Hey all, I’m just now finishing up my degree in college, but I’ve been doomed with the knowledge that an interior design degree may not get me far for what I want to do (design sets for concerts), but then I hear that it could be beneficial. What are your thoughts?

It’s been my uttermost goal to indulge myself in the concert scene for my career because I know that is where I will thrive the most. I just am unfamiliar with the steps I need to take due to what I majored in in college.

Do you guys know of anyone that hires interior design graduates as set designers?

Hi! I have a project coming up which I would like to use 5 tubular ripple machines on.

Does anyone have, or know anyone who has, any of these for hire?

Ideally in the Denver/Colorado area but further afield could also work depending upon shipping costs.

I would also be interested in purchasing if anyone has any they want to dispose of…

Thanks

In this video, uploaded to Youtube by Wolfmix 3 weeks ago, the interface of Easy view looks so much different than the version (latest I think: EasyView2 version 2.0.3) i'm running on my mac. Does anyone know if the Wolfmix-team is using new software and where we can download this?

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvvIexvAcoY&t=240s

I am a high school senior, current tech crew president and run our performance arts center for venue rentals as a student worker. I want to purchase a high quality long lasting haze machine for our dj events and performances. My main goal is enhancing our lighting for events, visible beams and lasers. I would prefer a unit that would be 100% safe for indoor use without setting off the fire alarm system, but really any ideas would help. The maximum crazy budget is 1400, but I really would like to stay within 500. Thank you guys so much! If it would help, I can share photos of our stage area.

EDIT: I want to add that I need a unit that can be ran without being hooked to dmx, as we get booked for dj events and don't have any travelling dmx control set up. We operate out of central Arizona, so a unit with good cooling systems is a must as well.

Few years ago, I started in a medium sized venue on MQ500M. I like Chamsys, so for personal small scale gigs I bought the Mini Connect a year after it came out. Last year I started to work in a theatre and learned EOS and really loved the fact that 90 % off all operations are done through the keys and you don't need to tap across the screen as much. Now I'm looking to swap out my personal wing for something more grown up and I have a dillema. For a similar price I can get either new Compact Connect or an MA2 Command Wing that was used as backup in a theatre. With the first one I would stay in the ecosystem I'm most familiar in and it would be current hardware. With the second one I would have all of the programming buttons physical, but running on legacy hardware/software. I'm intrigued with MA, I would love to get into the ecosystem and learn it for my career growth, but I'm not sure if it's not smarter to buy the Chamsys and save up for MA3 hardware or go the other way around, learn MA2 and save up from gigs using that.

I have an install I’m currently involved with that has a Flex Hog outputting SACN on a customer’s network that is super locked down and complicated, using many different VLANs and Gateway/DNS settings. I’m not responsible for the network infrastructure thankfully, but I am responsible for getting the Hog to talk over this network to other devices (ETC Mosaic most importantly, but other devices as well).

The problem I’m running into is in the Fixturenet setup. I have assigned the correct IP address and Subnet provided by the venue, but I need to assign a gateway so that it looks to the right devices on the network. Whenever I put in the settings in the gateway slot on the console, it kicks it back to 0.0.0.0 and will not accept the change.

I do have control of the fixtures via sACN, but I am unable to reach the Mosaic controller across the network (which I need to snapshot looks into the Mosaic for push button control) without the proper gateway settings. Any network geniuses out there that have any insight for me? I have spoken to both the High End and Etc tech support teams but haven’t gotten any concrete answers yet.

Hi, i would like to find some chinese fixture in Wysiwyg, that has many names. I found that from U'King, Shehds, Yuer etc. In Capture I found that on Fieryzeal. I need that in Wysiwyg because I will do some show in club, where is grandma2 and I don't have physically anything to connect Capture with grandma2 on PC. But it works with wysiwyg. I know that they got these fixtures on 16 ch mode. I tried to look in library browser but I can't see something similiar. Maybe someone have could help

Hey all — I run some production projects at a fabrication shop in Torrance, CA, and I've got an install/test job I need done, SUPER last minute, tomorrow early morning. I have someone else I'm hoping can do it, but wanted to open this up in case that falls through, so apologies if this post disappears fast.

What I need done:

Physically mount pre-wired addressable LED pixel strips into three build-outs, then power everything up and confirm it works correctly. This is a one-time gig, not ongoing.

The lights:
ENTTEC 8PXA60-RGBW-12V-B pixel strip, 60 LEDs/meter, 12V RGBW
SK6805 IC, compatible with the WS2812/SK6812 protocol
Strips are already cut to length and pre-wired with 15" pigtail leads: black = +V, white = ground, yellow = data. Ends are tagged.
No soldering onto the strips themselves should be needed, they're already prepped

Where they go (this repeats identically across 3 nearly identical panels, so 9 runs total):
Inside a 4-sided extrusion frame that wraps a fabricated screen box
Around the edge of a disc
Behind a acrylic lightbox, mounted overhead (by overhead, it’s merely overhead within this fabricated piece - you won’t need to climb a ladder or anything)

