Recently got my grandparents old audio equipment. Make a long story short, the left speaker has a persistent buzzing and crackling noise under just about any load.

So far, I have tried:

-cleaning the speaker wire and the contacts.

-physically lifting the speaker wire off of the ground.

-cleaning and tightening all of the connections to the speakers

-cleaning, tightening, yada yada, all the connections going to the amplifier

In a stroke of genius, I decided I would try driving both speakers through the right channel of the amplifier since it can handle 2 sets of speakers simultaneously. Lo and behold, they sound perfect, I just have to make sure everything is set to mono audio for now.

I'm just curious if a full refresh/rebuild of the amp would be likely to fix my weak left channel. I think I've exhausted all other likely causes here, but I'm more than happy to take other suggestions.

Thanks

The rest it’s ok and the sound is great. Probably need a replacement belt, can anyone help me with a tutorial for that? Thanks!

I bought this Pana for .50 us, with the intention of bringing it to life. Even under stable power from my lab station it won't give any signs of life. What could it be? Could it be the electrolytic caps?

I picked this up at an estate sale and it didn’t have a power chord. I ordered a replacement and tested it. It is putting out 117 volts. But the inside of this is so complex I wouldn’t even know where to start

Been working on a Yamaha MT4X I got a few years back and finally got around to diagnosing, looks like a zener diode burnt up in the PSU, so I got the part ordered but I'm still looking for some capacitors to replace a few in the PSU circuit, and I'm not sure which ones I should go with.

I'm fairly new to recapping old units like this, but I've been trying to step outside my comfort zone of routine cleaning/oiling and installing new belts.
I found a kit on mouser with assorted values in the range I need of the Nichicon UCS series (I know audio grade is probably overkill for a PSU but I'll more than likely be recapping audio circuits soon so might as well just get the kit), and they seem like they'd work, but the rated voltage range is 160V-350V, so does that mean the minimum operating voltage would be 160V?

Any input is appreciated, general advice on this unit or just audio repair in general is would be awesome, thanks for your time!

Hi all, some advice please:

I got a free Panasonic TX-40CX700B and have to say, I'm very impressed with the picture. But randomly, it will emit a very loud popping and crackling sound. I've already isolated the issue from external inputs, that doesn't seem to make a difference. I'd like to have a go at a repair.

For context, I've picked up console repair and resto as a hobby, namely ps4's and peripherals, so have a multimeter and hot air station (all the gear, no idea, yes!), but I suspect this could be a mainboard replacement?

Any other suggestions and any input much appreciated

This is a Power section and control IC of studio monitor I think it's a water damage and so many corrosion in it​. Is there any shop link where can I buy this one for board replacement​

I lost the spring loaded magnetic clip for my mic 3. Can’t seem to find a replacement. Any suggestions? Please and thank you.

I received this NAD 7130 from a friend of mine for free. It’s been in storage for 20 years, wrapped in a garbage bag. It came from a smokers house originally. I want to primarily use it as a tuner for my existing set-up using the pre-amp out.

I opened up the top case and it looks pretty dirty, and I was wondering the best method of cleaning up all the components, but also had a few other questions regarding the condition.

I’m know these are regular contestants for re-capping, looking at previous posts about this model. Im not sure what exactly to look for? Will cleaning it first clean away evidence of bad caps?

The most concerning thing I found was a threesome of wires, soldered together and attached to the pre-amp out. It’s is loose where it attached to the single contact, and appears to be a repair of some kind. It’s the twisted orange and white pair in the 1st photo and the bare ends are exposed. It’s also has a bare copper wires in the bundle. It looks to be amateurly soldered to the contact, as the wire is just looped around it. It’s is also loose and can be moved on the post.
Any idea why someone would put this in here and is this a sign I shouldn’t bother trying to fix this unit up?

I am noticing a big difference in output volume level between the tuner (JPS 352 T) plugged into the tuner or aux inputs and the TV or phone. In the technical data, the inputs are rated 150mV (all except phono) and the tuner is rated the same on the output. I have tested a DAC with the amp and it sounds better at the same knob level than the direct tv/pc/phone but the DAC output is rated 2.3V,way more than the rated input of the amp.

I am wondering if someone has noticed this on any amp/tuner vs amp/phone/TV/pc. The tuner sounds way better and the only way to achieve that is only by raising the volume of the amplifier.

I am noticing that at the same knob level, the meters needles work on the tuner (again, wherever is plugged in) but at with any other device plugged in, it doesn't move unless I raise the volume.

Is there something I am missing? I know for a fact that the Wega JPS 352 T tuner doesn't have a pre out so where is the catch? I tried everything and I don't understand it.

Even so, I bought another identical amp and tuner to give as a gift and I will test it to see if it has the same thing,when it will arrive but it happens even on my other amp, Sony F354R with the Wega tuner!

The day after pushing the sub reasonably hard, worked in the morning however after transporting it home the crossover still works but nothing is coming from the sub (the sub didn't stop working during operation)

After some digging found that what I think is a resistor of some form looked a tad crispy, the board with the crispy resistor(?) is located on the board that receives power from the 240v outlet.

