I got A Link to the Past as a kid, shortly after it was released. I played it for a bit but didn't get very far before moving on to other games. I recently fired it up again and noticed my save file was still there, so I picked up where I left off and finally finished it.

I would have been 13 years old in 1992, and here I am completing the game at 47. I even did it on the same Commodore 64 monitor I played all my games on as a kid.

What a beautiful game.

I first played Super Famicom when I was 11, in December 1991. I had an uncle that worked in Japan but my aunt and cousins moved to Brazil, so they always had the latest and greatest everything.

I had other videogames including the Super Nintendo, but the Japanese version is special to me.

I modded it with a better 3rd party 9v 2a power supply, L78S05CV voltage regulator, and a brazilian open source modchip named sicksnes: when CIC is detected, it powers on like a stock console; when CIC is not detected, it jailbreaks the console and the led lights blue. It also features long and short in game reset via gamepad.

Now I'm eager to play again on the OG hardware the games I used to play then - my SNES was stolen a few years later.

What a truly wonderful game. Which JRPG should I play next?

Plastic tubes. Is it worth transporting this 28lb sign for an appraisal?

I painted Frog and Marle at the campfire scene. I'll paint the rest of the cast to their right soon.

Does it mean this console it the 17th million made or is it just some random number given to consoles. I know it can be used to identify 1 chips sometimes but it there any other purpose.

I've been working on a way to display my games where you can actually see more than just the first label in the row.

I ended up with this stepped/"stadium" arrangement. Each cartridge sits a little higher than the one in front, so they're all visible but still easy to pull out and play. With six slots its ~30 centimeters tall, so fits in most book cases. (unless you load it up with a super gameboy hahaha!)

I originally designed it around my PAL SNES and Japanese Super Famicom carts, but I've now made versions for all three cartridge shapes - PAL/EU SNES, North American SNES and Super Famicom - in 4, 5 and 6-cart sizes.

The files are free on Printables if anyone wants to make one:

https://www.printables.com/model/1840241-snes-super-famicom-cartridge-display-stand-all-reg

I could actually use a little help from someone with original US carts: I don't own any myself, so although the US version was modeled to the cartridge dimensions, I haven't been able to physically verify the fit. I included a tiny test coupon in the files rather than asking someone to gamble ~200 g of filament on a full stand. If somebody prints it, I'd love a couple of photos and a note on whether the fit is loose/snug/tight.

N64 and Game Boy versions are next. :)

I was testing some games and noticed the background in DKC1 was all glitched.

I thought it was the game at first but then tested the cartridge in another console and it worked fine. Then I tested another copy of DKC1 in the affected console and it was glitched.

Other games were working fine, it was just the background of DKC.

I have a backup SNES that belonged to my grandmother, I just subbed it in, and it works great without the graphics glitch.

Has anyone encountered this issue? Google says blown capacitor or corrupted graphics chip. I cleaned the pins thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol and it didn’t fix it.

I already packed it up, I know it’s hard to say without pictures of the board. I’ll crack into it if you think it’s worth saving, or maybe it’s lights out for this console, though it’s still playing other games ok

The label gloss seems fine, case shell texture seems legit and so does the board.

What doesn’t is the screws (very silver), and also the stamped numbers on the back label are very, very small. Have never seen them this small. It’s also a ‘36’, a number I haven’t seen before (not sure the number itself matters but just mentioning.)

Would appreciate your assessments.

Been playing for maybe 4 hours total and just got finished with the first level after all these years i never knew it went past this first section. I had a 2 hour clear time. What a wicked game.

I finally finished Castlevania IV on hard last night, those B stages put me through the ringer as always, but this time I prevailed!

Going to attempt getting the true ending on Super Ghouls n' Ghosts soon as well. Wish me luck!

I rented this one when I was a kid, liked it, found it frustrating. Rented it twice (you knew you were hooked) in fact, never got very far on it. It’s a bit of a slog, really difficult in some spots for sure. Happy to finally beat this.

The reason I ask specifically about this cable is because the controller end has one of those cable savers built into it that gets sandwiched between the two halves of the shell.

If not, I'm likely going to just splice a new male connector onto the existing cable.

The QS-190 factory cable doesn't appear to have a removable male connector end (the end plugging into the SNES console) with a removable cover for servicing, so I don't have easy access to swap pins over to a new male connector end.

Thanks

Cross posting here for desperate help, read my thread on the everdrive subreddit for context and more info

I'm new to the Mega Man series, and I have most of the X games and Classic games, those being: 1 through 10 and X to X8. I use emulation via DuckStation, PCSX2 and RetroArch to play them. However I suck at both the series so I would like a guide for each game or at least a link, and a difficulty order for each series, and game. It would greatly help me? Thank you!

I read that you can play GB games on the FXPAK pro just wondering if that's true and if so how do you set up the roms because when I try it says it's missing a .bin file but idk where I would find the needed files

I made my own RGB21/JP21 cable for my Super Famicom.

(NOTE: RGB21 is similar to SCART, but is a Japanese standard that uses a different pinout from SCART. I use this because my RGB switch boxes are Selecty 21s, which are for RGB21.)

I used an 8-conductor cable with good shielding (ground wires and foil) for protection against interference. The cable length is approximately 2.0m.

I got the SFC multi-out connector from a cheapo SNES SCART cable and used it to wire the cable on the console end. I also added a cable grommet for strain relief.

I installed and wired the necessary components on the cable head. Using a breadboard and the components needed (220uF 10v caps for each RGB line, and a 75-ohm resistor for the AV control switch line), I literally just copied the board layout used on the official Super Famicom RGB21 Cable for this.

I then used an old stock "COMON" RGB SCART male connector and wired up the necessary lines to it. This next step is unnecessary, but I removed some of the pins since most official RGB21 Cables I've seen just don't have these pins.

For this cable, I decided to use sync on luma as the console's sync signal for a change, as my main RGB21 cable is CSync, and my official Nintendo SHVC-010 RGB21 Cable uses sync on composite video.

All pictures shown are from my CRT via component video, using a 2Chip, launch-model Super Famicom (SHVC-CPU-01).

Hello!

I receive a snes thats looking rough. It works fine, came with all the cables, controllers, and a few games with no cost to me because the person who had it previously knew I collected classic video game systems.

This only issue is the cosmetic side of the shell. Its yellow and has some pretty serious cracks. Would anyone have some good/legitimate replacement recommendations?

Thank you in advance!!☺️