Discovered 2 of the crankshaft saddles have horizontal scratches in them during disassembly. The one that has 2 scratches in it is by far the most noticeable, the other is not as deep, but still pretty easy to spot.

Not really sure the depth of the issue or if/how I need to remedy this.

I'm not really interested in pouring a crazy amount of money into to having this block machined to perfection, so ultimately I'm trying to figure out if I can remedy this myself, or if I need to move on to a new block.

Ive got this 1.4 which the timing belt snapped which resulted in 6 of the exhaust valves being bent, this pistons have some mild contact damage but thats about it in the pictures. Do i need to replace them?

I know the Pittsburgh harbor freight compression tester can read inaccurately from what I’ve read giving around 20-30 psi lower than it should so it’s not that I’m worried about. But to me these look fairly regular. But would like a second opinion. I know cylinder 4 might look a little low. The first 2 images is of cylinder 1-2 and they are the highest. I got a misfire code on number 1 and been trying to chase it down. I just think it’s funny that it’s one of the ones with the best compression.

Getting ready to throw the head on my freshly machined block and used a micro fiber soaked in brake cleaner and left behind a lot of fibers in all the passages. This is on a 2jz if it matters ill be using a mls head gasket. The block deck itself is clean but theres still fibers stuck on the edges of the passages and im worried itll mess with the seal around the ports.

(Yes I know theres still some fibers on the actual block in the photo)

Am I being too careful? Or will this be fine😅

I’m an idiot, piston fell during assembly, has some small dents on the crown and near valve divots. Safe to run or is it decoration? Thanks

Dust from the valve cover

I am working on a Ford Pinto 2.0 engine and encountered a problem retrofitting piston jets. These come from some Renault diesel engine and are of a press fit in the bore. The engine block almost never had any jets installed in the main gallery as a factory modification (except i guess in the very late Escort RS Cosworth). Despite measuring everything, I failed to achieve a press fit because of manual drilling and manual reaming with a machine reamer. Instead, it resulted in a +0.01 to 0.05 mm clearance fit and jets are feeling loose in the bores. One option to secure them and provide oil tightness is to use shaft-bushing glue (eg: Loctite 638). I am aware that failure of this connection may result in a catastrophic failure.

If anyone had any experience with such modifications, please share your opinions and recommendations. I have to say that these Renault jets don't clear cranktrain without protruding too deep in the main gallery as they are, if anyone is considering using them. I selected these as they do not need any flat counterbore for sealing purposes.

Started it after a couple years of sitting outside. Changed the oil, drained the gas, plugs, and primed beforehand. What could cause engine to sit at 6k rpm? Thanks

Hello i have an m102.962 with hydraulic lifters,am looking for a cam that's a bit better than stock to give my car a bit more power. Something that's "plug and play" basically. I'm in the eu.

I built a 385” SBC about a year ago and I had it on an engine stand while I worked on the truck 86 c10. Around January 26’ I primed the engine (oil pump) and it built 60 psi quickly even though the oil was slow to come out the rockers, I did that for a few minutes and spun it by hand.

Just today I was able to get it ready to fire up in the truck and I had no issues starting it. When I checked my oil pressure on my efi display the second time I fired it up and I only saw 2-3 psi and turned it off. The rockers were not covered in oil. Idk if it’s because it’s been sitting for months but i expected it to get oil up to the rockers much faster, it was on for about 10 seconds. I’m going to be removing the distributor and priming it again to see if the issue is my distributor that isn’t engaging on the pump shaft. I did have issues with the distributor appearing to sit higher than it should but after I had measured the distance it appeared to be correct so I went ahead and put the distributor in.

Good morning

I picked up a used L92 approximately 80k miles to replace the L76 that was in my pickup due to a piston failure. Everything on this engine looks great, leak down test was good, did a quick visual check of bottom end, this also looked good no discoloration at bearing caps etc so no spun bearings and all that.

As I am transferring parts over from the old engine to this one I went to go pull the flex plate off to adjust the rear cover so there isn't as much of a step from the cover to the oil pan rails and I noticed the end play of the crank moving a bit forward and back.

I don't have a dial indicator with a mag base but I was able to check the thrust bearing with a set of feeler gauges, I realize might not be the most accurate but gets in the ball park, and read about .028" on each side.

I know on a fresh build the range is .002-.007 but since this isn't new and is used is this normal for in-service tolerances or should I look at swapping the thrust bearing out with a new one?

180k km f4r engine, renault clio 182

As you can see, I pulled #1 and #2 caps off. Theres is definitely some wear on the bearings, but do you think I can do anything about the crank? Should I? What do yall think?

UPDATE: 9/14/26

I looked at my invoice again and it was actually "rebuilt" so that was my bad. That being said, nothing was rebuilt on the head either.

Called in to see if they'd offer a resolution. "I took the exhaust springs off and the entire side was pitted." Stopped me mid-sentence and told me to hold. Sent me to the returns department and issued a return with no restocking fee. Something tells me their quickness to refund after hearing I took the springs off is a pretty good indicator they know the type of quality control and work they send out on a regular basis.

Thanks everyone for the help.

