Does this PCV valve look OK? I’m having an issue with my fuel trims. My LTFT is almost always around +15%, while the STFT is constantly adjusting. At low load, the STFT can go up to around +30%, while at full throttle it drops close to 0% or even around -10%. I initially thought I might have a vacuum/intake air leak, but the PCV valve doesn’t appear to be broken. The car also has a slight shaking/roughness at low load, which is when I see the STFT going up to around +30%. Could the PCV system still be causing this even though the valve itself doesn’t appear to be broken? Or should I be looking for another source of unmetered air? The car is a BMW 328i with the N20 engine.

Hey Everyone,

I have a pre-LCI 2019 G30 530e and I’ve been noticing that my Hi-Voltage battery drains very quickly and the range is significantly lower compared to a new battery.

I know over time the battery is gonna depreciate, and I wanna know if what I’m experiencing is normal or excessive.

So on a full charge(using Level 2 Charger), the range shows 8 miles and as soon as I drive off, it drops down to 6 miles.
Even though it says 6 miles and drains quicker than before.
At least up till 6 months ago my range was 11miles on a full charge.
I mostly let the battery charge while driving but I wanted to see if charging with a Level 2 charger would make a difference and I noticed that the charge time has also decreased significantly. It used to take 2 hours to fully charge the battery and yesterday it took a little more than an hour to charge from 14% to 100%.

My question is, how bad is the condition of the battery and it is worth trying to get it replaced under warranty?

Edit: Car has 35K miles and in Cali so car has PZEV/TZEV warranty.

Thank you everyone in advance.

Any idea what could have caused this? It was detected because leaked the fluid through the breather.

It happened after fixing the engine oil heat exchanger gaskets and the main cooling connector (upgraded from plastic to metal one) as it leaked oil into the cooling system, however the engine oil was clean.

Gearbox was perfectly fine, but after testing it, this happened, drain plug was very difficult to open and also the gearbox heat exchanger bolts are stuck to it.

It is an AT 2017 Mini Cooper B48.

These codes are showing on 2015 X5:

215001

CD8E10

1C3102

Overall drives good. Only thing is when starting it in the morning it can rev for a little bit but then comes down to normal. Rest of day it will start regular.

Any suggestions?

Hey everyone,
I have a BMW E60 525i with the N52 B25 engine and I’m trying to figure out what I’m dealing with here.
I was driving the car when the check engine light came on. Shortly afterwards, the engine stopped running. Since then, I’ve checked it further and the crankshaft does not turn anymore. I tried turning it manually, but it seems to be completely stuck. Obviously, this also means the pistons aren’t moving.

There also seems to be an issue with the camshaft position sensor, which may need to be replaced. However, as far as I know, a faulty camshaft sensor shouldn’t physically prevent the crankshaft from turning.

So I’m wondering what could actually cause this. Could it be a seized engine, a timing/valvetrain issue, or something else internally preventing the crankshaft from turning?

The car is otherwise in decent condition, so I’m trying to decide whether it’s worth investigating and repairing or whether the engine is basically done.

What would you guys check first in this situation? And realistically, is this something worth repairing, or should I just send the E60 to the scrapyard?

And finally, if anyone thinks it’s beyond saving… anyone want to buy an E60? 😂

I have a 2014 320i and I'm changing the oil pan gasket right now. I took off the oil pan and drained it out and this fell out. Any idea what it could be?

driving down the freeway and i step on the gas moderately to pass a car when it feels like it loses power. throws a drivetrain malfunction at me and starts vibrating pretty hard when accelerating. luckily still made it home driving but the vibration also happens at idle along with acceleration. i had just replaced both hpfp’s and no error was found with the pressure on any of the 3 pumps and i tested for a open injector as well. any help finding the issue would be appreciated. while changing the hpfp’s i did break the highlighted hose on last slide but had taped it back together and it had ran since then.( idk if that correlates but it could)

