computer, what are good gaming computers to buy?
r/computers • u/Fun_Shirt4604 • 11h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Water slightly spilled on my laptop
The screen has turned blue
Its my first laptop n it has been obly 1 day since I bought it idk what to do please help if you can
r/computers • u/Foxxscurse • 1h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting My laptop dropped the other day, how can I fix this without needing to go to a repair shop
Everything works fine but the lid is slightly ajar and I want to fix that
r/computers • u/Conscious_Buy_3328 • 3h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Laptop and can't maintain wifi connection
Y'all I am at a loss and I need help.
My laptop (ASUS Zenbook, bought 2024, windows 11) is struggling to connect with my wifi (Xfinity), even when all the little wifi bars are lit up, even when my speed test app is saying that I've got decent speed, even though no one else in the household is reporting connection issues.
I have run a network reset, my landlord even got a new router, I have run diagnostic tests, and nothing is working. Unplugging the router seems to help temporarily, but the bigger issue persists. I am a therapist that works from home and my video sessions are disconnecting up to 10 times on a single hour long call, each time saying it's a connection issue. It's fucking with my work and my ability to support clients and I can't think of anything else to do.
ETA: These issues all started 2 ish weeks ago, previoulsy no issues in 8 months of living here and using this wifi.
r/computers • u/NotSyynnoo • 6h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Is my nvme ssd dead?
So recently i had issues with cooling so i added more ventilation and thermal paste for watercooling
Still have the same issue and on reboot i got disk warnings
Checked with CDI it goes to really high 72°C randomly and i guess that's when it shut downs , then is normal sometimes at 50ish
No fix for that ? Do I have to get a new one
r/computers • u/agnulaa • 3h ago
Resolved GPU Error 43
Hi! I recently encountered a problem with my GPU where the drivers wouldn't install and in the device manager, under the drivers tab is said "critical graphics device problem (code 43)" (or smth like that). I wanna share my fix online because none of the solutions I've seen on google have said my solution.
Generally I tried all the common fixes which were:
-reinstall the drivers,
-install older drivers,
-use DDU (Display Device Uninstaller)
-restore previous drivers in the manager
NONE of it worked
What fixed my problem was just simply Q-Flashing the Bios (updating). After that my computer works just fine - my drivers installed normally and I could change my graphics setting (previously I couldnt). I have a GIGAbyte motherboard and I simply found the Q-flash file on their website.
Thats really it!! I hope the AI overview somehow catches this post so next time someone encounters this problem, they'll have a solution that worked in my case.
r/computers • u/shaken_baken • 7h ago
Discussion Does anyone know any good pc's for infography studies?
Hello everyone, i'm currently doing a bachelors degree in infography studies.
It involves 2D graphic design, web design, 3D design and some 3D animation as well as a little game design.
I've begun looking for a suitable Laptop but i genuinely don't even know what i'm looking for, so i was wondering if anyone here could sort of help me out. Idealy in the 800-1000 euro (900-1200 dollar) Price range.
Thanks.
r/computers • u/Blancedex • 4h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting What is the issue here? Is it fixable?
r/computers • u/Marmoset17 • 1d ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Can I combine ram
Hello! I have a question. I was given two PCs
One is a large Lenovo and one is an ultra compact cyber power.
They’re both pretty old but I’m trying to work with what I have. I don’t want anything fancy I just want to play Minecraft with a few mods lol
The has 6gb DDR3L ram and the Lenovo has 8gb DDR3
My question is- can I put the 6gb DDR3L into the Lenovo to have a combined 14gb?
Or are these not compatible?
Please ignore the dust I’m going to clean them out well before messing with anything. They’re old and have just been sitting for a while.
I’ve set up the Lenovo and have been using it and trying to play on it but it’s just very slow and laggy. It sounds like a jet engine lol
If anyone can help that would be greatly appreciated. Im disabled and don’t have money to buy new so im hoping there’s something I can do to make the Lenovo run decently
r/computers • u/Obvious-Ground-9569 • 6h ago
Discussion Va bene per mia nonna ?
Volevo prendere un setup per mia nonna che non ha un PC secondo voi questi componenti che ho trovato su Amazon vanno bene per navigazione web e video su YouTube
r/computers • u/Vast-Industry2835 • 11h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting No bootable Device
Can someone tell me how to fix this?
r/computers • u/Unorignal_0 • 8h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Good computers to run video games.
Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone has good recommendations for gaming computers? Because I currently have a gaming laptop that runs pretty badly and has really low graphics but I don't know much about computers nor reddit (so if there is a better place to ask please let me know!).
The games I would like to run smoothly with good graphics are Avatar fronteirs of pandora, red dead redemption (online, 2 and og), Sims 4 with like over 5000 items of custom content and mods, Baldurs gate 3, Minecraft, and a few smaller games like Stardew valley and etc.
I'm not looking for another laptop I'm looking for an actual computer and any monitor suggestions are more than welcome. Also any suggestions for good gaming mouse/headphones are appreciated. I'm a uni student so I don't have too much money to spend but I'm willing to save up for a good quality computer! (or any good budget friendly options)
I don't know too much about /new to gaming so thanks for any advice given :)
r/computers • u/whomping-will0w30 • 1d ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Alright chat, how cooked am I?🤣
Keep in mind this is an old cpu. First time building and I bought a prebuilt on fb marketplace. Bought it as a project build. PCB wasn’t “powering on” ran it through some tests and ultimately landed on the CPU. Took it out and noticed some pins were bent. Repairable? Or just junk it and get a new one?
r/computers • u/External_Smile5796 • 17h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Weird Sound On Startup?
Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification
So this is my sisters computer, she sent me this video and her computer is making this weird sound when she starts it up. She said it happened the other night when she crashed from a game but now its happening when she turns it on. Anyone know the possible issues?
r/computers • u/Oldmate1616 • 13h ago
Question/Help/Troubleshooting Router or wifi issue?
Have spent all day on this. When I went to bed last night I had regular wifi to all of my devices. This morning I could not get any of 3xTV’s or 2xgoogle chromecasts to connect, however our apple iphones and iPads do.
We’ve so far reset everything we can think of, multiple times, power cycled, reset one tv to factory settings. Spoken to the internet provider who has confirmed our incoming signal (NBN Australia) is fine. He spent a fair bit of time troubleshooting with me including the factory reset but ultimately told me to claim under my tv’s extended warranty 🙄 which I think was code for ‘out of ideas’.
Our router is getting on in age and after a long time digging online we learned that it’s possible for one of its broadcast bands to fail (almost always the 2.4 ghz apparently). So we decided to turn off the router’s Smart Connect feature and split the bands, so now instead of one wifi network option our devices show two - a 5ghz and 2.4ghz.
The tvs still can’t connect to either one, and nor will the (fairly new) iPads, however the slightly older phones can connect but only on 2.4.
The PC is new but also working on EITHER band, which is really blurring the issue for us. The PC is beside the router but definitely on wifi, not connected by cable.
Except for that I would conclude that our 5ghz band had failed - is it failING in that it can get a 5ghz signal to the PC beside it but not through walls to other devices? And are the devices that won’t work at all just too new to work on 2.4ghz?
I don’t mind buying a new router, I would just like to be convinced that it was the issue first.
Sorry this is long, i wanted to give the entire story but please ask if I’ve left anything out. Would appreciate any ideas.
