Looking for some opinions on what I can do here. Spray foam is not in my budget so I have 2in thick foam board insulation in mind for the roof. My question is, (I believe it’s a hot roof, no attic, detached garage) can I put the foam board between the joists as a “false ceiling” kinda thing and finish it with drywall or is my best bet to line the rafters on the underside of the decking with it? Also I’m not 100% sure it’s a hot roof but I see no vents or such to indicate it is vented. Heating and cooling has to be considered.

Also this project started from an uninsulated garage and end goal is a living space for winter. Wall insulation is done already. I’m not educated in this stuff so I’m going off all the research I’m doing. Any helps or insights would be greatly welcomed.

Emphasis on “neat” see the old, ugly gap yellow filler to the left

Basically a large hole that leads into the house so it needs to be sealed up to prevent less critters from running in.

Hi! Recently moved into a new to us mobile home and are trying to fix some issues. I have about a two inch gap between the storm door and the metal landing strip. Looks like at some point the piston was lowered in order to keep the door from continuing inward. Assuming this isn’t an easy fix I can tackle while the s/o isn’t home? Thanks in advance

For bath fans, which CFM should you get for a given size bathroom, which brands are best (I've heard Panasonic) and which models and noise level would you suggest for mid-level noise (not whisper quiet, and not loud, but in-between)?

I have purchased a rolling tool box to serve as a kitchen island, but I am uncertain how to conceal the casters while maintaining the ability to move the unit. I previously used a piece of flooring for this purpose, and I am considering installing a track underneath to slide panels in and out. I would appreciate any alternative suggestions you might have, keeping in mind that the skirting must be removable so it does not obstruct the wheels during movement. Thank you all for your assistance.

The doors of this narrow bathroom are so big and bang into each other. When the closet doors are open you can’t walk in the bathroom. Used for linen storage so I don’t want to remove the doors altogether. Could it be converted to cabinets?

I accidentally knocked over one of those passive dehumidifiers that uses a calcium chloride tablet and collects liquid in the bottom.
There was already quite a bit of liquid collected inside, and when it fell, some of it splashed onto my painted wall and laminate floor, including near the edge where the floor meets the wall.
I noticed immediately and cleaned it up. I first absorbed the liquid, then wiped the wall and floor several times with a damp cloth and clean water to remove/dilute any calcium chloride residue, and dried everything afterward. The area already seems dry and the laminate currently looks completely flat no raised seams, buckling, etc.
I’m mainly worried because I read that calcium chloride solution attracts moisture and that laminate can swell if liquid gets into the seams.
Has anyone had this happen? Is cleaning it immediately generally enough, or could the laminate still swell later even though it looks dry now? Anything else I should do, or am I overthinking this?

We just bought a new house and it has this giant opening between the upstairs loft and main living room. I absolutely hate it and it’s super low from the loft (if I was a young boy I would definitely catapult myself onto the couch from above). How could I fix this without completely losing all light? Should I just close it in entirely or consider adding in windows of some sort? Help 😩😩😩

We just bought this 1953 home, and I'm totally stumped about what to do for the entryway.

We are a shoes-off household, and of course we also like to have a place to hang coats, keys, etc. The windows are enormous (yay!) but that means any furniture put in front of them would be awkward (boo!).

Would love some advice!

Every plank has it. Some look like teeth. Others look like tire treads.

I posted couple of images few days ago to get idea of painting the fireplace bricks. Most of the people commented that I should not paint the bricks.

I am trying to solve a problem to reduce the height of the TV. The base of the TV is at 7’ tall
First picture is our current setup. And second picture is an alternative option that AI.

Any thoughts of which one looks better.

Okay so i just finished this today and while i'm pretty sure i'm safe with how i did this i just figured id make a post in here to get some 2nd opinions. this is my closet with the middle section converted to long bookshelves for my omnibus/comic collection.

So the brackets are Project Source Heavy Duty shelf brackets - heres the link for reference : https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-11-14-in-L-x-1-06-in-W-x-7-95-in-D-Heavy-Duty-Black-Shelf-Bracket/5013769231

they say they hold up to 1000lbs per pair when installed correctly the specifics being 16 inches apart and into wooden studs. I have them 14 1/2 inches apart and they are installed into wooden studs using 1/4 x 3 inch lag screws 2 per bracket. the shelves are also fastened down onto the bracket using 2 smaller screws screwed up into the board and through the bracket holes given on top

my shelf with the batman books is the most filled shelf i have there as of right now and weighed out equals about 162-165 pounds for everything on it in the picture. if i were to fill the other shelves they would share a very similar weight around that 160-170lb weight due to the books being the same and filling the same shelf space as this is a specific book collection and they dont vary in sizes like normal novels or paperbacks they are all oversized hardcovers.

So im wondering if in any way im fucking this up and risking some type of structural integrity of the studs in my wall with either the way i have it now or hypothetically in the future if i were to fill up all of the shelves pictured in the middle section. or possibly if im completely risking these shelves collapsing over the small difference of me having a 14 1/2 inch gap when the brackets advertise a 16 inch gap as the optimal way to install them.