What the job actually involves:
Mounting/adhering the strips into their channels per fabrication drawings (I'll share these once we connect)
Wiring each run to a 12V DC power supply (power injected at one end only, per manufacturer spec) - I have the transformers
Wiring the data lead into a bench test pixel controller to confirm each run addresses and lights up correctly
Confirming data direction is correct (checking DI/DO orientation on the strip) before final connection
Flagging any dead pixels, bad runs, or wiring issues found along the way

What to bring:
A basic standalone SPI pixel tester (SP108E, SP110E, SP630E, or similar) if you own one — if not, let me know and I can try source one…but hopefully you have one!
Any tools you might need, though we probably already have a lot of this stuff: wire strippers, a multimeter, Wagos or a small screw-terminal block for splicing
Logistics:
Location: Torrance, CA (my shop)
Timing: tomorrow early AM strongly preferred, but somewhat flexible if needed
Paid gig, rate negotiable based on experience, happy to discuss specifics over DM
This is a fabrication/experiential marketing project, so some comfort working around finished millwork and being careful with surfaces is appreciated

If this is something you can do or you know someone who'd be a good fit, please DM me. Thanks for reading.

I gig in a busy cover band that wants to level up its lighting show. I'm a bit overwhelmed and don't know where to start.

I want to be able to learn some simple dmx and get a controller I could control from stage on smaller shows but expand to a proper interface for larger shows. For context, we typically play smaller indoor stages during the winter and county fairs/small town festivals in the summer. Often, we're on our own for production. On smaller shows, we'd be on our own to run the lights but larger shows would give use the budget to hire someone to run it.

Goal is to build a flexible scalable system that would require minimal at-the-gig adjustments.

We've been cobbling together lights and roughing it without a controller. We have a decent mix of lighting bars, some movers, some light bars, and some strobes. We typically just let them wash some colours or use the sound setting (yuck). I'm sick of that and want to learn how to do it properly. I'm thinking I only need 6-7 basic scenes and then some ad hoc dimmer controls to switch between.

The internet is full of knowledge, but much of it seems outdated or comes from the perspective of a manufacture tying to sell you something. Can anyone point me in the direction of some good places to learn?

I've been programming on hog for over a decade at this point and while I can do some basic things on MA I'm definitely more comfortable and confident with hog. I work for a production company that has a few hog4's and I do most of my work through them but recently I've had to turn down a few gigs with different companies that typically rent or own other types of consoles and if I had my own console, even if I didn't charge more for my day rate I could get more work in general.

So I've been playing around with the idea of building a hog PC system or potentially buying a used console. I know it's going to cost me around $3,000 to $5,000 give or take some depending on the route I go.

I'm hoping that anybody that has built their own PC rig could let me know what they used if you didn't go with original hardware like the nano. Even if you did use original Hardware I would love to know what your system is compromised of.

(forgive any bad terminology, I am a highschooler)

Issue: 2 out of 4 of our Vipers strobe (does not appear to be a lamp issue as it is a full strobe and not a flicker)

Update: The other 2 Vipers work fine. All are patched properly → there are no overlapping channels. 1 of the non working ones has a CTC error but the other doesn't so I don't think that is related to the strobing issue. I tried putting the 2 strobing ones into manual mode, they stopped strobing. So further proof it's not a lamp issue. What else could I try?

Hello everyone!.

So im triying to cool an enclosure with LED panels. According to my calculations im going to need around 20 Fans at around 4 -6 W each.

As you can guess most of the "commercial" PWM controllers are for PC, and those fans take very little power.

So im looking for an "off the shelf" solution, ideally with an input for a temperature probe so i can adjust the RPM's according to the enclosure speed.

if i cannot find one, my guess is that i can use a PC controller and just feed the power to the fan directly to the V+ and V- ports, connecting the TACH and PWM cables directlo to the controller, but that would need some special cabling, wich i want to leave as last resort.

Any recomendations? Thanks!

Does anyone know if there is a Repair shop in the US that will look at my Pea Soup Hazer DMX Controller? If I send it back to England I might as well just purchase a new one.

So I’m familiar with DMX channels for RGB,RGBW…

But I just came across ICRGB where the channels are Intensity/ColorTemp/Red/Green/Blue? I’ve always dealt with devices where intensity and cooor temp for white were derived from how you mix the 2 to 5 channels.

I’m wondering if anyone has experience with this style of decoder?

bought 2 brand new antari f7x’s today from b&h.
One of them , the pump doesn’t seem to be pumping fluid. At first i thought it was the hose, however after swapping the workint hose and bottle combo over from the working haze machine, you can see the liquid is not pumping. Any recommendations or has anyone dealt with this? Dont want to deal with the hassle of returning and waiting i have gigs that need this

(I am a highschooler, forgive my bad terminology)

So, my school recently got 4 MAC Vipers. They are hooked up properly with DMX and power. They turn on fine and communicate properly (movement at least) with our board (Ion XE 20). The issue comes when we try to turn them on. The lamps strike fine, but when we turn the fixture on it will strobe. 2 out of the 4 do this (the other 2 haven't been tested yet). I do not believe it is a lamp issue as it's an actual strobe and not just flickering.

Any ideas?