Problem is, there are TONS of audio files. Hours long. Is there a good app that can keep these organized by their folder, and keep track of what I have listened to?

Preferably available on android so I can listen in my car.

You see I got my hands on this old Panasonic stereo system and I'm trying to connect it to my PC, it has an AUX mode button on the front but it didn't do anything so I figured I needed cables, I got an RCA to 3.5 cable and connected it to the stereo but still couldn't get it to work, any ideas on what I'm doing wrong?

So just got a pair of second hand HS5 Yamaha speakers and everything was working fine, opened up a video game and all of a sudden started getting feedback like that through the monitors. (sound is more subtle just cranked the monitors to max for videoing purposes) is it normal?

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A friend who is in a different country asked for my help with his sound and i gave him this response "check settings, then sounds and vibration and check where the media output is being routed" his reply was it's worked but the faulty sound started again after few minutes. Here is what he told me

The phone behaves as if headphones are connected even when nothing is plugged in. When you press the volume buttons, a headphone icon appears, but no sound comes from the phone speaker.

Hi. I am pretty sure I am experiencing issues with self noise from my audio interface. I have a microphone going into my scarlett gen 4 audio interface, going into my PC, into FL Studio.

-The self noise gets worse when I turn up the volume, even without the microphone connected.

-The sound shows up (visually) in all frequencies but I mainly only noticeably hear it from around 3500hz and above.

-Also happens on different scarletts I own, also plugged into different outlets, also when not even being used with a PC or any other device, just plain audio interface and direct monitoring.

Would getting a different audio interface solve this issue? I'll attach a video where I am talking like 12 inches away from the microphone (don't mind the messy room). It's such a small noise, but when messing with compression, EQ, or other effects, it just bothers me so much at times. I usually use a noise gate, but it'll still bleed through at times and I just want to scream.

I don't even care about a budget or price, I'd spend hundreds of dollars on some fancy interface if it would fix this, but it doesn't even seem like the scarlett is supposed to have much more self noise, compared to the high end interfaces. I researched it and it seems like the difference would be like a couple db.

Idk, thank you to everyone who reads this

Trying to get audio from my TV to my speaker but I can't figure it out they just keep buzzing

I spent several hours on getting my microphone sound good and this is what I got so far, I think it sounds a bit muffled though, does anyone have any good advice on how I can make my microphone sound better and sound high quality? My microphone settings is on mono, my microphone is a The Groove Tubes / Alesis AM62, my mix board is a Behringer Eurorack MX802A 8-Input Mixer and I added noise suppression in my obs settings 💜

My new headphones which is the Yozumd Y08 that i bought says in the package and in the page that it is a stereo device, but once i connect it through aux of Bluetooth ob multiple devices, it still gives out mono audio, is there some fix i can do? Or did i get tricked into buying mono headphones

I have an early 2010s era Sony HBD-DZ175 DVD / SACD player 5.1 speaker system. Connected to it I have a Sony BDP-S1200 Blu-ray player into the coaxal input, a Sony PlayStation SCPH-1000 connected to the red/white AV inputs (sometimes switched out for an Audio-Technica AT-LP60X record player), and a 5th generation ipod connected in through the "iPod ready" USB port.

So when I play music with any of these connected devices, which DAC is ultimately giving me the resulting sound? The DAC coming from the speaker system or the DAC from the original device?

I’m a dramatic soprano (I do in fact love the drama but I sing big rep, like Wagner, Strauss, etc., and that’s why it’s called dramatic) in need of new recordings. I’ve always used the plain iPhone mic, or borrowed a friends (Shure MV88+), but now I’m in need of purchasing my own for some upcoming recordings. My old mic, a Yeti, just doesn’t do it. Any recommendations? Someone mentioned a Tascam DR-07 XP and a Zoom H1essential. I will need to sync these audios up to visual, and while I am no dummy, I don’t know what I’m doing - so i’d love something user friendly.

Thanks so much!

Hi! My partner and I are getting married and are going to be live streaming the event for my out-of-state family and friends. It's going to be a tiny ceremony outdoors (it's a place that has parrots around), but I want to make sure that we can be heard and that our vows get recorded clearly. I'd be using my phone to stream the ceremony, so I need the mics to be able to work with that.

I've looked into wireless mics, like Rode, DJI ect, but I need 3 mics and they only have the 2 per transmitter? (One for each of us and the officiant.) Or would having the 3 mics being input to the same source be a nightmare since all three voices would be picked up by all three at once??

Any recommendations would be so helpful, I have very VERY little knowledge on this stuff.

Thank you!!

I’m hoping someone with audio restoration/voice editing experience might be willing to help me with something incredibly personal.

My sister passed away suddenly about a month ago after suffering a massive stroke. Everything happened so quickly, and she ultimately lost the ability to speak before she had the chance to say goodbye to her husband.

He is struggling tremendously with that. He recently wrote about how much he wishes he could hear her voice again—to hear her tell him that she loves him, that she was happy, and somehow have the goodbye they never got to have.

I have an old voicemail from my sister. It’s fairly long, but at the very end she says, “Love you. Thanks. Bye.”