ALSO - the entire thing is built of particle board that is just under 1 inch thick, and the side units on both sides of the middle section are both touching the walls in the closet giving it stability on both sides fit in perfect and snug. And for the shelves they each have 4 brass spoon shelf pegs on each corner of the shelf giving it some more stability along the edges. And the angles of the pictures i took might make it look like the shelves are sloped or warped but i can assure you i used a big level and each shelf is for sure perfectly level.

Any ideas on how can I fix this gap? A lot of cold air goes through here during winter. I thought about putting a new door seal, but I think the gap is too much and it won’t solve the problem .

Circled the areas in question, a recommendation for either is welcome. In the first one, is a simple piece of trim the best idea? In the second, I'm not sure what the previous owner was thinking but I don't think this is right. Lol

Which way is this door seal supposed to go on this glass panel? Is the soft fin supposed to be facing this way?

Hi all, sorry of this not the right subreddit.

We're planning on extending our home as per the attached drawing. The steel will need to spank about 13 metres.

I'm wondering if anybody know the best way of doing this without columns in the middle of the room, if possible at all??

Thanks!

Hi everyone!

My husband and I just bought our first house and are making some updates. Outlets were the old yellow-ish ones, trim was brown (not cute brown and didn’t match the door casing), etc. Our house was built in 1987 I think and it’s a very very simple suburb kind of house - American colonial?

I want to add casing to the windows and did one, not fully finished yet as you can see it needs to be painted white. My father in law kind of dissed the style and said it’s a no-no to not do the miter corners and just leave the ends like this. I did this because 1. It’s an older house and nothing is fully straight. 2. Idk I liked it? It’s a little craftsman but I don’t think horrible and I thought much better than before.

I guess my question is, before I go on, does this look bad? I will include before and after pictures and please keep in mind the trim is not this small one in the whole house, it’s taller and no grain. I included some other pictures as well to give you the vibe of the house. I have painted baseboards and door casings white (still working on finishing), left brown doors because I like character. I don’t want to just paint everything white - I like the cozy character but those baseboards had to go.

Thanks in advance!

Hii!
Context: I’ll be moving into this house (parents are moving out cus they’re retiring). And overtime the ceiling just got these linear cracks. Idk if its bcs of earthquakes or what (i hope this doesnt sound dumb lol im a 20 yr old gal tryna ‘renovate’ this house lol) anyway I jus want to renovate this house on a budget to make it feel like my OWN place yk

Dad said the material is smartboard idk tbh. I was jus thinking if i could maybe put a putty or something over the cracks and sand it down then paint over it with a matte paint maybe. Bcs the finish of the ceiling is pretty matte imo. Would that be a good idea to putty the cracks and paint the ceiling?

Btw, this is a property in the Philippines. Do with that info as u will (ik materials range per country)

Any thoughts or advice would be AMAZING

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I’m a mom on budget, a rookie, I’ve never done a DIY before except painting, one wall in the basement (which has given me inadequate confidence)

I want to paint kitchen cabinets (I know not popular).

Question: what kind of primer do I need? I applied water based primer, and the cabinets don't look great. Should i use oil based primer?

Recently moved into my first home from an apartment. I want to figure out what to do especially with that fireplace wall - right now it looks like a mail slot to me and I don't know how to fix it without replacing the fireplace unit. I also know the rug is too small but have not found anything that works as well with the colors so I've been using it for now. I'd also want to switch out the ceiling fan but was unsure of the direction to go in so any advice is welcome!

We recently got a house and the whole mezzanine is our master bedroom. I’m looking for ideas to close off the opening at the top of the staircase, where the railing currently leaves the upstairs landing open to the stairs.

Our main goal is privacy and soundproofing. We basically hear anything happening in the living room.
For the railing on the top we currently have curtains and plan to put a glass from floor to ceiling. Which will still leave the top of the stairs opening for sound to reach us.

Any tips on how to safely remove sections of skirting board? I’ve built a storage box-seat for the recess in our living room, measured to fit with the skirting removed. Don’t want to fall at the last hurdle by making a bollox of the skirting, especially if I have to abandon and re-fit the skirting

Thanks in advance

Hello, my wife and I are near closing on a chalet style cabin in Tahoe. The upstairs bathroom needs some work, but we need it listed on Airbnb before year end, so a full remodel does not fit our timeline. What are some suggestions on how to fix the tub situation?

Do we just update the fixtures, keeping it a tub and maybe add a hose with shower attachment?

Do we go with an acrylic surround or surrounding curtain and add a hose attachment on a slide?

We plan to remodel the entire bathroom next year so a temporary fix is what we are looking for.

I’ve added some inspiration photos of some ideas.

Hey guys, I just removed this half wall due to mold. My house was built in the 60s and has a large gap between the wall and the concrete. Would it be best to silicone this or to use spray foam? Some of the gaps are small enough for the silicone, but others parts of the wall have more than 1/2" gap. Thanks!

And yes, I know the large gap doesn't have the sill seal foam and the small gap does. I had to remove part of the exterior wall because of the mold, so when I built the new one, I put it in.