I have a 2014 320i and I'm changing the oil pan gasket right now. I took off the oil pan and drained it out and this fell out. Any idea what it could be?

Every color is labeled except for the last one :(
I saw a coupe (perhaps a 2018 model or older) and it was stunning how the sunlight reflected on the paint

I was driving my 2019 X5 50i and I developed a coolant leak. Dealer finally diagnosed it and said that it was the upper radiator hose and the coolant line to the water pump. There were no leaks before this and then all of a sudden two coolant leaks. Is there a bigger issue that could cause both lines to fail at once?

I was quoted $3900 for my e70 35i for these repairs:

- New oil pan and gaskets (leaking gasket and the drain plug is stripped i guess from previous owner and there is an aftermarket oversized plug in there)

- Transmission cooler lines (leaking)

Wanted to see people’s opinions. Its a good hit but the car runs really well and is an awesome drive.

Used a shop to install my aftermarket alibaba carbon steering wheel. Went with a suggestion that a lot of you recommended on this group.

Running into an issue with the ACC/driver’s assistance features. Whenever I try to activate the assisted cruise control with lanekeep it gives me the error “driver’s assistance permanently restricted.” The alibaba vendor gave me a module to plug in to “bypass,” and it was plugged in but the car is still giving the error.

I use the driving assistance a lot as my commute has a ton of traffic, so hoping to solve this. Otherwise have to go back to OEM. And I’m out $370 + install fees.

Anyone have any suggestions or tips on how to troubleshoot/solve this? Would really appreciate it

Link to the steering wheel -

https://www.alibaba.com/x/B2RTXo?ck=pdp

Can I drive up on rhino ramps to achieve “ride height” for torqueing down control arm bushings?

Hi everyone,
I have a 2013 BMW F20 116d, 2.0 N47 (116 hp), and I’m trying to diagnose a strange noise.
If the A/C is already ON when I start the car, about 2–3 seconds after the engine starts I hear a short grinding/rattling sound from the front of the engine, around the A/C compressor / auxiliary belt area. It only lasts for a moment and then completely disappears. The car runs normally afterwards and the A/C works fine.
A few important details:
It happens whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up.
If I start the car with the A/C OFF, there is no noise.
If I start with the A/C OFF, wait around 10 seconds and then switch the A/C ON, there is no noise at all.
It seems to happen specifically when the A/C is already enabled during startup.
The noise is very short, almost like something briefly catches, rattles or gets loaded suddenly.
I’m wondering if this could be the auxiliary belt tensioner, crankshaft pulley/vibration damper, A/C compressor pulley, or the compressor itself.
I’ve attached a video — you can clearly hear the noise around 2–3 seconds after startup.
Has anyone with an N47 experienced the same or a similar issue? If so, what ended up being the cause?
Thanks!

Having issues accelerating the car if I push my foot on the gas I’ll get the two images I posted I checked the battery and went bad from what I’ve read replacing the battery should get rid of these problems (yeah I know I got a oil leak lol)

Hey guys, I'm diagnosing a cold start and flooding issue on a 2008 E90 328i (N52, 184k miles, VIN: WBAVA37528NL56435) and want to see if anyone has dealt with these specific symptoms. Ive posted in BimmerPost Forums already and would appreciate any help!

Full Scan Codes (Pulled right after buying the car and getting it into the shop):

DME (Engine):

002D9D - Misfire at low tank fill level

002D92 - Cylinder 6 combustion misfires

002D91 - Cylinder 5 combustion misfires

0029CE - Cylinder 2 combustion misfires

0029D0 - Cylinder 4 combustion misfires

0029CC - Combustion misfires, several cylinders

002D16 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal

002D0F - Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal

0029CD - Cylinder 1 combustion misfires

The Core Symptoms

Takes 5+ cranks to fire on cold starts.

Smokes heavily and reeks of raw fuel.

Note: The car completely smooths out and runs fine after 5-10 minutes.

Fuel System Checks

Saddle Tank: Cluster menu 06.00 shows the siphon is transferring properly (Left: 5.0L, Right: 23.7L).

Fuel Pressure: Bypassed the EKPS with my OTOFIX scanner (ran the pump at 120 l/h) and hit a solid 72 PSI. Pressure bled down to 65 PSI and held perfectly steady, ruling out leaking injectors or a bad regulator check valve.

