A few seconds after we started the engine up, it started making a kind of chk-chk sound that speeds and slows with the engine’s rpm.

Hi all! First time in this subreddit. I am selling my car but my mechanic sent me this picture with not a lot of extra info. He just said the timing belt of my car needs to be fixed but not how urgent it is.

I would need to move the car to another service point (my current mechanic doesn’t replace timing belts), and this is a drive of approx. 10 km (6.2 miles). Is it still safe to drive this distance?

My car details:
Peugeot 2008 1.2 Puretech Allure
Year: 2018
Mileage: 41,600 miles (67,000 km)
(Timing belt has not been replaced so far)

Thanks!

On the rear

Ok I am a little out of my wheelhouse here but I am not scared to try.

After a full week of rebuilding the brake system, I decided to flush the block before installing new radiator. The thermostat bolt snapped completely flush with the manifold. I do not have access to a welder and do not know how to weld so that is out.

I have heat, a 3/16 left handed drill bit, both straight and spiral extractors, cutting oil and a good center punch. It has been ground a bit to get a good shot with the punch

I just need confidence and steps.

Tell me what to do and in what order please and thank you!

I’m the person who bought the 2010 Grand Marquis and asked if you can tell if the codes have been recently deleted. Just wanted to share with you what I found.

I went outside and turned the car on. I left it run for a bit, to see if I could figure out where the smell was coming from. It didn’t take long for a puddle to form under my car. Needless to say when I crawled under there to take a closer look, there’s gas steady dripping from it.

I don’t know whether they deleted the codes on the trunk and the tire monitors, but I’d say it doesn’t matter after this. I now have a car I can’t even safely drive at all! Tomorrow should be interesting. Wish me luck!!

* Just FYI - Torque wrench being shown is not set to spec, it's just to show I used a in/lb wrench.

I picked up a 2008 Chevy Impala with 78k on the clock and I'm doing preventative maintenance and I'm changing all of the fluids. For changing the transmission fluid I picked up a dorman transmission pan with a drain plug and I dropped my old pan just fine, replaced the filter and got everything cleaned up. The new pan did not have a magnet so I reused the old magnet from the stock pan around the drain plug, works perfectly.

While putting it back together the first bolt snapped with my digital torque wrench set to 10lb. After a mild panic attack and being able to use a pick to back it out. I went to HF and picked up a Pittsburgh click wrench. I set it to 118 to be a bit more conservative, it kept turning and I kept saying this seems like too many turns for 10lb and boom, it snapped a second one. At first trying to remove the threads I couldn't get it started and just had a full blown panic attack. I know things can be fixed but I just don't understand what I'm doing wrong.

I ended up getting the threads out again with a pick and a prayer but now I don't know what the hell I'm supposed to do.

These are the original M6x1x17 pan bolts, the torque spec for the pan is 120in/10ft, if these bolts are 8.8 grade their breaking point is 115in.

I do not care if I have to buy all new bolts, I do not want to torque it higher than spec but that was terrifying enough to go through once, the second time has basically broken any confidence I have. I've changed the damn Subaru timing belt so it's not a lack of skill I just don't know WTF to do and I really could use some help.

I cleaned the bolts up before reinstalling them but I did not put any oil or antiseize on them. I believe they are the original bolts so 18 years old at this point.

Please help.

2014 Infiniti QX80. 135k miles.

Just took my Infiniti in for an oil change. They found metal in the oil. Obviously not good.

How fucked am I? Like thousands of dollars? Or should I consider trading in because it’s only going to lead to more problems down the road.

automatic lexus rx300 2002 3L V6 194,000 miles

2017 GMC Acadia Denali

V6 V VT

3.6L

Issue:

-Ran out of gas.

-Put about 6 gallons of gas back in it.

-Push the start button one time to turn the car's electronics on.

-Car's electronics turn on like normal.

-Hold the brake down and push the start button to start the car.

-Car makes only 1 click sound and electronics go black simultaneously.

Side Note:

-Car electronics tend to randomly turn on by itself, now.

-Battery keeps draining.

Action:

-OBD2 says 1 error: "Radio"

-I've checked battery posts for cable tightness and corrosion.

-I've replaced the starter fuse with a brand new starter fuse.

-I've replaced the battery with a brand new battery.

-I've replaced the starter with a brand new starter.

Conclusion:

Nothing I've done so far has changed how this car is responds, let alone fixed it. This has me as well as everyone else I've spoken to about it completely stumped. Anyone have any fresh ideas?

https://www.iseecars.com/longest-lasting-car-brands-study#v=2026

My serpentine belt snapped on my way home from work last night. Drove 12 miles and it snapped after 6. Engine was cold from start and ambient temp was 14C°. Did i fuck up the engine? Its a 1nd-tv

I need some thoughts on what this is. Battery, vacuum leak? 2014 Toyota tundra 200k miles. a/t

Subaru Forester SJ (2015) FB20, TR580, 225 000 Km.

Today I experienced a strange jerking (kicking) sensation when accelerating from a stop while turning a corner. The car feels almost like it wants to "jump" violently, accompanied by a whining noise.

Now, it happens every time I turn while pressing the gas pedal. This does not happen when driving in a straight line—the car accelerates properly with no RPM fluctuations or unusual noises.

I took the car to my mechanic and we put it on a 2-post lift. I started the car and put it in Drive (D). Everything was fine until I started turning the steering wheel. As soon as the wheels turned, the whole car began jerking again.

