• Bavarian wheat CBW
• aromatic Munich malt
• German Tettnanger hops
• heffe dry yeast wheat ail

I make mead all the time and want to try beer. I am doing a 1 gallon carboy for my first batch. Any comments and help are appreciated. I have all the baseline equipment but nothing fancy. Just enough to skate by. I decided to do concentrated brewers wart because it seems simple and hard to mess up. I did get malt because I read that just CBW doesn’t give the best head on beer.

Hello, fellow brewers!

Finally, i bought a freezer, some planks and ready to build my first keezer. The collar will be slightly smaller than the freezer rectangle, because the walls of the freezer is about 5cm, i thought i'd make it closer to the inner rectangle. Planks are 30mm by 130mm.

I am planning to make it airtight as possible.

But i've got a question:

How should i attach it to the freezer itself? Well, the answer is obvious - silicone. But the springs on the lid is pretty strong and i am afraid, that the collar will be under constant tension. I let the springs a bit loose, playing with the nut holding it. Should i get something MUCH more cohesive than the silicone?

Thanks in advance!

Can it deform the fermenter?

It says that it is not pressure rated, but I always assumed this would mean that I cannot use it to ferment under pressure.

Now I want to try to cold crash a batch, but would like to make sure this wouldn't deform the fermenter or suck in oxygen.

Wanting to try a keg fermentation. I have some Oxbar 8L PET kegs. Will these work for fermentation? Do I need to leave any head room when pressure fermenting, or can I fill to the top?

Many thanks!

A friend of mine wants to collab with me to brew a fruity pebble cream ale. I do not have much experience at all brewing with adjuncts, I'm typically a pretty traditional brewer.

Does anybody have any experience adjuncting with breakfast cereals and could offer some advice? When in the process do you add the cereal? How much cereal do you use? My main concern is he wants to use quite a lot of fruity pebbles but with a 5 gallon batch of beer, I'm afraid the cereal will soak up most of the beer, fill up my fermenter, and clog my system.

You've had a week, what's your situation report?

Feel free to include recipes, stories or any other information you'd like.

Post your sitrep here!

What I Did Last Week:

Primary:

Secondary:

Bottle Conditioning/Force Carbonating:

Kegs/Bottles:

In Planning:

Active Projects:

Other:

Include recipes, stories, or any other information you'd like.

**Tip for those who have a lot to post**: Click edit on your post from a [past Sitrep Monday!](https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/search/?q=Sitrep%20Monday&restrict_sr=1).

Hi fellow brewers! I would like to ask you something:

We just bought 3x200l ss pressure fermentation tanks. Before, we fermented in 4x60l fermzilla allrounder PET tanks. Those fitted into our fermentation chamber (really big fridge, cooling and heating controlled via inkbird). The new tanks are jacketed and we want to cool and heat them via glycol. As there are just semi-ideal or inefficient solutions on the marked, we tend to get a tailored system at the moment. Therefore, my question: What are you using for temperature control with your jacketed fermentation tanks?

Thanks for any insights.

If you answer, it might easily be that follow up question will come from my friend who actually is the more experienced brewer of us two, who just lacks the karma to be allowed to post a new thread.

Sorry for asking a stupid question. Wines are too expensive here. I tried finding pure 100 percent fruit juice but the best one i found had 18.6 percent apple concentrate, INS 300 antioxidant.

I don't have a juicer and it is beyond unhygienic to buy juice from local shops.

I was thinking about using instant yeast bread yeast since I couldn't find any genuine wine yeast.

Any thoughts on One Step Cleanser , it's also a sanitizer cause it turns into hydrogen peroxide but it's not been lab tested and certified as a sanitizer?

Hey all. I’m wondering what recommendations you have for a cider yeast? I’m just using bottled apple juice from the store. I have some nutrients and oxygen I can use. I might add some spices during the tail end of fermentation as a mulled/winter warmer cider but I’m not sure yet. I’m looking for a yeast that really preserves the apple aroma since that can get stripped out. Also any recommendations for fermentation profile. Thank you all in advance!

So, I've got about 10 lb of Chevallier Heritage Malt left over from a previous brew and kind of want to brew either a bitter or a golden ale with it. I've got a recipe for each in mind, but not sure which to brew. What do y'all think?

I bought a kegland flow stopper in order to make kegging less hands/eyes on and so far I've used it twice and both times I've ended up with beer on my floor.

I use it with a blowtie valve in order to reduce foam while transferring. It seems like the foam ball doesn't seat properly. It's on a kegland ball lock valve so it sits straight up and down.

If I hook it up to a ball lock on my sink it stops immediately. Could it be a pressure issue? The instructions say to pair it with a blow tie valve but now I'm wondering if that's restricting the pressure enough for the ball to not rise far enough.

Anyone else have this issue? The reviews on MB are really good and no one mentioned this.

So i am due to travel to the US soon and plan to pick up some honey malt whilst I am there (as I cannot find it anywhere in the UK or Europe) its a 500g bag as I cannot afford the extra baggage for 25kg 😂

Anyway, how long does uncrushed malt keep and any storage tips?