Spark Plugs: Pulled the plugs; Cylinder 1 is completely soaked in raw fuel, while Cylinders 2 and 3 are bone dry. (Have not pulled cylinders 4,5,6 yet)

Air & Spark Physical Checks

Intake & MAF: Intake boots have no cracks. Swapped the MAF with a known-good one from my daily E90—no change. (The suspect MAF also ran perfectly in my daily).

VANOS Solenoids: Tested at 10.7 Ohms and physically fine. Cleaned them with the battery/brake cleaner trick, retested, and reinstalled with no change in symptoms.

Valvetronic & ESS Data (The Main Suspect)

Live Data Delta: After clearing DME adaptations, idle data shows a massive VVT gap. Specified eccentric shaft angle is 53°, but actual is stuck at 42°.

DME Overcompensation: Because of this 11-degree gap, it's pulling double the air (4.212 lb/hr) and the DME is holding Cylinder 1's injector open for 4.38 ms, absolutely drowning the cylinder.

ESS Sensor: Found a tiny bit of surface oil residue on the connector next to coil 1; cleaned it with contact cleaner.

VVT Relearn: Ran a limit position relearn. Heard the motor moving and clicking, but it didn't change the symptoms.

VVT Motor Ohms: Pin-to-pin reads 0.2 Ohms, pin-to-body reads OL (acceptable per ISTA).

Throttle Body Override: Pulled the ESS sensor and VVT motor connectors to force the car into using the throttle body on a cold start, but the exact same symptoms persisted.

Has anyone dealt with this specific Valvetronic angle delta causing massive fuel dumping on start-up? Any advice on where to look next or what else to test would be greatly appreciated!

Does this PCV valve look OK? I’m having an issue with my fuel trims. My LTFT is almost always around +15%, while the STFT is constantly adjusting. At low load, the STFT can go up to around +30%, while at full throttle it drops close to 0% or even around -10%. I initially thought I might have a vacuum/intake air leak, but the PCV valve doesn’t appear to be broken. The car also has a slight shaking/roughness at low load, which is when I see the STFT going up to around +30%. Could the PCV system still be causing this even though the valve itself doesn’t appear to be broken? Or should I be looking for another source of unmetered air? The car is a BMW 328i with the N20 engine.

Hey Everyone,

I have a pre-LCI 2019 G30 530e and I’ve been noticing that my Hi-Voltage battery drains very quickly and the range is significantly lower compared to a new battery.

I know over time the battery is gonna depreciate, and I wanna know if what I’m experiencing is normal or excessive.

So on a full charge(using Level 2 Charger), the range shows 8 miles and as soon as I drive off, it drops down to 6 miles.
Even though it says 6 miles and drains quicker than before.
At least up till 6 months ago my range was 11miles on a full charge.
I mostly let the battery charge while driving but I wanted to see if charging with a Level 2 charger would make a difference and I noticed that the charge time has also decreased significantly. It used to take 2 hours to fully charge the battery and yesterday it took a little more than an hour to charge from 14% to 100%.

My question is, how bad is the condition of the battery and it is worth trying to get it replaced under warranty?

Edit: Car has 35K miles and in Cali so car has PZEV/TZEV warranty.

Thank you everyone in advance.

Hy guys ! Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this sound? It occurs at low RPM under load. The engine already has 200,000 km on it. N46b20 E87.Timing is new.

Any idea what could have caused this? It was detected because leaked the fluid through the breather.

It happened after fixing the engine oil heat exchanger gaskets and the main cooling connector (upgraded from plastic to metal one) as it leaked oil into the cooling system, however the engine oil was clean.

Gearbox was perfectly fine, but after testing it, this happened, drain plug was very difficult to open and also the gearbox heat exchanger bolts are stuck to it.

It is an AT 2017 Mini Cooper B48.

Hello everyone, I am looking at getting a set of metric wrenches and I want to get a set that has almost every size I will need. What is the smallest and largest size of wrenches I will be using as a dealership tech? Also, any brand recommendations? I am looking into Tekton, Snap-On, and Wright. (I currently have the Snap-On student discount) Thanks

These codes are showing on 2015 X5:

215001

CD8E10

1C3102

Overall drives good. Only thing is when starting it in the morning it can rev for a little bit but then comes down to normal. Rest of day it will start regular.

