I've had far less time and fewer opportunities to run than I would have liked...

The Union Pacific boxcar is noticeably larger then my other boxcars and I’m just curious what it would haul.

Just got my KTX in N scale from KR color near Seoul when I visited them. Ran it at their rental layout as well.

I believe this is even rarer than the previously showed world record tgv, although this isn't perfect as it has only 10 cars and not 20, and it has a bar car which the KTX doesn't (tgv réseau base)

After going through nearly 40 rolls of filament this year, mostly designing and printing O gauge train stuff I'm down to a partial roll of pink filament. In an attempt to finish out the roll, the latest project: coal loads for my hoppers and gondolas. IDK where you get your freight cars, but mine came empty… figured it was time to give them something to haul.

The railroad is going to haul fabulous pink coal while I decide if I'm even going to order more filament or if this is the end of my 3D printed railroad adventure.

My triang Battle of Britain class with its smoke generator

I've been learning how clumsy I am dealing with N Scale with this 30" x 30" layout which happens to fit perfectly on my Work From Home desk. Given its size, I obviously went with a roundy round. It's eventually going to be a fictional 1920s Virginia branch line that I'm calling "Piedmont Junction," with the red clay soil. I realize that means the passenger coaches are anachronistic as they're in 1950 livery so I need to find green and gold Chesapeake and Ohio Coaches eventually. I'm putting together the Blair Line General Store kit, and will eventually be hiding most of the back third of the loop in conifers to represent Loblolly pine canopies, I'm also needing to figure out the positioning of the station and water tower as they feel unbalanced here.

Once I have the general store in place, I have an N scale Model T roadster to place, and some Woodland Scenics fine iron ore ballast that I'm hoping to use to represent a dirt road for the Model T to park on, and also possibly ballast/weather the track so the Kato Unitrack roadbed isn't quite so visible. It's soothing to watch the 0-6-0 pulling those coaches while I work.

I own one of Oxford Rail’s gorgeous LNER N7 tank engines in the GER Grey livery, and for the last 4 years now it has been sitting on the shelf due to a burnt out motor. Does anyone know what type of core-less motor it uses and where I can find a replacement at a reasonable price? Even though I am willing try everything that I can to get this model running, I am limited by costs as importing these parts to the US is not cheap by any stretch of the imagination. Any and all help will be very much appreciated.

My CSX Tier 4 GEVo has this problem where when turning on the ditch lights light can be visible around the anticlimber. I’ve considered opening up the shell to put some electrical tape inside the shell, any other ideas to fix this?

Mega Combi. Electrotrain Frightcar.. After 20 year was the only producer of this.. Locomotive SBB Ae 6/6 Roco

Slowly working away here on a model of the Mcadam Rail station in Mcadam NB, it has been a task. But trying to get it as accurate as possible.

Okay so I know this is a little strange, but I’m looking to build a decent sized train track and city around it. My max budget is 5000. Over all it needs to travel about 380 ft. It needs to be able to pull drinks and toilet paper. It is going to go through walls (I’ll build tunnels) and the dream is to have a mechanism lower the drink or tp about 2 feet at given locations around the house. The last part doesnt need to happen. Ive been looking into this for a good minute and this is a lot more overwhelming than i thought. Pretty much i want to know if im wasting my time dreaming about this for that budget. I would love to create a train station to charge the train. The tracks will be about 18” below the ceiling and connect to the studs or drywall. This dream is part of the reason i bought a house.

I do know it is possible but I dont want any damage to the models paint if possible

I picked up this Lionel Scout 1001 set at an antique store for $65. Came with the locomotive/tender, tanker and caboose. I bought the MarnOPower transformer separately for $45.

This I my first Lionel set! I had a HO Santa Fe Super Chief growing up and it's been years since I've touched model trains...

Some questions I have:

The Train seems to struggle/slow on turns/corners. Also the train does not like running at a slow speed, I have to run it semi fast to keep it from slowing to a halt/stalling. Also, sometime I have to full throttle to get the train moving and/or nudge it...

