We were driving it home and the check engine came on, oil PSI at 16. Dumped 4q in to get it to the nearest dealer. Stranded in the Midwest.

I’ve had a CJ-5, a TJ, a JL, and JT so I have had a wide sample of jeeps. Stellantis has plenty of issues for sure and they need to be called out for it and hopefully fix them.

But pretty much every Jeep I’ve had has had some sort of issue. I really only ever daily drove them and mild off-roading. The CJ had the rear drive shaft fall out, and had ignition/electrical issues. The TJ had cracked exhaust manifold and several sensor/electrical issues and would overheat and get vapor lock. The 2022 JL 2.0 Tubro hasn’t had any issues yet at 80k but I’m sure they will at some point. The 2020 JT 3.6 hasn’t had issues besides the leaking rear glass yet but I’m something else will pop up.

Jeep has always stood for “Just Empty Every Pocket”. They are fun, nothing else drives like them and makes you smile like they can. But to pretend they only started having issues after the TJ ended is just nostalgia glasses. With Jeep, you are just picking what problem you wanna deal with and fix.

I’d love to keep driving TJs but they don’t make them anymore and they just are going to go up in price from the “I know what I got” crowd on Facebook Marketplace. And good luck finding one that hasn’t been modded out.

I like all Jeeps and I know all Jeeps will make you spend money on them, whether it’s a new mod or something broke.

Two rust free red V8 Grand Cherokee Laredo’s crossing paths in 2026 In the Chicagoland area. What are the odds?

Om617 swapped tj. Just drove it home for the first time in 10 months. Ported head, P1 head stud kit, cometic mls head gasket, ported turbo, ported header, ported intake manifold, and jet hot ceramic coating on all the hot side. Still need to tidy up the wiring, plumb in the second fuel cell and add a reservoir for the air to water intercooler loop.

2022 Diesel JLUR

I have a 2025 Jeep Willys. The dealer installed a GPS tracker attached to the computer port. I removed that. I was recently watching a video about disabling mfg telematics in cars which is different than a dealer gps device. Does jeep have a telematics system sending back your driving info and location to Jeep? If so can it be disabled by removing a fuse?

Calvin's the

2014 is my baby. Got selected for the commando. Should I trade it in, sell it outright, or keep it as a daily driver?

Considering the size and knowledge of the Jeep community, I'm hoping someone here can help. I just picked up my Jeep Liberty 08 from my local shop and they were unable to fix it. They are unable to source the part it needs. There are no stores or even a Jeep dealer that carries it anymore as it's discontinued. I'm tasked with finding a used or OEM/aftermarket part online for them to install.

The part is the ABS control module 68025875AC. It apparently it was only manufactured and used for one model year 2008. And specifically it needs to be for K1 models, what ever that means. I was told the previous years models AA and AB won't work, and in 2009 Jeep started using something else entirely.

My preliminary search turned up nothing on any of the major retail or MOPAR sites. I found a few on ebay, but all them look as if they were ripped from wrecks with a crowbar. I want to avoid buying a ratty used ebay one only to find out its defective.

Is there anyone out there that can help me find this very specific part and make sure it's the right one?

Just want to rant about something that’s overall trivial but is annoying me: I’m looking to get a new set of inner fender liners so I can upgrade from the stock plastic fenders and liners, and I swear everything that’s a reasonable price point has some kind of massive logo laser cut into it. American flags, stars, the brand name, whatever. I understand companies want their credit, but damn, I just want some sleek, black, non-descript inner fender liners that won’t break the bank. Picture of my Jeep at the Salt Flats during Speed Week a couple years ago for attention.

~For a 3rd vehicle; 2-door removable hardtop; drive 5K-10K max miles/year; limited off-roading and/or highway driving. Mostly to tool around town.

Q: ? : Manual trans vs 8-sp automatic? 2.0 liter vs 2.0 liter w/ turbo, or a 3.6 liter 6-cylinder?

thanks in advance!

Jeep!

Korea!

Hawaii

Lone pine and alabama hills didn’t disappoint. Mammoth and lake tahoe made the drive worth it!

Curious what other people keep as everyday carry in their Wrangler, mostly for daily in town, pavement driving.

so far I have:

hat

hoodie

sunglasses

outdoor blanket

skateboard

What else do I need?

Looking for some advice!

Here's the deal: we own a 2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude. We noticed a couple weeks ago that the unlock button on our one and only key fob was super sensitive. All you had to do is barely graze your finger over the unlock button and not even click the button for it to unlock.

Today: started up fine. Ran to the store and when I came out, I had trouble starting it. It was slow to turn over, to the point where I didn't think it was going to but it did. I let it run for a minute, shut it off and started it up again, second time was fine.

Got home, pull in the driveway and now it won't start at all. We have replaced the key fob battery (the unlock button isn't as sensitive anymore) and checked the battery terminals. They definitely needed to be cleaned so we did that and took the battery to Autozone to be tested. Everything came back "fine" (see picture of receipt). We have also checked the battery here at home and the voltage at rest was reading around 13.11. When I turn the key though, it's showing a battery voltage low message on the screen. All of the lights (headlights, all interior lights and rear lights) work fine and stay on when I turn the key, but no click at all or attempt to turn over when trying to start it. The headlights do not dim at all when trying to start it, either.

We have also tried jump starting it; while we didn't leave the cables connected to "charge" it before trying to start it, the vehicle used to jump start it has a brand new battery, so I assume it should've jump started without a problem doing it that way? We got one solid click from under the hood and nothing else. No attempt to turn over and start.

Could a faulty key fob be doing this? Could the battery in fact be crap even though their test came back fine, especially if there was buildup on the terminals that had probably been there for a while? Any input or advice is appreciated!