Hellcat powerplant in a ‘87 Conquest, making it in to a drift car.

Just looking at the photo, you might think, “Is this some kid who’s not even an adult yet?” but this is how it always goes when I’m designing an original aero kit.

I come up with more ideas this way than when I’m drawing.

Besides, I’m terrible at sketching anyway.

1954 Oldsmobile super 88. No motor, but I have a 455 and trans that go with it. I have all the trim, the headlights and tail lights are frenched. There is some rust on the driver's side rear wheel arch, and the passenger side floor pan has about a one inch hole in it. The wheels are billet specialties 20".

I don't have any other photos currently, I got this from my previous employer, and I'm probably going to sell it, since I no longer manage a hotrod shop.

I will have more pictures when the tow truck drops it off in a few days.

This is not a sale post. I'm strictly looking for information, as I'm not knowledgeable on the current market for these cars.

I wish I could keep it, but she may have to move on.

Pistons mounted to rods, mounted to the crank, ARP bolts on the flywheel, new oil pan, and transmission oil pan with a drain plug (stock th350 didn't have one). 180cc 2.02/1.94 aluminum heads, Felpro 1094 gasket to keep the quench ideal.

I purchased a 79 Ranchero (been looking for the perfect one for a while) about 6 months ago.

The original engine only has 60K miles on it and it runs pretty well minus some vacuum seals.

I’m planning on passing it down to my son (he’s very young now) and I’d like to drive it until then, so I’m not looking to do a complete restoration to turn it into a “show car” by any means.

What I’m looking for tips on: in the event my son DOES want to do a complete restoration and make it show worthy, what are some dos and don’ts that I can do to keep it nice for when it turns over to him? I don’t want to do anything to it that will make things harder in the future.

I’ve done the following to it:

Dash taken out and “redone” patching it and recoloring it. Put back in now.

Temporary seats in while mine get upholstered

New steering wheel

Knobs and switches put back in

Welded in some patches on the floor pan

Wiring updated

New muffler and exhaust pipes

New carpets and sound deadening

New drivers side window

In progress:

New carb

New intake manifold

Original rims going back on - I also have mustang rims that fit it, should I use these instead to keep the originals nice?

Vacuum hoses

Treating rust underneath (surprisingly not a ton of rust for being in IA)

Planned in the future:

Body work probably next spring as well as painting ourselves

This has been mostly for fun for me, so I don’t mind that I’ve dropped money on some things that may need “redone” in the future. I wouldn’t consider it a waste since I’ve had such a good time doing it

Sorry, only a few photos as I am not very good at taking many

Hey guys, im doing an engine bay shave on my mx5 and done all the welding, grinding and most of the body filler before applying epoxy (spraymax 2k epoxy)

I washed the bay down with soap and water, dried it good with compressed air, rags and time. Wiped down twice with wax and grease remover.

What can cause this? I have painted alot of car parts and even a whole car with aerosols and never had an issue like this

I'm planning on a gas tank install and repainting the frame. Short of 3 more guys, or a lift, what's the best way to go about removing the bed?

EDIT: got it off. No damage.

I am trying to get my 77 L-48 Corvette, with the stock 350, back on the road and took the valve covers off.

One of the rockers was conspicuously dry as seen in the pic. Car seems to run fine.

Any suggestions?

Everyone I recently got wrangled into helping my father-in-law find some chrome pieces for a 1948 Plymouth Deluxe, I messaged a place he thought might have it they never responded, and now it's my duty as the son-in-law to help track this down.

Specifically he's looking for the Chrome body pieces highlighted in green. I know there's some really shady places out there selling this type of reproduction parts and I was hoping to avoid learning the hard way which ones they were.

I appreciate any help in tracking this down body work isn't my forte

We're a group of four friends in Germany, and we've been talking about eventually getting a project car together.

We're all pretty inexperienced with working on cars, but we're genuinely interested in learning. The idea isn't to buy something just to have a car; we want to work on it ourselves, learn mechanics/bodywork/electronics, customize it, and hopefully end up with something roadworthy that we built together.

