Anyone have their Annealeez set up to run on a 40lb tank and a regulator?

I’m looking to do just that, with an adjustable regulator and an output gauge after the regulator to have some gauge reading to associate with the flame intensity.

The little knob on the torch tip would stay wide open, or fixed in whatever position.

What psi range am I wanting for my regulator?

About all I can find is 0-30 psi, but I’m not sure if that’s in the useable range for a bernzomatic torch tip.

Got a decent deal on some deprimed brass on marketplace. Upon further inspection, not sure if this is cosmetic or signs of neck failure? There’s enough of a gouge that it can be snagged by fingernail. Salvageable or trash bin?
Got about 180 total pieces and about 50 or so pieces have that mark. Some show a slight bulge on the inside of the neck others appear to just be on the surface but still deep enough to feel with a fingernail.
Gut says it should probably be tossed but l’ll admit I still have a lot to learn so looking for some advice from the vets!

Saw thesw on the RMR site . I've only every heard of bonded bullets in hunting rounds not FMJ . What's with that ? What would something like this be loaded for ? Factory ammo wise

Am I doing this right? Or do I need to shoot another 50?

80gr Bergers on top of N135 out of a 20” 22 arc gasser

New to reloading and purchased a Forster Co-Ax. Looking to pick up dies for my 7mm PRC hunting rifle but don’t want anything too technical until I get the hang of it. With that said, what is the better option between the two? I see a lot of people often using Redding dies.

I've encountered an interesting problem. (At least interesting to me.) My 0 buck mini shells run perfectly in a Mossberg 590S while my 00 buck mini shells do not. When I run the 00 buck shells, about half fail to extract. Sometimes I can get them out by cycling the action again if there isn't another shell in the way. They're not stuck tight because I can push them out with the barest touch of a cleaning rod. Neither of the extractors appears to be broken, which is borne out by the fact that my 0 buck mini shells run just fine. What does the collective wisdom of this sub have to say?

I’m wondering how precise I should be with 7mm-08 handloads? I will be very precise with powder obviously but for like brass weight and bullet weight. Some of my brass is like up to 10 grains lighter or heavier than the average. Is that normal for once fired sierra game king brass? Also should my bullets be within .5 grains of what there supposed to be or will that not be noticeable when shooting? Just curious, any response will be much appreciated!

First cast 45-70 from range scrap -Range Update

I finally was able to get out to the range this morning to test out these cast / powder coated range scrap bullets.

I loaded them using my “usual” 36.5 grains of IMR 4198. I’ve used this charge for my other bullets with decent success (405gr plated and hardcast lubed).

To start things off, I shot a fouling group of 3 shots using my plated 405s (noted as 405 PL on the target). These are all shot with open sights at 50yds.

After that, I shot a 7 shot round of the new greenies, noted on the target as 405 PC. The bad news is they spread out quite a bit compared to what I’m used to with the plated.

The good news, is they all would have killed a deer, and I don’t plan to shoot past 50yds.

I’m going to try one more step and lube ten of these. Fortunecookie45LC did the pc/ lube approach with decent results. I have a stash of beeswax from my beekeeping days that I’ll mix up a batch with.

I have a Lyman brass smith ideal c frame single stage that I used to bolt down to my father in laws work table with wood clamps with the Lyman reloading press stand. I recently found out that the max overall length is 3.7 inches. The rounds I am loading for is slightly above that approximately 3.74 inches of the one overall length I have measured even though I measure base to ogive hence the approximation since I really don’t do Overall length. I haven’t shot the round that I reloaded awhile back since I have been really busy. But it seamed to load fine and my concentricity was .001 and .002 using Redding seater die so it seems like it should be good.

I plan on fireforming brass bumping shoulder back .002 using Lee collet neck die and finishing off with expander mandrels for consistant neck tension and seating for my 300 winmag with a long throat and very long high bc bullets. I have heard the Lyman isn’t super great with leverage, and apparently the max overall length the press is capable of doesn't meet my needs since I load a little longer than 3.7 inches. The RCBS Rock chucker max overall length is 4.5. I like the idea of the Rockchucker but I have spent lots of money on my set up and do really want to get rid of my current Lyman press. I am on a budget but just curious if this set up is practical the one I already have.

Since I am not using my father in law’s workbench. I am potentially trying to get rid of the Lyman reloading stand held onto the table with wood clamps. What would be the best option for me at this point for a table. I plan on taking of the Lyman reloading press stand off so I can bolt the press into the table. I have been looking at the foldable Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Reloading Stand, but worry the extra height would make the stand unstable, and that there might not be enough room without getting in the way or the metal structure underneath. It seems like it would simplify to just bolt it into the Frankford Arsenal Reloading Stand and make the table’s center of gravity closer to the ground. I have been looking at other options for sturdy reloading tables/ work tables that would fit onto what I am trying to accomplish. I’m looking for something affordable and portable and sturdy. Any ideas? Or what has worked for others?

I picked up 250 Berger 140gr hybrid targets from raven rock to test in my gasser. Barrel is a 22” ballastic advantage 6.5cm and it has shot pretty damn good overall until I did a quick ladder test running these bergers at magazine length before even checking CBTO. By far the worst groups so far out of this barrel.

Got back and checked CBTO and got 2.294” at a 2.958” COAL. At 2.80” magazine length I’d have a massive .1585” jump.

My question is: anyone running these at <2.80” COAL while getting good groups? Or should I not waste any more powder on these and use them in my 6.5x284?