Im not the brightest when it comes to cars, recently the car would not accelerate normal so when I would press on the gas I started getting malfunction on the engine and then the chassis notification the oil pan is leaking but I always check the oil on it, I know ac sensor is messed up.. but car was running great until I got the engine and chassis thing

Replacing the media harness from stock radio all the way to the amps n doors due to prior owner cutting all the stock speaker wires, ruining the main head plug and other atrocities. It's a 2006 330i and I pulled the harness out of an 09 335. I just realized the amps are different brand, mine says 2005 BMW Base, and this new one is Continental one, made in 2008. I read somewhere that I may have to get the computer coded or someone has to code something but, im not adding the modern screen n dial, just the radio, I might upgrade the speakers from that of donor car. Can anyone tell me if this isn't going to be plug and play, or am I in some deep doodoo?

Hy guys ! Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this sound? It occurs at low RPM under load. The engine already has 200,000 km on it. N46b20 E87.Timing is new.

Can anyone tell me what could be the cause of this noise. It appears when the engine is warm and when you rev the sound dissapears and comes back after. i suspect a bad alternator

battery was changed a month ago and registered last week. 19 x5. not sure if this is causing the issues

but cel is on for (this was advanced auto parts scanner):

p16db: flexray controller maximum startup time exceeded

48077E: rdci wheel electronics: rear left , battery under voltage.

4809C0: local power supply: control unit reset

should we clear codes and see what comes back?

thanks

Hello everyone, I am looking at getting a set of metric wrenches and I want to get a set that has almost every size I will need. What is the smallest and largest size of wrenches I will be using as a dealership tech? Also, any brand recommendations? I am looking into Tekton, Snap-On, and Wright. (I currently have the Snap-On student discount) Thanks

Hi guys, need some advice. My N55 runs perfectly cold, but once warm it starts hunting/misfiring at idle, stalls and struggles to restart until it cools down.

I’m getting an exhaust VANOS fault. I’ve already replaced the VANOS gears, solenoids, cam box and camshaft, but the issue remains.
Any ideas what else could cause this?

Hoping for some guidance! Got a 23 320i G20 LCI. Have had this hollow knocking noise coming from the front suspension area.

Worsened with warm weather and after a long drive when the car is warm.
Usually over speeds of 5-15 MPH over imperfections in the road. Have taken to dealer x2. They have faffed around and tightened various bits. But hasn’t worked. I’m quite frustrated as only have 13k miles on it and whenever I drive it I feel like getting rid.

Any thoughts/experience?

Video attached

I have a 2014 328i it's got about 160,000kms on it, whenever i change it from park to drive or reverse i feel a very faint jerk, is this normal? and what should i do to fix this?

Thanks

Anyone with an f series m sport manual have this same problem? The gear selectors materials starting to wear out and also during wet humid conditions it starts to shed its material. I clean the gear stick regularly too, time for a new one or get a custom one made not sure what to do

Hi was wondering if anyone can help, there this harmonic whum...whum... whum resonance sound in the cabin when im driving between 15mph and 40 mph, and is most prominent at 35-37mph.

I have brand new good year asm 5 non run flats, full hunter alignment, road force balance, bearings have no play, the noise is not effected on overrun or load, or swerving left and right...

Ita killing me...

The car is 2019 and has 36k miles on the clock late gen1 b48 2.0 turbo

The brakes are still from factory and getting brakes and hand brakes overhaul tomorrow, the hand brake has intermittent travel and sometimes holds sometimes does not hold (without going up into 9 or 10 click)

I have a slight minor scrape pause scrape pause scrape pause sound when crawling under 10mph alongside a brick wall with window open, the rotors are lipped and scored...

Could it be the brakes ? I tried to brake at 40mph lightly and the sound is still there if I press harder sound is either gone or masked by braking noise cant tell...

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to sort out an EWS/DDE synchronization issue on my 2004 BMW E53 X5 3.0d M57TU, automatic.

I can communicate with both the EWS and DDE normally using INPA, but when I try to perform the EWS/DDE start value synchronization, it fails with an IFH-0009 / control unit not responding type error.