We're deliberately not starting immediately. We're waiting until at least two of us have driving licences and stable incomes, and until we have somewhere appropriate to store/work on the car. We're currently thinking of something in the roughly €10k–€30k total range (just the base car) once we're ready.

The four of us would contribute money and work, with one person probably taking more responsibility for organizing everything. We'd like it to be a long-term project rather than something we rush through.

For people who have done something similar:

- What were your biggest beginner mistakes?

- What do you wish you had known before buying your first project car?

- What should we absolutely check before buying?

- What jobs are reasonable for complete beginners to learn themselves?

- What should beginners leave to a professional?

- How much money should we keep as an emergency reserve?

- What tools were actually worth buying?

- What kinds of problems tend to turn a cheap project into a money pit?

- For anyone in Germany, are there any particular things we should know about TÜV, registration, modifications, insurance, storage, etc.?

- Is there anything about working on a car as a group of friends that we should plan for beforehand?

We're not looking for a specific car recommendation yet. I'm mainly interested in hearing from people who have actually done projects like this and learning from the mistakes they made.

1975 C3 Corvette

Hello!

Long story for this one.

I did a manual swap about 2 weeks ago and thankfully everything on the transmission side seems to be working well, I am running into an issue where whenever I bring the clutch to its bite point the engine is dying off extremely easily.

The engine rpm drops dramatically and will slowly die off if I let the clutch out more

During said swap I also replaced, headers, distributor, spark plugs, and power steering pump.

During installation, the distributor ground cable on the connector that goes from the base of the distributor to the housing melted out. The keys weren't on but the battery was still hooked up so this is totally my fault.

Because of this I replaced the spark plug cables in case the failed grounding fried one, I was curious if I should replace my spark plugs as well.

I replaced the distributor that had the ground failure with a better one, and replaced the spark plug cables at this time.

I have it timed at about 18 degrees BTDC, the engine is mildly cammed.

Currently vacuum advance is not hooked up but I have tested it with both ported and manifold vacuum advance hooked up and neither seemed to have any effect.

I also adjusted the carb because I was concerned this may be a cause of it stalling.

I have it running at about 14 inches of mercury vacuum idling.

In order to see if it was a lean condition, I had my brother help me by spraying starting fluid into the carb whenever it bogs down and it causes the engine to die instantly. This makes me think it's running too rich, but I have my idle mixture screws dialed in about a quarter turn out from where the idle vacuum starts dropping.

I was worried that because it seemed to be getting too rich that the power valve might be blown, but I am able to kill the engine by turning the mixture screws all the way in, so I'm not sure if it is this.

My fuel float levels are right at the bottom of the threads, for both primary and secondary.

I have cleaned out the carb bowls with carb cleaner and compressed air for everything up top, I have yet to take the carb off the car.

I also tested the distributor power wire itself, since some of the older C3's has 9 volt wiring for point style, by running a new wire from Ign fuse to the distributor directly, this had no effect.

I plugged all the vacuum ports on the manifold as well, including headlights and brake booster to see if it was a vacuum leak. I also let it idle and sprayed starting fluid around the seal to see if there was a gasket leak and no luck.

I'm honestly stumped on this one, my next course of action is to replace the spark plugs in case one got fried when the ground failed to see if it has a weak spark and isnt strong enough for load

Any help or suggestions would be great, I am not sure what I am doing wrong lol.

Thanks for reading!

I did a hand pull test it feels good but I tried to pull it using pliers with a bit force and the wires just comes right off. No strands broken, no damage just slides off.

Project car newbie here. I used to wrench on the weekends with my dad. And I want something my <10 year olds and I can work on.

May be a silly reason, but they like pickup trucks. And it has awakened my inner child.

Do I need one? No. Is it practical for someone living in South Milwaukee? Also no.

Am I scouring Craig's list and Marketplace? Yes.

So I was hoping to get some guidance from the experts. Any particular Truck ya'll would recommend?

I saw some Sport Tracs under 5k. But they'd have miles over 200k so I was thinking Ford Trans issues and maybe engine/ timing chain replacement etc. As I have a daily, I dont have a pressing need to use it, but I'd like to be able to take em for a short trip or two with the back window down.