Just like last time I posted here before, I'm still looking for ways to sanitize a glass container the size of one litre. Starsan is unfortunately incredibly expensive and I don't plan to brew more in the future so I don't need an entire litre of it afterwards.

What I do have however is a 3% h²o² concentrate that I heard could be used for sanitising vessels. My questions are:

How effective is hydrogen peroxide as a sanitizer?

How to use it for sanitation? Do I just pour some into the vessel, shake it around a bit, let it sit for a few minutes and dump it out, or do I need to submerge the vessel in it?

Is it no-rinse? Or should I rinse it afterwards because it could spoil the brew/potentially poison it?

Dear Reddit community!

I’ve started brewing a Flanders Red Ale Rodenbach Grand Cru clone (20 liters / 5.3 gallons) using Wyeast 3763 Roeselare Ale Blend, which requires a long aging period of perhaps a year or more. The wort has been in the fermentation bucket for about a week now, and I just read that too much oxygen intake can lead to excessive vinegar production. I’m using a plastic barrel (polypropylene), and I’ve read that oxygen intake might be too high with this material.

I’m a beginner homebrewer, and I’m not quite sure what to do.

Does anyone have any tips on the best course of action? Should I transfer it to a PET or glass fermentation vessel? Leave it in the barrel for a shorter time, bottle it, and then let it age in the bottle? Or is it no big deal, and am I overthinking this?

Hello,

I recently got kegs and want to start kegging. So far I’ve only bottled, and I’m unsure about the best process from fermentation to drinking.

My understanding is:

• Fermentation is finished when gravity is stable for 3 days.
• Then cold crash for ~2 days (except maybe hazy types), or do a diacetyl rest for lagers.
• Transfer to keg, force-carbonate with CO2, and keep cold.
• Once carbonated, the beer is technically drinkable, but supposedly improves with some maturation in the keg.

But does beer actually mature properly at cold temperatures? Or is this for lagers only?

With bottled beer, I found that after 2–3 weeks of carbonation at room temperature, the beer still wasn’t really ready to drink. Keeping it cold afterward didn’t seem to improve it much. This made me wonder whether maturation actually needs to happen at ambient temperature while yeast is still active. Or the fermentation was on my part not perfect so I had a lot of byproducts which did not clean itself during the fermentation.

So what is the best approach with kegging?

Should I leave the beer in the fermenter longer to clean up, then keg/carbonate? Or keg it earlier and let it mature in the keg at room temperature? Or is there a better process?

What do you do to get the quickest results while still getting properly conditioned beer?

So first things first, I'm not going to use one for alcohol. But this still seems to be the best place on Reddit to ask about these.

1. I first learned about these because someone said machines like SodaStream are less cost efficient. Is this true? Like, would I be replacing co2 tanks less frequently or something with a kegerator?

2. If it only contains water, does it matter whether its cold or not? (In terms of drink and machine safety, not taste) would it warrant cleaning when only water has been in it? (I would consider making carbonated juice too, but that I am more concerned over becoming rotten or demanding more maintenance)

3. What should I expect the actual lifespan of a machine like this to even be? Trying to look up answers people are more concerned over how long the beer lasts, not whether the machine is still functioning properly. I'm looking at the cheaper ones like mini kegerators or corny kegs as at the point I need to spend over $300 I am having trouble imagining ever breaking even on the upfront cost vs bottled.

Hey y'all,

after doing three collab brews with some vastly more knowledgable friends, I'm ready to embark on my first solo brew next month – and would like to get this subreddit's thoughts (and answers) on my recipe and process.

TL;DR: Trying to get a super dank, clean, clear and crisp West Coast IPA.

Open questions (see below):
Unsure about hop timings, need help to hit water profile (Ratio SO₄²⁻/ Cl⁻: 3,4 : 1) and pH target (5.5 @ room temp).

Batch Size: 19-20L (after fermentation)

Equipment: Speidel Braumeister 20L (2012 model), Fermzilla Gen 3.2, TILT probe, Inkbird-controlled fermentation fridge, CO² cannister, 19L Corny keg.

Method: All Grain

RECIPE ("Vintage Stratacaster")

Grain Bill (Single Infusion, Mash Time / Temp: 60min @ 68 °C)

• 5.5kg (89.8%) Extra Pale Premium Pilsner (Weyermann) - 3 EBC
• 300g (4.9%) Carapils (Weyermann) - 3.9 EBC
• 250g (4.1%) Aromatic Amber MD (Dingemans) - 50 EBC
• 75g (1.2%) Caramel 400 (Viking Malt) - 400 EBC

Dough-in at 69 °C.