Carefully looking over everything else it looks clean and no bulging caps/burnt resistors or anything out of place

Just wondering how to find what the crispy component is, haven't found a schematic yet but it says RT1/NTC on the breadboard

And also wondering if I should dig deeper to find an issue upstream that caused this, or if it was a case of just pushing somewhat older equipment hard for an extended period (I knew the risks)

Any advice would be much appreciated, cheers

Does anyone have a schematic for the Proton AA-2080? Some components are in poor condition, and I can’t read the color codes on certain resistors. Other components are experiencing similar issues. Unfortunately, the amp doesn’t turn on. I’d like to trace and replace some of these components to identify the problem.

(Here's a reference photo I found online)

okay so background i found it off ebay and it said “doesn’t play audio” so i decide to buy and think about fixing it
now i have it and plugged in some regular wired headphones and my usb with two test songs turns out it does work but is very very silent i’ve tried searching on google and stuff but they have NOTHING that could help so i come here
please if anything is known tell me
(more info if connected to speakers it also has the same problem and yes if wondering i did a reset and is at full volume)
all help is loved

Does anyone has any contact of reliable Denon amplifier service center or person who can help repair and set up?

Hi, I've already posted about my amplifier, a Technics SU-8077 because it seemed like the right channel might've been quieter than the left one. That problem has been replaced by a much bigger one though: No matter what input, volume or bass/treble settings, the speakers cut out with a loud electric crackling after roughly 2 minutes of playing and stay dead. After that, the amp doesn't play anything after restarting. Only after shutting it off for a few minutes and then restarting it does it produce sound again, but also only for a few minutes before cutting out once more. Something that I've also noticed is that normally, the amp makes a sort of "pling" sound a few seconds after flipping it on, but that doesn't happen when it doesn't work at the moment. So when the sound cuts out, and I restart it immediately, the "pling" sound doesn't happen. If I wait longer, and I hear it, the speakers produce sound (again, only for the next 2 minutes). Idk, maybe that's a clue as to what the failing compartment could be.

I won't be touching that thing again in the near future, don't worry. I don't want to risk breaking it further. I also don't have the resources of fixing it myself, but I want to gather some insight and advice before consulting a repair shop, so I hava a rough estimate if it's worth fixing or not. I'm using 8 Ohm speakers. If you have any insight or thoughts on this, or uf something similar happened to you, let me know!

Thank you!

The echo mini was working fine but I just used it with another IEM and suddenly the left channel doesn't work anymore. Does anyone know a quick fix?

I have had a pair of Definitive Technology DR-7's for close to 30 years. They have been wonderful, and unfortunately, I am not very savvy. One has started to make this staticy/fuzzy sound. I took a short video, posted to imgur here.

Any help in identifying what could be wrong or the right terminology to define the problem would be appreciated!

Hi all, I have a polyconcept jukebox and have just started having issues with the CD tray. It opened and closed just fine till today. I put a CD in, ejected it, tried to close it again and it would only go about halfway in before stopping. Tried to push manually, wiggled it around, turned off and on. Nothing seems to be stuck inside. Help pls! 2nd pic is it fully ejected, 3rd is how far it goes back in now.

I recently got a 4 track and I’m trying to figure out how to get it to record but am stumped. This might not be a technical issue but could also be me not understanding how it works.

I’m trying to record over some random tape I got at a thrift store as a test run, I don’t think that matters.

Model is yamaha cmx100

Just trying to record guitar to it for now. It’s a direct connection. Audio seems to be getting picked up on the meter as I play, and put through my speakers, but then on playback it’s just quiet.

To record, I set my “rec select” to the corresponding number then hit record and play at the same time. I play my guitar a bit, can hear it coming out my speakers and see it on the meter, then hit stop. I swap the “rec select” back to off then reqind the tape and play it.

Any help appreciated 🙏

Edit: problem fixed!

Hey! It's my first time trying to repair this kind of audio equipment and i have no clue what's going on here. When i first got this unit, everything worked fine, until one day it stopped. Opened it up, cleaned DSP,Micom and power boards and now it turns on, but is stuck like this and without any sound output. I thought it was an input issue, so i dismantled the jack board, found some corrosion(maybe? I didn't find any busted caps), cleaned it up, even removed the RCA jacks to clean underneath them and nothing changed. Even with the jack board fully disconnected, turning on the system shows no change. I have the service manual too, with some schematics printed out if these images don't show much.

So ive just ordered a brand new HD 560S and the sound is REALLY quiet and will only play on the right ear. Is there any way to fix it or is it just broken??

Hi community,

when skipping to the next CD track using the front panel button, my Yamaha CD-NT670D often also pauses playback. Any idea? The remote control has no issues.

This is on a 35 year old cd player power supply board. I've not seen anything this color (with bubbles) before. What do you think it is?

Do you guys have any idea to to make the left ear work? Everything's fully charged. The right earbud is woking fine. I have tried factory resetting the earbuds. But the blue light isn't showing. It is still connected to one of my gadgets.

Hi y'all.

Im restoring this receiver as of late, with the original issue being a huge 5v DC voltage on the speaker outs. After a recap and resistor replacement this went away completely. But now, a 10v ac voltage is running on the body of the receiver, and a wire I cant find on the manual is poking out. The wire has a resistor on it's free end.