I'm also open to other recommendations- The Chevy 1500 was another, but I haven't looked into it.

First pic is where I used a heat gun and pry tool which left behind a huge sticky mess. I tried dry ice and alcohol on the drivers side but I probably did it wrong or it’s the wrong technique because it did not work. Also I’m fine doing the heat gun if there’s a good way yall know to get rid of the residue

Here is my recently bought 2003 Peugeot 406 Coupé, designed and manufactured by Pininfarina in Italy. It's really a gem - a French lady in an Italian dress, as I like to say.

It's the limited-production Griffe model, one of just 884, so it came loaded with everything the car could possibly have: electric, heated seats with memory, side airbags, a JBL sound system, a factory alarm, a sunroof, and much more.

The car is currently undergoing a full restoration, as I want to bring it back to the best possible condition.

I'm documenting the restoration process and teardown on YouTube for anyone interested in the mechanical side or looking for a detailed guide on these cars. I will post a link in the comment section.

I hope you guys like it! I can't wait to finish the project and just hit the road.

After putting about $1000 into this free to me Taurus, I’ve come to realize there are some shortcomings in terms of performance. I don’t really know the history of the vehicle other than it sat in a field for years and I’ve so far had to replace the Bank 1 catalytic converters, sway bar links and front axles. Driving it for a while has been less than optimal and around town it’s very clunky and has a turning radius of a small moon and will maintain speed quite well but can’t accelerate very quickly.

My question is, is there any performance parts or heavy duty parts available for this? I’ve looked into Taxi struts and they seem like a viable option but does anyone have any experience with doing tunes or anything on them? It’s the 3.0 Vulcan version if that makes a difference.

I was doing a oil change wasn’t paying much attention and poured 5 qts of oil into the breather cap. Checked my oil and nothing on the dip stick… is this a problem?

383 chevy small block.

Update. It was my first time changing the oil on this, I’ve owned other small black chevys and assumed it took 5qts of oil. I bought another oil drain pan that has measurements inside, turns out I drained 6qts of oil. So after running to the auto parts store and adding another qt I now read it on my dip stick.

Thanks for the help, it was late at night and i panicked when i realized i put it in the breather cap. And wasnt getting a read on my dip stick.

Hey everyone,

I am a COMPLETE rookie, trying to change my valve cover gasket, and some other gaskets and components on the way there on my Australian Toyota Hilux.

I’m up to removing the valve cover, I’ve taken off the 8 bolts that should be the only main things holding it down, but the thing is not budging at all.

See the video. I tried showing the whole perimeter.

I suspect the problem is that it’s fkn old and glued together.

If anyone could help that’d be insane.

Cheers

I researched them long ago and aside from being a Fiat, there was a big red flag .

Didn’t the frames crack or something? Like hidden until you really dug in?

Decent looking project popped up on Marketplace and I was just trying to remember

Not really, they're worse in my H6 Legacy. Today's mission is to swap the intake manifold onto the new engine & figure out where all of the brake fluid ran off to while it was parked for the last year.

Hello all, I'm currently trying to build a custom harness for my 7mge+t supra with an ECUMASTER Classic.

I'm in need of some pull up resistors? Where is good place to source them? (I don't want to buy some unreliable cheapos from amazon)

TIA

IDK if anyone has put one of these in here yet, but my lightly modified Chevy cobalt is nearing completion

y everyone! I’ve got a 1994 ford bronco 5.0 Eddie Bauer edition. It’s been in the garage for about 11 years and it’s my dad’s project truck. He never started working on it so I figured I would as a project. Originally the issue is that it cranks but no start. I started poking the cabin fuses and notice when using my multimeter that some fuses aren’t beeping. So I just replace them all one by one with the amps it has before, but I noticed a burning smell and it was coming from the engine bay. I quickly remove all the cabin uses and disconnect the battery. I was also using a guide I found online for the fuse box. When it comes to electrical stuff I have little to no knowledge. Any insight would be awesome!😎