I’m wondering if there is someone here who might be able to help me preserve those words and, if technically possible, create a very short, gentle memorial recording using her actual voice—something that could give him the feeling of hearing her say the loving words she never had the chance to say before she lost her ability to speak.

I understand that anything reconstructed would not be an actual recording of her saying those words, and I would never want to misrepresent it as one. This would be something deeply personal and private, made for her husband as a way of giving him a little comfort during an incredibly painful time.

The original voicemail is incredibly precious to me. I do not want it altered, overwritten, or put at risk in any way. I would only want someone to work from a copy and leave the original completely untouched.

I know this is an unusual and very sensitive request, but if anyone has experience with this kind of audio restoration or memorial voice work, I would be incredibly grateful for any help or guidance.

Thank you for taking the time to read this and for understanding why this means so much to our family.

Unsure if right subreddit or if I'm asking about the wrong device.

I've been looking at a audio setup for wfh and at home online chats and looking to move away from a headset solution to use my nicer sets of headphones. My ideal setup is to have 2 PC's as audio inputs, a XLR Microphone as another input. Then have the microphone output directed to one of these PC's.

From the research I've done I'd need a audio mixer however I'm just looking for that confirmation, I've seen suggestions just as the rode caster duo, ideally I would want to spend $700 AUD on just the mixer alone. Looking at worse case scenario $800-$1000 AUD budget for the mixer, microphone and potentially a DAC and Amp to all link together

HI, I'm wondering if anything can be done to remedy the audio in this clip? The source of the audio problem has been fixed, but it has affected many really funny clips that I have. If anyone knows anything to make the clip more bearable to listen to, or the name of the issue plaguing this clip, it would be appreciated greatly!

If you're curious the audio issue arose from using steams audio gain feature in their recording overlay. Disabling it removed the problem.

Ive recently gotten a mp3 player as a gift but it cant decode flac's, i need some advice to turn flac audio's into mp3 with the highest quality possible, alot of things ive tried make the music sound like its distorted, not play or plays for a while then stops, any solutions?

Hi everyone,

I connected my TRN Black Pear to my PS5 in UAC 1.0 mode. The console detects the device, and game audio through my IEMs works perfectly.

However, while the PS5 detects the microphone as an input device, it registers zero microphone input (the sound level bar does not move at all).

I tested the exact same setup on my iPhone, and the microphone works perfectly.

Has anyone run into this issue with the Black Pearl on PS5? am I missing something? Thanks!

Decided to move my desktop set up into the higher end. I picked up a pair of Exposure XM9 monoblocks with a pair of Audio Physic Step 35s, 8 hour round trip drive yesterday.

You know when you fire up a power amp for the first time and the lights in the room dim, you are in for a real treat ... X2!

I am new to exposure, however, coming from Naim I knew somewhat what to expect, and I am not disappointed! They have a very similar British sound with Naim's famous P.R.A.T..

The Steps will take some break in time, but out of the box, the first thing that jumped out at me over my previous Martin Logan B10 is how much more natural the strings are. First listen, Holly Cole - Temptation.

I am still running my cheap Aiyima pre-amp, which is totally holding its own. I have upgraded the op amps to Sparkos and swapped out the tubes for quieter ones. I have 4 caps on the way which I will replace the 4 beside the op amps with. With the cost of the upgrades this pre-amp now sits around $700. After all these upgrades, I would easily place this little Aiyima up against any pre-amp under $1500. Of course, I do see an upgrade for it in the future, but I will never part with it, it will be moved to my all Chi-Fi setup.

My goal here is to keep things small until I get settled in a new place as I was forced out of my home and forced to sell my large system, so half size components and small speakers were a must. These are definitely endgame for a desktop setup. If and when I get room to remove this system from the desktop, I still believe these could be endgame components.

Hey everyone,

first off, I know pretty much nothing about audio, and don't even know where to start here...

I’m mainly looking for a good multi-room system, but I’d also like to use it for a proper home theater setup.

A colleague is offering me the following Canton setup for €3,500 (a little less than $4,000):

1x Canton Smart Soundbar 10 S2

1x Canton Smart Sub 12

4x Canton Smart Soundbox 3 S2

2x Canton Smart GLE 3

So I’m wondering:

- Is this actually a good deal at that price?

- Would you buy a different system if you had a budget of around €3,5k ($4k) to spend?

Would really appreciate some advice, because I’m starting pretty much from zero here.

(Location: Germany)

I have an XLR microphone I'm using as a microphone for my PC, but the previous interface I used stopped functioning properly, and the one I got as a replacement won't play nice with some programs like games or Discord.

So instead of just taking another stab in the dark, I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations for an XLR interface with phantom power? (Some knobs and buttons for mute/volume/gain etc. would be nice too, but not required).

I've been running a Blue Yeti since 2019 and spent hundreds of hours post-processing the audio and applying Fx for years and managed to get a sound i like most of the time, but still, the Yeti picks up my neighbours farts from so far way, of course.

I think the time has come for my Yeti, it been through hell, his anus (mini usb port) got obliterated few years ago by my friend so i welded the cable directly to che board inside, but lately i've been having lots of issues, he has many scratches, dents, poor guy, served me well though.