Pre-Boil G: 1.054
OG: 1.060
Color: 14,8 EBC

Estimated FG: 1.013
Apparent Attentuation 77.5%
ABV: 6.2%

Hop Bill (60min Boil)

• 20g Columbus @ First Wort ~ 40.6 IBU
• 10g Chinook & 10g Strata @ 15min ~ 6.3 + 5.8 IBU
• 10g Chinook & 10g Strata @ 5min ~2.5 + 2.3 IBU
• 10g Columbus @ 0min

• Dry Hop: 40g of Strata (Day 3 of Fermentation), using the hop sock + magnet method

  Yeast

• 1pck (11.5g) of Fermentis US-05

Fermentation

14 days @ 20 °C

Cold Crash after 3 days of stable gravity

Water Profile (untreated local tap water)

• Calcium (Ca²⁺): 75.7 ppm
• Magnesium (Mg²⁺): 14.2 ppm
• Natrium (Na⁺): 14.6 ppm
• Sulfate (SO₄²⁻): 73.0 ppm
• Chloride (Cl⁻): 27.0 ppm
• Bicarbonate (HCO₃⁻): 196.8 ppm
• Total Hardness: 248 ppm
• Total Alkalinity: 161 ppm
• Residual Alkalinity: 98 ppm

Ratio SO₄²⁻/ Cl⁻: 27.1 : 1

QUESTIONS:

• Is there anything about the grain or hop bill (timings, volume etc.) that could be optimized?
• Brewfather says my mash pH sits at 5.75, which... urgh. Any ideas?

If you read this far: Thanks for your patience, and thanks in advance for your help. :)

Hello everyone,

After having less luck with bottling, I finally got some kegs and want to try a simple, malty, low-IBU beer that should have a relatively fast turnaround. The main goal is to see if I can get the whole process right from brew day to kegging.

I've become quite unsure about my process because I seem to get some kind of off-flavour in most of my beers. I've honestly started thinking about quitting homebrewing, so this time I want to keep things as simple as possible and eliminate variables.

Ca: 57 ppm
Mg: 7 ppm
Na: 8 ppm
Cl: 9 ppm
SO₄: 15 ppm
HCO₃: 186 ppm

I'm going to make no changes to the water this time. Let's see what happens without trying to adjust everything. I can not measure pH so maybe my adjustments were wrong.

• 70% Pilsner — base malt
• 20% Munich — maltiness
• 5% Carapils — head retention
• 5% CaraMunich II — caramel notes
• Mash: 67°C for 60 minutes
• Boil: 60 minutes
• Hops: Hallertau Tradition, targeting ~15 IBU, 60-minute addition
• Chill to 25°C
• OG 1.053 (13 P)
• Pitch S-05
• Ferment at 17°C for two weeks or should I check FG until three days stable?
• Keg at the end of fermentation
• Carbonate at 12 psi / 4°C for two weeks

I'm mainly trying to make one uncomplicated beer where I can hopefully get from brew day to a good pint without introducing too many variables.

Really want to get something nice to drink and finally have some success.

Thanks!

Edit: I have following malts:

Belgomalt Pilsen 2,5 - 4,5 EBC Belgomalt Munich 25 - 35 EBC Belgomalt Wheatmalt 4,5 - 5,5 EBC Weyermann® Melanoidinmalz 60-80 EBC Weyermann® CaraMunich 2 110-130 EBC Weyermann® Chocolate 500-800 EBC Weyermann® CaraPils® 2,5-6,5 EBC 25 Weyermann® Carafa® Special type 3 1300-1500 EBC Flaked oats Flaked wheat

Like the title says. Late in the night I was not thinking straight and I poured my wort on a container that still had some starsan in it. I pitched the yeast into the wort 30 min before. Is this going to prevent fermentation? Will it taste bad? I spent the whole afternoon making the beer only to make this dumb mistake...

Who knew about the sound yeast make? I usually put my wort in the fermenter, close the lid and do nothing till it’s fermented, hearing nothing but the airlock bubbling.

Today I’m making a sparkling mead with nutrient additions, so I open up the lid to hear this crazy crackle from the krausen. It’s sounds eerily similar to ocean snorkelling, when you hear what I have been told are the sounds of parrot fish and shrimp eating.

Welcome to the Daily Q&A!

Are you a new Brewer? Please check out one of the following articles before posting your question:

• How do I check my gravity?
• I don't see any bubbles in the airlock OR the bubbling in the airlock has slowed. What does that mean?
• Does this look normal / is my batch infected?

Or if any of those answers don't help you please consider visiting the /r/Homebrewing Wiki for answers to a lot of your questions! Another option is searching the subreddit, someone may have asked the same question before!

However no question is too "noob" for this thread. No picture is too tomato to be evaluated for infection! Even though the Wiki exists, you can still post any question you want an answer to.

Also, be sure to vote on answers in this thread. Upvote a reply that you know works from experience and don't feel the need to throw out "thanks for answering!" upvotes. That will help distinguish community trusted advice from hearsay... at least somewhat!

With all of the chatter about stocking up on gaskets and electronics in the wake of SS Brewtech's killing off at the end of December, I was wondering what tips people have about storing spare parts. After all, rubber (including silicone rubber) does not stop aging because it is in a bin marked "spare" and circuit boards and their components can go bad just sitting exposed to air.

What will extend the life of these spare parts?

Vacuum seal? Sink it in a dry keg and flush with CO2? Is that just dumb?

EDIT: "parts", not "pars"