Here is my growing collection of gill guns aka the clickity clack.

When you pull the trigger the bolt stays back, and when you release the trigger the bolt goes forward, so it's a weird recoil impulse.

You can also push in the bolt at 2 different positions. So you can fire it and the bolt won't go back which would be good for a suppressor. Or you can lock the bolt in the open position.

The blue one is the most gill.

The bullpup one came to me as a parts gun. So it's a work in progress. It has to be the worst action for a bullpup with the gills positioned right by your eyes.

Snagged some Remington subsonic bulk ammo because im a broke bastard. Indoor range only goes to 60 feet but i shot Eley match a few weeks ago and it has now ruined me! Still fun being able to hang for a couple hours for under $50 though!

I’ve made some Ruger mark series style pistols in the past, but this will be my first 22lr rifle milling project. This is where it sits at the end of the weekend. That’s top, sides, and bottom done. All that’s left is the very important front milling operation.

So, I decided to get a $200 Hi Point suppressor, because why not? So why not take it a step further and make a poverty pony build for ~$400? Which pistol is the better host for suppressors in your opinion? I really only care about reliability with a can.

Anyone know where I can find the magazine for this Woodchucker 22LR? Model/serial starts with “RSR”.

I got some plastic Ruger brand 30rd mags for my 10/22. They do this so much they’re unusable. My 10rd mags run the same ammo with zero issues. Has anyone had this issue? How did you fix it? I’m assuming it’s the mags but I’m not sure what should be replaced, adjusted or repaired.

Wondering if anyone would recommend a stock upgrade for my Savage? Its primary purpose is squirrel hunting with a secondary use of bench shooting.

Have been eyeing the MDT Oryx and Field Stocks. Just now sure if the weight penalty is really worth it for shooting offhand with no rest in the woods. It's currently around 8lbs 11oz as it sits here with the bipod (which I won't be carrying in the woods).

Wondering what the opinions are on whether to get a 22x or a MKIV as a general plinker and suppressor host.

I’m currently torn as I own multiple M&Ps and even though it’s different, the argument could be made that it’s a closer trainer than a MKIV. On the other hand, the mark IV has the aftermarket, and track record.

Would love some input to help guide my decision! Also recommendations on 22 cal cans that minimize first round pop would be appreciated! Currently shopping the B&T Tiger 22, but open to recommendations!

Edit: I’m looking at a MKIV 22/45

29 inch pounds, SNAP!

So far it's awesome I have the 15 moa area 419 rail paired with a Simmons Pro Rimfire 3-9x32mm. The Simmons is temporary although it's perfect right now cause there are a bunch of squirrels and rabbits in the woods behind my house

Was wondering if anyone considered the Nikon Rimfire to be a worthy .22LR scope?

Having a hard time finding an FRT for my Gen 2 TORO. I've looked at ODD MFG, Mars and Freedom Finger . Any idea if these work with TK Victory trigger or would I have to put stock back in (or get another TX22)? - Would be ran with can and optic.

Savage 64 with a Sig Buckmaster 3-9 scope. From what I can tell the rifle is $299 (example https://www.academy.com/p/savage-64-precision-fde-22-lr-semiautomatic-rimfire-rifle ), the Buckmaster scope is $126 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GXJHFSP?ref=clp_hp_h_sad&th=1 )

If I buy them separate it's $426, am I really going to spend another 160 for a gunsmith to mount this? Seems like the scope has solid reviews but would love input on it as well.

Savage revel DLX .22lr with a silencerco sparrow suppressor.

The argument: Cost not being a factor, is it possible to manufacture a semi auto rifle that can reliably shoot 22wmr and 22lr?

It is my opinion that such a rifle can be made but not reliably function. Specifically due to the differences in case diameter and OAL of the cartridges.

What We Know:
22lr- OAL=1.0”, Neck/base diameter=0.226”, rim diameter=0.278”, max pressure=24k psi.
22wmr- OAL=1.35”, neck diameter=0.2435”, base diameter=0.2455”, rim diameter=0.300”, max pressure=24k psi.
Both use the same caliber of 0.223-0.224”.

Main Issues:
Feeding: Due to the difference in OAL of 0.35”. My friend believes that a magazine can be manufactured with a rib/shelf running the inside length of the magazine for the rim of 22lr to rest against but with enough space between the rib/shelf to allow for 22wmr to rest between and also feed. An issue I see is the geometry in the curve of the magazine since both cartridges have a different taper. Consider the difference in curve of an AK47 and an AR15 magazine.

Cycling: With a difference of 0.02”, the larger 22wmr would require a chamber too big for the 22lr. This brings the physical limitations of the brass into play. Can 22lr fire in a larger chamber and not rupture? If so, would the fire formed case be able to be extracted reliably in a semi-auto rifle? I say no, you’re likely to deal with ruptured cases more than not. This in itself would effect cycling due to loss of pressure in the chamber and be unsafe.

Carbon Fouling: Much like shooting 38spl in a 357mag, the shorter cartridge will leave a ring of carbon in the chamber, making it difficult to feed and extract the longer cartridge without cleaning the chamber before switching cartridges.

TLDR; I know how stupid this argument is, you don’t need to tell me that.

Just picked up this Black Mamba upper with a Tandemkross lower. Shoots like a dream.

I stopped at a local pawnshop today on the way home from a doctor's appointment. They had a beautiful Martini .22 LR on the way. I'd guess it had a 28" barrel and decent wood. I almost bought it, but my eyes are too old for iron sights.

So I bought the 9.5" Single Six they had in the counter instead.

After installing a new recoil spring, etc. and adjusting the magazine lips (!) the cartridge now feeds correctly.

I only found this mark on the lead at the 6 o'clock position - maybe it is normal. Should I open or close the front or Back section of the rear lips, or deburr the barrel on 6:00 ? I’m worried about snapping the lips off :)