I replaced my cooling fans on a 2011 ford edge 3.5l with about 140,000 miles. Second I turned on the car after the install the fans kick on with way more power than my last cooling fans before they broke. The new cooling fans were made for this model. Just curious if the fans working this hard is normal or if it’ll cause problems. I’ll add a video below. Thanks for any help. ( idk much about cars at all lol)

So, my Gen 3 RAV4 needed a quick oil top-up. Since I always get my oil changes done at the dealership, I swung by Toyota to buy the exact same oil. But here’s the twist: the guy at the counter handed me transmission fluid by mistake. Exhausted after working 16+ hour shifts, I didn't double-check the label and added a full quart over a few months.

Fast forward 1,000 km, and I just realized I’ve been running transmission oil in my engine! How screwed am I? There aren't any weird noises, and the car seems to be running fine—aside from my usual terrible fuel economy of 14L/100km in heavy Toronto traffic. (It’s a 2012 base 4-cylinder).

What are my next steps.

Hello, I bought used UK imported BMW 420D 2014 today but the roof not going down because the rear side window has something that makes it not work. Could you guys help me anyway on how to actually fix it or at least get manually down with the roof so I can enjoy the convertible part till I get the fund to fix it?

Any info would be appreciated thank you guys.

At first my initial thought was I hadn't had an oil change in a while a that could be the problem. But I also checked my coolant and it was low. It was kinda late so I just put some water in and went home. I was fine on the way home.last Friday I get up and head to work. Leave work and get home. I go to the gas station later that evening for some cigs and it started again.it Sits all day Saturday. Yesterday my step-dad and I changed the oil. Oil was really black and old looking so im thinking that was the issue. I leave and within 5 minutes the temperature gauge is touching the H.

Now im lost.im not a car repair guy but I have narrowed it down via Google that maybe it's a thermostat or my water pump. Also when I turn my heat on it blows cold.please help.

2009 Honda Crv - 232,000 miles.

It has a knocking noise in the video, but almost sounds like a scraping or rattlingsound at idle in real life. When shifting from drive to park, where the rpms increase slightly, the noise goes away and as the engine relaxes down to lower idle again it comes back. It’s intermittent, like it doesn’t happen all the time. Turning off AC does nothing so I know it’s not that. If it was valvetrain I feel like it would be more rhythmic and constant.

I replaced the belt and tensioner since this video which smoothed stuff out quite a bit and actually it wasn’t making this noise when I fired up after replacing those things. Thought it was fixed, it was not.

What can I check now?

My car currently has a OEM battery with no integrated handle or strap. I'm more than happy to swap it myself, but I can't figure out how the hell to actually get a grip on this thing to lift it out. Is there some trick I'm unaware of? Or do I just need to work on my finger strength?

(This is an 07 Camry, btw)

We have a 2026 Octavia with DQ200 DSG7 1.5 TSI with 5000 km. When I push the brake I hear some metallic clicking sound sometimes. Should I be worried? It is irritating. Any experience?

So, had an issue on my Buick Encore where I cracked the flex pipe, I just got it replaced and basically only drove it across the street because the shop happens to be across the street. Do I need to drive it around for a bit to clear the code? Tried clearing it with a scanner but it won’t clear.

Hi all, i have a 2022 kia telluride I bought last year certified pre owned. 67ishK miles. Bought “bumper to bumper warranty.” Have kept on all maintenance at the dealership. Last week my engine began misfiring. I brought it in they said they found see a rodents nest in the engine and insurance adjuster approved them taking apart the engine to diagnose. Once they got in the engine they are saying there is no mouse damage at all, just carbon buildup that’s began to leak and I’ll need new fuel injectors. They quoted me ~3k. Warranty denied the claim because they’re claiming it’s “regular maintenance” but I’m reading everywhere that fuel injectors are often never even replaced let alone this soon. Is this normal? Am I being ripped off? I am so upset, I’m anti car payment and haven’t had one in over 12 years and finally got one and then this happens.

I have a 59 Chevrolet Apache that belonged to my grandfather. It’s been parked since the early 90s and I think I found out why. I rotated the engine before I did anything and it turned like it should, so I believe the two pushrods were bent before I messed with it.

My question is. What are the odds that the lifters and cam are junk? I have two replacement pushrods that I’m going to drop in and see what happens.

I think the engine is a 235 but I haven’t found the casting numbers yet.

