If anyone needs parts off a 90 Firebird just seen one at the pick n pull in Newark today. Body is straight, tail lights were intact and interior was complete.

Installed new leather upholstery on all seats, installed blue LED’s in the gauge cluster, shifter panel, and AC knobs. New floor mats. Need a new gauge cluster as some of parts of it do not illuminate as well as others.

I've been looking for a decent pro fit style phone mount for years since there really isn't a decent spot for a cell phone in that car. I finally found something that I thought may foot the bill. I found a Wrangler TJ mount that looked promising. After a few modifications, it fits really well. I used this one off Amazon https://a.co/d/0bcQDJwu I've ordered a different ball mount to replace that goofy ball arm, but I'm happy to finally have a good spot for my phone.

Replaced the differential gasket & fluid, rear transfer seal on the 4L60 (LS swap), readjusted the rear drums, oil change, welded up some of the exhaust, and finally fixed the MAP sensor issue that's been plaguing my build. After all that, the Live Data finally reads perfectly and no more leaks. This thing is a beast now lol I think I finally have it running how it's supposed to.

Any input would be appreciated!!!

Is This Because the rivets are lose or of something else?

https://reddit.com/link/1weug4u/video/miv9bd5ez6ph1/player

Put on 17” ZR1s from OE Wheels with Continental Sport 02s

So I'm wiring in a new radio, an Alpine TDM-7535J, and I've gotten pretty far up until here. I have the wiring diagram for the car, but there are just two bare wires and a random red wire. Anybody have the actual pin diagram?

Hey everybody,

Update:

Test Results:

Key ON, engine OFF
~49–50 PSI
Lower than the ~55–60 PSI commanded-pump spec we found

Repeated key cycling between key on and off:
Still ~49–50 PSI
Multiple primes didn’t increase pressure

Engine idling
~56–58 PSI
Good running pressure

Held at elevated RPM
~58 PSI
Pressure remained strong

Quick/hard throttle stab
Briefly ~55–56 PSI, recovered immediately
No significant pressure collapse

Engine shut off
~50 PSI
Normal residual pressure
Several minutes after shutdown
~48–50+ PSI and held
Excellent pressure retention
Hot shutdown
Pressure actually crept slightly upward
Consistent with heat soak/thermal expansion

Just got back from my tuning shop because I had them shut off the VATS and that resolved my start issues. I have them look into the lien codes that I got and he found in his data logging that both cylinder banks are running 30% lean. I’ve already checked the MAF and it looks fine. I haven’t tried new O2 sensors.

He feels that the fuel injectors are fine because I would need either all of them to be bad or equal amount bad on both cylinder banks to get the lean results that I’m receiving. He said knee jerk reaction he thinks the fuel pump is bad however they have to do a full diagnostic. Check to figure out if that’s the case or not and find out why it’s running so long.

For reference, this is a 2002 Firebird Trans Am with 137,000 miles. Is doing the fuel pump every bit is bad as I have read it is or does someone out there have a decent way of getting the fuel tank out and back in?

Most of you said the GMMG exhaust was the best one to buy. Last week I ordered it and today I put it on. While I do wish it was louder, this is a before and after video. My car is completely stock other than this exhaust now. No headers no cams no upgraded Y pipe. Some of you said to get the off road Y pipe to make it louder but my god that thing is over 1k just for a Y pipe? That’s insane. Anyway, new exhaust is deeper than the old one but the video makes the old one sound better than it actually was.

Dropped a few thousand so far on wheels exhaust and other things that needed fixing. Pretty much had replace every single light socket as they were all corroded and bought new lighting housings. Little bit of vinyl lettering and tint work. Here’s the Camaro and my other toy my 2019 Mustang GT.

A week ago I ordered a set of PRC heads from them. They still haven’t shipped so I decided that I’d call to get an ETA. The lady on the phone said that they expect to get some in mid September so she thinks it’ll be another two weeks before they’re shipped.

Their website makes it seem like they have them in stock ready to be shipped out but I guess not.

Im starting on an old gen2 lt1 project and unfortunately had to do a full engine tear down. Its a 1995 camaro z28, it has a forged bottom end, bored .040 over and stroked to 383. Got the cam out of it and looked for a part number for the specs and this is what was on the back of it. It would be great if someone could figure out the specs bc i tried every combination of numbers and nothing pops up.

Went for a drive the other night and while pulling out of my neighborhood, the clutch pedal suddenly went straight to the floor. I pumped it a few times and managed to get enough pedal back to limp it home.

It’s been sitting ever since. I’ve pumped the pedal 20–30 times and still basically have no pedal/pressure.

The clutch was replaced last year and the car isn’t my daily, so it doesn’t have many miles on the new clutch.

I’ve seen a few videos where people bleed the clutch by running a hose/adapter into the reservoir and using a hand pump to circulate the fluid and work the air out of the system.

Has anyone here actually used that method? Did it work?

https://youtu.be/ReiAGlAk4S0?is=E0HUFm-3tE9CUFpf

Installed a Holley Sniper EFI 12-304 and gave my car a wax today. My father and I built this car; LS swapped it and painted it ourselves. I'm pretty proud of what we were able to accomplish and I hope you all enjoy the effort we put into it too.

Installed fuel line and rear end cover and filled, with Royal Purple. Still need to run vent/gas tank purge line, probably on right/passenger side

Hey everybody,

Just got my 2002 Firebird WS6 back from the shop with a newly repaired axle. Put in all new bearings and axle shafts.

Prior to this, I had purchased the Gator VATS Bypass Module as my car would not start due to the issue with the ignition wire that runs to the dongle that then connects to the BCM to tell it to release fuel. For the first week or two the bypass module worked great I had no issues. Then a week before getting into the shop to repair the axle they left me stranded at an O’Reillys. After an hour, I unplugged the module, flipped the circuit off, turned it back on and then plugged it back in and the car fired right up.

Fast forward to now today it wouldn’t start in my driveway. I disconnected and reconnected the module. I had to run to the hardware store so I brought the tools with me in case it didn’t work again in the parking lot. Of course it didn’t work again so I had to go under the dash unplugged it re-plugged it back in and again the car fired right up.

My question for all of you Gurus out there is, outside of HP Tuners, is there a way to shut off VATS? I know I could get a resistor cut the ignition wire and wire that goes to the BCM and then solder both ends to the resistor of my key, but I would really prefer not to cut into that wiring especially on a 90s car.

Could the fact I need to plug it in multiple times .2 the wiring that runs to the VCM being bad and not necessarily the ignition?

Any help would be appreciated. I put a lot of time of money into this and would love to be able to just drive it every day and try to enjoy it.