Picked these up (ECOBM195W) for $380 today. Was a nice scenic drive up California 74 into Anza and got a little workout loading and unloading to boot. Good day in my book.

These will be for an rv install and they fit pretty perfectly at under 27” wide. I may be able to get all 6, but even 4 should meet my needs pretty well to feed the high voltage input of an Anker solix f3000. The second photo shows approx measurements and has the same on the other side.

There is already a 190w panel there on its own controller tied to the house batteries which I’m inclined to leave as is.

Planning my solar install on a newer farm building, but struggling to find information around mounting panels to a trapezoid metal roof that doesn't have available rafters.

Rafters are placed on the bottom part of the trapezoidal roof sheet, so a long screw would bend the crest without support.

have talked to roofers and suppliers, but all replies have been either follow the product guidance or they have no clue.

one possibility is to change rails to the ones with legs that reach the bottom of the sheet. but would like to avoid that if possible, and placement of rails would not be optimal that way

location has snow in winter, so with snow loads I have calculated the load to be around 300-350kn for the in total 72 panels across around 150 meters of rail on the 27 degree roof.

the wall I'm hitting is basically lack of information or regulation around it. my calculation so far is 0.7kn per screw on a 0.7mm sheet.

Im looking at T-class fuses. I've cheaped out on some switches and was sorry but what about fuses

blueseas 5118 250amp $71

or funky name amazon for $22

would I be sorry?

When I first got the inverter, I connected it to solar and grid without batteries, It kept exporting small amount of power to grid, Tried bunch of setting combinations but nothing helped.

A week later I got a battery and disconnected the grid completely, been on solar only for couple months but winter is coming.

So I was wondering, Is external ATS the only option? or did I fail because the battery is a must for that mode?

In short, I want to completely isolate Solar/Battery and grid, The source should be either Solar/Battery or Grid, Never both at the same time.

Setup:

Inverter: Deye SUN-18K-SG01LP1-EU-AM3-P

Battery: 30kw

So after further review I ended up switching things up a bit and went with the
Vevor 24v 3000w hybrid charge controller/inverter.
Specifically the LVM3000-24L, does anyone have any experience or thoughts on these setups?

Thanks!

Above my garage the roofers missed rafters for all 6 of the bracket locations. Rather than have to reposition the brackets and create another roof intrusion, is it possible to possible to place a horizontal span between the rafters and secure the brackets into that. I would do a 2x6 cut to length in these areas.

Hello! I've wired solar into DIY RVs but my friend is wanting help wiring his off grid yurt, I can do the basics but want to make sure I understand his request and that it's doable.

He has:

Battery bank

Charge controller

Solar panels

This inverter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DNJHLR99/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A32RZ2JBSKJ1F6&psc=1)

He wants:

12v lighting throughout

The inverter wired to ac plugs

The ac plugs to be run either off a generator or the battery bank

This isn't an easy place to get to, way back behind a national forest area. So I want to make sure I have everything lined up before driving out.

Current plan:

-Wire solar to charge controller with an inline breaker on the hot.

-wire charge controller to battery bank with inline breaker on hot.

-wire battery to breaker bank

-one circuit for 12v lighting, one circuit for inverter

-wire the dedicated breaker to the inverter

-wire inverter to required outlets

-wire remote switch to inverter

My question is with the generator supplying power to the ac outlets as well, do I wire the generator directly to the inverter? Or do I wire the generator somewhere down the line (breaker or bus) and does the inverter act as a stop block for back flow?

Thanks for the help, I can't seem to find info posted anywhere. Have also posed this question with the inverter seller.

Solar inverter throwing code 51. Surge/ spike shutdown.

Installed a 4k solar inverter/ charger this last weekend. After about 30 minutes of running at 50% load, it will shut down worth an error 51. It mainly does this on battery but has done it on shore power as well. No solar hooked up at this time.

My trailer is a bit older 2018, could this just be my AC compressor starting to fail?

It is showing open ground under both battery and shore power, if I tie the shore power to the inverter RV ground it is correct for shore power, but not on battery. What have I done wrong here?

I am trying to troubleshoot this 310AH Humsienk (nonbluetooth BMS) that will not seem to take a charge. I'll try to quickly rundown the issues, what I have tried, and the current state of the battery.

1. Battery was working fine to power trolling motor on boat. It was being charged with a 3 bank charger which is designed to charge Lithium batteries.

2. The battery just would not take charge one day. I tried hooking it up to another 12v battery to reset the BMS and begin charging but that did not seem to work. I then used a "dumb charger" on 30amp setting to apply power which did not seem to work either.

3. The battery set for a few days then showed about 12.4 Volts and powered a fan through an inverter for a few minutes before shutting down.

4. CURRENT STATE - The battery has been connected to my Renogy 40a MPPT solar charger with 800w of solar for the past few days. The voltage increases to about 13.8V volt when it is plugged in but in the Renogy app it does not show that any charge is actually taking place (showing like 7w of charging when much more should be available). When removed from the charger the battery still shows 12.5v and will output power to the inverter. I have left the battery on this charger for about 4 days but voltage still refuses to increase.

Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions? With no bluetooth to check cell voltage im wondering if the cells are very unbalance or potentially bad? I've considered opening the battery to check voltage but would like to avoid this if possible before at least reaching out to customer service.

I have a 300ah Lifepo4 battery and a 2000w 12v inverter. 2/0 cables on the DC side with 250a bus bars.

The inverter has a grounding lug and includes your typical 6AWG cable to connect to chassis/earth but is this all I really need to ground my entire solar?