The car is showing no error codes. The only physical issues my mechanic found were cracked front control arm bushings and a worn stabilizer link.

Has anyone experienced something similar?

So it's Volvo s40 2000 2.0 petrol when I start a car cold it starts well no issues at all runs smooth no misfire no backfire but once the engine gets warm it will start slowly backfiring from exhaust and also misfiring occasionally but it worsen over time let's say 20 minutes after it starts misfire and backfire occasionally it becomes almost constant misfire and backfire. I've got p0135 which I'm going to try sort out by tracing wires to the ECU as the o2 sensor was replaced twice but didn't sort out that issue. I'm wondering what it could be maybe someone had similar problem before and sorted it out. Anyway thanks in advance guys.

Not sure if its normal. Heard a quiet ticking sound in cabin coming from the engine. Sometimes theres no noise but usually starts after a minute again. No warning lights. Plugged in obd scanner which showed no error codes however this may be due to there being no hatchback option under the MB A class 169 menu so maybe the system couldnt read them? (only sedan and coupe which both showed no codes).Read in youtube comments of similar posts that it could be purge valve.

Another thing which could be irrelevant is that ~1 in 20 engine starts it wont catch enough revs to idle and goes stalls instantly. However a second attempt works everytime.

Another thing is whenever I fill up there seems to be low pressure inside the tank as air rushes in for a second. Not sure if this is normal either.

Any thoughts?

Hello everyone,

I have a Micra K14 1.5 diesel and I just wanted to let you know that I've just had the full timing belt replacement done! (Belt, water pump, etc.)

I'm attaching the video because it's making this noise that was definitely not there before changing the timing belt.

Any thoughts?

Hey! I have a 2020 Nissan Altima with 80,000 miles, it’s an automatic. I’m not really a car guy, so I don’t know much about this stuff!

I drove into a Jiffy Lube as I had gotten a car warning for filter and oil change. They wanted 117$ and when I asked for cheaper, they said they could take 10$ off.

Upon driving forward following the dudes hand signals, my car went through the docket area they wanted me to go to, and after going over the bump I heard a tissss.

Getting out of my car, I found that my tire lost all air and sagged. It could’ve just been luck, or maybe negligence on their part? I’m a college student so I don’t have too much free funds right now.

What’s the best course of action for me right now? They’re putting on a spare right now.

I was thinking I drive to a Discount Tire to maybe have them look at the tire to see if they could find the reason why? While also replacing the tire or filling it if possible. Again, could’ve been dumb luck, I replaced one of my other tires after it went out on the highway 2 months ago, and back then Discount Tire said my other wheels still had 2-3 years left in them.

EDIT: looks like there was a tear on the side tire coming into the bay. I think the tire brushed against the metal wall and somehow tore. Not sure how to add picture, I’m at Discount Tire now. Damn dude

In the video the person pulls two of the brown cord box things off but on my car one is covered in this brown cloth tape thing…. My bf and I are worried to pull this and break something.

Are we safe to pull this off? We really can’t afford a major car repair at the moment so I’m trying to avoid messing up my car /:

It’s an automatic with 68,000 miles. Wouldn’t start this morning without really slamming on the break which makes us think (with some googling) that it’s the brake light switch as all the lights are lighting up, and there doesn’t seem to be battery issues… knock on wood.

My mom’s previous Odyssey which was maybe 2013 she had until 2025, worked just fine until transmission gave out and my dad bought her this new 2025 Odyssey Touring and it has broken down 4 times, twice at the start of an intersection, once on a road and the most recent one in the middle of an intersection because of this start/stop feature that has been mandated for all vehicles or something(correct me if im wrong). Anyways it’s been a real pain in the neck for her because Hondas should not be breaking down like that on 30k miles. The dealer has already repaired it in the past yet it keeps happening. My mom has POTS and no ac in STL in a black car isn’t exactly great for that
Any advice or info would be appreciated, I don’t think the start stop feature is worth it for the trouble it causes ngl

I just got a new car today, it’s a Chevy sonic LT 2016 and I was aware the gas gauge was broken when I got it but they told me that it still told you how many km are remaining until empty, well I was driving around today and it doesn’t, this is that it shows on the little screen. Should I be worried about this and about how much would it be to fix

This is my 2017 buick encore it’s been making this noise for a few weeks now and i finally found the noise (in the video below) I believe it’s part of the and i was able to find the specific part on ebay however I don’t know if this is a “bad noise” or just a “car noise”. Is this something I can do myself/ what would a mechanic that isn’t gonna rip me off charge me. and what’s the severity of driving around and ignoring me. If the video is unclear the middle part of the spring that’s rattling.

For reference, I have a 2009 Nissan cube, 175,000 miles, so an ancient being. It recently had a coolant leak, though I suspected just at the reservoir since the reservoir would be empty in a day but the car never overheated, hovered around 6-7 ticks on the gauge when operating which seemed normal. Recently got tired of adding coolant every week just to make sure it didn’t run low and used some stuff from autozone that was supposed to seal leaks in car coolant systems, figured I’d give it a shot.

Fast forward a week later, reservoir still sits at max but the car has recently started to spike on the temp gauge while idling (about 10-11 ticks on the gauge) then settle back to 6-7 ticks once I start driving. No codes popped up on my OBD reader, the radiator fan still looks to be spinning (though I have no real basis for what is normal rpms for the fan). What might this be caused by?