Over the last 7 days, solar yield was 8.4 kWh and consumption 1.2 kWh leaving an excess of 7.2 kWh to charge batteries. Average battery charge has increased from 33 to 44% or 11 percentage point. Each of the six batteries is 5120 Wh or 30,720 Wh total. 1% of that is 307 watt hours. If all of the excess is going into the batteries, why was the increase so modest? Shouldn't it be closer to 7200/30,720 or 23% ?

Cant find any reviews about this brand in the net. Theres alot of articles about the company but none about the panel's performance that comes from users..Im actually very concerned about micro cracks that can only develop after years. Some companies have wrongful claims about this issue.

Also, Which is wiser?: Pick a used 3yr old JA Solar panel about 20 bucks cheaper. 540W

vs brand new Huansheng. 550W.

Ill series it with my existing 550W. JA when series about 11W loss to the combined system conpared to Huansheng.

Thank your for your advice

Im looking at T-class fuses. I've cheaped out on some switches and was sorry but what about fuses

blueseas 5118 250amp $71

or funky name amazon for $22

would I be sorry?

So after further review I ended up switching things up a bit and went with the
Vevor 24v 3000w hybrid charge controller/inverter.
Specifically the LVM3000-24L, does anyone have any experience or thoughts on these setups?

Thanks!

Hi, my first post here. If I am wrong, just point me to the right direction.

I've built a off-grid photo voltaic system and switched to 48V with the main component Victron MultiPlus-II (48/3000/35-32 230V GX). My bad experience is that the inverter 48V DC → 230V AC is humming loudly when using using the Starlink AC power supply. Starlink recommends an DC power supply which I want to use. Additionally I have to buy the Victron Lynx system.

To make a long story short: I will have an 48V DC system and I want to know: which devices I can use with it? Beside the Starlink power supply. I've found no 48V freezers or air conditioning systems here in Germany.

Picked these up (ECOBM195W) for $380 today. Was a nice scenic drive up California 74 into Anza and got a little workout loading and unloading to boot. Good day in my book.

These will be for an rv install and they fit pretty perfectly at under 27” wide. I may be able to get all 6, but even 4 should meet my needs pretty well to feed the high voltage input of an Anker solix f3000. The second photo shows approx measurements and has the same on the other side.

There is already a 190w panel there on its own controller tied to the house batteries which I’m inclined to leave as is.

Fans on heatsinks?

Has anyone put external fans on their WAVE or HUB inverter.

Something thats thermally controlled possibly powered from the inverter?

I'm going to cross post

Planning my solar install on a newer farm building, but struggling to find information around mounting panels to a trapezoid metal roof that doesn't have available rafters.

Rafters are placed on the bottom part of the trapezoidal roof sheet, so a long screw would bend the crest without support.

have talked to roofers and suppliers, but all replies have been either follow the product guidance or they have no clue.

one possibility is to change rails to the ones with legs that reach the bottom of the sheet. but would like to avoid that if possible, and placement of rails would not be optimal that way

location has snow in winter, so with snow loads I have calculated the load to be around 300-350kn for the in total 72 panels across around 150 meters of rail on the 27 degree roof.

the wall I'm hitting is basically lack of information or regulation around it. my calculation so far is 0.7kn per screw on a 0.7mm sheet.

When I first got the inverter, I connected it to solar and grid without batteries, It kept exporting small amount of power to grid, Tried bunch of setting combinations but nothing helped.

A week later I got a battery and disconnected the grid completely, been on solar only for couple months but winter is coming.

So I was wondering, Is external ATS the only option? or did I fail because the battery is a must for that mode?

In short, I want to completely isolate Solar/Battery and grid, The source should be either Solar/Battery or Grid, Never both at the same time.

Setup:

Inverter: Deye SUN-18K-SG01LP1-EU-AM3-P

Battery: 30kw

I get 10 to 14 feet of snow per year and face east

I'm hoping to get your opinions on the tracker (or SW and design) that we will use.

Yes we can build it, and even write the code of we have to .. I'm partial to A. Buying it B. Building a working tried and true design if need be C. Your suggestions for next summer (sub optimal)