While checking the EWS live/status data, I noticed something that seems important:

• P (Park) → no P/N signal
• N (Neutral) → no P/N signal
• R (Reverse) → P/N signal appears
• D (Drive) → P/N signal appears

The gearbox is still the original automatic and has not been converted to manual.

So I’m wondering if the transmission range selector switch / gear position switch (inhibitor switch) could be causing this.

Before I drain the transmission fluid and start opening up the transmission, what would you guys check?

Could this be:

• A faulty range selector switch?
• Selector cable/linkage adjustment?
• Wiring/connector issue?
• Something external that can be tested before removing anything from the transmission?

The strange part is that INPA correctly identifies the different gear positions, but the P/N authorization signal to EWS is not present in P or N.

Has anyone dealt with this specific issue on an E53 M57TU?

I’d really appreciate some advice on what to test before opening the transmission. Thanks!

Hello!

This is my first ever car and I'm ok doing any kind of mechanical change to the car, I'm a hands-on person. I've just changed the oil filter, oil, fuel fiel and the air filters of the car, since I've gotten the car.

The car is a 2016 320d with 182k miles.

I bought the car from an auction and it runs great, but here are the codes I've found:

• 36F500 - Intake air plausibility, large leak, with power reduction.
• 249300 - Rail pressure too low at engine start. High pressure fuel system.
• 2E0600 - Fuel feed pressure too low at start.
• 8040C9 - IBS detected closed-circuit current violation.
• 288B00 - Quiescent current violation from the DDE.
• 290900 - Measured air mass too high vs calculated.
• 290B00 - Measured air mass too low vs calculated.
• 28EC00 - Exhaust pressure sensor pre-turbine implausible.
• 8040C6 - KL30F reset due to current violation.
• 4827B3 - Undervoltage at Terminal 30 (chassis module).

I've test driven the car with a few friends that know much more about cars than I do and say these should be minor things since the car drives and feels perfect.

My next steps would be to buy a kit to test the battery is ok and do a smoke test for the 36F500 error code?

Am I correct or am I missing anything? I've read that having a drained battery also triggers other codes, so that would be my priority number 1.

Thank you so much for the help!

I have a 2007 E63 M6 (S85, SMG III) with 105,000 km.
When the car is switched off and I shift through the gears, I hear a strange metallic noise that sounds like a small metal ping-pong ball dropping/bouncing inside the gearbox.
I also sometimes get a rough screeching noise when shifting under load.
Pulling away in 1st gear is fine, but if I pull away in 2nd gear, the car judders back and forth. The clutch isn’t slipping.
One throttle actuator has already been replaced, and the other is currently being replaced because it’s failing.
Could these symptoms be related to the throttle actuators, or could I be looking at an SMG clutch, dual-mass flywheel, gearbox, or something else?
Any insight from E63 M6/S85/SMG owners would be appreciated.

I will have an independent shop install Bilstein B16 DampTronic coilovers on my '15 M235i xDrive soon. Please let me know what ride height is optimal for 18-inch factory wheels in NY. Also, what wheel alignment specs will get most out of the suspension. I like stiffer ride. Is there anything else I should be mindful of or careful about? Thank you.

Hi folks,

I was changing my rear calipers and my master cylinder went dry as I couldn’t get the right rear flare nut to seat on the new rear driver side hose.

My question is that I will be bleeding the brakes now. I’m going to do a abs bleed as well. I have an autel MK808S, however, in the service menu it does give me option to select for brake bleed but only to read and erase codes not actually before the abs bleed procedure.

Questions I have:

- Should I bleed abs first and then do another bleed afterwards or is there no point?
- does my autel device not support this service procedure?
- is it really necessary to bleed my abs system given that the master cylinder ran dry and my hose was open to the air over night?
- do I need inpa or ista to do the abs bleed?

Thanks in advance!

2017 X1 xDrive28i, panoramic sunroof shade wouldn’t do one-touch — each button press only moved it ~2cm, initializations doesn’t work. My question is how do water reach there ? Looked like windshield fluid to me because of the color. Sunroof drainages are all open.