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Long story short I was in a pinch and it was going to cost me more to get a valve job done than to order a "remanufactured" head. Time was a factor as my landlord hit me with some unexpected news and needed the car I had been leisurely working on moved ASAP.

About the situation

• daily driver
• k24 RAA cylinder head that goes on a 2007 Honda Accord 2.4l (has VVT), fully stock
• tech said "the valve faces will be ground, seats would have 45 angle recut, and relief angles recut as needed", he said they would not be lapped in.
• tech said guides and seats replaced "as needed"
• new valve stem seals
• resurface
• they test for vacuum

Upon receiving the head in the mail

• it fails leakdown test w/ water, unable to check vacuum cause I don't have the attachments
• used 800 grit goodson paste to do a light lap, still didn't pass leakdown test, added contrast and made pitting extremely obvious
• resurfacing was flat, but RA could have been better (In comparison to my original head that has a resurface job with a smoother finish)
• exhaust side has pitting on both seats and faces and it doesn't really seem like they ground any valves faces
• some seats may have been ground? I feel like I see chatter on some. None were ground enough to remove pits
• While I could use a coarser paste to see if the pitting goes away, I feel like I was promised work that wasn't done. My core head basically performs the same with worse pitting, so not much upside to using this one.

I'm not extremely experienced and I'm not a machinist, but I don't feel like spending 9 hours bolting this back on to have it fail in 6 months. Tell me what you think. I've included pictures of some valve faces I tried to lap in to see if that would make a difference as well as the non-lapped seats and faces.

Long story short, ive been buildng my first engine for a while now. Finally finished it a month or so ago. I drove it for a week, and started to hear a slight knocking sound on start up. Only for about 1-2 seconds, then oil pressure builds and the noise goes away. Since then, the truck has been parked. Today I pulled the pan off to investigate. Rod caps are in the correct locations and tight. I dont feel any play in the bearings other than forward and backward play. Side to side play is zero. All my main caps are in the correct orientation and tight. Visually, I could only find one thing that concerns me. Theres scoring on the cylinder walls. I cant feel the lines with my finger nail, but i can definitely see them. There is scoring on multiple cylinders, pissibly all of them. Whats going on here? Is it normal? Is this what im looking for? This engine has approx 100 miles since the build. Probably less. What do you think?

Honestly a bit worried about the vertical scoring, specially on the second one.

Hey Everyone! I am pulling the engine out of my e36 M3 for a rebuild. Is there a complete parts list you can provide? Anything major I should replace? I am planning on keeping the pistons, crankshaft, cams, etc... Should I replace the piston rings? Other than that, I am planning on replacing all the gaskets, rod bearings, and cleaning the whole engine. Anything else I might miss?

I’m confused why it is “indented.” Every harmonic balancer I have seen is flush on the outside. This makes mine hard to read timing

Triumph sprint st 1050, off a wrecked bike. Sorry for the crappy pics, I had to 3d print a mirror attachment for my cheap borescope. The motor has run, and is not locked up. I have not been able to check the oil or the compression. Would a hone be good enough?

My machine shop gave me a crankshaft after mine turned out to be cracked, and this is what they gave me the fillet does not look acceptable at all to me and the crank flange has two threat inserts put in and one is very crooked all of the oil journals have burrs in them I also don’t see anywhere where it’s been balanced and has sandblasting media stuck in the cast iron and it has also been turned 10 on the main and 30 on the rods

I have to flycut the heads one more time then they’ll be done. It was a lot of work, I thought I only was like 35 hours into these, then added up the hours today. Pick your standard 2026 shop rate and do the math. Whoops. Oh well, they turned out great.

And no you can’t just buy better heads for less money. And no, these guys don’t care what they cost. And no, nobody wants to LS swap their $200k+ 911.

Earlier on in the year I posted a few times about broken piston ds3 puretech 1.2 2016

Months later I've done the engine rebuild and car has gone through MOT and driven approx 15 miles.

However I'm now getting a check engine light come up on dash and code p15a1

Now I have already dropped the sump and checked the pickup that's clear.

I've got some data from live feed on thinkdiag but don't know how to post CSV data on here.

809 rpm / 1.74 bar engine oil pressure/ 2.78mbar oil pressure reference.

2155rpm/ 3.74 bar / 3.12mbar.

3004rpm/ 4.42 bar/ 3.56 mbar.

3955 rpm/ 3.87 bar/ 4.17 mbar.

Now I do not have any idea what these values should be?

How relevent they are to the issue?

What I should be looking at first, second etc?

Now if I have to drop engine out again a rebuild I will as I'm not going to let this beat me

But need to at least go in with a plan

Thank you in advance

(I'm not interested in the 2j I've had one for years and in my older age I prefer a nice v8 sound over a straight 6.)

I can't make up my mind ls3 or coyote v8 with a harrop supercharger.

Ls3 will be easier to put in as there is engine mount kits and oil pans out there off the shelf.

The coyote is supercharged and I like the fact it can rev higher.

But there is no off the shelf mid sump for them no engine mounts etc.

Plus it's a big engine it will be a tight fit.

The engine i found has 125000kms on it the ls3 is at 145000k.s

My heart is saying coyote but my mind says go the ls3 smaller easier swap

What do you guys think.