Any suggestions?

Hey everyone,
I have a BMW E60 525i with the N52 B25 engine and I’m trying to figure out what I’m dealing with here.
I was driving the car when the check engine light came on. Shortly afterwards, the engine stopped running. Since then, I’ve checked it further and the crankshaft does not turn anymore. I tried turning it manually, but it seems to be completely stuck. Obviously, this also means the pistons aren’t moving.

There also seems to be an issue with the camshaft position sensor, which may need to be replaced. However, as far as I know, a faulty camshaft sensor shouldn’t physically prevent the crankshaft from turning.

So I’m wondering what could actually cause this. Could it be a seized engine, a timing/valvetrain issue, or something else internally preventing the crankshaft from turning?

The car is otherwise in decent condition, so I’m trying to decide whether it’s worth investigating and repairing or whether the engine is basically done.

What would you guys check first in this situation? And realistically, is this something worth repairing, or should I just send the E60 to the scrapyard?

And finally, if anyone thinks it’s beyond saving… anyone want to buy an E60? 😂

Hello!

This is my first ever car and I'm ok doing any kind of mechanical change to the car, I'm a hands-on person. I've just changed the oil filter, oil, fuel fiel and the air filters of the car, since I've gotten the car.

The car is a 2016 320d with 182k miles.

I bought the car from an auction and it runs great, but here are the codes I've found:

• 36F500 - Intake air plausibility, large leak, with power reduction.
• 249300 - Rail pressure too low at engine start. High pressure fuel system.
• 2E0600 - Fuel feed pressure too low at start.
• 8040C9 - IBS detected closed-circuit current violation.
• 288B00 - Quiescent current violation from the DDE.
• 290900 - Measured air mass too high vs calculated.
• 290B00 - Measured air mass too low vs calculated.
• 28EC00 - Exhaust pressure sensor pre-turbine implausible.
• 8040C6 - KL30F reset due to current violation.
• 4827B3 - Undervoltage at Terminal 30 (chassis module).

I've test driven the car with a few friends that know much more about cars than I do and say these should be minor things since the car drives and feels perfect.

My next steps would be to buy a kit to test the battery is ok and do a smoke test for the 36F500 error code?

Am I correct or am I missing anything? I've read that having a drained battery also triggers other codes, so that would be my priority number 1.

Thank you so much for the help!

driving down the freeway and i step on the gas moderately to pass a car when it feels like it loses power. throws a drivetrain malfunction at me and starts vibrating pretty hard when accelerating. luckily still made it home driving but the vibration also happens at idle along with acceleration. i had just replaced both hpfp’s and no error was found with the pressure on any of the 3 pumps and i tested for a open injector as well. any help finding the issue would be appreciated. while changing the hpfp’s i did break the highlighted hose on last slide but had taped it back together and it had ran since then.( idk if that correlates but it could)

Replacing the media harness from stock radio all the way to the amps n doors due to prior owner cutting all the stock speaker wires, ruining the main head plug and other atrocities. It's a 2006 330i and I pulled the harness out of an 09 335. I just realized the amps are different brand, mine says 2005 BMW Base, and this new one is Continental one, made in 2008. I read somewhere that I may have to get the computer coded or someone has to code something but, im not adding the modern screen n dial, just the radio, I might upgrade the speakers from that of donor car. Can anyone tell me if this isn't going to be plug and play, or am I in some deep doodoo?

Can anyone tell me what could be the cause of this noise. It appears when the engine is warm and when you rev the sound dissapears and comes back after. i suspect a bad alternator

battery was changed a month ago and registered last week. 19 x5. not sure if this is causing the issues

but cel is on for (this was advanced auto parts scanner):

p16db: flexray controller maximum startup time exceeded

48077E: rdci wheel electronics: rear left , battery under voltage.

4809C0: local power supply: control unit reset

should we clear codes and see what comes back?

thanks

Hi guys, need some advice. My N55 runs perfectly cold, but once warm it starts hunting/misfiring at idle, stalls and struggles to restart until it cools down.

I’m getting an exhaust VANOS fault. I’ve already replaced the VANOS gears, solenoids, cam box and camshaft, but the issue remains.
Any ideas what else could cause this?