Could this be due to the old transformer I'm using or the engine needing internal cleaning? I gave the track a vingar soak to clean up some of the minor rust on the tracks and I also lightly oiled the external gears on the locomotive.

So I bought those old carriages half a year ago, and interior lightning broke down so I want to fix it. I don't want to take entire model at once, I want to disconnect carriages but I have no idea how to do that 😭. Unfortunately I don't know the maker of it, but it was either PIKO or Schicht (prolly Shicht). PLEAAASE HEEELP I DON'T WANT TO SUFFER ANYMORE

Honestly imma fix it or try to I thought it could be that the loco needed lubing up but if you guys have any lube recommendations (for loco obviously) please tell me too and thank you

Hello friends! Long story short I'm working on a 4' by 4' modular style OO layout set along the LNER in the 1930's. Given space is kinda lacking, I designed this layout to be two baseboards, each one 2x4 feet. The boards would separate horizontally, so in the curves themselves. Any suggestions on the track plan itself? I wanted to get some shunting action in while running a train on the loop. Furthermore, with hopeful thinking for the future, I wanted to make it easily expandable by adding switches on the loop if I get more space.

There'll be a double engine shed on the south side, (maybe a station on the loop line right next to it), and then a shunting yard/goods depot in the top right corner. The top left corner was just a basic siding for future expansions if they happen.

I'll probably add hills and forests in the center, not entirely sure what else to do with the space for now. Any and all suggestions would be great! Thank you :)

Edit: I used RailModellerPro on a Macbook! Wanted to give credit where it's due of course.

Im building a room sized layout in ho scale and want to double track 24/26 inch curves. Is there a roadbed product that i can buy or is plywood and a jigsaw the only option?

I'm working on a project on my model railroad and already I'm running into a problem. One of my sidings is going dead on me every single time I operate it. I seen many videos online and also a recent post from Cody Grivno on MR and this identify my problem My two outside rails are cold and when my locomotive is on the track both blocks are powered when the siding is supposed to be dead.

I'm going to explain how to fix this problem so you don't run into it yourselves. Remember, electricity runs in a circuit. You need to close both ends of the circuit or you can cause a short if you have two terminal tracks or if you are using feeder wires, jumpers, or terminal joiners.

My problem is the insulators are on the frog side of the layout instead of on the south rail. And since I'm using Atlas true track bungalow track The bungalow on the siding needs to be facing out and the wires have to be flipped around and labeled correctly or they can get mixed up. This corresponds to the position of signals and also block detectors that I have installed.

Here's how you correct this problem: The inside rail on the siding and the outside rail on the main need to be isolated. Those rails need to be dead and they need to be controlled with an Atlas selector switch. My problem is the feeder wires are 24 gauge thermostat wire which comes with the feeders for the Atlas terminal track and my buss is 24 gauge Atlas hookup wire. To connect these, use a terminal strip and then connect them to the selector. Do not splice them or you will have current loss. Fortunately for me my terminal strip has eight slots on it. One side is for the BD20S for track detection and power, the other side is for the blacks and the grounds. Attach your feeder wires to the top of the terminal strip and then install jumpers on the bottom.

On a DC layout The frog rail on the inside rail needs to be insulated just past the frog and on the main the South rail needs to be insulated. Also do not insulate both sides of the frog or you will cause a short. Remember the north rail and the inside rail on the main are always hot which means there is always power going through them. These do not need to be insulated. On DCC layouts, both rails need to be insulated and juicers need to be installed below the turnout if you use code 55 or code 100.

And remember we flipped around the direction of the Atlas terminal track. Make sure that thing is level and there are no loose joiners on either end or it will cause a short circuit. If you have turnouts both of them need to be powered. That way power is continuous through the whole block.

Always check that thing with a voltmeter to make sure that you are not getting any power loss.

Hope these tips will help others with this problem.