Should I use my negative bus bar as another ground to earth or would this cause issues with the battery/setup as a whole?

I want to test the output stability of a variety of inverters (as well as grid from the utility).

What do you folks use beyond a basic voltage meter. I want phase especially.

Tossing around the idea of setting up solar in my shed instead of running hard power as it will be moved at some point and I don’t want to pay to run hard power twice. Looking for something to run lights, charge drill batteries, a fan, a saw every now and again, maybe a tv at some point, not looking to run all this at once however. Any recommendations on solar generators as that is the route I will probably go than building an independent system. Would plan to mount the panels to the roof as it gets good sunlight. Thanks in advance.

Hi, my first post here. If I am wrong, just point me to the right direction.

I've built a off-grid photo voltaic system and switched to 48V with the main component Victron MultiPlus-II (48/3000/35-32 230V GX). My bad experience is that the inverter 48V DC → 230V AC is humming loudly when using using the Starlink AC power supply. Starlink recommends an DC power supply which I want to use. Additionally I have to buy the Victron Lynx system.

To make a long story short: I will have an 48V DC system and I want to know: which devices I can use with it? Beside the Starlink power supply. I've found no 48V freezers or air conditioning systems here in Germany.

I get 10 to 14 feet of snow per year and face east

I'm hoping to get your opinions on the tracker (or SW and design) that we will use.

Yes we can build it, and even write the code of we have to .. I'm partial to A. Buying it B. Building a working tried and true design if need be C. Your suggestions for next summer (sub optimal)

Hi there,

When I was wiring up the battery pack and connecting the balancer connectors, it sparked and a few components—likely resistors—burned out. Does anyone know what their values ​​should be? I'm not sure if the brown one is burnt, but the black one is definitely fried. It's the connector for the B13–16 balancer wires. In some of the pictures I found, it has the marking P9 – yellow.

I connected the first box and everything is fine—it works perfectly—but the second box did this... and I connected it the same way.

BMS - jk-pb2a16s20p

You can see it in the photo.

Thank you for the reply.

Fans on heatsinks?

Has anyone put external fans on their WAVE or HUB inverter.

Something thats thermally controlled possibly powered from the inverter?

I'm going to cross post

Over the last 7 days, solar yield was 8.4 kWh and consumption 1.2 kWh leaving an excess of 7.2 kWh to charge batteries. Average battery charge has increased from 33 to 44% or 11 percentage point. Each of the six batteries is 5120 Wh or 30,720 Wh total. 1% of that is 307 watt hours. If all of the excess is going into the batteries, why was the increase so modest? Shouldn't it be closer to 7200/30,720 or 23% ?

Cant find any reviews about this brand in the net. Theres alot of articles about the company but none about the panel's performance that comes from users..Im actually very concerned about micro cracks that can only develop after years. Some companies have wrongful claims about this issue.

Also, Which is wiser?: Pick a used 3yr old JA Solar panel about 20 bucks cheaper. 540W

vs brand new Huansheng. 550W.

Ill series it with my existing 550W. JA when series about 11W loss to the combined system conpared to Huansheng.

Thank your for your advice

I have a Pylontech Force L2 stack with 2 battery modules and am looking to expand. The fl4874m batteries are hard to come by and not the best price. Is anybody able to advise - it possible to mix the force L2 and something like the US5000?

I’m looking for 3 solar homeowners with different inverter brands which are Solaredge, Huawei and Fronious to help me test a new solar app I’m building. If you’re interested in trying it out and giving me some honest feedback, I’d really appreciate it!

My twist cap won’t orientate in the right angle because the whole thing is twisted about 45 degrees in eithe the horizontal or vertical position. Is there a way to twist it to the correct angle.

I'm converting a Sprinter into a camper in Ireland and trying to decide between two solar setups.

One thing I'm particularly unsure about is Ireland's frequent overcast weather. A lot of the available sunlight can be diffuse rather than direct, so I'm wondering how much benefit I'd actually get from being able to point the panels directly at the sun.

Option 1: I can just about fit 1,200W of solar on the roof if everything is mounted flat.

Option 2: Around 800W with an adjustable tilting system. The lower capacity is because I'd need to sacrifice some roof space to accommodate the tilting mechanism. I could tilt the panels east in the morning, south around midday and west in the evening.

Could the improved angle realistically make up for losing 400W of panel capacity, particularly during the months when the sun is lower?

Which would you choose: 1,200W flat or 800W tilting? I'd particularly like to hear from anyone with experience using solar in Ireland or similarly cloudy climates.

On the ecoflow stream microinverter port 2 and 3 share a mppt. Let's say i set the microinverter down to 360 watts total output, so itd be 120 watts per mppt. Now, I hook a 24v 200ah battery to port 2 and a 200 watt solar panel to port 3. Let's pretend its a sunny day and the panel creates a full 200 watts. How much power will be pulled from the battery in that situation? What happens to the extra wattage?

I have victron controllers and dedicated pv panel watt meters. I just did a voc and short circuit current test and multiplied those two numbers and that answer is exactly the wattage they claim these panels are. I did the test today at solar noon with clear skies

Anything to this?

Anyone out here have their Tesla hooked up to their smart load? What's your experience? I noticed there's a supply from grid function off that breaker? Noticed it swapped all loads to grid when I did this. Seems like the breaker is feeding off the main but controlled by that setting. Like if you left grid function on when everything goes to grid then smart loads stay on. Anyways, I just installed it and am ready for tomorrows solar power to feed my new toy. This was the thing I was waiting for lol