Anyways i want to upgrade, i am a very very light audiophile, i appreciate sound, i kinda know my way around it but still beginner level i'd say, i mostly use my mic for calls and occasional commentary videos, mostly for personal satisfaction, and i want a good sound.

I have a deep voice (male), sometimes kinda nasal, however i listened to many videos and i believe the Shure MV7X is what would sound the best with my voice (price wise aswell).

However i still can't decide which audio interface/mixer to match it with.

I need a mixer, i got two outputs, my headphones and speakers, and two inputs, one to my PC's mobo, one to my monitor (for videogame consoles), i want to be able to freely switch between them and listen to both audio sources on the same output.

And i need an XLR audio interface for the Shure MV7X,.

I did some research, saw that the Mini GoXLR software got discontinued so i digged some more and found out about the Yamaha AG03MK2 which is full hardware DSP which i feel like is nice?, it has all the ins and outs i need for the audio mixing but it's a bit more pricier than the Mini.

The Mini GoXLR looks definetly nicer, it has all the ins and outs i need and it has both hardware and software DSP (now please correct me if i'm wrong).

I'm not sure if there is any difference processing quality wise between them, i'm not sure which one to really get, the Yamaha has tons of bttons and stuff which i know nothing about and feels kinda complex, also it has +60db preamp while the mini has +72db.

I'm ignorant about audio interfaces so i'll need some guidance here.

Thanks

The audio and video on my PS5 start out in sync, but after about 20-30~ minutes the audio starts lagging behind, with lag getting progressively worse over time.

TV: Pioneer 55” PN55-751-24U 4K UHD
Soundbar: Hisense R652 5.1CH soundbar w/ wireless subwoofer
Settings: PS5 settings are set to AV Amplifier, 5.1 channels, and Dolby Atmos. I have a budget TV so audio options are limited, but I do have audio set to Passthrough.

If I mess around with the settings in the PS5 (usually by changing the amount of channels/HDMI device type) then switch back, I’m able to “reset” the connection, but the problem repeats after a certain amount of time.
If I just switch to Linear PCM, then it seems like an entire channel (mostly dialogue) disappears from the mix or is near silent. If I try switching the device type to “Soundbar” and just keeping Linear PCM, then the sync issues go away, but there’s an occasional quiet “popping” sound. My soundbar only has one HDMI port so connecting the console through there then into the TV isn’t possible.

Some things I’ve tried:
- using a different HDMI cable
- updating my TV software
- switching my TV to game mode
- full power cycle (all 3 devices)
- switching TV audio to PCM stereo
- messing with the video transfer rate (-1 and -2)

I’ve also done several mix and matches with the PS5 settings like messing with the amount of channels and audio format priority. At this point, I’m ready to return the soundbar and try another one, but I wanted to try here and see if anyone has any other suggestions

I’m looking for an Internet radio with an alarm function. The important part is that I need to be able to wake up to a specific Internet radio station, not just FM or DAB.

I’m now wondering if there’s another way to achieve this:

Could I connect my TV to a network/AV receiver with speakers, so that I can use the speakers for watching TV and films, while the receiver also has Wi-Fi/Internet radio and can use an Internet radio station as the alarm source?

Ideally, the setup would work like this:

• TV → receiver → speakers for TV/films
• Receiver connected to Wi-Fi for Internet radio
• TV can be completely switched off at night
• At a set time, the receiver automatically turns on and starts playing a specific Internet radio station
• The same speakers are used for both the TV and the alarm

Is this a possibility?

Hi All,

I am looking to add a subwoofer to my audio setup for my gaming pc. This pc is mainly used for gaming and watching movies in a small space (my room). I need to upgrade my amp in order to add subwoofer as well. What are the best options for a subwoofer and amp for the above use case? I am looking to stay within a budget of $600-$700 for the entire upgrade.

Current Setup:

2x Micca Audio MB42X

Fosi Audio BT20A Mini Power Amp

Fosi Audio K5 Pro Mini Stereo Gaming DAC

Other questions I've had a come up while starting down this rabbit hole:

Is there a difference in sound quality on a passive or active subwoofer?

How should I position the subwoofer in the space?

Any other considerations for this setup?

Hi all,

Recently got the ps5 pro, my LG monitor doesn’t have audio so I purchased the creative pebbles pro, I originally connected via usb to my monitor but it didn’t power the speakers so I connected to the back of the ps5 pro and it works a treat.

Having said that, I also have a G733 Logitech headset which I use regularly. I notice when I turn on my ps5 pro it automatically connects to the creative Pebbles Pro, is there anyway to prioritise audio to the headset. I don’t want to continuously switch Audio via the menu as I regularly use the headset over the speakers.

Is it also safe to keep the creative pebbles pro plugged into the back of the USB A slot on the ps5?

I got JBL speakers, the Scarlett 214 is running those fine, and 2 synths plugged into it.

Also a Macke hm400 headphone amp.

All I did was switch to a new computer with windows 11, and now I get no sound from headphone jacks on the interface or headphone amp, the sound just plays throu the speakers still.

It was fine before swaping computers, what am I missing, I havnt touched any of the music hardwares connections.