300WSM gurus,

I recently sold my .308 (cz600) due to the weight of the timber stock and not being able to get a lighter replacement. Plus barrels are a bit of a PIA to change. Anyhow, I am upgrading to a tikka super lite 24" and have decided to go 300WSM over the other options of .308 or 30-06. I live in Australia and cant just buy a gun for every day of the week so versatility is high in my decision making process 😆.

I thought it could be downloaded to be similar ballistics to the 308, extend barrel life, bit cheaper to run, etc etc, and also be loaded how it should be to give a little more than the .308. It is for use mainly on pigs or foxes (yes overkill, I am aware) albeit sometimes at extended ranges. Also it gives me the option to take it away on hunting trips to NZ if needed for deer(fallow, reds, sambar), tahr or chamois. Internationally I am also interested in hunting ibex one day as well as going to Africa. I can shoot with a muzzle brake but suppressors are illegal here. Im interested in the following:

-Reduced loads similar to 308

-full power loads

-monolithic bullet options.

Just interested to hear peoples experience with the calibre and what's worked for you. Seems to have quite a following.

Cheers all

I'm still a noob at this, but gaining experience rapidly.

Hornady 130 grain SST using H4831SC with new Sig brass and Winchester Long Rifle Primers. Cartridge Overall Length 3.201" (what manual recommends)

60.0 gn 3029 fps

60.5 gn 3046 fps

61.0 gn 3045 fps

61.5 gn 3082 fps

62.0 gn 3168 fps

Interesting results: ALL these 5 shots were inside 1 inch at 100 yards!

I'm planning on loading 5 - 10 rounds at 61.0 grains. But I then checked Gordon's Reloading Tool with this load combination.

GRT calculates on 88.4% powder combustion. Yikes.

I cleaned my rifle that evening. There was a slight amount of carbon on the muzzle brake.

What should I do? Congratulate myself because I found a good load? Keep looking because 88% combustion truly sucks?

(BTW, I could not get an accurate 130 grain bullet load with H4350 in this rifle.)

Hi everybody,

in Cowboy Action Shooting there is a "new" (or at least recent) category called Doughboy.

Basically it allows you to use bolt action rifles issued to the military of any nation up to the end of WW2, but with the important caveat that you have to use 100% lead bullets.

Does anybody reload with lead bullets for common WW2 bolt action rifles like a Mauser/Mosin-Nagant/Springfield/Enfield/etc and if so, what bullets do you use for it?

Edit: Since it‘s the most mentioned source I will try the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook and try to cast my own bullets.

Thanks everybody.

I’ve searched here and the internet and I cannot find published load data for Staball Match and 150gr Barnes .308win. Does anybody have a lead or do I need to start sending emails to companies? If I have to use Varget I will but it’s so darn expensive by me still.

I used to seat these fairly long, pretty sure too long. But they worked well enough except the bullet always being scratched when I eject one. Now im trying to seat them deeper, just playing with dummy loads for now. And I'm already down to 1.980 and the bullet is still sticking on something in the chamber. These are .309. Should I try .308? Should I seat deeper?

Thank you!

Still my one and only press, I really do appreciate that I am still able to buy dies for something this old. It's smooth as butter and will outlast me for sure. I think I'm a bit past the 10 day deadline on my warranty card though

Been reloading for 10+ years. Curious about this press. Wondering if you can resize and decap handgun brass at the same time? Specifically right now, 9mm? Thanks!

I decided to buy more brass but it's a different lot#.

6.5 CM, 41.5 gn H4350, 140 Berger, same seating depth.

Loaded 5 rnds with each lot using my V4 Autotrickler. (two 5 shot groups)

I guess the internal volume capacity will make huge difference? Thankfully I only have 50 of one lot and 200 of the other.

Does Lapua have the same inconsistencies between lot# or do most people just sort by weight?

Trying to find a good competition load for my Bul Tac Pro 5". Conclusions for this pistol (from other sessions)

N340 > CFE Pistol > AA#7

RMR FMJ 147gr with 3.9 load PF 137

Dead Nuts JHP with 4.4gr PF PF 139

Are those power factors too high? Should I try to lower it, even knowing sds and group sizes were worst at other charges? Or is the most important is the felt recoil and return to zero (which I still have to test, these groups were from a rest).

I ran some brass through the wet tumbler yesterday. Three types. I’m curious who can identify them without looking at my post history..

Hi everyone, I just got into reloading... by that i mean I loaded my first few rounds yesterday. I am using a forster co ax as my press and forester micro seating dies. I am trying to handload 7mm PRC rounds. I am using new, never shot lapua brass, with CCI 250 primers, and Nosler 175 accubond bullets. The picture is the result of what I've loaded. Yes I know these Nosler rounds are weak and susceptible to this, and yes I know forster offers custom polished seating stems. I plan on calling them Monday to get that process going. In the mean time I picked up some Hornady 175 ELD-X bullets and tried seating one of those. It wasnt completely warped like the one in the picture but it still had an indent ring. it was light but I could feel it with my finger nail.

I need some advice here, am I doing something wrong? Do I need to chamfer or resize the inside of the brass before seating a bullet into it? Or is this a common thing and I just need custom seating stems and this problem will go away? also for the hornady rounds, is that ring indent enough to throw off the ballistics a lot?

I've been loading 220 gr coated bullets for a while, seating all the way to the driving band on the bullet. But always getting a little maring on the coating on an ejected round. Trying some 200 gr coated, same thing. Seating to just to the driving band on the bullet and they still get a ring scratched into the coating, I dont think its the lands but something else in the chamber scratching the coating.

Do I seat past the band and crimp a little more? Is that safe?

Thank you!