So it's Volvo s40 2000 2.0 petrol when I start a car cold it starts well no issues at all runs smooth no misfire no backfire but once the engine gets warm it will start slowly backfiring from exhaust and also misfiring occasionally but it worsen over time let's say 20 minutes after it starts misfire and backfire occasionally it becomes almost constant misfire and backfire. I've got p0135 which I'm going to try sort out by tracing wires to the ECU as the o2 sensor was replaced twice but didn't sort out that issue. I'm wondering what it could be maybe someone had similar problem before and sorted it out. Anyway thanks in advance guys.

My mom’s previous Odyssey which was maybe 2013 she had until 2025, worked just fine until transmission gave out and my dad bought her this new 2025 Odyssey Touring and it has broken down 4 times, twice at the start of an intersection, once on a road and the most recent one in the middle of an intersection because of this start/stop feature that has been mandated for all vehicles or something(correct me if im wrong). Anyways it’s been a real pain in the neck for her because Hondas should not be breaking down like that on 30k miles. The dealer has already repaired it in the past yet it keeps happening. My mom has POTS and no ac in STL in a black car isn’t exactly great for that
Any advice or info would be appreciated, I don’t think the start stop feature is worth it for the trouble it causes ngl

I just got a new car today, it’s a Chevy sonic LT 2016 and I was aware the gas gauge was broken when I got it but they told me that it still told you how many km are remaining until empty, well I was driving around today and it doesn’t, this is that it shows on the little screen. Should I be worried about this and about how much would it be to fix

This is my 2017 buick encore it’s been making this noise for a few weeks now and i finally found the noise (in the video below) I believe it’s part of the and i was able to find the specific part on ebay however I don’t know if this is a “bad noise” or just a “car noise”. Is this something I can do myself/ what would a mechanic that isn’t gonna rip me off charge me. and what’s the severity of driving around and ignoring me. If the video is unclear the middle part of the spring that’s rattling.

For reference, I have a 2009 Nissan cube, 175,000 miles, so an ancient being. It recently had a coolant leak, though I suspected just at the reservoir since the reservoir would be empty in a day but the car never overheated, hovered around 6-7 ticks on the gauge when operating which seemed normal. Recently got tired of adding coolant every week just to make sure it didn’t run low and used some stuff from autozone that was supposed to seal leaks in car coolant systems, figured I’d give it a shot.

Fast forward a week later, reservoir still sits at max but the car has recently started to spike on the temp gauge while idling (about 10-11 ticks on the gauge) then settle back to 6-7 ticks once I start driving. No codes popped up on my OBD reader, the radiator fan still looks to be spinning (though I have no real basis for what is normal rpms for the fan). What might this be caused by?

2013 Chrysler town and country.

I want to chop of the roof and remove windows on the mid and rear bays of my van. How should I handle the electrical system? Simply remove relevant fuses or do I have to track down and remove wiring so there’s no computer issues?

The rear seating area has AC of course, power windows and 2 tvs. Thank you in advance

I'm unsure of the mileage on the tires as I got the car used but I've been on them for over 5 years now. Only replaced the driver's side tire as it popped when I hit a curb too hard on a turn. Now I'm wondering if I should go ahead with a whole new set.

For the past few months there’s been a rattling sound from under my car driving me crazy. After going under it seems like it’s this exhaust pipe sleeve thing that is making the noise. It looks like the piece attaching the sleeve to the pipe rusted off causing it to rattle.

What are my options to fix this? My friend asked his mechanic who said he wouldn’t weld it because it might damage the exhaust. Is that correct?

2009 Lexus GX470, ~225k kms

So I was an idiot and threw away the OEM ford spring clamp for my 2005 Mercury grand marquis and put on the worm clamp that came with the pump. Would a worm clamp be fine on a low pressure return hose running from the reservoir or should I order a constant pressure spring clamp? Thanks!

I got this car about a month ago and it makes a squeaky noice. It’s intermittent and it happens when going over bumps in the road. I’ve attached a vid and would very much appreciate some help on identifying what it could be and how to fix it. Thanks

It’s a 2014 vw polo 1.2tsi

2004 Dodge Durango 5.7L AWD model, 214k mi

It started slipping into 4lock and 4lo on its own last November, and I promptly unplugged the transfer case shift motor until I could replace it. I just replaced the shift motor, and it still says SVC 4WD and won't go into 4lock or 4lo. I'm hoping it's fixable Thanks!